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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Looking for Joe Pace
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
2. Re: DeLorean Lawyer News Story
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Front lower control arm replacement
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: running rich?? (Rich #5335's post)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Roof Light Disassembly
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Front side marker lights not working
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
8. 2003 Events
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
9. Martin G's Engine Performance Problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. TOBY-TAB's
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Tellus Carriers
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Wisconsin DeLorean Owners
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Delorean in new upcoming feature film
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: running rich??
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Front side marker lights not working
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:21:03 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Looking for Joe Pace
If anyone knows Joe Pace can you send me privately his e-mail address or
phone number,
He had a BTTF car that I am looking for the current owner.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:27:40 -0500
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Lawyer News Story
To my knowledge, Colin Chapman died in December of 1982 and I wasn't aware
that there was any controversy surrounding his death. As far as I know, the
whole situation with the money (if you are meaning the $17 million that it
took awhile for the British auditors to track down) had nothing to do with
Colin Chapman's death. The money in question was finally tracked down in the
late 1980's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean Lawyer News Story
> Dear Mike
>
> Thanks for clarifying policy on what is appropriate to post to the DML. I
> am sure there is a lot of "off-topic" conspiracy therorys out there but I
am
> also sure there is a lot of facts in this topic area that could be shared
> with the DeLorean community that might not be available from any other
> source. We all have a vested interest in knowing the facts as they have
> developed over the years if for no other reason so we do not continue to
> spread misinformation ourselves. We are often asked what happened, and I
> for one would love to be "brought up to date". Also (off topic?) what, if
> anything, has developed with regards to Colin Chapman's disappearance and
> did the DeLorean money play a part in it? Last I heard there was an audit
> being done on the subject. I love the car and to me this is an important
> part of the car.
>
> Don Ekhoff
> Vin 6543 +
[moderator snip]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:36:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure
Hey everyone,
Having a bit of trouble with my D's engine
performance. She runs really ragged, vibrates back
and forth when idling (sounds more like a Harley than
usual). My oil pressure meter reads half way until I
get the RPM's up past 2500. The oil pressure gauge
shoots back up to the top and the car is fine then.
Any ideas of what this could be?
Thanks.
-Sean Mulligan
vin #10054.
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 21:39:00 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm replacement
Knut - What a great post ... you da man! I did want to clarify that
it is technically possible to correct caster errors if they are
sufficient to cause handling problems. If the caster differs more
than 1/2 degree from one side to the other, you will notice that the
car is directionally "twitchy" - a lane change can happen by just
thinking about it. Winged1 had an error that was right at 1/2 degree,
and I considered the car to be "quick into a turn" - a matter of
perspective, I suppose. You can change caster by adding shim washers
between the rubber donut bushings and the lower control arm. Add
shims on one side of the LCA interface, and it will shift the caster
value. Since your caster values are fairly close, you're good to go.
Thanks for giving us the scoop on the SS lower control arms, and also
the great explanation of the various suspension parameters. If you
happen to have the old LCA that broke, I wouldn't mind getting ahold
of it, and having a peek at the fracture surfaces. We might learn
something more about the failure. Please advise if that would be of
interest to you.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>
wrote:
> As most folks are aware, only the TOE is adjustable when performing
> an alignment and all the other parameters are fixed by the geometry
> of the setup. In case some folks are not aware of the exact meaning
> of the three common alignment parameters, here is a brief tutorial
> (and my commentary on my specific values):
> CASTER: This refers to whether the axis about which the wheels pivot
> for steering is vertical (i.e. perpendicular to the road surface).
> The caster is affected by any modification in the ride height of the
> front of the car, and if you lower your front a little the caster
> will also change since the car will not be parallel to the ground
> any longer. I don't have the alignment report from my previous
> alignment, so I cann't tell if the caster has changed, but the
> caster measurement is reasonable in light of the DeLorean's overall
> configuration (larger wheels in the back) and the fact that my front
> is slightly lowered.
>
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:34:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: running rich?? (Rich #5335's post)
Three screws you speak of are manual idle circuit, used by Volvo and
myself. Have summarized procedure to set them in place of DMC
automatic idle if you'd like a copy (brobertson(AT)carolina.net). Is
not permanent -- you can switch back and forth between automatic and
manual very easily -- and IMHO is a useful technique all DeLorean
owners should know (for example to diagnose idle speed motor or ECU).
In your case something would need to be done to replace broken hex
heads: if you don't want to buy new screws could drill and tap #8's or
#10's into what's left so you at least have something to grip.
Screw closest to air sensor plate let's air into manual circuit.
Middle screw balances passenger side of engine. Screw closest to U
pipes balances driver side.
Fuel mixture screw access hole is located between air sensor plate and
fuel distributor. Screw itself is inside upper air assembly, attached
to teeter totter between sensor plate and distributor piston. If your
fuel mixture used to be correct, don't worry about this screw. VERY
unlikely it turned itself -- problem is probably elsewhere, such as
warm up/control pressure regulator.
What exactly are your symptoms? Pull a couple of spark plugs -- rich
mixture burns dirty, leaving DRY black residue on plug (pulling spark
plugs very important diagnostic technique. Is only way to tell what's
going on inside combustion chambers). Of couse an improper spark also
burns dirty: make sure car is timed correctly and ignition components
are top condition. Check your spark advance cut off solenoid -- if
it's malfunctioning car will be WAY too advanced when tuned at idle.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Gents,
>
> I'm also running very rich so I've been following this conversation
> intently.
>
> First question: The three brass set screws on the intake near
> the "W" pipe. Two are for the cylinder banks and are supposed to be
> fully shut. That much I know. Is the 3rd one the mixture screw? Are
> all 3 supposed to be fully shut? If not, how can I best determine the
> proper position of that 3rd mystery screw? I don't have sophisticated
> test equipment.
>
> Second question: The yahoo owner before me, cranked them down so
> tightly, that when I checked them, the heads snapped off all 3 of
> them with almost no effort. I presume that an easy-out or similar
> extraction tool will remove them....right guys??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
> #5335
>
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 00:43:36 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof Light Disassembly
On Wed, 9 Apr 2003 22:10:34 -0500, "Gary Weaver II" wrote:
> Strange Question...
> Just HOW do you take the three position interior lamp apart?
You have to pry it out of the headliner carefully;
the black platic frame is held into the material
by a couple of tabs on both short sides.
In my experience you can best start at one end,
to make sure I didn't damage anything I used a
spoon to lever it out. Put it under the brim of the light
and wiggle it a bit, on mine it fell out after that.
Since then I've redcovered my headliners and now it's held
in by the foam too, so it stays in place WAY better, yet
I can now take it out without any tools...
Good Luck,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
------------------------------
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 00:51:20 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front side marker lights not working
On Thu, 10 Apr 2003 01:07:01 -0000, "dmcorlando2003" wrote:
> I just replaced my headlight switch (LMS) and it works,
> however the amber marker lights on the fenders don't work now
> (they worked before) either with or without the headlights on.
Do the lights in the bumper work? If so I'd check the bulbs first.
If not I'd see if any power got to the sockets. Either way you
have to remove the lights from the fender.
The wires for the lights in the bumper and those on the fender
share a connection in the big connector near the windshield
washerbottle in the front-left corner of the car, if the taillights,
dashlights and rear side markers work, but the front lights don't
you know the LMS is OK.
If none of the front-lights work, check for power at the sockets
first, if there's none there check the plug (can be reached by
removing the "bucket" and the washer bottle) and while you're
in there clean the contacts anyway and check if the washer pump
is still OK; mine was rusted solid, making me fail my annual test...
Good luck,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
------------------------------
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:55:15 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2003 Events
As the second issue of Gullwing Magazine is about ready for print
(this week) we have a section for 2003 events that is available for
all to use.
If your club or group has planned events, shows, etc and you would
like them to be listed please email us with the info and we will get
everything in that we can before printing starts.
Thanks
Ron
gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:55:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Martin G's Engine Performance Problem
Since I have no Lambda system, replaced O2 sensor with flanged bolt
cut flush with interior of bung. Remember wondering how badly it
restricted exhaust flow. Is surprisingly large relative to SINGLE
common exhaust pipe. What do you think intrusion is: 25% to 33%? Gave
my sensor away so I can't measure it anymore...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> It's amazing how different the exhaust sounds if you forget to screw
the
> lambda sensor in... (been there, got the T-shirt.... and have the
> embrassing moment on video!)
>
> Martin
>
> David Teitelbaum wrote:
>
> >There is no quick bolt-on thing that will improve performance much.
> >The engine package is a very engineered, balanced system. If you want
> >to change the sound of the exhaust there are some modifacations you
> >can do but don't expect much.
> >David Teitelbaum
> >vin 10757
> >
> >
> >
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 23:16:37 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TOBY-TAB's
Hello List - I wanted to check in with everybody on present or future
needs for TOBY-TAB's. As you know, the first and second batches were
completely sold out. That means that there are approximately 168 cars
(or future cars) out there with these parts. If we do the math, there
should be a relatively large number of cars (6000+) that either do
require, or will require, replacement TAB's. I have been in contact
with the original manufacturer, and they say that they are in a
position to manufacture another batch (minimum order 100 pieces)
within the next 45 - 60 days. My question to the List is very simple
- Is there sufficient demand to commission another batch using the
same protocol, and price ($66), as we used on the second batch?
Prepayment worked very well for Darryl and I because we didn't have to
come up with a boatload of cash up front to fund the purchase, and all
who paid got their TAB's in a relatively timely fashion. I would like
to get a feel for the current demand, so that I can give the company
an idea of whether it will happen or not. Please advise offlist to
myself at tobyp(at)katewwdb.com, or Darryl at darryl(at)techline.com.
If anybody has a question about whether these bolts are worth the
price or not, I'm sure that current owners of TOBY-TAB's will attest
to the quality and importance of these parts.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 17:25:08 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Tellus Carriers
I don't know what system was used, but must have been a relation at least to
the Tellus Carriers we had here at the Corps of Engineers......it sure
worked for years and years. It had a wire imbedded in the floor and was
used down hallways and into offices etc to deliver small packages and mail
etc..... Sometimes someone rode on it but mostly it was just a container on
rubber tires that moved about and stopped at prescribed spots and times and
then took off again. It was really an impressive setup and always worked
fine.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
Walla Walla, WA
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 20:28:06 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wisconsin DeLorean Owners
I am looking for any DeLorean owners in the Milwaukee Wisconsin area or surrounding
counties that would like to possibly get together during the summer for some local car
shows, help working on their cars or just sending emails back and forth. I am located in
Hales Corners in Milwaukee county.
If you are interested please reply to me directly.
ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx
Mark
6683
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 01:54:39 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean in new upcoming feature film
Several weeks ago, I was approached by Keystone Entertainment (Little
Disney)to feature my Delorean in their new upcoming film
called "Spymate". Uptill now I kept the news hush from everybody but
I can not see any harm by publishing this information on our
wonderful site. If you are familiar with the MVP and Airbud movies,
most of these filmed on location in BC, Canada, this film will also
be shot in the Vancouver, BC area. You can visit Keystone
Entertainment by going to their site: keypics.com. Here you will find
a link to their "films in production". Nothing is mentioned about the
car yet, but the overall story-line is found on their site.
Car 10250 will be a movie-star!! Real cool!!
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:39:52 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: running rich??
Rich, If your car hasn't been tampered with a lot. Then a simple replacement
of the 02 sensor will get you back to normal. If all conditions are perfect,
then the 02 sensor is supposed to be replaced every 30,000 miles. But since
we don't live in a perfect world you have to figure on replacing it sooner.
There is lots of things that will make it run richer and or contaminate the
02 sensor quicker. To many to list or maybe I should write a book on it.
Seriously, I would replace the 02 sensor and possibility readjust the 02
adjustment to compensate for wear and you should be OK. If it still persist,
then the warm up regulator / control pressure regulator may be going out.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< Gents,
I'm also running very rich so I've been following this conversation
intently.
First question: The three brass set screws on the intake near
the "W" pipe. Two are for the cylinder banks and are supposed to be
fully shut. That much I know. Is the 3rd one the mixture screw? Are
all 3 supposed to be fully shut? If not, how can I best determine the
proper position of that 3rd mystery screw? I don't have sophisticated
test equipment.
Second question: The yahoo owner before me, cranked them down so
tightly, that when I checked them, the heads snapped off all 3 of
them with almost no effort. I presume that an easy-out or similar
extraction tool will remove them....right guys??
Thanks,
Rich
#5335
>>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 02:43:03 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front side marker lights not working
Each side of the running/park lights is on a different fused
circuit. So, if just the front amber lights do not work it is
probably the bulb or, in a lot of cases, water generally gets into
the bulb area and rust causes a loss of connection. The bulbs are
1816, 4 watt bulbs. During replacement, use some bulb grease to
protect the connection. You can get it at NAPA, etc. It is good to
use on all bulbs when you service them. Be careful to tighten the
amber housing down lightly when you put it back on. Age causes them
to break easily if the screws are tightened too much.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> I just replaced my headlight switch (LMS) and it works, however
the
> amber marker lights on the fenders don't work now (they worked
> before) either with or without the headlights on. All other
lights
> work just fine.
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