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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: left fender - another version
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
8. RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. No Start is Now Starting ... KINDA!!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Rotary D
From: ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx
12. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Trans fluid.
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Rotary D
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: what kind of turbo?
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. To Turbo or not to Turbo
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: No Start is Now Starting ... KINDA!!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Princeton British Car show August 17
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Trans fluid.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: How much HP will the trans, clutch, and chassis take??
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 04:01:03 -0000
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan doesnt kick on - SOMETIMES
Mike, I would make sure the system is full of coolant to the proper
levels and after the car has had time to heat up, then bleed all the
air out. Then watch the temperature gauge as the car heats up. If the
otterstat isn't turning the fans on at about a needle width or so
above the second line on the gauge, then there is something wrong in
the electrical circuit. Could be circuit breaker, fan fail or
otterstat. Not knowing what your car has in it, anything could be
wrong.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com/modifications/
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxx> wrote:
> Just replaced the radiator on my Delorean (actually the entire
> cooling system in the front, radiator, and hoses)...
>
> Anyhow... while it was sitting in my drive way, it hit the 220
mark,
> and the fan didn't come on... it then kept heating up.... so I
turned
> the engine off...
>
> I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the
> front fans on, and it didn't....
>
> Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when
> the air was on, the fans came on....
>
> Then again today... same thing, they didn't function on either...
>
> Is this a common problem, and if so, what do I do to fix it?
>
> I would have thought it was a temp sensor.... but beings it doesn't
> kick on with the AC I assume it's a relay or something?
>
> Any help appreciated.... thanks.
>
> Mike
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 04:10:20 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: left fender - another version
not to mention that your (hopefully empty) passenger takes the
brunt of the force as opposed to the drivers side your sitting on.
Jeremy
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
> On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Hank Eskin wrote:
>
> > I asked how he knew that.. and he explained that it's the
same for many
> > (most?) older/collectible cars - the left front fenders are the
most
> > likely damaged in an accident (moreso than the right FF),
and therefore
> > there are less available due to natural replacement demand.
>
> And how many of us drive our Deloreans planning all the while
to swerve to
> the left if an accident is inevitable, so the right side of the car
takes
> the damage? I know I do.
>
> -andrew
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 04:10:32 -0000
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
Martin, There are several ways to make the fans run all the time, but
I haven't seen the reason why it hurts anything, Again, all I do is
put the system on normal and add a little heat if necessary and they
don't cycle but every few minuits. The compartment size of the
DeLorean and runing on max would make any system shut on and off.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
P.S. I did read Darryl's article..????
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> I noticed on later cars there is both a high and low pressure
switch (But it is near the condenser).. While working on 01860 I saw
the plug and jumper your speaking of. I assumed this was for the
intended high pressure switch. Nothing was broken, so I did not mess
with it. :)
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster@d...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 9:03 AM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxx
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Darryl's AC fan mod
> >
> >
> > Hi John
> >
> > Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on,
but
> > allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this
a
> > plug'n'play solution :-) Does anyone know why there's that
bizarre
> > "removable link" in the orange/pink feed to the evaporator -
> > you can see
> > it in the passenger footwell. You pull the feed from this and use
it
> > (via the diode) to run the fan relay. This places the "drive" for
the
> > fans up-stream of the low pressure switch.
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 04:21:07 -0000
From: "johnsdmc12" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
Casey, I feel the transmission and clutch system can handle any HP
you can put in the car. But what will happen if someone makes you mad
and you forget the HP you have and you want to show off. CenterForce
or standard, something will have to give. Better it be the clutch
system. Because if you put in a better clutch and it holds then
something in the transmission will give. I now have had 3 situations
in manual trans where the clutch shaft has broken and striped the
gears. PN#103071. Try to find one. Clutches are cheap. Stick with
standard and let it be the Weakest Link.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high
performance. I am curious as to if any of you know what kind of
Horsepower and torque the tranny will take, I once heard 275. I am
not the pop the clutch at 5,000rpm kind of guy and am very smooth
driver so is 300 too much what about 350, and 400? Also, I know I can
get a centerforce clutch, what kind of power will that take before it
starts to slip? Are there any other clutches you know of. And one
last thing, will the chassis be able to cope with this. Thanks in
advance.
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 04:21:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take??
Have you ever ridden in a 350+ HP automobile? They are *exceptionally*
uncomfortable (remember: performance and comfort are at two opposite
ends of the spectrum). Cam action beats you to death. You have to
shout to be heard. Scratch the word "idle" from your dictionary. Ever
notice no one drives "high performance" cars on a vacation?(would be
an endurance test). Horsepower is like everything else in life: best
used in moderation. Why don't you settle for 200 or so and spend the
rest of your development budget on an upgraded sound system YOU WILL
STILL BE ABLE TO HEAR.
Bill.
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high
>performance.
>
>what about 350, and 400?
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 00:30:42 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
Mark, The AC cycling has to do with the amount of warmer air moving over the
evaporator coil inside the car, The Fan Fix and the Fan Zilla affect the
cooling fans over the radiator for cooling the water and the condensor coil
outside.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still be a
good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?
Mark N
VIN 6820 >>
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 00:33:15 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod
Bill, You would be ok if you install lower wattage bulbs. I did a post about
6 months ago about tail light bulbs that give off about 80% the same light
but 1/2 the current draw.
John hervey
<< y question: would constant burn on 2 and 4 generate too much heat for
the bezels? That may be reason for extra large 3 (and a noticeably
smaller bulb). >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 21:40:15 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take
Casey, I think I can address this. My car is putting out about 300HP (see photo at www.delorean-parts.com) using a Centerforce clutch. So far with fairly "brisk" driving there have been absolutely no clutch or chassis problems. The weak point, as I found out the hard way, is the splined coupler between the transmission input shaft and mainshaft. It is very soft metal and not splined all the way around. It may be intended to act as a "fusible link", but in order to prevent a repeat I had a new fully-splined bulletproof coupler made by an aerospace machine shop. However, it was quite difficult finding anyone who could do it.
Another weak point is the use of stock pistons in a supercharged car, but that's a story for another time. Suffice it to say that new forged blower pistons have been installed...
As for those who doubt high horsepower output from our lowly PRV, see the recent post about John Lane's twin turbo 500HP Volvo race car. It is a well known, frequent off-road winner in this area. All it takes is lots of $$$$$.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 23:17:51 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?
Very good Bruce. This is a problem that many of us aftermarket turbo folk
have. As I was reading your explanation it reminded me of something my dad
did many years ago. We did a lot of boating with two stroke outboard motors
and therefore mixed a lot of oil in with the fuel. My father would always
buy off the shelf motor oil for the purpose even though his buddies would
spend twice as much on "two stroke oil". He maintained that if you read the
label and it stated that it was refined from "paraffin based" crude that it
would burn clean (like a candle). I didn't question it at the time but it
seemed to work just fine. Maybe it would work equally well for our oil
burning turbo cars now? I'm off to read some labels.....
Don Ekhoff
----- Original Message -----
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] what kind of turbo?
> > Every supercharger I have seen blows the forced
> > induction right through the carb or into the throttle
> > body. > HOWEVER, the BAE single turbo kit and the Turbo
> > Manifold Twin kit are "blow-by"; ie, the forced
> > induction is blown into the intake manifold to
> > supplement the air pulled into the throttle body.
> > Is there a performance advantage of one approach over
> > the other?
>
> Marc Levy's response comparing his legend set up to his Island system was
> interesting. I'd like to expand on it with my experiences. I designed a
draw
> through system similar to the BAE kits and had good experiences with it
for
> several years.
[Moderator snip]
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 03:01:47 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: No Start is Now Starting ... KINDA!!
Ok .. once again .. THANK YOU ALL sooo much for all the help
Really appreciated
I am making headway here and the car will start up no problem in the
morning
And idle fine
BUT!!
I let her warm up.. and then shut her off and try to start again..
NOTHING!
Have to wait a few hours
Try again and she goes!
I am stumped
The only thing I can think is that the mixture control unit adjustment
screw was screwed around with
The village idiot here decided he would help me out and spin it around
and around
When I asked him where it was originally. "Duh. I dunno"
So .. I tried my best to adjust it to run properly . but I still run
into the problem of it not being able to start her back up immediately
when shut off
Any help is always appreciated!
Thanks
Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 07:43:15 GMT
From: ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Rotary D
I've finally thrown together a page for the many people who have asked me questions about my monster. I mean car.
Suggestions are welcome. email me privately. Thanks
http://www.eliseusa.com/rotary.html
Jim
1537
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:11:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
It would kind of render one of the FanZilla's main features redundant,
that of sequencing the fans so they do not come on the instant the
compressor does. This mod also takes some of the load off the fan relay
simply because it'll not have to switch anything like as often.
Martin
#1458
Mark Noeltner wrote:
>Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still be a
>good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?
>
>Mark N
>VIN 6820
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:26:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question Re: Taillight Mod
Bill
I'm wondering "why?"
If you take the 4 brake lights to be 1 2 3 and 4, I think we've pretty
much decided over here that 2 and 3 aren't brake lights anyway. The
cluster was designed to include the european-required fog lights. If you
look at them, 2 and 3 have a more focused pattern than 1 and 4. They are
meant to be switched on when it's foggy, and perhaps you guys aren't
used to seeing them but I can guarantee one very quick way to annoy
other road users is to drive along with your fogs on when it ain't foggy!
You might like to have a look at my foglight modification, which is
required on all UK DeLoreans
www.delorean.co.uk/foglights.html
Retains the use of all 4 lights for braking, but allows 2 and 3 to be
switched on independently.
Cheers
Martin
#1458
content22207 wrote:
>Am considering following modification this winter:
>
>On rear boards:
> Burn positions 2 and 4 as taillights
> Burn positions 2 3 and 4 as brake lights
>I'd leave boards intact w/ OE single filament sockets -- insert mod
>before card edge connectors. Positions 2 and 4 would be switched with
>a relay triggered by 3 itself.
>
>My question: would constant burn on 2 and 4 generate too much heat for
>the bezels? That may be reason for extra large 3 (and a noticeably
>smaller bulb).
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:05:45 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.
Okay, this is going back to this past spring when I changed my transmission
fluid. You sound like you are having the same trouble I had. I couldn't get
the plug off either. I believe the problem was that I let the transmission
cool and it ceased on the plug. So, I had to heat it up with a propane torch
and wrench it off with Vise Grips. I think if you drive it around a while
and then take it off you shouldn't have as much trouble.
Also, buy the oil that comes in the squeeze bottle. It's an awkward position
and it's hard to get the fluid in there. The squeeze bottle will make it an
simpler job. I had to siphon mine in and it took forever because the oil is
so thick. To make matters worse, the day stretched into night and the oil
cooled off and had to be heated on the stove to make it viscous enough to be
siphoned!
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:44:48 EDT
> From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Re: Trans fluid.
>
> In a message dated 8/6/02 11:47:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
> erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> > Hi,
> > Assuming you have a 5 speed tranny, the filler screw is on the
> > passenger side of the tranny. The drain plug is on the bottom of the
> > tranny.
> >
> > Erik
>
> anyone have any good tips on removing the check plug on the manual tranny?
> mine won't budge. what type of tool works best on it? i know my fluid is
> good because i had it cracked open and cleaned last year -but i want to be
> able to check it at my leisure.
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 08:19:19 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rotary D
If we could only get all these hot rod Deloreans together on a drag
strip, it would be a blast.
BOB
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 06:20:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?
Bruce Benson's input on my turbo question was
extremely interesting. It would seem to me that,
designed from scratch, a "blow-thru" system would be
no more difficult than a "blow-by". >From input
received so far, the only disadvantage would be in the
lack of vacuum to run auxillary devices. Vacuum
cannisters are available for this purpose.
BTW, Turbonetics has purchased the automotive turbo
portion of Rajay's business. This could hold promise
for those running Rajay turbos.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 08:24:53 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what kind of turbo?
Donald
I would be very careful about paraffinic based crude oil products.
Years ago a study was done of this type of oil versus non-paraffinic
oils . The parafinic products contained more wax type long change
hydrocarbons. These tended to brake down easily and carbonize resulting
in waxy build up in motors and earily motor failure.
From my experience, over 45 years. THe dirty engines that I have seen
were from paraffinic based oils.
BOB
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:26:22 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: To Turbo or not to Turbo
As I move towards the conlusion of the main
restoration of #6463, I am looking for a winter
project. The first thing that came to mind was a
Right-hand drive conversion..... However I do like the
left side driving.
So the next Idea was and after market Turbo. After all
the conversation going on around this subject, I am
really starting to get fired up to do this.
What I am looking for are suggestions, hints and tips,
do's and do not's, around this sort of project.
If you have done this please advise
If you know where to start again please help.
Cheers
Paul #6463
paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Everything you'll ever need on one web page
from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:33:05 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
So let me get this strait: The DeLorean's AC system is unusual in that
it cycles relatively rarely - rarely enough in fact to be worth turning
the fans on and off with the compressor - correct?
Martin
johnsdmc12 wrote:
>Martin, There are several ways to make the fans run all the time, but
>I haven't seen the reason why it hurts anything, Again, all I do is
>put the system on normal and add a little heat if necessary and they
>don't cycle but every few minuits. The compartment size of the
>DeLorean and runing on max would make any system shut on and off.
>John Hervey
>www.specialTauto.com
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:42:38 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Darryl's AC fan mod
To use the Fanzilla it is important to have a stock set-up. Any mods
to the wiring of the cooling system except using a higher capacity
circuit breaker will change the operation of the Fanzilla. It is also
recomended to replace the Otterstadt switch as the old one usually
doesn't have the right set-points and may come on too early or too
late and make the fans run too long. For further info contact P.J.
Grady. The Fanzilla was intended for the stock set-up because there
are just too many things that could be changed and then you would have
to test each change for it's affect on the Fanzilla. This was meant to
be a "plug n' play" deal.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxx> wrote:
> Does the Fanzilla affect the fan vs. AC cycling? Or would this still
be a
> good modification to do even if you have a Fanzilla installed?
>
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
>
> At 02:03 PM 8/6/02 +0100, you wrote:
> >Hi John
> >
> >Darryl's mod makes the fans run continuously when the AC is on, but
> >allows the compressor to cycle normally. Hell, I could make this a
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:48:10 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Start is Now Starting ... KINDA!!
I assume when you say "nothing" you mean the engine cranks over but
will not start. This now sounds like the classic "Hard Hot Start". I
would check the accumulater. There is also a quick check to try.
Temporaraly switch the plugs on the regulater and cold start valve,
that should start it. If it does then it is either a bad, missing
check valve on the fuel pump, leaky valve on the mixture unit, or a
bad accumulater. Pull the return hose at the accumulater and if it
shoots gas when the fuel pump runs (from the accumulater) then it is
gone.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok .. once again .. THANK YOU ALL sooo much for all the help
>
> Really appreciated
>
> I am making headway here and the car will start up no problem in the
> morning
>
> And idle fine
>
> BUT!!
>
> I let her warm up.. and then shut her off and try to start again..
> NOTHING!
>
> Have to wait a few hours
>
> Try again and she goes!
>
> I am stumped
>
> The only thing I can think is that the mixture control unit
adjustment
> screw was screwed around with
>
> The village idiot here decided he would help me out and spin it
around
> and around
>
> When I asked him where it was originally. "Duh. I dunno"
>
> So .. I tried my best to adjust it to run properly . but I still run
> into the problem of it not being able to start her back up
immediately
> when shut off
>
>
> Any help is always appreciated!
>
>
> Thanks
> Kenneth
> 05541
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:59:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Princeton British Car show August 17
There is a British Car Show hosted by the Austin-Healy Sports and
Touring Club and The New Jersey Triumph Association this August 17
11:00 AM till 4:00 in Princeton, New Jersey. The website is
registration@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Or if you E-mail me I can fax you
the flyer I got. The event is open to all British sports cars. British
Car Show contact is Rob Vollers rvollers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx or
908-725-1026.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:03:21 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid.
Use the proper adapter and a long breaker bar. If required stick a
pipe on it. The careful use of heat around the plug on the case may
also help. When replacing use a little teflon tape on the plug and it
will be easier to remove.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
anyone have any good tips on removing the check plug on the manual
tranny?
> mine won't budge. what type of tool works best on it? i know my
fluid is
> good because i had it cracked open and cleaned last year -but i want
to be
> able to check it at my leisure.
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:04:29 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: RE: How much HP will the tranny, cluch, and chassis take
Darryl,
Do you have an idea of the cost for "a new fully-splined bulletproof
coupler" like yours? I suspect there are a few people on the list who
would like to install one during their conversion, rather than after the
stock one fails at full throttle.
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:07:37 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How much HP will the trans, clutch, and chassis take??
Bill and List,
I do not want to go too far off on a tangent with the High HP theme,
but High HP does not imply uncomfortable. In 1997, I drove a BMW
750IL with a V12 that put out 385 HP and 400 lbs of torque, and that
was the most comfortable car I have ever driven in with that much HP.
Of course, I was testing the emergency messaging system for Motorola
and could never actually afford the $95,000 sticker price for it.
Most high HP applications are done in conjunction with suspension
upgrades, which often allow the car to "turn like it was on rails"
but often sacrifice comfort. There are compromises that can be made
but they can bring you to a "middle ground" with high HP and comfort.
I have a new High HP Delorean project that I have just begun and I'll
let you know which direction I will be headed, re: HP and comfort.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Have you ever ridden in a 350+ HP automobile? They are
*exceptionally*
> uncomfortable (remember: performance and comfort are at two opposite
> ends of the spectrum).
>
>snip<
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hello all, I am planning on building my stock motor for high
> >performance.
> >
> >what about 350, and 400?
> >
> > snip < <
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