Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Yahoo down last night
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Luggage area re-paint
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Nose Bra
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. High RPM when hot
From: debruin@xxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Show on Speedvision
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Alternators
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Question On Cruise Control Again
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Speedo
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: mirror switch followup
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. temp guage
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. windshield washer pump
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
12. Re: mirror switch completed
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Re: Warm-up Regulator?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: CAMS
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Lee's DeLorean Kits
From: Joe Fedeli <fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: High RPM when hot
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
17. 5th gear grind
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: High RPM when hot
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
19. Re: Alternators
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Re: Warm-up Regulator?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. (unknown)
From: "Adam Ska" <kingskalar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: 5th gear grind
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
23. Re: temp guage
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
24. Re: 5th gear grind
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
25. Latest info about Die-cast DeLorean
From: delorean66@xxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 06:04:32 -0700
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Yahoo down last night
Note from moderator: Yahoo had the mailing list site shut down for
maintainance last night. They said all incoming posts would be held until
they started things back up. This morning there were no messages in the
queue. If you sent a post last night it apparently was lost ( I didn't
reject anything last night) so you'll have to re-submite it today. Please review the current postings and re-submit if you don't see it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 06:49:00 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Luggage area re-paint
...or Rustoleum Satin Black?
DMC Joe wrote:
> Krylon Semi Flat Black is the correct answer.
>
> DMC Joe
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 08:03:56 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Nose Bra
List,
This is totally unsolicited......If you are on the fence about buying a
nose bra, don't be! I purchased one of these Colgan Bra's in the first
round of ordering and it is really great. It hasn't marred anything and
as a matter of fact until I have enough cash to get a my front facia
repainted and "eyebrows" straightened this bra covers this minor flaw in
nice style.
Tom
#005732 MT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:05:05 -0000
From: debruin@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: High RPM when hot
I'm looking for some advise on a small problem I have. Ever since I
bought my D in june last year it always starts at about 3000RPM when
the engine is hot. When I start him in the morning, everything is
fine. But when I drive to the gasstation ,for instance, and start him
up after I filled him up, it really makes a lot of noise. He does
that for a few seconds and then settles down at about 700RPM.
Can someone tell me what is causing this? A fellow DeLorean owner
said it could be my coldstart valve. Is there a way to test this?
Every advise is welcome!
Mads de Bruin
VIN#06881
PS: Does anybody know something about the history of my VIN number?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:28:52 -0000
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Show on Speedvision
I saw that show when it first aired a few months back, the guy
paid $10,000 for it. And something sticks out in my mind that he was
the only bidder as well. But to have a pre production prototype is
hard to put a price on to begin with. I would say it was a good deal:)
-Jay
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, BondAtomic@xxxx wrote:
> Hello
> There was a show on Speedvision, called Classics, where they were
at a
> classic car auction. When they were showing cars being auctioned,
there was a
> pre-production DeLorean, with no louvres, different interior,
sliding
> windows, and no grille.
>
> I didn't hear how much it went for, but the guy who bought it said
it was
> cool for a collector guy because not many had a pre-production
DeLorean.
>
> John Feldman
> VIN 4275
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:59:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Alternators
Because I am cheap, and dont know much about rewiring
cars, I've found a place here in Albuquerque that will
take your existing Delorean alternator and rebuild it
(motorola, dulcier, or other) for 120 bux - with a
guarantee.
I had my Duce rebuilt - and now i dont have to worry
about it..... also, if you're like me, and the
battery light went out of your dash, and you dont want
to pull the thing apart, i can get a modification that
plugs into your alternator to "fake it out", and make
it think the light is active, and charge your system
as normal.
If you are interested drop me an email at mpike (at)
iqintermedia.com - if a lot of people wantto do it, i
can probably get them to drop the price.
Mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:46:59 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Question On Cruise Control Again
Folks:
I am looking to install a Cruise Control Unit in my standard 5 speed
DeLorean. In the past there were many postings on this subject -- many have
recommended the unit made by Sears.
My questions is, are there any other recommended units currently made, which
may be better then the Sears unit?
Or, is there any new recommendations in this area?
Thanks in advance.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 20:39:04 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedo
Hello,
Mike wrote:
> last year, a few days before i put my car away for the winter, the speedo
> stopped working. i figured that i would get it fixed once i get the car out
> this year. i took the car out of storage earlier this week and
> lo-and-behold, the speedo worked for about 20 minutes and then stopped
> working again. i find that it is working intermittantly. has this ever
> happened to anyone else?
There is a possibility the cable snapped and the ends hook up some of the time;
the cable consists of a bunch of thin strands of wire twisted into each other to
form the cable. The cable/shaft on my Angle Drive turns out to be broken too,
probably has been for the past two weeks, but the frayed ends hooked up and kept
it working for about 100 miles...
Now that I'm going to have to replace the Angle Drive this is probably a good
time to revise the entire system below the Lambdacounter: it turns out I still
have the 36" cable and am missing the support/guide bracket on the lower cable
(Thanks for the info to PJ Grady's).
I'm going to put on a rebuilt Angle Drive: according to their website this is
re-engineered to be able to take out the drive shaft through the hub too! It's
going to cost me more than I'd thought, but there's no point in fixing it only
half. Might as well do it ALL the right way...
Greetings,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 21:01:20 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: mirror switch followup
Hank Eskin wrote:
> I'm still obsessed with my mirror switch problem. Can someone explain how
> the switch/mirror function with respect to the LEFT and UP movements?
> According to the wiring diagram at M:18:18, it appears as if the both
> mirrors are controlled by the same lead (White/Purple WP and White/Brown
> WN), except for the addition of those two capacitors on the right mirror,
> wouldn't both mirrors move up if +12V is applied to either of these two
> leads? I'm not sure how those capacitors function to direct the current on
> either lead to the proper mirror, and not both. And since I don't have a
> functioning switch or switch schematic, I can't test it myself, and I'm not
> an EE.
The tiny "joystick" gives signals to the WP (White Purple) and WN (White
Brown)-wires on BOTH mirrors at the same time, BUT it depends on the posistion
of the slider beneath the joystick which mirror is connected to BOTH end s of
the SWITCH: with the slider to the right, the WG (White Green) and W
(White) wires are NOT connected to the joystick, so the mirror doesn't move.
Slide it to the left and the WU (White Blue) and WR (White Red) wires are
disconnected, so the other mirror doesn't move...
The capacitors seem to function as "noise supressors" since the wires goint to
the right have to pass the radio-wiring. As you might know, an electric motor
causes a lot of electric noise on its' leads and these capacitors dampen this
noise without the functioning of the motors and/or being hindered.
Hope this helps you out.
Now that i'm on the subject, has anyone ever tried to replace this switch with
one that can work both mirrors at the same time and can be switched over to
controlling only the left one? I've seen this on a couple of more modern cars
and realy like it: you adjust the right mirror to your needs while controlling
both, then switch to left only and adjust that one. Now put it in the right-hand
position again and when you change your seating position, or switch drivers you
only have to adjust the right mirror and the left one is OK too!
I DO have to note that on the righthand-position the wires for Left-Right-motion
are switched for the left mirror: when you put the mirror inwards (=left), the
left mirror goes inwards too (=right on that side). the Up-Down is just parralel...
Is there any other fitting switch that gives more precise adjustment, or has
anyone ever succesfully built a custom configuration? Maybe built out of several
smaller switches???
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 20:14:03
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: temp guage
Hay list,
I have a question about Temp guages. Mine in my Delorean wasn't working so
I checked all the connections by the coil and sure enough when the white
plug was wiggled my guage moved so I disconnected the plug cleaned the
connection then reconnected the plug. The guage worked for a while then the
next time I took it for a drive it stayed a 100 degreese again. What is
going on here? is it a bad connection? Any info would help. Thanks a bunch!
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 19:07:08 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: windshield washer pump
Anyone ever have to replace the windshield washer pump?
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
VIN 3713
DOA 4743
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 20:14:07 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: mirror switch completed
Hello All,
I'm no longer obsessed with the mirror switch. I figured it all out, and
while I wasn't able to repair my existing switch, I was able to match up a
switch from a 1995 Saab 900 (part# 4466405). I picked up two of these
switches for $8 on ebay, not knowing at all if they would work, but I
figured it can't be THAT difficult. It took some time to figure out the
Delorean wiring (thanks DMCJoe and Jan), as well as tracking down the
schematic and wiring diagram for the Saab switch (thanks to some Saab
enthusiasts out there). With one small exception, the Saab wiring exactly
matches up to the existing wiring harness.
The best part is that the Saab switch fits perfectly into the shell of the
old switch (with a little plastic removal, that is), and once installed,
looks almost like a stock switch if you didn't know any better.
I put up some quick photos and wiring chart here:
http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:59:23 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Warm-up Regulator?
I had the car in at PJ Gradys about 4 weeks ago, and Rob told me that my
regulator was almost/or is shot, and I would need a new one. I figured if
this is not a hard thing to do, perhaps I could take a crack at it (Rob...if
you are reading this..please do not cringe! :) ) and see if I could do it
myself with my limited skills. I was about ready to do it after last nights
post, but then I saw the warning about the gas lines, and having a fire
extinguisher ready, and now I am a little nervous again. I might just leave
it for Rob to do when I take the car in again in June for my AC.
-----Original Message-----
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Re: Warm-up Regulator?
Before you go replacing the control pressure regulater what are your
symptoms? Did you verify voltage and a good connection at the black
plug? Did you make sure that the short vent hose is not
kinked-blocked? There was a post a while back about someone who had a
problem with his regulater so he disassembled it and found a spider
inside. After cleaning and reassembly he was fine!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:08:56 -0500
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CAMS
im in the process of finding performance parts to rebuild my engine. i
know that there are a lot of volvo and peugeot performance sites that have a
lot of performance suggestions. we have a b28f volvo (in many models) and
the peugeot 504,505,605 have it too. here is a very helpful site
www.brickboard.com can help. just lay low then ask your questions. they love
to here from delorean owners! ill be around there today. also i will be
posting my changes @ www.sk1pper.com . i have hours of research i can give
you if you want it...
skipper landry
vin10246
----- Original Message -----
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] CAMS
>
> Has anyone replaced the camshafts with performance cams? If so what
brand?
> How was the modification process easy or hard?
>
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> Vin 5043
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 18:15:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Fedeli <fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Lee's DeLorean Kits
Hi Ken...sounds like you've taken a beating on this as the middle
man...that's what happens when you try to help out...I've been there...and
done that too! Looks good as a way to update things for their progression.
Sounds like you bought out 37 kits as I'm only aware of one completed kit
based on your numbers on the list. Hope I'm wrong on the math. You must
have deep pockets!
I'm sure you will recoup your money if and when they are completed. I
still want the two kits, however, only if they are delivered to me by
8/5/01. I feel enough time has now past for delivery. Keep me posted on
the outcome up to the August time frame deadline for my two kits. Thanks
for taking an interest and doing a good thing...your heart is in the right
place...I'm not sure Lee fully appreciates your position and what you are
now doing.
Joe Fedeli
On Sat, 5 May 2001 17:40:02 -0700 (PDT), Joe Fedeli wrote:
> Hi Ken. Well apparently the DML will no longer post anything
related
> to Lee's kit status and it looks like you are the point man as Lee
> apparently does not want to provide his email address or snail mail
address.
> Congradulations, (I think?) on the promotion if wanted or not. Well it's
> been over five months and still no kits or status from Lee. What will be
> the ACTUAL delivery date for the two kits I ordered? It appears that
this
> might be a lost cause at this point.
> I've hear someone at the last meet did actually see one, but I do
not
> know how many others have actually received theirs' as it is all lost in
the
> past history of this production between Lee and the DML. If they are not
> going to be produced, due to developmental or other issues Lee is having
and
> unresolved within the next three months from today's date, I afraid I
going
> to have to cancel my order and request a refund for the two kits I paid
Lee
> if it appears no resolution to Lee's production might be resolved within
the
> next three months. I understand your position and if you do not want to
> assume the responsibilities Lee has forced upon you, please send me a
snail
> mail address I can contact him (Lee) and address my concerns and
resolution
> directly. I understand how these things go as I've been working on an HO
> scale DeLorean slot car for over 2 years and production can be a problem.
> The difference is no pre-paid orders were taken. Again, I'm not mad at
you
> or Lee, however, now the time has come for a decision to be made by me.
I
> would like to obtain the two kits versus a full refund, however, if the
kits
> will NOT be completed and delivered by 8/5/01, I will require a full
refund
> now.
>
> Respectfully,
> Joe Fedeli
> 9850 Kings Highway South
> East Greenville, PA 18041-9425
>
> On Wed, 3 Jan 2001 18:41:30 -0800 (PST), Joe Fedeli wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Ken,
> >
> > Sorry to bother you again regarding the status and delivery of my
> two
> > DeLorean models. Just wanted to know how and if they are coming
along?
> I
> > know Lee was working on a Christmas delivery, I guess I should have
ask
> > which mileninem! I feel sorry for your position...the DML list has
now
> > placed you squarely at the 'point man' and responsible person
regarding
> the
> > 'incentive' for Lee to produce. I understand the complexities of
> developing
> > a model, I'm just about done on an HO scale model DeLorean that runs
on
> the
> > track that I've been working on for about two years. I'm hoping for
> > completion by Mar/Apr 2000, however, I've not told people as they get
> > 'anxious', and NEVER hold their money for long...people get upset!
Just
> > wanted to know how my two models are coming and if you can provide me
a
> ture
> > actual date for delivery. PLEASE tell Lee I'm still behind him, just
> VERY
> > anxious now two + years later after the paid order. Thanks again!
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:56:28 -0700, Montgomery, Ken wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Joe
> > >
> > > Yes, I got your last message and forwarded it to Lee. He's working
on
> > more
> > > of the kits right now so things are finally back on track.
> > >
> > > 'I'm' fine. I'm just trying to help out for everyone's sake. I just
> want
> > > this to be over. I'd like to see everyone happy and Lee needs to
move
> on
> > to
> > > things that will give him some cashflow.
> > >
> > > Hang in there.
> > >
> > > Ken
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Joe Fedeli [mailto:Fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 6:49 PM
> > > > To: kenm@xxxxxxxx
> > > > Subject: Re: Lee's DeLorean Kits
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dear Ken,
> > > >
> > > > I hope YOU have also not also fallen into the Lee
> > > > situation! I'm of
> > > > course assuming you have received this previous email.
> > > > Please let me know
> > > > the status. Thanks!
> > > >
> > > > Joe
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:45:27 -0700 (PDT), Joe Fedeli wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hello Ken! Sounds like a LOT of disappointed
> > > > customers out there.
> > > > I
> > > > > too understand the complexities of getting something 'up
> > > > and running',
> > > > then
> > > > > Murphy's Law kicks in and you end up starting over again
BEFORE
> the
> > > > > beginning! I'm not 'upset' as you have kept me informed
> > > > with the status,
> > > > > and I've been understanding of Lee's condition and DO
> > > > UNDERSTAND the
> > > > First
> > > > > Article and molding of this stuff! I'm sure Lee will be
> > > > sending the TWO
> > > > > models (#96 I believe and another issue number NOT
> > > > provided to me as it
> > > > was
> > > > > an unpaid 'spare' someone else did not send prepayment to
> > > > Lee for) I paid
> > > > > for within the near future, however, I would just
> > > > appreciate a little
> > > > > 'confirmation' of this fact by you based on all the
> > > > conversations on the
> > > > > DML. Thanks again.
> > > > > Thanks!
> > > > > Joe Fedeli
> > > > > 9850 Kings Highway South
> > > > > East Greenville, PA 18041-9425
> > > > > fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > > > Voice Mail: 1-888-392-4832 ext.800-441-1837
> > > > > Fax: 1-888-392-4832 ext. 800-441-1837*
>
> Thanks!
> Joe Fedeli
> fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx
> Voice Mail: 1-888-392-4832 ext.800-441-1837
> Fax: 1-888-392-4832 ext. 800-441-1837*
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
Thanks!
Joe Fedeli
fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx
Voice Mail: 1-888-392-4832 ext.800-441-1837
Fax: 1-888-392-4832 ext. 800-441-1837*
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 02:24:11 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: High RPM when hot
Verify that the idle micro switch is properly adjusted and that the
throttle cable is not binding. It sounds like the throttle is not
returning completly to the idle position and engaging the micro
switch. You might have to either-both lubricate the throttle cable and
spool, and readjust the idle micro. If it starts right up cold then
the cold start valve and system would appear functional. It does not
control idle speed directly. Another remote possibility is that the
air flow sensor plate is not centered and is rubbing the side of the
venturi. This is a delicate adjustment. To inspect remove the air
filter and look for rub marks and GENTLY move the sensor with a
finger. It should move smoothly without rubbing the sides. Do this
with the motor off! Verify that the 3 brass adjusting screws are
LIGHTLY seated closed, they are not used in this application, the idle
speed motor contols idle air flow.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, debruin@xxxx wrote:
> I'm looking for some advise on a small problem I have. Ever since I
> bought my D in june last year it always starts at about 3000RPM when
> the engine is hot. When I start him in the morning, everything is
> fine. But when I drive to the gasstation ,for instance, and start
him
> up after I filled him up, it really makes a lot of noise. He does
> that for a few seconds and then settles down at about 700RPM.
> Can someone tell me what is causing this? A fellow DeLorean owner
> said it could be my coldstart valve. Is there a way to test this?
> Every advise is welcome!
>
> Mads de Bruin
> VIN#06881
>
> PS: Does anybody know something about the history of my VIN number?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 02:29:50
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 5th gear grind
Hi all,
Since I am still new at owning a DeLorean I may havesome really dumb
questions. But I noticed that when I first start driving When I shift into
5th gear it goes smoothly. Well after driving for awhile and everythings
warm It gets a little grind shifting into 5th gear. Do you think the Tranny
fluid need to be changed? Any info or ideas would be great. Thanks!
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 02:33:51 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: High RPM when hot
If your cold start valve was open all the time, it would flood the
engine untill it dies. It almost sounds as though your idle speed
regulator is on the blink. When my idle speed circuit was down, I
rigged everything up where I could set the idle manualy. When cold,
the engine would idle about 800-900 RPM's. With the valve in the same
position with the engine hot, the idle would jump to 1600 RPM's. If
your idle is up around 3000 RPM's, then your idle speed motor is full
open. After purchasing a new idle speed motor and ECU, the trouble
turned out to be a faulty wire (black/green in my case). Here is the
best way I've found to check the idle speed circuit.
Using a voltmeter with the key in the "ON" position, check for 12
volts from the hot wire, and verify that the ground connection for
both the ECU, and the microswitch is good (12 volts from the hot wire
directly to the grounds). Another way to test the microswitch is to
put the key into the "ON" position, and trip the microswitch. When
doing this, you should hear the vaccum solenoid under the intake
manifold clicking.
For the wiring to the idle speed motor, try this. Insert a jumper
wire between the hot wire and the wire you wish to test. In the
engine compartment, connect the volt meter to the wire, and ground
the connection to the engine block. Check for 12 volts on all 3 wires.
Other then that, the only other thing I can think of might be a poor
connection/signal from the white/slate wire. But before this, try
checking all other wires first.
I don't know exactly what you mean when you said your car "makes a
lot of noise" when starting. Is the car having difficulty starting?
Or is the just very high for those few seconds?
Try that and see how things turn out.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, debruin@xxxx wrote:
> I'm looking for some advise on a small problem I have. Ever since I
> bought my D in june last year it always starts at about 3000RPM
when
> the engine is hot. When I start him in the morning, everything is
> fine.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 02:50:19 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternators
Believe me, I am totally on your side when it comes to shopping
around for the best price. But I would highly reccomend that you
replace the warning light in the binnacle. Asides from telling you
when the alternator has gone bad, it also serves another purpose. If
the light comes on while driving, this is usually a sure sign that
your alternator belt has come loose. This belt is also connected to
the water pump. If the pump stops while driving, then overheating of
your engine is imminent unless you pull over IMMEDIATELY!!!
If you are driving for either a commute or for pleasure, you may not
notice the light if it comes on. Replacement of one bulb is much
cheaper then an entire engine.
The job isn't as simple as an oil change, but by the same token it
isn't impossible. A little insurance now for that little light may
save you in the future...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
>...also, if you're like me, and the
> battery light went out of your dash, and you dont want
> to pull the thing apart, i can get a modification that
> plugs into your alternator to "fake it out", and make
> it think the light is active, and charge your system
> as normal.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 04:00:49 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Warm-up Regulator?
Kevin, I'm not trying to make a mechanic out of you. But I have been
working on cars like a lot of us out here, and I have never included
a fire extguisher as part of my tool kit. Yes, I have a couple in the
house and at the office. But, If you handle gas with respect and read
a little about what you want to do in the workshop manuel and don't
do something dum like smoking around the gas, then it will be no more
of a problem than filling up your gas tank in the car with gas. Did
you know that metal to metal can make a spark to ignite gas, but when
was the last time you heard of someone blowing up a service station
when getting a fill up.To many people throw around fire, fire, fire a
lot to scare people.
John Hervey
Fire Chief of Forney, Texas
www.specialTauto.com
Your De Lorean Parts Store.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I had the car in at PJ Gradys about 4 weeks ago, and Rob told me
that my
> regulator was almost/or is shot, and I would need a new one. I
figured if
> this is not a hard thing to do, perhaps I could take a crack at it
(Rob...if
> you are reading this..please do not cringe! :) ) and see if I
could do it
> myself with my limited skills. I was about ready to do it after
last nights
> post, but then I saw the warning about the gas lines, and having a
fire
> extinguisher ready, and now I am a little nervous again. I might
just leave
> it for Rob to do when I take the car in again in June for my AC.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jtrealty@xxxx [mailto:jtrealty@w...]
> Subject: [DML] Re: Warm-up Regulator?
>
>
> Before you go replacing the control pressure regulater what are your
> symptoms? Did you verify voltage and a good connection at the black
> plug? Did you make sure that the short vent hose is not
> kinked-blocked? There was a post a while back about someone who had
a
> problem with his regulater so he disassembled it and found a spider
> inside. After cleaning and reassembly he was fine!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 04:27:25 -0000
From: "Adam Ska" <kingskalar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (unknown)
Hi, I'm new to the group, and I have been wanting to purchase a
DeLorean for quite a while, and when one showed up for sale somewhat
near me, I decided to go and check it out.
I dont' want to buy something that is going to be irrepairable or cost
me more money than its worth, and I'd like an expert's opinion
It was a several hour drive to get there and the man who was selling
it was not there when I arrived, we miscommunicated the time I was to
arrive. Neverthless, his daughter let me into the garage where it
was.
and there it was, in its gleaming stainless-steel beauty.. although on
blocks!
.. I critiqued the outside.. it was an early 81' with a grooved hood
and gas flap, there was a small ding in the hood. the door had a few
key scratches. it also had one of those thin stripes with the DMC
logo.
When I opened the door, the door drooped a little, but stayed open.
Some piece immediately fell out of the car and hit the floor. an
armrest of some sort?
the car was an automatic, with 65,000 miles the odo.
The mirrors on the doors were rather cloudy, so was the one on the
windshield.. although it didn't stay there for long; I tried to adjust
it, and it fell off into my hand... it also had a small crack in the
lower left.
the seats and the rest of the interior looked great, besides the
dash, which had a large crack, but was covered by a dash cover.
the passenger side door wouldn't stay open.. I would open it.. and it
would fall down. New Struts? maybe adjusting the torsion bar?
the engine looked pretty clean. I don't know too much about the
engine itself, so I couldn't find out exactly whats wrong with
it.(i'll explain it later on)
so I climbed into the passenger side, and I shut the door, I noticed
the roof light is loosening, and needed to be fixed.
...and thats when I heard 'Varoooooom!!!'
....the owner's daughter, climbed into the driver side turned the key
and started the engine... the engine sputtered and spattered and
barely kept an idle... so she applied gas, and when she did the engine
died.
....I'm thinking fuel contamination? She didn't know how long exactly
the car was stored there. Judging by the condition its in.. a pretty
long time.
she started it up another time..pressed the pedal and it died
again...
I grimaced and told her I thought the fuel could be contaminated..
the car also looked like it needed new tires.. and after i got out,
there was a small drop of oil underneath the transmission
at any rate, it looked very sad in the garage was in, up on blocks..
I would love to take it home and restore it to original condition.
the man wants $14,000 for it, which I think is about TWICE what it is
worth. he is on vacation now and returns sometime next week, and then
he will have it off of the blocks so I can test drive it to see how it
handles.
If no more problems show up, I think I may offer him $7000, but not
more than 8K.
what do you guys think? would I be overpaying? or is this a lost
cause?
Thanks
-Adam
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 04:39:22 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 5th gear grind
Ryan, If your new to the car and the car to you. I would replace the
fluids just to be safe and know it's done and when it was done. Be
sure you do it to factory specs.I also use a little teflon lubricant
in the standard transmission to make it shift a little smoother. I
know some people on the group don't like it, but it works, But,
nothing beats a good old fashioned linkage adjustment. It's 20+ years
old. It's need greasing and adjusting.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
> Since I am still new at owning a DeLorean I may havesome really
dumb
> questions. But I noticed that when I first start driving When I
shift into
> 5th gear it goes smoothly. Well after driving for awhile and
everythings
> warm It gets a little grind shifting into 5th gear. Do you think
the Tranny
> fluid need to be changed? Any info or ideas would be great. Thanks!
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 04:32:52 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: temp guage
Ryan, If all the connections are good. Then I would replace the temp
send unit.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxx> wrote:
> Hay list,
> I have a question about Temp guages. Mine in my Delorean wasn't
working so
> I checked all the connections by the coil and sure enough when the
white
> plug was wiggled my guage moved so I disconnected the plug cleaned
the
> connection then reconnected the plug. The guage worked for a while
then the
> next time I took it for a drive it stayed a 100 degreese again.
What is
> going on here? is it a bad connection? Any info would help. Thanks
a bunch!
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 22:00:06 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 5th gear grind
Since you brought this up, I'm having a similar problem with my tranny. It
shifts easily up and down through all the gears, but after the car has been
driven for a while and gets hot, it will briefly grind on a downshift to
fourth gear only. No other gears, just downshifting to fourth unless I rev
it a little to match the RPMs. Could this be that pesky plastic clutch line
heating up? Thanks!
payne
#2975
> Hi all,
> Since I am still new at owning a DeLorean I may havesome really dumb
> questions. But I noticed that when I first start driving When I shift into
> 5th gear it goes smoothly. Well after driving for awhile and everythings
> warm It gets a little grind shifting into 5th gear. Do you think the
Tranny
> fluid need to be changed? Any info or ideas would be great. Thanks!
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 05:44:01 -0000
From: delorean66@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Latest info about Die-cast DeLorean
SunStar's new die-cast DeLorean will be 1:18 scale (approx. 12 inches
long). It will have opening doors and hood. It will be released in
September, with a pricetag of $25.00. Check out:
http://www.diecastmuscle.com/
Grigor
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN