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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Mufflers
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Low Mileage Emissions Exemption
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
3. RE: upper RR screen & Black insulation
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Looking for car cover
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Low Mileage Emissions Exemption
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Positive Magazine Article in S.E.Asia
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. DeLorean Vendors
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
8. One step closer
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: One step closer
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: A TABs HOW-TO?
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. DeLorean Car Show
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:46:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mufflers
Ralf
They look just like the originals. They are the
Chambered turbo mufflers - 4"x 8"x 10". These were
the "turbo chambered mufflers" - 2" core, 2" center
inlet and 2" offset outlet. I also had them make a
pair of 3" body resonator tips - 8" overall length -
2.25" core - straight cut - polished.
I didn't get the mufflers polished since they were
backed up and I had a time contraint due to Memphis.
Yes, the sizing on the mufflers was "custom".
Dick
--- Ralf Philipp <doc.brown@xxxxxx> wrote:
> Dick!
>
> Are there any pictures of your new muffler
> available? Or does it look the
> same as the original?
>
> There are many different mufflers on the homepage of
> stainlessworks. Can you
> give us a hint, which type it is, or was it custom
> made for you?
>
> ciao,
> Ralf.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:46:59 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Low Mileage Emissions Exemption
In Mass. the are no emmisions testing for vehicles 1984 and older.
"Thank-you"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 23:21:33 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: upper RR screen & Black insulation
I've got some info up here:
www.mindspring.com/~kecreason/delorean/upper_RR_screen.html
The metal stock is shaped like a 'j' and requires some bending into an 'L'.
-----Original Message-----
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx [mailto:billsfanmd@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:27 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] upper RR screen & Black insulation
I have the same problem with my T-Panel. I am curious what your bracket
looks
like.....if you can put your email address on a message so I can respond to
you directly that would be great. I am at Billsfanmd(at)aol.com. Right now
just my left tab does not have anything to clamp onto but I am sure the
others are not far behind...
Also since we are in that part of the car....I have a question about the
rear
side air vents...At the back of each side window there is a black vent that
goes down into the car on each side....It is wrapped/insulated with some
sort
of black tape??? what is this stuff?...Mine is starting to peel apart and I
would like to find something else to rewrap it and make it look
nicer...silicone? black cloth tape???
thanks,
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 06:19:26 -0000
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for car cover
No room in the garage for the Delorean right now. Any ideas on
where to find a good fitting car cover?
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:04:28 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Low Mileage Emissions Exemption
In New Jersey, the dyno test is not required on cars built before 1984. This information came from a DMV employee I spoke with when the new inspection system was first started. The tester may not know this, but if you press the issue they should not require you to put your DeLorean on the rollers. This does not really stop the inspector from driving your car, because they still need to do the brake test.
A bit OT: I believe the tests in NJ will be changed again soon such that the Dyno will only be used on cars build between 1984 and 1996. For cars newer than 1996, they will simply hook up a diagnostic tool to the onboard ECU to look for stored trouble codes.
Of course there are a lot of political and legal things going on around this in NJ. After all, the whole system was developed with profit in mind- not the environment! Because the Whitman (Yea, the person who is now heading the federal EPA) plan is such a fiasco, I am sure it will not be settled any time soon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jtrealtywebspannet [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 4:20 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Low Mileage Emissions Exemption
>
>
> I just found out that here in New Jersey there is such a thing as an
> exemption for low mileage vehicles. If you drive less than 10,000
> miles in 2 years you are eligable to waive the dyno test. To qualify
> you must have been fully inspected prior so they can check the
> mileage. This is great for me as I have regular plates on the car. My
<SNIP>
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 00:58:35 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Positive Magazine Article in S.E.Asia
Hi DMCers,
After last weeks depressing article in the British "Classic Car Mart" it
gives me pleasure to advise of a very positive article this week in "Eye
Witness" (a magazine in S.E.Asia for Executives).
It is entitled "DeLorean : The most Controversial Collectable Car." The 2
page article gives a good history of the car and positive comments. It has a
section on the Gold DMC for sale in Texas.
The author contacted me for photos. It has my lhd CA car shown, Chris
Parnham's rhd interior, and a shot of Eurofest2001 infront of Stormount
Castle.
(Martin Gutkowski ... if I scan it can you stick it on the DOC web-site for
all to view?)
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
****************************
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 11:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Vendors
It has been pointed out to me that my post regarding
mufflers might be construed as a "don't buy from a
DeLorean vendor" post. NOTHING could be further from
the truth.
My post was directed primarily to those with the twin
turbo set-up. To my knowledge, the DeLorean vendors
do not stock these mufflers - frankly, they are not
DeLorean parts.
I also pointed out that those who were looking to
upgrade their exhaust systems might consider the
vendor I used. If you are running stock and want to
keep your car that way, fine!
I buy literally all my parts from "approved" DeLorean
vendors and will continue to do so. They make it
possible for us to drive our cars and I certainly
drive mine.
If I stepped on anyone's toes, I apologize. Hell,
having an artificial leg, I am already toe challenged.
Dick Ryan
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 20:30:23 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: One step closer
In my quest for cold air, I have started to rebuild my air-con system from
almost scratch.
Tonight I have re connected all the vacuum pipes to the mode switch and all
their various vacuum actuators. To my surprise I got them all working first
time, and doing what they should when they should.
I have 1 issue, when I switch between modes on the switch I get a hissing
sound from the back of the switch, and it doesn't always completely 'make
the connection'.
Is the mode switch shot and needs replacing or can it be fixed?
Cheers
Paul
#6463
www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 15:39:57 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: One step closer
> I have 1 issue, when I switch between modes on the switch I get a hissing
> sound from the back of the switch, and it doesn't always completely 'make
> the connection'.
The mode switch might have dried out and needs to be cleaned & re-lubed.
Take it apart and inspect the rubber maze to see if it is worn or chewed up.
This part can be replaced with a reproduction from PJ Grady. If it is still
good, then give it a very light film of silicone grease and put it back
together. I know that silicone won't rot rubber, but other lubricants
might. If it still hisses it is probably too worn or compressed with age
and needs to be replaced. If you are really feeling cheap, you might be
able to shim the inside to make a tighter seal. The rubber part is supposed
to have two barbs that hold it in place. Be sure these haven't sheared off.
Walt
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 01:05:26 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A TABs HOW-TO?
Hank - Here's a brief snapshot of the process to get a quick look at
the TAB's to make sure that they at least *appear* to be secure.
Naturally, the only way to know for sure is to remove them, and
examine them very carefully for signs of cracking, corrosion, etc.
(If you take them out for a good look, you might as well install a set
of TOBY-TAB's back in, and be done with it - subtle plug :-) ) Put
the car up on ramps or jacks. Remove the sheet metal shields from the
area on both sides. The studs can sometimes spin while trying to take
the nuts off, so it may take two people to do this step. Examine the
trailing arm joint common to the frame for signs of obvious distress,
such as bent parts (frame members, trailing arm, etc.). Grab the shims
and try to move them around the bolt shank itself. If the bolt is
tight, you can't move the shims ... if the bolt has come even a little
loose, you can rotate the shims rather easily. With a rachet and
socket on the head of the bolt, rotate the bolt in a clockwise
direction, and observe the shims carefully. If the bolt is bent, the
shims will appear to move up and down when the bolt is turning. I say
clockwise because you don't want to accidentally loosen the bolt while
inspecting it. Inspect the two small bolts that attach the rubber
bushing plate to the frame. The bolts must be secure. I have seen
these shear off and/or fall out. This allows some movement in the
joint, but is not as catastrophic as a brokem bolt can be because of
the retention of the large flat washers on each side of the joint. If
all appears well, check the torque on the TAB using a torque wrench,
with a box-end wrench on the other end. You will probably have to
check the torque on the head of the bolt, unless you have a
low-profile torque wrench. Set the wrench to 50 - 55 ft-lbs. You may
get a slight rotation of the assembly due to wear on the flat washers
or the steel sleeves in the joint. Once you are satisfied with the
inspection, put the shields back on in reverse order, and away you go.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx> wrote:
> could someone provide a "TABs for Dummies"
> step-by-step explanation on how to check them?
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:29:09 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Car Show
Well we are down to less than two weeks
if there are any of you that still want to register it must be in the mail by
this coming Friday for me to receive it before I leave for Memphis.
Just a reminder please bring sun screen/ rain gear in case of rain because we
will have the show rain or shine (vendor sales will move inside)
And your enthusiasm
I have had a lot of requests for information on the Nascar racing cars
The web page is www.4raceon.com phone 866-4raceon
There are going to be a few extras I am working on and if I get them
confirmed before I leave I will post them.
thanks for your support and see you in Memphis
(LESS THAN TWO WEEKS AND COUNTING)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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