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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: speedo..
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Mechanic in Virginia??
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Warm-up Regulator?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Stuck passenger door.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
5. Speedo problem, please tell me this isn't true!
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: Mechanic in Virginia??
From: paulf52093@xxxxxxx
7. Re: mirror switch followup
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: DeLorean in Crutchfield
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Last call for nose bras
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
11. Re: speedo..
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. fuel pump
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Show on Speedvision
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Luggage area re-paint
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 23:57:53 EDT
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: speedo..
Hi List,
The same problem happended on my D last year. The hole in the plastic cap
had become round insted of square (normal wear I would assume). I was able
to epoxy the cap to the cable, and the speedo has worked perfectly ever since.
Andy
4194
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 04:04:40 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mechanic in Virginia??
You might want to call one of the Delorean venders as they have some
working arangements with shops they have shipped parts to in the past
and had repaired other "D's". There is a shop in Perkasie Pa. if that
is not too far. I know for a fact that P.J. Grady has walked mechanics
in antique and classic shops through many problems and once the
trouble is diagnosed shipped the needed parts next day UPS. What are
you "current problems" and maybe the list can help!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote:
> If I cannot solve my current problems (with the car
> that is) does anyone know a mechanic in the Norfolk -
> Williamsburg Virginia area? Or should I take up
> bowling as a hobby. Thanks. -=DH=-
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 04:10:40 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Warm-up Regulator?
Before you go replacing the control pressure regulater what are your
symptoms? Did you verify voltage and a good connection at the black
plug? Did you make sure that the short vent hose is not
kinked-blocked? There was a post a while back about someone who had a
problem with his regulater so he disassembled it and found a spider
inside. After cleaning and reassembly he was fine!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I was told that my car needs a new "Warm Up Regulator" Is this the
same as
> an Idle Speed Regulator?
>
> What is involved with replacing this unit? It is as simple as
replacing the
> part (I'm sure the answer to that will be "No")
> What else needs to be done when you replace this unit? What else
needs to
> be tweaked/tuned upon it being replaced?
>
> Kevin Abato
> VIN# 1668
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 09:47:55 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stuck passenger door.
I can't figure out why since the bell crank didn't move back any
further once I disconnected the cable. But the door unlocked and
opened! The sheath of the door cable had been caught, and streched
the cable out a little farther. So this appears to be what was
causing the locking problem. Although after that, my door wouldn't
latch properly. After reseating the cable cover, the door works
perfectly! Plus now it the lock and the door handles are MUCH lighter
to pull then they were before.
I also did as other list members reccomended and pushed the interior
door handle down to reverse the bell crank to unlock the door. Even
that didn't work.
But now every thing is back to normal and progressing fine. MANY
thanks to DMC Joe for solving my problem, and to my fellow list
members who took time out to write me to help me out!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Robert,
>
> Try this first step to release your door lock. Locate the exterior
door handle cable where it attaches to the latch release link bell
crank which is located just above the interior door release handle.
Push the bellcrank back to allow you to detach the cable ball end
from the bellcrank. Check to see if the lock releases. Let me know
the result.
>
> DMC Joe
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:51:11 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Speedo problem, please tell me this isn't true!
Hello all,
Yesterday we had a GREAT clubmeeting hosted by the DeLorean Club
Netherlands (DCN) the drive to and from the meet was very nice and
since it was sunday traffica was quite light, so I drove the car at
somewhat higher speeds (peeking at about 120Mph at one point) than I
normally do and on this occasion for a longer stretch too...
Above 100Mph I heard a high pitched sound coming from in front of me,
at first I thought it was the air whistling through the
windshieldwipers, but operating them didn't change the sound at all.
The speedometer was my second guess, since it WAS "pegged out", but
I've drive 100+Mph before without trouble or noise.
When I was about 400meters from my house I had to use my indicator and
as I moved my hand toward the lever I SAW the spedometer drop to zero.
It never rose again, so I suspected the drive had failed on me, even
though I'd lubed it shortly after I bought the car 7 months ago and had
even lubed it last week when I was working on my horns.
I took a look to see where the problem was;
whipping the upper Speedo-cable (just above the Lambdacounter) made the
needle jump, so that seems OK. Lifting the left wheel and spinning it
didn't make the lower cable move (just below the Lambdacounter), so I
took off the left wheel to inspect the angledrive.
Upon removal of the wheel my problem was clear immediately: the plastic
cap that is pinched between the wheel and the hub fell out with a piece
of cable attached to it and the other end stuck inside the hub.
NOW PLEASE TELL ME THIS ISN'T TRUE:
In the partsmanual it looks like this piece of cable is part of the
angle-drive (ADAPTER,SPEEDO CABLE is the official term used).
Do I actually have to buy this $189.50 assy just because of this piece
of &%$^$#%@$!-cable that snapped?
I allready know what caused it to snap I think: I had the left front
wheelbearing replaced two weeks ago and it seems like the cable broke
when they tried to remove the plastic cap (is this the Dustshield,
part# 105104 or am I wrong here?); the broken-off bit was in there
REALLY stuck: had to use a couple of pliers and pull very hard to get
it out. Probaly can't even blame them: mine was the first DeLorean they
ever worked on and even though they probably DID break my speedo-drive,
the rest of the engine work they did is great, so I WILL go back to
them next time I need an annual inspection or other service.
If any one can tell me if there's another way to fix this other that
replacing the angledrive, plese let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:59:27 EDT
From: paulf52093@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mechanic in Virginia??
Richmond may be a bit far, but I've taken my D to Bill Ferguson at Ferguson
Auto Service on Sheppard St. for nearly 15 years. What sold me initially was
when I walked into his shop for the first time and asked him if he was
comfortable working on DeLoreans. Without a word, he reached up to a shelf
and took down a DeLorean service manual. The place is not perfect, but then
what service place is?
Worth talking to Bill any way ... 804-358-0006
Tell him Groucho sent you!
Paul Feine
# 10944
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:55:48 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: mirror switch followup
Hello All,
I'm still obsessed with my mirror switch problem. Can someone explain how
the switch/mirror function with respect to the LEFT and UP movements?
According to the wiring diagram at M:18:18, it appears as if the both
mirrors are controlled by the same lead (White/Purple WP and White/Brown
WN), except for the addition of those two capacitors on the right mirror,
wouldn't both mirrors move up if +12V is applied to either of these two
leads? I'm not sure how those capacitors function to direct the current on
either lead to the proper mirror, and not both. And since I don't have a
functioning switch or switch schematic, I can't test it myself, and I'm not
an EE.
Thanks,
-Hank #1619
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:22:17 -0700
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DeLorean in Crutchfield
And then he hung up on you? Are you sure you called Crutchfield? I've always
found their customer service to be /excellent/. Never a problem, in fact
they've gone out of their way to make me happy. They don't have the best
prices available but quality, attention to detail & the best customer
service I've received anywhere more than makes up for it. If someone laughed
and hung up on you, my guess is you called the wrong phone number.
-___-----------------------------------------------------------------
| , | ___ ___ _ -- Ryan P. Wright, MCP
| _/__ __/ _ \ | | | -- Web Operations Analyst, Lamb-Weston, Inc.
| \ \/ / /_\ \| | | | -- Email: ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
|_|\_\ /_/---\_\_|___| --
------|_|------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 4:15 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean in Crutchfield
That's really funny because i called Crutchfield a few months ago asking if
they had anything DeLorean-specific, especially a mounting kit, and the guy
goes, 'ha! DeLorean! we don't have that stuff!' and he hung up on me. never
called them again!
andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:28:41 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Schematics needed for mirror switch and mirror motors..
> Hank,
If the switch is not repairable you can replace it with a GM type from the late 80's e.g pontiac 6000. Its grey and black so it goes with any interior. Wiring logic is
the same. You can build you own adapter and fit it in the door.
BOb
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 14:52:53 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Last call for nose bras
Last weekend was the order deadline, and I'm happy to say we've reached our
minimum number target for Colgan Custom DeLorean nose bras. So, we have
enough to place an order :) If you've been thinking about getting one,
consider this your last call, and contact me privately at deloreanernst <at>
aol.com. No more will be manufactured this year!
Wayne
Still living the dream!
vin 11174
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:57:47 -0700
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speedo..
Andrew,
You may have set yourself up for a more expensive repair down the road. That is
not the end of the speedometer cable that you epoxied to. It is the input shaft
for the angle drive. The dust shield (p/n 105104) is a $15.00 part. The angle
drive (p/n 106130) is $240.00 part.
Normally, if the angle drive fails, the shaft freezes and will break off the sides
of the square hole in the dust cap and make it round. But often the angle drive
can be removed, disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and saved. With the two
epoxied together, I doubt that you can even remove the angle drive.
Hank Breer
VIN 1141
AJL521@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> The same problem happended on my D last year. The hole in the plastic cap
> had become round insted of square (normal wear I would assume). I was able
> to epoxy the cap to the cable, and the speedo has worked perfectly ever since.
>
> Andy
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:35:15 -0400
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel pump
[moderators note: Remember, one of the jobs the RPM relay does is look for the RPM's to pick up when the engine starts. If it doesn't see this within a specific time it shuts off the fuel pump. With the pump running outside the realm of the RPM relay you may very likely flood the engine]
2 different people and I fixed mine 2 ways.
#1 way - small toggle switch installed under the ashtray; wire from pump to toggle switch; wire frrom toggle switch to #11 fuse with an inline 20 amp fuse; bypasses the rpm relay; wire from fuel pump to the inertia switch (before); downside is the pump is on when the ignition is on; in the event of an accident = problem!
#2 way - 2 new wire end connections on the pump; replace inertia switch, new RPM relay, maybe also clean harness ground wire.
by doing both, I feel I will never have a dead fuel pump, but must keep the switch off unless a problem arises and the pump doesn't work -------- a short time fix and in an emergency situation only.
However, I ain't no mechanic!!
Marvin Stein
vin 4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:42:58 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Show on Speedvision
Hello
There was a show on Speedvision, called Classics, where they were at a
classic car auction. When they were showing cars being auctioned, there was a
pre-production DeLorean, with no louvres, different interior, sliding
windows, and no grille.
I didn't hear how much it went for, but the guy who bought it said it was
cool for a collector guy because not many had a pre-production DeLorean.
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 05:25:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Luggage area re-paint
Krylon Semi Flat Black is the correct answer.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com TEMPORARLY DOWN; USE: <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/>
----- Original Message -----
From: Watkins Family
To: DMC News list
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 9:00 PM
Subject: [DML] Luggage area re-paint
What would be the best paint to use if I wanted to freshen up the front
luggage area under the bonnet? It's looking a bit mottled from release
agents used in making it (I assume). Would Krylon work? I want it to
look uniform in the entire compartment.
Thanks
Tom
#005732 MT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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