To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
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To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: fan over-ride switch
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Polyurethane bushings
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Adjustable Door Struts
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. PU bushings
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
7. Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Adjustable Door Struts
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: New VIN list and production chronology uploaded
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Polyurethane bushings
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Adjustable Door Struts
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Adjustable Door Struts
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. AW: Adjustable Door Struts
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
15. Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. DeLorean & Lagonda
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
18. Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
20. $1100 drivers side fender
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
21. RE: Polyurethane bushings
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
22. Any DeLorean owners in the Beaverton, OR area???
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Adjustable Door Struts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
25. My 2 cents Re: Thermostat Bleeder
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 04:50:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fan over-ride switch
Under the console is a junction of green wires. These feed otterstat,
dash gauges, and the "Lambda Service Interval Counter" (an imminently
useful device if I ever saw one). Run one more green wire from this
junction, through a switch, to the black/orange terminal of Relay 24
(right next to imfamous Fan Fail Module). Will then have a manual
otterstat parallel to thermal one. Have heard of people using defrost
or replacement switches in console (DMC Houston sells them) for this
very purpose. Don't worry about inline fuse -- junction after Fuse 5.
Will only be triggering relay -- milliamp load.
Note this will only correct otterstat failure, not failure of Relay
24, circuit breaker, whatever's in Fan Fail socket, etc.
Bill Robertson (the Bionic Man)
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Marvin" <marv@xxxx> wrote:
> On my last DeLorean, years ago I installed an over-ride switch to
manually turn on the fans if needed. I cannot locate any paperwork or
diagram how I connected what to where. I recall that the wires were
only in the cockpit area, non of them going directly to the fans
themselves.
> Can anyone assist? Send me a sketch?
>
> Took the car out of storage and drove it yesterday for the first
time this year. Started on the 1st turn. When they are fixed
correctly, what a great feeling!!! Temp gauge stayed between the lines
and the air works!
>
> Marv
> # 17707
> marv@xxxx
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:47:19 -0800
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Polyurethane bushings
I think I will be buying these shocks, they are Monroe...
Check em out...
http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html
Let me know what you think..
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Deichman [mailto:swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 5:30 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Polyurethane bushings
do you have a suggestion on shocks (front and rear)
steve 10005
jwit6@xxxxxx wrote:Sway Bar Bushings Front Frame: Summit Racing.
Polyurethane. ENS-9-5123G. 19mm $15.69 a pair I have these installed in
my car and they are a direct bolt up replacement. Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 01:35:52 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
Group, As I was talking to a mechanic today and he said the same version were
building is now being used as I remember on Fords or a version there of.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 09:14:00 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
My car had an intermittent problem with this also. I found it to be a
poor connection at the connector block in the front facia. you have
to remove a headlight to get to it.
Adam
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "netym89" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey,
> Here is the deal! Car 10250 is going onto the movie scene and I had
> to replace my window motor assembly this morning; 2.5 hours with no
> cuts and bandages!! A little challenging but not bad.
> The turn signal on my car just stopped working. The studio needs it
> fixed by Saturday evening. I checked Fuse#4 okay; The emergency
> flashers are working fine. Checked the schematic and this is what I
> think:
> 1. Check power to Fuse#4.
> 2. Flasher unit must be working because the Hazard light circuit
uses
> it as well.
> 3.Turn signal switch could be defective.
> 4. Check pins 5 and 6 for continuity. If not, hazard switch
defective.
>
> I need an opinion from somebody on this. What is the most common
> fault found for this symptom.
>
> PS. I like to go back tomorrow to check the car once more.
>
> Emails to: delorean@xxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 06:35:36 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Adjustable Door Struts
The thread on adjustable door struts does bring up a good question.
Would any on our vendors who watch this list be able to come up with a
door strut that is adjustable using air pressure? As we all know, door
struts don't last forever and at around $60.00 a pop for each I would
pay a bit more for a door strut that would last longer.
The Bricklin system upgrades included air powered door mechanism (Yes I
know it's a completely different operating system) It would seem logical
that having a DeLorean door strut that has a valve on it for
filling/softening would be far better than replacing and torsion bar
adjustments.
Tom
#005732
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 13:39:57 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: PU bushings
> For your purpose, you should probably do
> the galvanize first at 450 degrees F, and then do the stress relief bake
afterwards. The reason is that galvanizing can
> introduce hydrogen into the steel, which can be bad if the part is used at
high stresses. The baking operation will tend to
> drive the hydrogen out of the part. I don't know if hydrogen
embrittlement is really an issue for these parts, but you
> never can be too careful.
As far as I know, hydrogen embrittlement *should* not be an issue with mild
steel, but I will do some research on this, to be absolutely sure.
> What happened to your parts such that you need to weld them? Are you just
reinforcing them,
> or repairing them? Just curious.
Both, reparing and reinforcing. One of the lower links had a fracture at the
opening were the lower ball joint is pressed into. As it is obvious, that
the lower links are designed a little too weak, I intend to reinforce them a
little bit at the ball joint area and at the flanges.
> Also, weren't you the person that made contact with a urethane supplier
over there, and
> could get some of the suspension bushing parts made? I think that you
were going to wait to see if I was able to do
> anything here in the US. I haven't had much luck yet. Could you let me
know what is available to you in the area of
> urethane suspension bushings? Thanks. Keep in touch.
Yes, I am still in contact with the supplier "superflex". I have several
samples lying around. At the moment, we concentrate only on the bushing
"100154", which is used 10 times in the Delorean (8 for the rear suspension,
2 at the lower links of the front suspension). The samples I have will
definitely work for the rear suspension. But the front lower links are a
different thing. I am not convinced that the PU bushings can take the forces
at this special point, because they are designed differently than the
original ones. There is the danger that the bushing could slide from the
inner pipe, as the PU body is not bonded to the pipe.
As I don't want to risk any accidents, I will make a test mockup and measure
the force which is needed to press the mounted bush out of the lower link. I
will do this with an original bush (...ouch) and with the new PU ones. Then
we'll see, if they are capable. If the test results are not convincing, then
I will not give my o.k. for the use on the front suspension.
The bushes are not yet available, but they are listed on their homepage:
www.superflex.co.uk
Do you know the hardness of the original rubber bushes? Anyone? The PU
bushes are available in 70, 80 and 95. The samples I have are 95, and they
are much too hard! A simple test showed that they are at least 10 times
harder than the original ones. I don't want to increase the road noise and
the stress on the frame, so I tend to much softer bushings.
I will let you all know, as soon as they are available.
ciao,
Ralf
VIN10284
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 15:43:33 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
I think you are on the right trail. Pin 6 should have power with the
key on to aux or run and the emergency flasher off. Another test for
the turn signal switch would be to jumper the LGN wire on the
flasher to one of the turn signal wires GW or GR with the switch to
aux or on.
Pin 6 gets power through fuse 4 to pin 5 when the emergency flasher
in off and key to aux or run. Fuse 6 feeds pin 6 when the emergency
flasher is engaged. Fuse 4 has to be OK for turn signals fuse 6 for
emergency flashers.
If the jumper does not cause the turn signal to activate it
indicates the flasher switch is probably defective. If the turn
signals activate then the turn signal switch is probably defective.
I hope you figure it out in time.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "netym89" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey,
> Here is the deal! Car 10250 is going onto the movie scene and I
had
> to replace my window motor assembly this morning; 2.5 hours with
no
> cuts and bandages!! A little challenging but not bad.
> The turn signal on my car just stopped working. The studio needs
it
> fixed by Saturday evening. I checked Fuse#4 okay; The emergency
> flashers are working fine. Checked the schematic and this is what
I
> think:
> 1. Check power to Fuse#4.
> 2. Flasher unit must be working because the Hazard light circuit
uses
> it as well.
> 3.Turn signal switch could be defective.
> 4. Check pins 5 and 6 for continuity. If not, hazard switch
defective.
>
> I need an opinion from somebody on this. What is the most common
> fault found for this symptom.
>
> PS. I like to go back tomorrow to check the car once more.
>
> Emails to: delorean@xxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 09:22:31 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Door Struts
If "adjustable" door struts are truly feasable, then the real project here would be to
have self-closing doors. The car would have a pressurized reserve tank (a la the
Bricklin) and air valves. Open the valve on the strut, and the door lowers. Then close
the value and repressurize the strut from the tank, making the door openable again.
Combine this with the remote door openers and you've got a car that can flap it's wings!
Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX
Watkins Family wrote:
> The thread on adjustable door struts does bring up a good question.
> Would any on our vendors who watch this list be able to come up with a
> door strut that is adjustable using air pressure? As we all know, door
> struts don't last forever and at around $60.00 a pop for each I would
> pay a bit more for a door strut that would last longer....
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 10:31:07 -0500
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: New VIN list and production chronology uploaded
Scott,
Where in Alexandria are you? I'm in the Mt. Vernon area and, although not a
DeLorean owner any more, had one for several years. It was very close in
production to yours. Mine was number 11060. I've only seen one other
DeLorean being driven in the area and that's out near Leesburg. Where are
you?
--Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: vahottub@xxxxxxx [mailto:vahottub@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 1:15 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] New VIN list and production chronology uploaded
In a message dated 3/20/2003 5:32:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm
>
10486 is now mine, I am Scott Stiens located in Washington DC suburb of
Alexandria Virginia. My plates are classic Virginia plates reading
"STIENLS."
It is just as your list has it, Grey five speed. It has only 15K on it, and
is in mint condition. Was in airhanger of retired United pilot. Sat and
sat, needed all new rubber parts. But is super clean, and runs very well!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:38:15 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
It seems to me that saying that the self-bleeding kit is a bad idea
because it covers up an underlying problem is rather like saying that
the circuit breaker in the headlight circuit is a bad idea. After all,
if everything is perfect, you don't really need it...
The point is that anything that adds to the robustness of a critical
system is a Good Thing. But the point that such redundant systems
shouldn't be used as a crutch is well-taken.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 09:14:48 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Polyurethane bushings
>Ski Said: Check em out...
>http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html
>Let me know what you think..
I have the adjustable rear set on my car, and they work great.
Gary
IN2TIME
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 09:31:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Door Struts
I think the idea for adjustable door struts is great. Rob Grady's shocks
(for the wheels) are adjustable, so I'm sure he's thought about adjustable
door struts at some point. I'd love to hear his comments on it.
I don't however think that the self-closing door idea would work. Even
without the door struts on the car, the door hovers about 6 inches away
from being closed. You'd have to have negative pressure on the struts to
close the door, and I'm not sure about 1. the feasability of an air
compresser/vaccum and 2. the problems that would arise from pulling the
door shut from the the back and top of the door.
I'm all for the adjustable door struts though.
-Christian
On Fri, 21 Mar 2003, Gus Schlachter wrote:
> If "adjustable" door struts are truly feasable, then the real project here would be to
> have self-closing doors. The car would have a pressurized reserve tank (a la the
> Bricklin) and air valves. Open the valve on the strut, and the door lowers. Then close
> the value and repressurize the strut from the tank, making the door openable again.
>
> Combine this with the remote door openers and you've got a car that can flap it's wings!
>
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
> VIN #4695
> Austin, TX
>
>
>
> Watkins Family wrote:
>
> > The thread on adjustable door struts does bring up a good question.
> > Would any on our vendors who watch this list be able to come up with a
> > door strut that is adjustable using air pressure? As we all know, door
> > struts don't last forever and at around $60.00 a pop for each I would
> > pay a bit more for a door strut that would last longer....
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 18:07:08 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Door Struts
www.delorean.de offers inflatable gas struts.They claim you can
adjust pressure using an air compressor. It's a German site but they
speak english...
Raph
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 19:36:26 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
Nice idea, but what kind of reserve tank will keep more than 170 bar ?
And if you find one - how long will it last ? At least I wouldn't like to
drive around with a large bottle of CO2 on the passenger seat. Hey this
brings up another idea - why not use NOS for the struts and the motor ? ;-)
By the way, adjustable door struts are not only feasable, they are available
!
Elvis & 6548
If "adjustable" door struts are truly feasable, then the real project here
would be to
have self-closing doors. The car would have a pressurized reserve tank (a
la the
Bricklin) and air valves. Open the valve on the strut, and the door lowers.
Then close
the value and repressurize the strut from the tank, making the door openable
again.
Combine this with the remote door openers and you've got a car that can flap
it's wings!
Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 18:41:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
My point in saying the bleeder kit isn't required is that on the cars
I have worked on, once bled they don't need any further attention
except to watch the level. I also think that adding an overflow bottle
is a better idea than the bleeder. Eventually any air still in the
system will be expelled and the cooling system will be air free. Now
if there are any leaks the coolant in the overflow bottle will be
drawn in lowering the level in the overflow bottle warning you of
leaks. IMHO the reason most cars aren't bled properly is that you need
to bleed the radiator too when initialy filling the system. It is a
little less convienient than the thermostat housing to do but it
should be done. All it takes is to loosen the small hose on the top
right side of the radiator till coolant comes out.
There are a couple of things I think make for a more reliable cooling
system. They are
Metal header bottle
Fanzilla (and otterstadt switch and breaker)
Overflow bottle
All metal radiator
This assumes that you have a well maintained, leak free system to
begin with. Old hoses, fan fail relay or bypass wires, origional
belts, bad idler pulley bearings, plastic header bottle, and old
anti-freeze are going to get you into trouble. It is not if but when.
Sticking the self-bleeder on is not going to help much. The bleeder
kit itself isn't a bad thing but it can't correct the problems it is
installed to overcome. If you are having problems bleeding your car
either you are not doing it correctly or you have coolant leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
> It seems to me that saying that the self-bleeding kit is a bad idea
> because it covers up an underlying problem is rather like saying
that
> the circuit breaker in the headlight circuit is a bad idea. After
all,
> if everything is perfect, you don't really need it...
>
> The point is that anything that adds to the robustness of a critical
> system is a Good Thing. But the point that such redundant systems
> shouldn't be used as a crutch is well-taken.
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 17:00:01 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
For those of us, who don't remember how to convert bar to psi, how much
is 170 bar in PSI?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 19:16:41 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean & Lagonda
Does anyone on the list own or previously owned an Aston Martin Lagonda?
Both were engineered by Mike Loasby.
If you have ownership experience with the Lagonda Series 2-4 please email
me offline. I have several pictures of a UK registered DeLorean YX1141, next
to a Navy Blue Lagonda.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 18:56:33 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
One bar is 14.5 psi so 170 bar would be 2465psi. Sounds like a lot but the
piston in the door strut is pretty small so maybe it does take that much to
get enough lift.
Bruce Benson
> For those of us, who don't remember how to convert bar to psi, how much
> is 170 bar in PSI?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 00:56:41 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clarification of the Coolant Self Bleeding Kit
Point taken. Technicly no car *needs* a bleeder kit installed. You can bleed
the system as per the Workshop Manual, and not have any problems at all.
The Self Bleeder Kit is only reccomended as a tool to make things both easier
and faster for you when you are bleeding the system. It is obviously not
intergal to the function of the cooling system itself, and is not intended by
anyone to be a repair method for any type of cooling system problems.
However, using it in no way makes you any less of a capable and competent
mechanic.
There are many tools out there that one doesn't need to complete their repair
and mantenace tasks, but they make things easier. After all, you don't need a
pilot bearing tool to install a clutch, but it certainly makes things a helluva lot
easier. The same goes for other tools used, and even accessories. After all,
many things are not technicly nessisary to install on the DeLorean. The
biggest thing that comes to mind is the spring for the fuel pump pick-up hose
in the gas tank... Not "nessisary" per se, but does indeed make things much
easier. That is the main point of the kit. But, there is another.
Things will happen, Murphy's Law is inevitable. It could be that an alternator
belt breaks, we don't notice it, and over heat the engine. Or in my case, the
stupid little clip on the otterstat falls off, and purges the system of coolant
entirely! And not only do things such as these happen at the worst possible
time, they'll also occur in the worst possible places! A tow truck is only
nessisary when onsite repairs are not possible. And if I can fix that otterstat
with an oversized hose clamp, and refill the system right then and there, I
have no desire to disconnect the radiator hose up front to bleed the system
when I'm stuck in the middle of the BFE, or worse yet, the ghetto. No, I want to
repair things, and be on my way ASAP. Especially since tow trucks, and
insurance companies are so damn unreliable. I personally was stuck in the
middle of a little chunk of hell here in Vegas near D Street & Bonanza for over
8 hours because of an idiot phone rep @ Farmers Insurance call center! So
needless to say, tow trucks are good, but I don't put absolute faith in them, nor
their dependability. So if the bleeder kit can save me a bunch of time for both
routine mantenance, and emergency repair time, then it may not be nessisary,
but is indeed well worth it!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> My point in saying the bleeder kit isn't required is that on the cars
> I have worked on, once bled they don't need any further attention
> except to watch the level.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:35:41 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: $1100 drivers side fender
Greetings everyone,
I am moving in the next few months so I am cutting down on the extra
junk I have. I have listed a front left fender on E-bay. I set the "Buy it
Now" price at a reasonable $1100.00 The fender needs to be rebrushed as it
was scratched up when I found it. It has a VERY VERY small ding that can be
seen in the photos. Email me privately with any questions you have.
<A HREF="" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408065939&category=34204">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408065939&category=34204">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408065939&
category=34204</A>
sorry for self promoting my add, but selling this means I can put insurance
back on my DMC and still pay for a semester of school. woo hoo!
Peace Out
Dave
6286-still sleeping
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:39:39 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Polyurethane bushings
Shocks - Front Gabriel VST LT Gas Ryder G63902 off a
Nissan  ton pickup 69-81 (requires spacers on lower bolt to fit)
Shocks - Rear Monroe Matic-Plus: 94013 Chevrolet Camaro all with multi-leaf rear springs inc. Z-28, 1968-1969 All. Or use adjustable KYBâs for same application (both require spacers and spring collars to fit) For coil spring seat collar on the monroe you can use a Grainger IL708 in steel $11.69. Collar is also available in stainless. Or have your local machine shop turn you a clamp on collar.
I have the white VST Gas Ryders and the blue Monroes installed with custom rear spring collars. Didn't discover the Grainger collars until it was too late
Jim 6147
Steve Deichman <swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>do you have a suggestion on shocks (front and rear)
>steve 10005
> jwit6@xxxxxx wrote:Sway Bar Bushings Front Frame: Summit Racing. Polyurethane. ENS-9-5123G. 19mm $15.69 a pair
>I have these installed in my car and they are a direct bolt up replacement.
>Jim 6147
>
>
>"vegascop1" wrote:
>
>>Has anyone out there had any luck in getting to fit any polyurathane
>>bushings in our cars? I took the front sway bar bushings off and
>>they are very sad. I will wait for about a week and then "research"
>>here we come. Any onfo would be appriciated no matter what bushing
>>you have replaced.
>>
>>Thnx for any help!
>>
>>Ski 4649
>>
>>
>>
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>
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:42:01 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Any DeLorean owners in the Beaverton, OR area???
I'm looking for a DeLorean owner in the Beaverton, OR area. If you're near there, please contact me ASAP at Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxxx Thank you very much!!!
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 03:40:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Door Struts
I think a bigger improvement in the struts would be a temperature
compensating strut. That would make the doors less sensitive to
changes in temperature when opening. In the wintertime my doors won't
open all the way but in the summertime on a HOT day they might open
too hard! I think some of the complaints about the struts would be
solved if they operated more consistanly over a wider temperature
range. Unfortunatly we probably won't see anything like this until the
present stock is depleted and the venders have to reorder. It
shouldn't be too hard to do as all it is is a bimetal spring hooked up
to an orifice inside. I would pay a little more for a better strut. As
far as trying to install a valve into a strut they are under a lot of
internal pressure, if you cut or drill into it you would release a
powerful stream of oil. Under that kind of pressure it could cut into
you or at least it could inject into your body, NOT A GOOD THING!!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx> wrote:
> One bar is 14.5 psi so 170 bar would be 2465psi. Sounds like a lot
but the
> piston in the door strut is pretty small so maybe it does take that
much to
> get enough lift.
>
> Bruce Benson
>
> > For those of us, who don't remember how to convert bar to psi,
how much
> > is 170 bar in PSI?
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 22:50:25 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: AW: Adjustable Door Struts
Bob, Door pistons and others are rated in Newtons.
1 Newton = .224809lb's
thus a door piston is 1200 newtons = 269.77lb's
I louver piston is 130 newtons which ='s 29.23 lb's
1 bar = 14.504 lb's, so 5 bar's of pressure = 72.520lb's of pressure.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
<< For those of us, who don't remember how to convert bar to psi, how much
is 170 bar in PSI?
>>
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 04:22:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My 2 cents Re: Thermostat Bleeder
#5939 burns slightly radical replacement block because PO melted
original @ 2,000 miles or so. Works great for me, but I bet an owner
who wanted something closer to factory would sure wish a LITTLE money
had been spent on a bleeder (if that was problem. Could have been
fans...).
Thermostat bleeder doesn't hurt anything. You can make your own less
than $10. Is one of the few things on car easy to reach. Makes
changing antifreeze fast and easy. Question isn't "why", is "why not".
And isn't it funny that people will spend $hundreds on "fan fixes"
that may not be needed (WooHoo, ANOTHER message thread), but not even
$25 on a fluid fix of similar utility.
Bill Robertson (airport metal detector enemy #1)
#5939
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