Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Automatic transmission
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Delorean Limo / Coyote
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. galvanizing D frame?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
5. tin can sound
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
6. D for sale
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
7. Stuck in gears is slave
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Error in last post.
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
11. Re: tin can sound
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
12. Cold Galvanizing
From: "Capt'n Mike" <allsun@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Delorean Limo / Coyote
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
14. : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
15. Re: 1983 DeLorean 4-door
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: re no rough idle
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: Hunting at startup
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Temperature Gauge sender
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. okay...what are the actual figures...
From: petleech@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Delorean Limo / Coyote
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
25. Re: galvanizing D frame?
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 15:43:55 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission
Arne,
I found it! But not in the archives. I found it using a search utility on
my own hard drive. I suppose it won't hurt to have the whole thing re-posed
to the archives again -- it is very valuable advice in my opinion.
Also about starting in second gear. Yep, I stand corrected. I was
remembering what my old (bad) GC did with a blown cap. With both solenoids
off, you are in 3rd gear.
Here's the old post:
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Auto trans gov. problems...
<snip>
>In diagnosing this kind of problem, it is essential to first
>determine whether the governor is at fault or whether you have a
>mechanical problem. Fortunately this is easy to do. You need to build
>yourself a little test rig that lets you see (while you drive) what
>the governor is telling the transmission. This has been covered in
>the list in the past (check the archives), but here's the general
>idea:
>
>1) Find the round black terminal block where the computer governor
>connects to the solenoid wires. It is in the engine compartment on
>the left firewall. Looks like some kind of diagnostic connector, but
>is really just a set of terminals. There are three wires going
>through this connector: One each for the two shift solenoids and a
>common. The center terminal is common. There are also two unused
>terminals. If we number the five terminals clockwise from 1 to 5,
>what we want to monitor is the potential between terminals 2 and 3
>and between 3 and 4. If I remember correctly, the common (terminal
>3) signal is +12V, and terminals 2 and 4 get pulled to ground by the
>governor to activate the respective solenoids. In any event, this can
>readily be determined with a test light or voltmeter. When the car
>is in neutral or low gear, you should read a 12V potential between 2
>and 3 and also between 4 and 3. The trick is to be able to watch how
>this changes when the transmission is in action.
>
>2) To accomplish this, run a 3-wire cable from this connector into
>the passenger compartment (4-wire telephone cable from Radio Shack is
>good for this). Connect the three wires to terminals 2, 3, and 4. Run
>the wire up your steering column so it comes out between the dash and
>the column.
>
>3) Obtain 2 LEDs (Radio Shack again) one red and one green. You also
>need two 1500 ohm (brown green red stripes) resistors. Connect a
>resistor in series with the other end of the wires coming from
>terminals 2 and 4. Connect the other side of the resistors to the
>negative (unmarked) sides of the LEDs. Connect the positive (marked)
>sides of the LEDs (I'm doing this from memory--hope I don't have it
>all backwards) together and also to the wire coming from the center
>(#3) terminal. You can impress your friends by neatly packaging this
>precision instrument inside a 35mm film can.
>
>4) Loosen your steering wheel adjustment clamp (you *do* know you
>have one, right?) and let the wheel drop. Position the film can
>between the steering column and the dash positioned so that you can
>see the LEDs while driving and slowly raise the wheel so that the can
>is firmly captured. Tighten the wheel in place.
>
>5) Turn on the key. Both LEDs should now be shining cheerfully
>(assuming your governor is functioning semi-correctly).
>
>6) Go for a ride. If he governor is operating correctly, the lights
>should go out one as a time, as the car shifts into second and third
>gear, respectively. In high gear, both lights should be off. When
>the vehicle downshifts, the lights should come back on in turn. It
>should now be an easy matter to decide whether your particular
>aberrant transmission behavior is due to bad advice from the governor
>or mechanical problems in the transmission itself.
>
>If you are not comfortable dealing with such highly sophisticated
>digital circuitry, please get some advice from somebody who is. I may
>have gotten all this wrong and of course accept no responsibility for
>damage to you or your vehicle.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Pete Lucas
>VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 18:29:15 -0000
From: orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: can't remove my fuel accumulator
I do have a hot start problem.
Basically my car won't start when the engine is warm. If I drive it
around, and then shut it off, and let it sit just a few minutes, it
will not start up again. If I let the engine cool down it will fire
right up with no problems.
But, I did talk to another shop, and they seemed to know about the
Delorean engine and seemed fairly knowelgable, and they said that
they would check it out and see what they could do. So I took the
car in there this morning... Hopefully they will be able to diagnose
the problem.
Jim Teston #15314
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> Why are you touching the fuel accumulater? The only reason to
replace
> it is if you are having hard hot start problems.
-------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 14:04:11 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Limo / Coyote
Just did a quick search on the internet for Delorean Limo, although
nothing too informative came up, I did find the current location of the
DeLorean Coyote:
http://www.customlimos.com/delorean.htm
Looks like you can rent it for $500 a day...
There is also a photo of a stretch limo on Kevin Abato's (DML'er) site.
I don't know if this is a authentic or doctored photo.
http://www.abato.net/web/images/dmc/mygallery.htm
FWIW, If we take the 20K rule for a exceptional quality DeLorean you can
buy 6 cars for $120,000. I would to venture to say that someone could
make you a DeLorean stretch limo for less than $120K
Ignoring the high price, and assuming that you are being honest with us,
You have got my attention for more information on this car.
Marc
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 19:39:31 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: galvanizing D frame?
Hi Chris!
Hi list!
You mentioned the trials on a galvanized frame.
What exactly means "galvanizing"? Is this...
1.) putting the frame into a relatively cold bath of chemicals, putting a
voltage between the frame and the bath and thus getting a thin coat of zinc
(or whatever) on the frame?
or
2.) putting the frame into a very hot bath of liquid zinc, thus getting a
thick coat (100µm) of zinc which is extremely rust resistant?
As I have two frames (one damaged, one rather new), I intend to test the
second method on the damaged frame. But I am very unsure if this really
makes sense, because I found not a single person so far who recommended
doing that. And I asked quit a number of people.
All of them said that this method is very critical because the frame is made
of rather thin material and could probably not withstand the great forces
which occur (because of the great heat, approx. 450°C = 842 °F).
If you have any information or know of someone who has got any information
on this subject.
PLEASE tell me about it...
bye,
Ralf
VIN10284
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 19:41:59 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: tin can sound
When I accelarate and my RPMs get around 2500 to 3500, my engine
sounds like a tin can with rocks in it. I don't notice any
performace difference, but the sound makes me not want to rev up very
high. Any ideas before I start to poke and prod around?
Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 14:49:34 -0500
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: D for sale
Hi, list!
Found this one on Yahoo auctions. (I was actually looking for an
"OUTATIME" license plate!) I have seen this DMC-12 for sale before,
several MONTHS ago, and chances are if you talk to the guy at KC Imports
he will bargain. After all, it is taking him for ever to sell it. I have
been in touch with the guy from KC Imports. He is definitely a salesman,
but you can get some useful information from him by asking direct
questions. He even has a copy of the repair bill showing some recalls
performed on the car, and also a copy of the window sticker. I may still
have them somewhere. I got them when I was thinking about buying it.
Just to note, the price then was $6000. Now he is offering it for less.
page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/49898614
Best regards,
Farrar Hudkins
89.9 WWNO
New Orleans
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 19:50:46 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Stuck in gears is slave
Hello List,
On closer inspection I have discovered that my clutch slave is
leaking fairly rapidly which is causing my stuck in gears problem.
I have ordered on should come tomorrow I hope as my car is a daily
driver.
The slave cylinder is in a fairly awkward place will this be a
lengthly task,or fairly easy?
Many Thanks Paul UKvin741
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 14:55:58 -0500
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Error in last post.
Sorry, that should have said $20,000 not $6,000. I was looking in the
wrong window. :P
- Farrar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:11:28 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
In a message dated 6/6/01 3:45:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I am sad to report I have found my grille after searching for 4 days (1hour
each) on Route 24 in NJ. I am sad because it was run over a couple of times
and it is wasted. I am, at least, glad it was not stolen. I still need a
new one, which I am not in the mood to buy but have to since the car looks
less appealing. I have no idea how it could have come loose since most of
the studs were on it. Remember to check yours so this doesn't happen to
you. Any info on any used or new grilles would be appreciated. Thanks
>>
List,
This is why I posted to the DML 2 months ago warning everyone to check
those clips that are riveted to the front fascia that hold the front grill in
place. If Joseph had taken my advice and checked those clips after he read
my post, then instead of costing him about $350.00 for a new grill and DMC
logo, it would have cost him about $23.00 for those clips and another few
dollars for the rivets. In this post I have copied and pasted the e-mail I
sent to the DML April 15th 2001. Also, Joseph it wasn't the studs on the
back of the grill that caused the grill to fly off, those mounting clips in
the front fascia rusted up so bad, that the parts of the clips that secure
the stud for the grill broke off and the grill flew off. So now besides
having to get the grill and DMC logo, you need to get those 8 clips that
secure the studs to the fascia. Lot of money to spend on something that
could have been avoided.
<<<<<Subj: [DML] Front grill mounting clips
Date: 4/15/01 9:45:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Reply-to: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hey List,
Today I installed those 8 little clips that secures the grill that has
the DMC emblem to the front fascia. I just wanted to send a post to the list
telling everyone that this is something that should be looked at on all your
cars. On my car, this grill was only held on by 2 clips, the rest had rusted
up and the retaining part of the clip broke off. I know that the clips are a
little expensive ($2.95 each for 8 of them) but if those clips let out, your
grill will go flying under your car, and in the path of the tire of the car
behind you, then $23.60 isn't that much compared to $352.14 you would need to
replace the grill (taken off DMC Houston web page). The job isn't that labor
intensive, just need to use a drill to take out the old rivets (word of
advice...make sure the drill bit you use is long, I scraped a part of the
drill against my fascia a little...good thing I am having it painted soon)
and you will need a rivet gun to install the new rivets. Just wanted to let
the list know of a possible problem they might have on their car and to pull
off the grill and see what those clips look like. I didn't do it to
mine...but maybe you can spray the new ones with some rust protectant paint
so you won't have to replace them again. Oh yeah...I will have an update on
my restoration soon, so keep checking the DML!>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 20:15:57 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
I got a set of high performance ignition wires from Pep-Boys that fit
my D. I had the guy cross them over to a Dodge Monaco. Because they
were for the PRV, they came with the rubber boots built into the top
in order to seal the spark plug wells. But that's were the good news
ends. When I purchased the cap and rotor, I had to cross them over to
a Borg Warner set. At best all I can say is the cap and rotor fit
correctly. The plastic is thinner and lighter. Overall the Borg
Warner parts have a more chinsey-er feel to them.
On another note, I used to own a '97 Accent. The PCV valve went out
on it. I replaced it with a crossover part. 2 months later, the part
failed. Went to the dealer and got a factory part. No problems ever
again.
Lessen learned: If you can find a part which is improved and has a
more efficeint function than an OEM unit, consider it. Otherwise
never crossover parts, and only buy from the vechile manufacturer.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, gus@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> You should contact your Friendly Neighborhood Delorean Parts
Vendor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 20:54:30 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tin can sound
Check to make sure the alternator isn't hitting the muffler bracket.
As the blades spin around they can flex a bit with centrifical force.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, delorean502@xxxx wrote:
> When I accelarate and my RPMs get around 2500 to 3500, my engine
> sounds like a tin can with rocks in it. I don't notice any
> performace difference, but the sound makes me not want to rev up
very
> high. Any ideas before I start to poke and prod around?
>
> Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:10:52 -0400
From: "Capt'n Mike" <allsun@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cold Galvanizing
As a manufacturer of large equipment for the US Navy I can testify to the
effectiveness of Cold Galvanizing. We have supplied Mil Spec gear for
decades using this cost saving alternative. See technical info at
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:40:00 -0000
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Limo / Coyote
> There is also a photo of a stretch limo on Kevin Abato's (DML'er)
> site. I don't know if this is a authentic or doctored photo.
>
> http://www.abato.net/web/images/dmc/mygallery.htm
This photo is a forgery. Where did that rear door come from? And
look at the two buildings in the center and right; they appear to
share identical elements, as if copied.
But the really telling clue is in the seams in the concrete under the
car. The one under the front tire and driver's door show correct
perspective, but the rear one does not. In fact, the rightmost seam
is parallel to the center one and was clearly copied from there.
There is also a URL or signature in the corner but I can't make it
out.
Still, there may be a Delorean Limo in existance; I can't imagine why
someone would go to the trouble, but then again, I've seen the 4WD
Delorean up close. People do funny things.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:41:48 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
The reason DMC went with the VIRM process was because the ERM had not
yet been tested in an automotive application for crash testing. VIRM
by Lotus on the other hand had. Another thing was the chassis. The
double Y design for the Esprit gave the car more ridgedness in the
center section (I beleive Lotus was also the entity that reccomended
this, but I can't remember why). So this too was adapted for the
DeLorean design. After these 2 major items were swtich over to Lotus,
the suspension, interior and other items followed with a snowball
effect.
On a related subject, the licence plate bezel on the back of the car
is made utilizing the ERM process. On my car the ERM is kind of
brittle and flaking. Plus it has already cracked from one of the
scews that hold it in place. Maybe there would have been another
process to it for the underbody, I don't know. But I do feel a bit
safer with the VIRM.
"Hindsight is 20/20" is an old saying. If any one statement could sum
up DeLorean Motor Company, this would be it. Without ERM DMC may
never have had a unique enough concept to pitch to investors. But
without VIRM who knows if the DMC-12 could have passed crash testing,
or may have had production problems. In either case what JZD, DMC, or
anyone else could have done will always be debatable. IMO, CTC should
have licenced out the ERM process to other companies and taken a
percentage. That along with decreased spending on the DMC-80 and
Logan Mfg, this could have generated enough captiol to keep the
company afloat. Or better yet maybe even develop DMC's own credit
corporation to finance customer vehicle purchases and leases (the
asset holdings alone for vehicles would have made the company profile
wealthier). But like with everything else, who knows...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "CBL302" <CBL302@xxxx> wrote:
>
> : "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx> Wrote:
<SNIP>
Stuck with his original plans with the ERM process(Elastic Reservoir
Molding)Developed by Composite Technology Corporation(another
Delorean Company),NOW that would have been a major breakthru in
Frame/body design/engineering.
<SNIP>
> Claude
> 000570
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 23:15:57 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1983 DeLorean 4-door
There was a photo as you describe floating around some time ago, but it was a
photoshop job by Shannon Yocom (very good too)
Martin
dinopremo@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I have stumbled across something interesting...
>
> a 1983 DeLorean 4-door, stretched limousine.
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:39:49 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
John,
You said:
"The ignition coil will also breakdown due to heat after a while."
I'm not sure if you are referring to the ignition coil or impulse coil, in either case both components have an extremely low failure rate.
My comments are made only to avoid confusion or miss-information concerning the failure rates of certain DeLorean parts. Your comment may lead some readers to think that these components fail on a regular basis.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Please help- My Delorean won't start...
Jeff, I would jump #30 and #87 on the RPM relay to make sure the fuel
pump is giving gas to the system. If it is pumping gas, then that may
eliminate a defective fuel pump. If the pump doesn't run after
jumping the wires then defective pump. There is a pulse coil in the
distributor that accuates the RPM relay. If the coil goes, which they
do, then it will show this kind of symptom.The ignition coil will
also breakdown due to heat after a while
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:48:51 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: re no rough idle
David,
You said:
"A noisy mode switch can be a major vacuum leak."
A defective mode switch may leak vacuum, but not enough to drastically effect engine operation.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
to the modulater! A noisy mode switch can be a major vacuum leak. Also
make sure that the idle motor is controlling the idle, you can test
this by pulling off the plug to the idle
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:06:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
Gus is absolutely correct,
I believe I published one of the first DeLorean parts crossover list back in 1986, I distributed copies to my customers and the local DeLorean club members. Shortly afterwards I started receiving calls where owners said: "I used the part number from your list, purchased the part from my local auto parts store tried to install the part and it doesn't fit.
After some research and several personal experiences I discovered that the specifications for many parts change on a regular basis.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 12:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Ignition tune-up parts (was: bosch)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok, so I want to go to my local parts store Auto Zone and get
> a cap rotor, plugs, and plug wires.
> What is the Bosch part numbers for the Cap, rotor, plug wires...
You should contact your Friendly Neighborhood Delorean Parts Vendor.
I checked usadmc.com and they have the rotor/cap for about $50, and
the wires for about $100. I doubt AutoZone could beat that price
substantially and will be of ZERO assistance with the specifics of
your DMC.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:18:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
Claude,
You can see a photo of the experimental stainless chassis on page 106 of Stainless Steel Illusion.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: CBL302
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 12:02 AM
Subject: [DML] : Re: A one off factory Delorean W/a SS frame (Was Delorean galvanized frames/
Also on the subject of frames,did any of the factory prototypes have a Stainless Steel frame,under them,I remember reading a article that James Espey wrote
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 17:27:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
The fascia grill was one of the last items attached to the car during final assembly. Cars were routinely moved and tested without the fascia grill attached.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: CBL302
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 10:45 PM
Subject: [DML] The case of the missing grilles (was Missing Grilles)
DMC Joe wrote:
Actually it may be more common than you think,I have a tape of a old show from the early eighty's of a show called PM Magazine,in which they do a (really nice) story about the Delorean and the Factory shutdown,in that show,they show a New Delorean going around the FACTORY test track on it's maiden run,and THE GRILL is already missing/flew off/stolen.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:40:06 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hunting at startup
Les,
If you refer to D:04:10 of the DeLorean Workshop Manual you will see the "action circle" of the Lambda Control System. The constant idle speed system reacts to this cycle and varies the idle speed in direct proportion to the change in air/fuel mixture.
Under ideal conditions (all systems operating to factory specification) the idle speed will oscillate during warm up. No oscillation during warm up is an indication that something is not at "spec".
Here is my personal recommendation concerning this subject. The CIS (constant injection system) used in the DeLorean fuel injection system is fairly simple with a minimum of components and electric's. The disadvantage with this system is that there is little tolerance for defective components, electrical wiring and connection problems, or miss adjustments. Only experienced service personal, familiar with the DeLorean fuel injection system, should attempt to adjust the system to factory specification.
As in Les's situation, if your DeLorean starts up easily accelerates smoothly and has good gas mileage you should probably leave it as is.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Huckins
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 9:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Hunting at startup
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 23:47:52
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Temperature Gauge sender
I had a problem with my temp guage too. I traced the problem ti the pin
connectors in the front righthand side of the engine compartment. the female
side of the connector was spred open so it wasn't making contact. If you
haven't allready you might want to try that first. It is the lower white
plug farthest foreward. Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: "DMC Newsgroup" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Temperature Gauge sender
>Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 11:15:34 -0400
>
>I've got a situation with my '83 in which the temperature gauge does not
>work. Because of this, it seems a good idea to check out the temperature
>sending unit. Unfortunately I've been unable to determine where this device
>is located.
>
>I'd really
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 21:36:09 EDT
From: petleech@xxxxxxx
Subject: okay...what are the actual figures...
I've heard a lot about performance upgrades for the DeLorean each of them
promising more go for the show of the DeLorean. So my question is what kind
of figures are we getting out of the variable performance mods, things like
torque, 0-60, top speeds, horsepower. I know one of the Volvo owners I spoke
to has had 508lb/ft of torque out of the b28F block, is it feasible that the
same can be accomplished with enough effort and money on a DeLorean? He says
he's running around 16psi of boost i think, what is the max "safe" for the
DeLorean, what are useable boost numbers, and what sort of boost could you
occasionaly go up to. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 21:56:52 EDT
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Limo / Coyote
I have a picture of the computer mock up DeLorean Limo on my unusual
DeLoreans page. Also a pic of the DeLorean Monster truck and some other
unique DeLoreans for anyone interested. Heres the URL to my site then click
on the Unique DeLoreans link
http://hometown.aol.com/dmc3360/main.html
Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360
<<There was a photo as you describe floating around some time ago, but it was
a
photoshop job by Shannon Yocom (very good too)
Martin>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 19:22:18 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: galvanizing D frame?
I have had a little experience with the hot dip process as I built the sub
frames for the Alaskan Pipeline Buildings. They were 3" and 4" steel
channel and 10 ft by 14 to 16 foot long. They were therefore about the same
size and the dip tank was ~ 20 ft long by 12 ft wide by 10 ft deep filled
60% full. The process is fairly quick. If there is paint or epoxy to
remove it will take a little longer and I do not know if they would tolerate
all the epoxy on a DeLorean frame. The burnt off mat'l floats on the top of
the tank and can be skimmed off along with the oxide layer of metal that
invariably forms.
Upon removal of the frame the operator will typically intentionally swing
the frame into the side of the tank to shake off as much excess metal
including slag and drips. This can leave a considerable dent as the frame
is soft and at temperature when it is done. Also there will be some thermal
shock and probable distortion. Care allowing it to come up and down in
temperature without thermal shock would help this. Also there MUST be total
drainage with holes a minimum of 1" or huge and heavy pools will remain.
Clean drainage is a must and will minimize the operators need to bang the
frame. A hotter dip tanks yields better drainage and nicer parts. A cold
tank can leave really nasty drips and sludge. Look at other large parts
being run for insight as to whether you want your frame to look the same
way.
Hope this helps.
Donald L. Ekhoff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
To: <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 10:39 AM
Subject: [DML] galvanizing D frame?
> Hi Chris!
> Hi list!
>
>
> You mentioned the trials on a galvanized frame.
> What exactly means "galvanizing"? Is this...
>
> 1.) putting the frame into a relatively cold bath of chemicals, putting a
> voltage between the frame and the bath and thus getting a thin coat of
zinc
> (or whatever) on the frame?
>
> or
>
> 2.) putting the frame into a very hot bath of liquid zinc, thus getting a
> thick coat (100µm) of zinc which is extremely rust resistant?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN