Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 4 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Cold Galvanizing From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 3. Re: tin can sound From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 4. Used Auto Transmission value? From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 19:47:28 -0700 From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Cold Galvanizing I will attest to the effectiveness of this product. The only caveat is that you need to apply it to clean metal. It is tolerant of residual rust but the old epoxy must be removed. I stabilized an old Bug Eye Sprite throughout the frame by building a spray tip on the end of a flexible tube and inserting it into all the frame tubes that were rusting from the inside out. 15 years later not a sign of rust and these were areas where no prep (and no old paint) was present and rust was having a field day. I also use it on boat trailers that are exposed to salt water and have excellent results. WW Grainger sells a similar product: Stock # 5W180 in a spray can for $7.70/can. www.grainger.com Donald L. Ekhoff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Capt'n Mike" <allsun@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 2:10 PM Subject: [DML] Cold Galvanizing > As a manufacturer of large equipment for the US Navy I can testify to the > effectiveness of Cold Galvanizing. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 03:05:06 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator To verify the accumulater is the cause of the hard hot start after trying to restart hot switch the plugs on the control pressure regulater with the cold start valve. If it starts right up shut it off immediatly and replace the plugs. This verifies that the system is not holding rest pressure and can be caused by a bad accumulater or a bad or missing check valve on the fuel pump. Remove the return line to the accumulater and if fuel is comming out of the accumulater from the return hose the accumulater is bad. Caution the shop doing the work that they must take EXTREME care not to kink or twist the fuel lines, doing so will require lifting the body from the frame to replace them! David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, orentha@xxxx wrote: > I do have a hot start problem. > Basically my car won't start when the engine is warm. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 03:11:54 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: tin can sound The "tin can sound" might also be the idler bearings for the a/c belt or less likely a bad water pump, usually they leak before the bearings go in them though. Another remote possability is that one of the covers by the flywheel got bent and is hitting the flywheel or torque converter. The best way to find the source of the noise is to jack up the car safely and have someone run it while you search underneath. The timming could be way off or maybe the octane is very low, you are supposed to put 91 octane in. (See owner's manual for octane requirements) David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, delorean502@xxxx wrote: > When I accelarate and my RPMs get around 2500 to 3500, my engine > sounds like a tin can with rocks in it. I don't notice any > performace difference, but the sound makes me not want to rev up very > high. Any ideas before I start to poke and prod around? > > Erik ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 11:13:15 +0800 From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Used Auto Transmission value? Hi DMLers, Anyone have any ideas on the value of a DMC automatic transmission (28k miles, with service records, from a front-end hit car). Whats a fair price? Regards, IAN ****************** ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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