To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 26 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Idler pully bearings
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Oil Leak
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. ETDOC meet THIS weekend! latest updates
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
4. windows
From: "stephane.france" <fchenail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: lowered front end and jacking?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
10. RE: Another DeLorean in a movie..
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Yokohama AVS Intermediates
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: DeLorean Decals
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Is there an easy alternator model swap?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Brakes
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Re: Idler pully bearings
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
16. Re: DMC Houston radio Bracket Question (and others...)
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Drive Axles thunking?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
20. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Re: Delorean Speedo
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Oil Leak
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Gauges
From: "comet4055" <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
25. SS Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
26. Re: RE: 140 mph speedo
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:02:55 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idler pully bearings
The generic designation is 6202. There are many different variations
in shielding, lubrication, running temps etc. Just try not to get
anything made in China. Should be about $3 apiece in small quantities.
Try to press in gently, don't use a hammer. Better to use some large
sockets and a vise. BTW the belt can be run with only 1 idler pulley
in an emergency, I think just the upper one. Replace both bearings
though and there is an "O" ring behind one of the bearings that should
also be changed when removed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> Just pulled my air cond belt lower idler pulley. The bearing is
shot. It
> measures 35mmx15mmx11mm wide. Does anyone have a part number that I
can pick
> up at my local parts store? I know I can get it at my local bearing
> distributor but it's a drive..
> Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:17:06 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
The first place to look if it is engine oil is the oil sender for the
oil LIGHT on the left rear of the motor. The sender is notorious for
developing a leak. It can be resealed. Just remove it, clean thoughly
and reassemble with silicone sealer (sensorsafe of course!) Or you can
replace it. When it leaks it runs down onto the rail around the
crankcase and can then appear to be leaking from somewhere else. The
wire that goes to it also gets burnt so you may have to replace a
piece of it. If the trans is leaking determine if it is gear oil or
trans fluid. MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE FINAL DRIVE LEVEL! It is separate
from the trans in automatics, not like 5-speeds where the trans oil
and final drive oil are the same. You must remove the level plug on
the left side and stick your finger in to make sure the level is no
lower than 1/4 from the edge. Do not overfill and use #80-90 gear oil.
If it is trans fluid leaking you must examine the transmission
externally to try to isolate the source. A common source is the
gearshift cable but any external seal can leak. Do not overfill as
that can create leaks. Refer to G:04:02 for the proper procedure for
checking auto trans fluid level.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
> In the course of its long winter's rest, my D has developed a
> non-trivial oil leak. This was completely out of the blue--the
engine
> didn't leak at all, then one day there were puddles on the floor.
>
> It appears to be leaking from between the the engine and the
(automatic)
> transmission. Do I assume correctly that this is likely the main
seal?
> If so, how big a job is it to repair, and what is the easiest
procedure?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 20:57:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ETDOC meet THIS weekend! latest updates
Hey group-
Here are the plans so far for the schedule of the ETDOC event. Keep in mind...as always- things can change and I will do my best to keep everyone posted.
Saturday Afternoon- 1PM--Meet at AutoDyno for the Dyno runs on the DeLoreans. I still have openings for a few more cars..so you have to let me know if you are interested in doing this. Directions to the first meeting place are as follows: Take I-40 into Knoxville and take the Lovell Road exit 374 which is in West Knoxville area. Take the exit and head North to the first light at Lexington Dr. and turn right (it is the only way you may turn)..follow that road for almost a mile and on the right you will see AutoDyno/Air Cooled Classics ( a bunch of Porsches will be sitting around). It is the last business on the right on that road, so you cannot miss it (DeLoreans sitting there will be a clue, too).
After we finish the Dyno runs the group there will head towards Gatlinburg to meet with the rest of the folk that didn't join in on the Dyno runs or couldn't make it there early enough--or for whatever other reason. At 5PM we will meet in the hotel lobby to all get some food and have our fun.
The Hotel- We are staying at the Park Vista Resort in Gatlinburg (www.parkvista.com). To get there..off of I-40 take the 407 exit towards Gatlinburg and just follow the signs/traffic...once in Gatlinburg city limits, take traffic light 8 to the left and follow the signs to the Resort. It is the most recognizable place in Gatlinburg sitting on the side of a mountain. As I have mentioned before..when calling, be sure to mention you are with the DeLorean group for the special rate.
As always..be sure to bring your swim wear..because the hotel has an awesome pool and hot tub all inside this huge glass enclosed room! Whoever is interested can go swimming after we eat...of course we will wait at least 30 minutes before going in..isn't that the rule?? If swimming isn't your thing..Gatlinburg can be explored by those of you that have never been there before. There are night clubs, restaurants and shopping abound. You can also explore the Aquarium, or any of the other Ripley's attractions.
Sunday- We will rise and have breakfast at the hotel breakfast buffet whenever we get up and ready ;)...but..the trek for the Dragon will leave at or around 10:30am...so if you don't plan on arriving until that morning...that is the time we will leave. I know that some of you mentioned not being able to arrive until Sunday morning. Be at the hotel Parking lot and ready around that time so that we have plenty of time get on the road. As Sean has mentioned..be sure to have a FULL tank of gas in the car..and as Darren has mentioned- 2 way radios come in handy.
As everyone has mentioned in previous posts...we tend to have a fun time at our meets...they are not typical by any means. ;) Can't wait until Saturday! I will give my cell phone number in closing so that if anyone is stuck in traffic or needs directions..they can call me for help. I encourage all to attend...so far I have attendees from NC, SC, TN, VA, OH, and PERHAPS GA.
Best Regards-
Aaron Posey
ETDOC www.etdoc.com
865 310 2228
cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:22:10 -0500
From: "stephane.france" <fchenail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: windows
i well like to know
if y ken put real windows on a delorean from stephane
fchenail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 00:19:57 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
Andy, Watch out when you pull up to a curb. You might knock off the bolts
sticking down on the a/c radiator. My car at standard height already owns
several curbs.I'm thinking about putting some cat whiskers on the front some
way.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:23:11 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
To get into tight areas with my 3 ton floor jack I sometimes take
that white (or whatever color that's on your jack) "cup" like
portion off it. The part that the car sits on while jacking up.
Anyway mine is removable and I put a peice of wood in it's place.
Gives a bit more clearence.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> hey all,
>
> i'm contemplating lowering my front end with PJ Grady's front
spring set. i
> like the rear but i would love to drop the front and get rid of
that
> unsightly wheel space. however, i am afraid of the troubles i
will find with
> jacking the car up if i do so.
>
> how do those of you who have your car lowered jack up the front
end? i want
> to know if there are any floor jacks available that will fit under
there so i
> can jack it from the front crossmember behind the crumple
extension. i
> already know the tricks with driving it up on 2x4's, but what if i
am in my
> garage and the car won't run and i need to get it jacked up? what
do you do?
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 07:28:12 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: lowered front end and jacking?
I have to raise one corner with the factory jack, then slide the floor jack
in from the front (with a piece of wood on top to avoid metal on epoxy) and
under the frame to finish raising it up. Or, drive in on top of some wood
(mini-ramp).
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 5:13 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] lowered front end and jacking?
hey all,
i'm contemplating lowering my front end with PJ Grady's front spring set. i
like the rear but i would love to drop the front and get rid of that
unsightly wheel space. however, i am afraid of the troubles i will find
with
jacking the car up if i do so.
how do those of you who have your car lowered jack up the front end? i want
to know if there are any floor jacks available that will fit under there so
i
can jack it from the front crossmember behind the crumple extension. i
already know the tricks with driving it up on 2x4's, but what if i am in my
garage and the car won't run and i need to get it jacked up? what do you
do?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 06:40:03 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
Andy - My car (Winged1) is lower than most I've seen, and I am able
to just slide a Craftsman floor "trolley" jack under the front
jacking points. I usually have to lift just a little using my knee
against the wheel arch, or a 2 X 4 lever between the floor and the
underbody, while sliding the trolley jack into position. That gets
me another inch or so to fit the jack. I don't know if I am just
misunderstanding you, but it sounds like you jack on the frame,
rather than the designed jacking points on the fiberglass underbody.
I personally wouldn't recommend that. I am assuming that the metal
jacking pads are securely installed on the underbody. Jacking on the
frame can cause flexing of the sheet metal webs, and cracking of the
epoxy, unless you hit a hard spot and provide protection between the
jack and the frame. If you're using the proper jacking points,
please ignore the preceeding lecture.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> how do those of you who have your car lowered jack up the front
end? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:31:41 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
In a message dated 3/6/02 1:23:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dmcburn75@xxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I read in the back issues that Rob Grady
charges $500 a panel to re-brush. Is that accurate? >>
Dan,
He doesn't charge by the panel, its all done by the hourly labor it takes
to do it. I suggest that instead of asking the list what a vendor will
charge or do, you should just go directly to the source and ask, this gets
rid of here say and rumours. Call Rob up and ask....tech info # 631-589-6224
parts ordering # 800-350-7429.
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:48:53 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Another DeLorean in a movie..
I just took another look at the movie, it is a BTTF car. It had all of the external time machine stuff on it. That photo you sent is not the complete frame.
Here is a complete shot, although kinda fuzzy.
http://www.geocities.com/malevy_nj/BFL_DeLorean.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 6:29 PM
To: DMC News (E-mail)
Subject: Re: [DML] Another DeLorean in a movie..
I found a picture of this:
http://abynes.girlskickbutt.com/multimedia/pics/bfl_gallery/bfl_site_04.jpg
It doesn't look like it's the actual BTTF car, notice that there's no
cable wraps along the fender, etc. The plot of the movie seems to be about
kids going to Hollywood to take over a movie studio or something (ala Jay
and Silent Bob Strike Back). So I'm guessing that they just borrowed a
DeLorean so the kids could say "Hey look, it's the Time Machine!"
-Christian
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 14:44:03 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Yokohama AVS Intermediates
I just tried ordering some 235 AVS's this past weekend from
Tirerack. Got a call yesterday saying that they are out of stock and
out of production. This stinks. I already have mismatching tires on
my car, but the fronts are still nearly new (were new when I bought
the car) I figured I would get the AVSs put on the back, then
probably by the end of this year those would be quickly worn and the
fronts could use replacing, so I would get 4 matching tires at that
time. Right now, I opted for the Yokohama Avid S/T. Its very
inexpensive, but only T rated which really annoys me. Tirerack's
performance chart showed this tire to be the best short term value
for me. However, the smallest 14" size these tires have is 215/60
14. Oh well, we've been screwed out of an incredibly good tire,
minus the rapid treadwear problem. My order has been placed and
shipped (so dont bother telling me other ideas of getting the AVS's,
I'm too busy AND lazy right now), from here I'll just let the list
know how well these tires work if spring ever comes.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:58:32 -0000
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Decals
Not at all really,
It's actually welcome in the Arizona sun, but it's mroe of an
eyesore to me. Wayne, come on out to AZ and you can drive it to tell
for yourself. The aeorbed is all yours....:)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, deloreanernst@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 3/3/02 3:13:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> mpolans@xxxx writes:
>
>
>
> > The previous owner did "DeLorean" across the top of my windshield
in the
> > correct font. How does it look?
>
>
>
> What does it do to your visibility?
>
> Wayne
> 11174
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 00:35:25 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Is there an easy alternator model swap?
Sterve, If you will look on my web site. I sell a bolt on replacement 150 amp
alternator with a 3 year warranty, no exchange for the Delorean.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/alternators.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:38:18 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brakes
In a message dated 3/6/02 10:19:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I know the current cross reference for the front calipers is from a
> Mercury Capri. It would be interesting (although not necessary) to
> do this conversion on the D :).
>
>
What year Capri? Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 00:22:46 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Idler pully bearings
Jim and group. The new Idler pully bearings are on the front page of my site.
They are the good kind that is hard to fined. We have to order them.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 13:22:01 +0000
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston radio Bracket Question (and others...)
Robert;
The radio isn't adjustable inside of the cage for one main reason; this is
not only one of the ways the radio stays in the car but also a safety device
to deter theft. Most radios you'll find with the exception of a few
(Pioneer and Jensen both make cd/tape player combos that are designed
specifically for SUV's and will sink flush into their dashes) are going to
stick out a little. This is because dashboards in most cars are designed
around a specific type of radio. Think of it this way; of all the gm cars
for instance that you've seen, how many of them have the same large faced,
square, delco radio in them? It may have a few different features on the
front, but for the most part the dimensions are the same. After market
stereos on the other hand are a more acceptable size to fit in small DIN
style sockets by themselves or larger one with an adapter kit, more of a
generic style if you will. There is one trick you may try, but email me
privately at sharkywtrs AT msn.com and I'll fill you in on it, I don't want
to bog down the list anymore than my longwinded self has already.
Scott
16738
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:04:24 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Drive Axles thunking?
Couple of things to check for: After removing the inner drive shafts
do the carriers come off the shaft itself? If so then you have a
damage/missing snap ring, it's what holds the carriers onto the
shaft and that is what was casuing the inner drive shaft to move
around. Also I remember reading somewhere about the outer drive
shafts (mounted on the hub carriers) making a clunking noise and
there was a fix for it. If someone has the link to that website that
describes it please post it here.
If you are going to bring the drive shafts to be cleaned and repaked
to someone else have them inspect the inner parts of the drive
shafts (bearing, etc..) to make sure you didn't cause any damage to
them while running the car without the boots. Chances are you might
be fine if you drove 3k miles since the boot only keeps dirt and
water out and the greese is pushed into the breaings.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> HI,
> Every time I take a corner in my car I get one "clunk" coming
from the
> rear of the car. I checked the trailing arm bolts and they were
tight with
> no shims missing etc. so I ruled that out.
> Another member on the DML (thanks Jim) told me to check out my
axles as
> they can cause the clunking noise I am describing. I jacked the
car up to
> find that one of the CV boots was missing and 2 others were torn
pretty good.
> When you grab on to them they move back and forth and make the
clunking
> sound which I am probably hearing while turning.
> Today I removed the axles as I am going bring them in to be
cleaned and
> repacked. Should I just pack them up with grease or did I most
likely cause
> other damage by running it W/out the CV boot?(at the most the boot
was
> missing for 3k miles as I checked it at the last oil change and it
was OK) By
> the way this car is an automatic.
>
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:40:05 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
Dan D. had stripped his car of paint and re-brushed his panels (very
nicely I might add). He used a air powered rotory type tool that had
a sandpaper flap on it.
I think, not sure, but I think that Rob charges like $1000.00 to
rebrush the entire car, but I could be wrong or the price could have
gone up. The only way to get an accurate price is to call him
yourself and ask :). But whatever the price is I've seen his work
(only live 30 minutes away from his shop) and it's outstanding, well
worth it.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcburn75" <dmcburn75@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone had experience with re brushing the panels on thier car,
> specifically after removing paint. I've heard that at the factory
the
> panels were brushed by simply using sandpaper. What are some
methods
> anyone is familiar with? I read in the back issues that Rob Grady
> charges $500 a panel to re-brush. Is that accurate? Thanks in
advance.
> -Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:55:56 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re brushing stainless steel panels
A few weeks back a came across a site while looking for D stuff where a guy
bought a tool designed for this purpose. It looks like a small electric side
grinder (but rotated a spool instead of a flat disc) with a flapper type
sandpaper wheel on it. He had a link to the vendor but I didn't bookmark it.
However, they are used in the sink and laboratory manu./refirbishing
industry. Try looking there.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 07:02:28 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
Andy:
I have PJ Grady's front lowered springs.
To get the floor jack under the front? Very easy. Just have somebody lift
the front slightly by either side of the front wheel fender, then slide the
floor jack into place, then have the person release the fender.
There will be enough space after lifting the DeLorean to slide a standard
floor jack underneath the front frame. It is that simple.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 06:46:18 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Speedo
If you want a custom D speedo, Hollywood Speedometer located in N.
Hollywood, CA will build what ever you want. They custom silk screen
and calibrate the speedo to your specs.
A 140 speed would probably cost about $350. I had my BTTF speedo done
this way and they did a great job.
BOB
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:35:45 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
In a message dated 3/5/02 10:30:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Is there enough room in
> the bulb socket for two resistors and an LED?
>
>
Only if you can work with miniture resistors (IMHO) and then only if they
have the wattage rating needed. I think anything is doabel and you sound
capiable but this space is very restricting. How about a clever layout on a
"daughter card" mounted to or attached to the back of the Instrument cluster?
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:34:52 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
If it's the main seal then it will require the removal of the
transmission. Once it's off then you'll be able to remove the rear
plate seal (P/N 102023) it's installed in. The plate is held by 5
bolts. After taking it off you can then press out the old main seal
and press a new one in (P/N 102024). You will also need a new rear
plate seal gasket (P/N 102022).
Hardest part is getting to the damn thing. Changing it is cake.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
> In the course of its long winter's rest, my D has developed a
> non-trivial oil leak. This was completely out of the blue--the
engine
> didn't leak at all, then one day there were puddles on the floor.
>
> It appears to be leaking from between the the engine and the
(automatic)
> transmission. Do I assume correctly that this is likely the main
seal?
> If so, how big a job is it to repair, and what is the easiest
procedure?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 05:25:22 -0000
From: "comet4055" <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gauges
I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the factory gauges with
reverse indiglo or something similar along those lines. I realize
there wouldn't be any exact match, but these types of gauges are
available for other makes and models, so I am wondering if any one
has found a car will a similar gauge design as the D. (these are the
white guages during the day, but at night the numbers and such are a
deep blue, with the needles being a really vibrant red)
Thanks for your time
Trevor Johnson
# 4055
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 11:48:48 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: SS Question.
I like to pride myself on knowing everything I can about my
DeLorean, but lately I've had a few questions about the Stainless
Steel body. What exactly is "Stainless Steel Sealer"? In the
Documents section of the DeLorean FAQ, a letter sent to the
dealers reccomends using a neutral soap when washing the
cars to avoid washing the sealer off. And I've seen on DMC
Houstons site that the Car Care Kit they sell includes a bottle of
sealer.
What exactly is this stuff supposed to do? Does it prevent
mildew & calcium deposits from collecting in the grain? If so, it's
something that my car really needs!
As usual, thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 26
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:17:26 -0500 (EST)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: 140 mph speedo
Hello,
Now that you guys brought up the subject of spedos, in my car i have an 170mph spedo. Is this orgional? I have only seen models with 85mph, and 140mph. It makes my car look cool, even though i could never get close to the maximum speed. I just think it is neat that it is larger than most new sports cars.
- Shain
#10140
----- In Response To -----
To my understanding, they were a European item and limited to that market
only. I had two, one is in my car, the other traded for a car part, but
available I believe, I'll forward you the email is interested. They were
not 're-calibrated' as some vendors now do with the 160 MPH. Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx [mailto:DHughes030@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 5:21 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] 140 mph speedo
Where can I find the 140 mph speedo mask mentioned in the "zine" article?
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
-----------------------------------
WSMMail Brought to you by Adgrafix!
http://www.adgrafix.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
