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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Vacuum issue? (Resolved) & Hazards.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Chirping sound and more
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Chirping sound and more
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Chirping sound and more
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Someone sent me some viruses.
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. new cat & higher idle
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Borla mufflers
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. trailing arm information and other potential failures
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Fuel Cell Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: new cat & higher idle
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuel Cell Question.
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: new cat & higher idle
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: new cat & higher idle
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. stubborn lock
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
15. Re:Fuel Cell Question.
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
16. RE: Fuel Cell Question.
From: "Martin Pajak" <martin@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: new cat & higher idle
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Borla Exhaust
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Conversion parts for BTTF car
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re:Fuel Cell Question.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. rust in the engine?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
22. Re: trailing arm information and other potential failures
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: stubborn lock
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: Fuel Cell Question.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
25. Re: Simple questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 03:16:11 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vacuum issue? (Resolved) & Hazards.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxx> wrote:
> I suppose that you could inhale too.
You could, but I would strongly advise against it. Just around the
spark plug itself, you have dielectric grease, and anti-seize
compount. Not to mention engine degreaser, and all sorts of
nasty road grime. None of these are items that you want to have
anywhere near your mouth, let alone even bare skin!
If you're @ home, and you really want to get ALL of the moisture
out from the spark plug wells, a hair dryer will work quite nicely.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 03:34:33 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chirping sound and more
When replacing brake pads you should use 80# grit pads mounted in a
drill and scuff the surfaces of the rotor. This is necessary to allow
the new pads to "break in" and also condition the surface of the
rotors. It exposes fresh cast iron to the pads. It also removes any
tendency to "threading" that is the tendency for the pads to move up
and down like a record player needle following a track. If this
doesn't help there are tubes of anti-squeal compound that can be
applied to the backs of the pads. Make sure that there is nothing
loose or caught up like a spring or clip that could be rubbing, and
that the E-brake pads aren't dragging. Where did you get the pads? The
only way to be sure you have the correct pads is if you got them from
a "D" vender. This is a case where just because they physicaly fit
doesn't mean they are correct. Different pads are compounded for
different cars and you cannot tell by looking at them. Sometimes pads
come with a plastic shim attached on the metal backing plate. The
point here is if you got them localy and they used a cross-over in
many cases it is just a matter that they fit but may not really be
correct.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I still have the chirping sound when driving my car. I tried gently
applying the brake and found that the sound stopped, so I replaced all my
pads
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 23:30:35 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chirping sound and more
If the squeak happens only when you apply the brakes & is worse when the
brakes are cold, then it sounds like you have glazed pads. This can happen
when new pads are not broken in properly. To fix this, what you need to do
is take the pads off, rough up the pad's surface with sandpaper and do the
same for the rotors. If this is your problem then you will see a noticeable
difference as you sand the glaze off. (The glaze usually gives the pads &
rotors a blue/gray color.) I suggest using a coarse grit sandpaper such as
100 or 150 grit. Before you finish, spray the pads & rotors liberally with
disk brake cleaner to remove any grease, fingerprints & sanding residue. Be
extra careful with the dust if you are using asbestos-containing brake pads.
Then with everything back together, break in the brakes carefully. Bring
the car up to approximately 30 miles per hour, then apply the brakes very
slowly & gently until the car stops. Wait at least 20 seconds then repeat
this procedure for a total of 10 cycles. The purpose of this procedure is
to help get the pads seated properly. This is especially important if you
have not had your rotors cut in the process of replacing your pads. The
high spots (grooves) on your rotors will touch the pads first providing
inadequate surface area to dissipate heat. This heat buildup is what causes
the glaze to form. Once you have done the initial break-in, continue to use
the brakes gently for the next 500 miles while the pads wear to match the
grooves in the rotors. Even with new (or cut) rotors, a 500 mile break-in
period is the rule of thumb for all cars.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 00:25:47 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Chirping sound and more
Adam, Even though pad's may make a noise, I find that chirping isn't the pad
it's self it's the wheel is slightly out of round or the pad isn't true, it's
a metal to metal. About a 1/'16 th of an inch will do it. It's where the
pin's are holding the pad on.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 08:35:26 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Someone sent me some viruses.
Two viruses were sent to me by someone who is supposedly a member of the
DML. Luckily hotmail caught them before I opened the attachments. They were
using the name "Fred Gaines" and the email address was "beanie@xxxxxxxx".
Beware.
Adam
(I've recieved this same email virus myself, the same way. Fred, have you had a chance to clean it out ? Marty, this weeks moderator)
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 13:01:22 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: new cat & higher idle
since my cat replacement the car does definitely idle higher AFTER warm-up.
When the engine is good and warm and few miles down the road it is idling
about 1,000. After cold startup and during warm up it right on, hanging
around 750.
Is this an easy thing to adjust?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 12:06:12 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Borla mufflers
> Did I miss the final verdict on the Borla muffler that fit up to the DeLorean?
> I was just wondering if a cross reference had ever been established?
Jim - I don't know about Borla, but a recent ad for Stainless Specialties in
Florida (561-589-4190) shows a s/s "Mega-oval muffler" available with single
or double outlets, and single or double inlets too. Prices start at $149.
I have a different model of their mufflers on my supercharged car and most
people think they sound pretty good.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 20:38:10 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: trailing arm information and other potential failures
i hear much talk of this trailing arm bolt problem, can someone give me an
overview of this... how to check it and repair if needed. i looked at the
diagrams at houston's site but.... i'd like some more info.
is there anything that i should check to make sure she's running and
performing well?
does anyone have a carfax account that could run the vin for me. i'd like to
see what mileage it reports... my spedometer hs been broken since i bought
the car..... so the odemeter is probably far far off./
please email off list if you can help me!
thanks!
james lalonde 001697
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 03:44:06 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Cell Question.
Just a quick question:
Was the mounting of the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank to save
space, or was it a safety concern? In other words, if the pump
was mounted outside of the tank, is there a possibility that it
could be punctured, and the electrical connections exposed?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 05:10:38 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: new cat & higher idle
It's not a matter of what to adjust and how to do it. When the car is
correctly set up the idle is non-adjustable. My guess is that the
motor was not correctly idling before you did the cat, it's just more
noticeable now. The idle computer automatically sets the idle speed if
everything is correctly set-up and connected. See the Workshop Manual
for the correct procedures for the idle. Make sure the idle switch is
being activated and is working when the throttle spool hits it at
idle. Use a meter to verify it electrically, don't count on the click.
Make sure the 3 brass screws are LIGHTLY seated. Make sure there are
no vacuum leaks. Make sure that the throttle is fully returned to idle
and it is smooth and not sticking. Check the timing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> since my cat replacement the car does definitely idle higher AFTER
warm-up.
> When the engine is good and warm and few miles down the road it is
idling
> about 1,000. After cold startup and during warm up it right on,
hanging
> around 750.
> Is this an easy thing to adjust?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 01:14:31 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Cell Question.
> Was the mounting of the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank to save
> space, or was it a safety concern? In other words, if the pump
> was mounted outside of the tank, is there a possibility that it
> could be punctured, and the electrical connections exposed?
The biggest reason for the pump being mounted in the tank is that all
electric fuel pumps in general are better at pushing fuel than sucking it.
In fact, they suck so badly [sic] that they try to get them as close to the
bottom of the tank as possible.
There is another list member, Andrei Cular, who mounted his fuel pump
outside of the tank. I think his goal was to save on buying a new fuel pump
boot, so he made his own that was basically a cap. I haven't heard him give
any complaints with this arrangement. So perhaps these fuel pumps suck well
[sic] after all.
I doubt that locating the fuel pump in the tank has anything to do with
safety or saving space. My biggest concern with what Andrei did is that I
question whether or not a Bosch fuel pump can reliably suck that good [sic
again!]. I have looked through a lot of high performance automotive
catalogues and have yet to see anything that can begin to replace the pump
used in the DeLorean who's Bosch continuous injection requires fuel
pressures in the range of 72-81 psi. As fuel systems go, that is extremely
high. As a comparison, the Bosch intermittent injection requires 31-40 psi,
domestic throttle-body injection uses 10-11 psi, and typical carburetor
systems use 1-2 psi.
For what it's worth, my humble opinion is to just use the OEM setup with all
it's quirks. But if you can come up with something that makes less noise
and doesn't require an exotic fuel suction hose, then I would like to see
that.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 01:36:46 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: new cat & higher idle
> since my cat replacement the car does definitely idle higher AFTER
warm-up.
> When the engine is good and warm and few miles down the road it is idling
> about 1,000. After cold startup and during warm up it right on, hanging
> around 750.
> Is this an easy thing to adjust?
Kevin,
It seems unlikely that there is a causal relationship between replacing your
cat and having a high idle after warm-up. Did you have this idle condition
before you replaced the cat? As far as adjustments, this is a matter of
confusion for many mechanics. There are adjustment screws on the air intake
manifold, but in the case of the DeLorean, these screws are not supposed to
be used. This is a feature that was carried over from older configurations
that was obsolete by the time these engines were put in the DeLorean.
Still, that doesn't stop some mechanics from trying to adjust them anyway.
The only proper way to adjust them is to make sure that all 3 are lightly
seated all the way down.
The idle is controlled by a computer that is programmed to keep it in the
750/950 rpm range. Since you are getting 1000 rpm, this is a bit high. The
most obvious thing to check (after seating the 3 adjustment screws) is to
make sure that the idle speed mircoswitch is closing. This is a switch that
senses when your foot is off the accelerator and tells the idle speed
computer to activate. There are various things that can stop this switch
from working. Check it out and let us know what you find.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 01:37:20 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: new cat & higher idle
The first item to check is to determine if the accelerator linkage is
sticking. Conduct the following test: While the engine is idling at the
higher RPM's push the accelerator linkage arm that contains the two stop
screws towards the stop plate.
If the idle drops to normal check to insure that the accelerator cable outer
jacket is not hung up where it enters the throttle abutment (parts manual
fig 16).
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Dmc /dml" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 2:01 PM
Subject: [DML] new cat & higher idle
> since my cat replacement the car does definitely idle higher AFTER
warm-up.
> When the engine is good and warm and few miles down the road it is idling
> about 1,000. After cold startup and during warm up it right on, hanging
> around 750.
> Is this an easy thing to adjust?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 02:47:57 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: stubborn lock
Today when I turned my driver side key it worked stiffly in the clockwise
direction. It will click as if unlocked, but it's not. If I hold the key in
the turned position, and simultaneously lift the door handle, it's still
locked. Then if I release the key, it springs back to center position,
accompanied by a locking sound, as if relocking itself. Turning to lock then
relock won't help. It's done this before but somehow corrects itself. I do
have Lockzilla. Once before I opened it by reaching across from the
passenger side. When unlocking on the passenger side, I don't hear any
corresponding click on the driver side. Any ideas on a cure?
-Wayne
11174
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 02:52:44 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Fuel Cell Question.
In a message dated 2/4/2002 12:00:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx writes:
> Was the mounting of the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank to save
> space, or was it a safety concern? In other words, if the pump
> was mounted outside of the tank, is there a possibility that it
> could be punctured, and the electrical connections exposed?
>
I know some pickups have the pump in the tank, too. You have to drop the
entire gas tank to work on it. The DeLorean fuel pump arrangement wins hands
down over that for ease of access. :)
Wayne A. Ernst
11174
DMCTech Group
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:22:46 -0500
From: "Martin Pajak" <martin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel Cell Question.
> I doubt that locating the fuel pump in the tank has anything to do with
> safety or saving space. My biggest concern with what Andrei did is that I
> question whether or not a Bosch fuel pump can reliably suck that good [sic
> again!].
A lot of CIS cars (including performance like 911 or Quattro) used external
Bosch pumps.
They were relatively close to the fuel tank and mounted in the lowest spot
possible.
> used in the DeLorean who's Bosch continuous injection requires fuel
> pressures in the range of 72-81 psi. As fuel systems go, that is
extremely
> high.
This is very normal for CIS (in German cars anyway), usually injectors won't
even open unless the pressure is above 50psi.
Hope this helps.
Martin Pajak
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:39:01 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: new cat & higher idle
Kevin, There is no adjustment for the idle speed. Unless you have a small air
leak somewhere around the engine. There are several places the engine can get
more air. A lot of time the throttle body butterflies or the air flow meter
may not be perfectly aligned and closing correctly. Mine idles at around 950
if the RPM meter is correct.
You can adjust the position of how far the peddle goes down to the striker
plate, but the micro switch screw would have to readjusted also.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 14:48:12 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Borla Exhaust
Jim and Group, I am having some headers made for 11004 and I found
out that there a lot of mufflers and very small cat's that can
replace our set up. New technology and new products.The shop man
showed me several mufflers that would adapt depending on the sound I
wanted. Just and idea, some were straight thru and street legal, some
such as Flowmaster routs the exhaust around in the muffler and some
have fiber material inside to also assist in the sound and muffle.
Now day's you can have your cake on exhaust and eat it to. All I was
shown were legal in Texas.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, mrvideosawyer@xxxx wrote:
> Group,
> Did I miss the final verdict on the Borla muffler that fit up to
the DeLorean? I was just wondering if a cross reference had ever
been established?
>
> Jim Sawyer
> Vin 4149
> --
> Jim Sawyer
> DeLorean Vin #41499
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas.
Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
>
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 14:50:58 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Conversion parts for BTTF car
Does anyone know the model number of this coffee grinder?
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx> wrote:
> List,
>
> I have bought a proper "Mr Fusion" from Paul in the UK , He may
still have
> a spare one, try him on paul@xxxx
>
> It really is the business! A proper Krupps coffee grinder all be
badged
> with the proper "Mr. Fusion decals". Mine sits beside me as I write!
> Awaiting fitting to my "Time Machine"!
>
> Chris Parnham DOC UK
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Atamaniuk [mailto:martydmc12@h...]
> Sent: 05 January 2002 07:59
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] Conversion parts for BTTF car
>
> The hardest part one will have in obtaining will be the Mr. Fusion,
a.k.a. a
> Krups Coffee Grinder. The grinder alone goes for a few hundred
dollars on
> eBay.
>
> Hopefully with time and patience, BTTF.com may have a section
containing
> blueprints and diagrams of the BTTF DMC-12.
>
> Randy
> Vin #16353
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:
http://messenger.msn.com
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderator@xxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 14:56:56 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Fuel Cell Question.
The biggest single advantage to mounting the fuel pump in the tank is
that it keeps the noise down. Other advantages include running cooler
and much easier to prime from an empty tank. On many fuel injected
set-ups even when the pump is mounted externaly there is what is
called a transfer pump in the tank, which is a low pressure pump, to
move the fuel out to the high pressure pump. Now you hve 2 pumps to go
bad! I think the Delorean system is simpler. If kept clean and if
deteriorated parts are replaced when required it is a VERY reliable
system. In general it is best to keep the car as stock as possible so
as to be easy to fix. What happens someday when the car is sold and
the new owner tries to replace the fuel pump? Not only does he not
know where to get another like he has but if he orders from a "D"
vender he gets something he won't recognize! This is just one reason a
modified car may be worth less than an origional, stock car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, deloreanernst@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 2/4/2002 12:00:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> DMCVegas@xxxx writes:
>
>
> > Was the mounting of the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank to save
> > space, or was it a safety concern? In other words, if the pump
> > was mounted outside of the tank, is there a possibility that it
> > could be punctured, and the electrical connections exposed?
> >
>
> I know some pickups have the pump in the tank, too. You have to
drop the
> entire gas tank to work on it. The DeLorean fuel pump arrangement
wins hands
> down over that for ease of access. :)
> Wayne A. Ernst
> 11174
> DMCTech Group
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 10:18:10 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: rust in the engine?
hey everyone,
i've had my fuel system, intake manifold, waterpump, and y-pipe removed from
my car since november, where it is sitting in a storage garage. i put duct
tape over the ports for the intake manifold, closed the engine covers, and
let it be while i have been waiting for parts and fuel system cleaning.
anyway, just the other day i was over there and took a look at some things in
order to decide what parts i need to order and i looked inside the
passenger-side hole where the Y-pipe connects to and was puzzled to see a
corner of something caked in rust down there! if you look down the hole, i
can see coolant about an inch down (of course) and i can see the corner of
something (the cylinder head?) covered in orange/brown rust. i don't
remember it being like that before! i thought this was an aluminum engine?
my parts are coming this week so i can put everything back together again,
and now i'm worried that something has been rotting in my engine while i have
it all exposed.
what should i do? should i put it all back together, put antifreeze in and
load it up with some rust dissolving coolant treatment, then flush the system
after a couple weeks? or should i just pretend i didn't see it?
also, the driver's side is a little rusty but not as bad.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 17:34:03 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: trailing arm information and other potential failures
James - The best way to get the full story on most technical issues
with the DeLorean, including the trailing arm bolt issue, is to go to
the technical library at http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm and click
on the desired subject. I wrote a series of pieces on the trailing
arm bolts in the section entitled "Trailing Arm Bolt - Engineering"
within the "Suspension and Steering" section. As you will see, there
is a great deal of information available through this area. If you
read these articles, and still have specific questions, you can post
them to the List, or email me or one of the experts that frequent the
List. I hope that this helps.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxx> wrote:
> i hear much talk of this trailing arm bolt problem, can someone give
me an overview of this...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:07:28 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: stubborn lock
Wayne,
You said:
"When unlocking on the passenger side, I don't hear any
corresponding click on the driver side".
You probably have a weak or defective solenoid in the drivers door. Prior to
replacement you may want to do a voltage check at the solenoid electrical
connection to isolate the problem to the solenoid.
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: <deloreanernst@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 2:47 AM
Subject: [DML] stubborn lock
> Today when I turned my driver side key it worked stiffly in the clockwise
> direction. It will click as if unlocked, but it's not. If I hold the key
in
> the turned position, and simultaneously lift the door handle, it's still
> locked. Then if I release the key, it springs back to center position,
> accompanied by a locking sound, as if relocking itself. Turning to lock
then
> relock won't help. It's done this before but somehow corrects itself. I
do
> have Lockzilla. Once before I opened it by reaching across from the
> passenger side. When unlocking on the passenger side, I don't hear any
> corresponding click on the driver side. Any ideas on a cure?
> -Wayne
> 11174
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:27:38 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Cell Question.
Walt said:
"The biggest reason for the pump being mounted in the tank is that all
electric fuel pumps in general are better at pushing fuel than sucking it.
In fact, they suck so badly [sic] that they try to get them as close to the
bottom of the tank as possible."
Walt is correct. In several other versions (Volvo, etc.) of the Bosch
K-Jetronic fuel system where the pump is mounted outside of the tank an
additional fuel pump (primer pump) is mounted inside the tank to assist fuel
delivery to the main fuel pump.
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Cell Question.
> > Was the mounting of the fuel pump inside of the fuel tank to save
> > space, or was it a safety concern? In other words, if the pump
> > was mounted outside of the tank, is there a possibility that it
> > could be punctured, and the electrical connections exposed?
>
> The biggest reason for the pump being mounted in the tank is that all
> electric fuel pumps in general are better at pushing fuel than sucking it.
> In fact, they suck so badly [sic] that they try to get them as close to
the
> bottom of the tank as possible.
>
> There is another list member, Andrei Cular, who mounted his fuel pump
> outside of the tank. I think his goal was to save on buying a new fuel
pump
> boot, so he made his own that was basically a cap. I haven't heard him
give
> any complaints with this arrangement. So perhaps these fuel pumps suck
well
> [sic] after all.
>
> I doubt that locating the fuel pump in the tank has anything to do with
> safety or saving space. My biggest concern with what Andrei did is that I
> question whether or not a Bosch fuel pump can reliably suck that good [sic
> again!]. I have looked through a lot of high performance automotive
> catalogues and have yet to see anything that can begin to replace the pump
> used in the DeLorean who's Bosch continuous injection requires fuel
> pressures in the range of 72-81 psi. As fuel systems go, that is
extremely
> high. As a comparison, the Bosch intermittent injection requires 31-40
psi,
> domestic throttle-body injection uses 10-11 psi, and typical carburetor
> systems use 1-2 psi.
>
> For what it's worth, my humble opinion is to just use the OEM setup with
all
> it's quirks. But if you can come up with something that makes less noise
> and doesn't require an exotic fuel suction hose, then I would like to see
> that.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:36:30 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Simple questions
Martin,
You said:
"I hear the engine design in general is not very good, but that's
what I heard about Volvos with that engine."
The PRV-6 used in the 79 and early 81 Volvo's had a problem with premature
cam shaft wear (soft cams). This was the reason for negative rumors, that
exist till today, concerning reliability. I have first hand knowledge of
this
situation when my 1980 Volvo 260 GLE prematurely retired at 86 k miles due
to cam shaft failure.
Several months prior to the manufacture of the DeLorean version of the
PRV-6's, the soft cams were replaced with hardened upgrades. This single
improvement made the PRV-6 the long lasting reliable engine it is today.
Quality control at the Renault engine manufacturing plant was superb.
In 17 years of keeping records concerning component failure rates for the
DeLorean, the engine including all of its *individual components, accounts
for less than 1% of all component failures.
In addition to the many DeLorean's with 150 k miles plus, our #3370 DeLorean
has clocked over 260 k trouble free miles.
*does not include fuel injection parts.
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Pajak" <martin@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 5:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Simple questions
> Hi,
>
> I've always loved the DeLorean and I interested in picking one up.
> I went through a lot of sites but none talked about major problems with
the
> cars.
> I hear the engine design in general is not very good, but that's what I
> heard about Volvos with that engine.
> I am a hands on guy and would probably be doing most of the maintenance
and
> repairs (or upgrades) myself.
> Just wondering what are the most common problems with cars both with
> maintenance and general engineering faults.
>
> As an aside I always thought the 1982 Audi coupe's front end looked very
> simular to the DeLorean.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
Pajak
>
> http://www.quattro.ca
>
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