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There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
From: "Matthew Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
2. DeLoreans for sale in Hawaii
From: "James Martin" <fierojames@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: speedo problem....
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
4. Snap in Dash replacement Update
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Clutch Slipping.
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
From: "Richard W. Schauer" <rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Clutch Slipping.
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Original Dealers
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Clutch Slipping.
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Original Dealers
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
13. Installing windshield
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
14. Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
15. Lee's DMC Models in time for Xmas?
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
From: "Richard W. Schauer" <rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Installing windshield
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Original Dealers
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. A frightning experience(Part 1)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. Door adjustment Tech Tip
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 23:46:38 -0500
From: "Matthew Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
Welp, right here is one guy who pre-ordered the model today immediately
after seeing James Espey's post. The other model is on www.miniauto.com and
"...is heavy "white metal" 4 1/2" long, mounted in display case and special
orders can be personalized at no extra charge with
plate on base up to 70 letters and spaces." according to D. Sinclair who
owns the site I believe. I originally planned to order this model, but at a
price of $235 it's nearly 10x as much. The Sunstar model says pre-order for
2001, and does not list a month or date when it will be available but I'm
sure I'll still want it equally as much no matter when that is, so I went
for it.
Matt
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 21:15:03 -1000
From: "James Martin" <fierojames@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLoreans for sale in Hawaii
Does anybody know of any DeLoreans for sale in Hawaii? Preferably on Oahu? I am looking to buy my first DeLorean.
-James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 06:53:05 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: speedo problem....
In a message dated 12/5/00 7:47:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, Soma576@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< i have talked with the previous owner and he has informed he that it is
not the lower cable or angle drive because both of these were just replaced
early this year. he's right because upon inspection, the tubes look very
fresh and all the connections seem nice and tight, very new looking. now
what can it be that is causing my speedo to act up? the prev owner also
told
me that this summer he was having intermittent problems with the speedo and
his mechanic took apart his lambda counter, greased it up, put it back
together, and it all worked again.
is the lambda counter a likely suspect? >>
Not usually. An intermittent connection somewhere in the system is the
likely culprit. Apart from the angle drive and lower cable connection, which
might look fine from the outside but not be properly seated, there are two
other spots to check: the short cable that runs from the angle drive out
through the wheel hub, and the round disc it links up to in the wheel hub.
The short cable is replaced with the angle drive, so it isn't likely to be
broken unless the mechanic who installed it, (probably not a DeLorean expert,
I'm guessing?) damaged it on installation. But the connection might not be
properly seated at the disc, or the disc itself might be worn. The tiny hole
in the center should be square, to fit the end of the cable. A siezed angle
drive might have rounded out the hole. Just pull the wheel off and take a
look. That's pretty easy to do. That's what I'd look at first.
BTW, have your angle drive lubed each time you get an oil change!
-Wayne
vin 11174 ('82 too!)
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:40:25 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Snap in Dash replacement Update
Sorry it took me so long to post this update but I was waiting to see
if I would get anymore responses to the snap in replacement dash
before I posted this. Unfourtunatley I won't be able to get the
manufacture to make us the dash since I only recieved about 24
responses from people (I needed 100 min). I am not in position in
laying out money for 100 dash replacements either so I had to drop
this project :(.
Sorry again for all those who were interested.
James Espey tells me that DMC Houston is going to carry something
similar and will be available sometime in the new year, I guess we
can wait and see what turns up.
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 08:49:35 -0800
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
Last month I talked to Sunstar direct. They indicated that the model would
be available Q1 2001. I recently purchased their Lincoln Stretch Limo and
the quality is good (not on par with Maisto or Burrago but still not
toy-like). I am curious how convincing the stainless steel finish will be.
Don ,
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 19:34:54 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch Slipping.
This is probably Not Good.
There is no way to inspect the clutch from outside. There are a
couple of holes that you can look into and see the backside of the
pressure plate, but unless there is massive amounts of fluid in there
you won't tell much.
I've never heard of anyone being able to "clean up" an oily clutch
disc, even off the car but especially on the car. There is not much
room in there when it's put together, anything you "spray" in there
will just gook everything up and pretty much stay there. A degreaser
would tend to wash the lube from the throwout bearing slider and the
fork pivot, and then you'd have other problems.
Normally when the slave cylinder leaks it runs around the bellhousing
onto the frame and then the floor, but I suppose that it could get on
the clutch in an extreme case, especially if the dust shield is
missing. At any rate, there is no way to clean up the clutch without
taking it apart, and judging by your symptoms something catastrophic
(massive leak or the clutch disk just failed) has happened. The only
alternative would be if you happened to run through deep water and
get it all wet, but I presume that you would have mentioned that in
your post.
Might be a good time to learn how to pull the transaxle - not a lot
of fun but I have done mine on jackstands on the garage. This job is
a LOT of labor, the thing weighs a ton. The parts themselves are not
too bad.
I wrote it up at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/manualtrans.htm
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
.....Right now my car is driveable, but I
> can't accellerate fast. If I push the gas pedal too fast the clutch
> slips and the RPM's just shoot up. When I had the old clutch
> replaced, it took over a week to get this bad, when this happened
> last night, there was no warning at all. However When I checked the
> fluid level in the clutch it was below half full. I filled it back
> up, but no change for the clutch. Looking down from above, the
slave
> cylinder appears to have a small leak. But I haven't noticed any
> stains on my garge floor from it. If this is a case of DOT4 or some
> other type of fluid/oil on the clutch plate & fly wheel: 1. How Can
I
> inspect everything. 2. Is there any type of degreaser or detergent
> that I could safely spray up to clean the clutch?
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 14:11:54 -0600 (CST)
From: "Richard W. Schauer" <rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
For those who were asking what the De Lorean Motor Club of America's 160
mph speedometer face looked like, I have scanned in a copy of the face
from an old "De Gull Wing" newsletter (I'm at work and I don't recall
which one; if you're curious e-mail me and I'll look). It's available
at http://www.enteract.com/~rws/dmc160mi.bmp . Also available in PCX
format; substitute .pcx for .bmp. The mph markings are in white, and the
km/h markings are in blue.
Does anybody else actually *have* this speedometer on their car? I have
it on mine and I don't really like it, but if nobody else has one, I
suppose I ought to keep it.
Richard Schauer
#4411
rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 20:45:42 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch Slipping.
The pad on the clutch disk will pretty much absorb some amount of oil
(or fluid) if left in contact with it. This said, if you do have a
leaky slave and it did manage to leak into the bell housing and get
onto the pad your pretty much SOL. Also another thing to note is that
the rear main seal on the engine (right behind the clutch) tends to
leak and get all over the clutch. If you pull the tranny to replace
the clucth do the following:
1. Purchase a new clucth kit (I use Centerforces clutch, P/N
CF12184). Don't attempt to try and clean your old one.
2. Get the flywheel resurfaced! don't have it "cut" like a
traditional brake rotor instead have it "ground finished" your clutch
will last longer. I know that some PEP Boys shops have the machine to
do this, check with them if you have one in your area. I recomend
resurfacing the flywheel even if it looks good to get rid of the
glaze (shiney surface) so that the clutch will be alot more
responsive and grip better.
3. Replace the rear main seal on the engine since you have it all
apart. The seal is not expensive and is not all that hard to replace.
4. If the slave cylinder is leaking...Replace it don't even attempt
to have or try to rebuild it.
5. Replace the Throw out bearing and Pilot bearing even if they seem
good. If they go bad then you are going to have to do the entire
thing all over (taking the tranny of the car that is). If you call
Rob at PJ Grady or even DMC Joe they can instruct you on what grease
to use on the Throw Out bearing how to apply it...VERY IMPORTANT
especially if you have a early model D that has the metal sleaved
Throw out bearing, they tend to rust and start to stick. I don't know
what VIN thay started to install the Throw out bearing with the
plastic sleave. From what I understand they are not interchangable.
You also might want to think about replacing the plastic (if you
still have it) clutch line with the Stainless Steel one that the
Delorean vendors carry. The plastic line begins to expand as it heats
up. This will cause the clutch not to fully dissengage and after a
long period of time (years?) can lead to burning your clutch. That is
not likely what caused your clutch to go now but I suggest this since
you'll have the entire clutch assembly with the slave cylinder out.
I know Rob at PJ Grady (and I am sure that the other D vendors have
it too) a clutch rebuild kit that contains everything you need and
with the choice of either using the OEM clutch or Centerforce one.
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> Back in September when my clutch begain slipping I had it replaced
> (the old one was completely fried!). For the past 2½ month's
> everything has been going fine untill last night. >snip<
>snip<
the slave
> cylinder appears to have a small leak.
>snip<
2. Is there any type of degreaser or detergent
> that I could safely spray up to clean the clutch? The other thing
is
> that for a while now the salve cylinder has been rather squeeky. I
> daubed a little grease onto the piston while it was fully extended
by
> having someone else hold the clutch pedal in. While this has not
> cured my problem either, the slave cylinder operates ALOT quieter
now.
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 (the DeLorean from hell!)
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:28:46 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Original Dealers
Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone had a list of all the original Delorean dealers by state or if
anyone knows of a link to a list. I'm just curious about this.
Thanks.............Jason #5903
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:03:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
Richard, I have a 160 mph speedometer on my car but it has been there so
long I forgot where I purchased it. My question is two fold, why don't you
like it and why keep it if no one else has one. The old 85 mph model seemed
always to be pegged out so I at least have one that registers how fast I am
going. FYI the desire to speed has diminished with age.
On Thu, 7 Dec 2000 14:11:54 -0600 (CST), rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Does anybody else actually *have* this speedometer on their car? I have it
on mine and I don't really like it, but if nobody else has one, I suppose I
ought to keep it.
Richard Schauer
#4411
rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx
_______________________________________________________
Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:54:36 EST
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Clutch Slipping.
In a message dated 12/07/2000 4:20:39 PM Central Standard Time,
srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< 1. Purchase a new clucth kit (I use Centerforces clutch, P/N
CF12184). Don't attempt to try and clean your old one. >>
I have the above in my Delorean and it works fine but I put one in my 5.0
Mustang and grooved the flywheel and burned it out in 8000 miles. Centerforce
has no Warranty and just don't want to hear about it. They wont rebuild or
repair it and don't even want to see it. I wouldn't spend that money on a 130
HP engine that the stocker should work fine on. Knowing what I do now; I
would definitely not use a Duel Disc clutch. Just my opinion- I could be
wrong (to quote Dennis Miller)
Ralph
VIN 1606
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 20:58:13 EST
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Original Dealers
I dont know if this lists ALL of the original dealers, but included with my
car came a brochure titled "1981 DeLorean Authorized Dealerships" or
something of the like, listing all DeLorean dealerships across the United
States and Canada for 1981.
My car came with like 3 of these. If you want I will send you one if you give
me an address that I can send it to.
Justin
5172
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 21:29:14 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Installing windshield
Hello List,
I cut my windshield out about 5 months ago because it was severely
cracked. I bought a new one and I'm going to have a friend at a glass shop
come put it in for me. since he didnt take the old windshield off he doesnt
know exactly how it goes back on. could anyone give me glueing instructions?
I know how to put the trim on etc but am not sure about the glue bead
thickness, what type of glue do I use? He said just give him a few basic
things and he will come do it for material cost only. any info would be
greatly appreciated.
Also, I am curious about the new Dash cover DMC Houston was working on.
Does anyone know exactly how long? if not too long I wont put my dash back
in until it is available.
Thanks
David
#2496-
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 03:13:21 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
Wow, they sold just that for $250 dollars! Depending on how much they
sold, they probably made a lot of money. My whole backlit dash
project is going to cost $250 dollars, and that comes with the
customer's choice of a speedo face. I wasn't planning on doing the
160, (never even heard of it untill DanRC30 got his). But I suppose
if there is interest, I could probably also offer this face for the
backlit speedo. I would still like to see a color photo of this
speedo actually in the car, so if anyone can do that, please post it!
BTW, I am still working on preliminary prototypes for my backlit dash
project. I still need some more people interested though. In order
to acually produce this, I will need a minimum of 20 confirmed orders.
I'm not taking orders yet, just gathering a list of interested
people, so if you are interested and have not yet emailed me, let me
know! Pictures of my speedo face (85mph) prototype can be seen in the
vault. (eGroups "files" section). My email is ultra'at'isd.net
Jim Reeve
-6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM - Ultra2169
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 19:07:10 -0600
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lee's DMC Models in time for Xmas?
MODERATOR NOTE: I do not want to get another rant going on this topic. Direct further inquires to Ken Montgomery at directory(AT)dmcnews.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
A few months ago we received note on the DML that our kits would be in our hands in time for X-mas. Its getting closer and closer to that time of the year and I was wondering if anyone had learned anything new since then.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 22:56:51 -0600 (CST)
From: "Richard W. Schauer" <rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMCA 160 mph speedometer face
On Thu, 7 Dec 2000, Dee Moats wrote:
> Richard, I have a 160 mph speedometer on my car but it has been there so
> long I forgot where I purchased it. My question is two fold, why don't you
> like it and why keep it if no one else has one. The old 85 mph model seemed
> always to be pegged out so I at least have one that registers how fast I am
> going. FYI the desire to speed has diminished with age.
I don't like it because is doesn't match the rest of the instrument
cluster, not even close. The black background is different, more of a
matte finish, the typeface is different from the tachometer, the type is
blurry, there are no 5 mph markings, and it just doesn't look right in the
car. Also my car is in fairly original shape (it has 3900 miles and the
original NCT tires), and if I'd ever put it in a concours, it would be
nice not to have a deduction for the speedometer. But, I keep it because
it's piece of the car's history, and I wouldn't feel right getting rid of
something there's so few of. Besides, with my luck, the numbers
underneath have been sanded down to make them flat, and if I peel the 160
face off, I'll have two ruined speedo faces.
Jim Reeve also asked about the price. In the newsletter I scanned it out
of, "De Gull Wing" Nov/Dec 1982 vol. 1 no. 4, which is the first mention
of this face being available, the price is $250 installed. In all the
other issues I have, the price has dropped to $89.95 installed. Even at
that price, I don't think they sold many.
Richard Schauer
#4411
rws@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 00:22:29 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Installing windshield
David,
Complete instructions for installing the DeLorean windshield can be found in
the Workshop Manual at P:02:22.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Installing windshield
> know exactly how it goes back on. could anyone give me glueing
instructions?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 05:26:33
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Original Dealers
Check this link to the best delorean FAQ i've ever seen, and it is also on
the dmcnews web site.
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/d_memo5.htm
It has a memo, and it separates the states into regions. I would love to
find the old dealership in south dakota, Iowa, and Nebraska. But I guess
that would be next to impossable. I hope this helps.
John
__ __
\____/
/____\
0 0
DeLorean
>From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Original Dealers
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 20:58:13 EST
>
>I dont know if this lists ALL of the original dealers, but included with my
>car came a brochure titled "1981 DeLorean Authorized Dealerships" or
>something of the like, listing all DeLorean dealerships across the United
>States and Canada for 1981.
>
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:43:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A frightning experience(Part 1)
Hi folks,
Let me right off the bat apologize for the length of this post.(I hope
the moderator doesn't cut it). I am sure it will provide many jokes, may
make you cringe, but will hopefully provide some guidence and some 'lessons
learned' from a fellow Delorean owner.
Let me just say that up until now my Delorean has been a great car with
minimal problems. I have taken it on two 500+ mile trips without a problem
and had considered it a reliable daily driver(although I do own a Ford
pickup which is my primary vehicle). It is a higher mileage, 1982, 5 speed.
So my girlfriend and I decide to go out to dinner. We decide to take the
Delorean. No problems until I get off the interstate to fill the car with
gas. As I decelerate, I look in the rearview to see steam/smoke rising from
the rear. Ohh noo. Also, the clutch pedal gets soft and I hear a screeching
sound(like a loose belt) coming from the rear. I ease into the station. I
fill the car, and look under the hood, a little burnt smell, but not too
bad. I look into the clutch resevoir to see it is empty. Hmmmm. I fill it
with DOT4 and decide to slowly drive home. The car is shifting OK, but
something is definently wrong with the clutch, as it makes a horrendous
sound everytime it is engaged.(I am taking the back roads so as to not go
fast on the interstate, plus I want to be in town near stuff in case
something happens). Good choice. Wait, this story is just getting good.
So I come to a stoplight and reach on the panel to turn off the
heater.(It was cold outside) I hit the headlight switch inadvertantly. No
problem. I push them back on, except for the switch sticks and they between
parking & headlights and they aren't lit. OK, so I pull over, Shut the car
off and proceed to take the A/c panel off. Only, my tools I normally carry
in the Delorean(for just this sort of problem) are in the house b/c I used
them for another project. Doh! I use a hair clip(from my girlfriend) to
loosen the screw and take the panel off. The switch is toast. It is
definently stuck, I can't get it unstuck with out taking the dash apart and
I can't 'wiggle' the switch to get them on.
I'm not too far from home, so I turn on the 4 way flashers and limp home.
I am wiggling the switch(as I drive slowly) to get the lights on and
VIOLA...headlights.(All this time I still have the shrieking clutch).Then,
they go out again one more wiggle and....the switch shorts out. It sparks.
No problem. As the smoke clears I drive. Here is the dialouge of what
happened next--
(me) There's a lot smoke.
(girlfriend) yes. It's still smoking.
(me) Is the car on fire?
(gf)I don't know.... Ummmm...It's on fire!(as smoke starts filling the
car)
(gf) Nate, the car's on fire!
(me) I know, I know!
At this time, flames start coming from the dash. I floor it, trying to
find somewhere to stop, some sort of business...something open at 8pm. I go
about 2 blocks, fire continuing, smoke filling the cabin and I spot a bakery
shop, so I make my play. I come full throttle into the parking(with no
headlights) And come screeching brakes locked in front of the front door. My
girlfriend and I evacuate the car rather quickly as the store manager comes
out in awe. My girlfriend and I can manage only two words: Fire Exinguisher!
The manager comes out, give two quick bursts in the dash to put the fire
out. My girlfriend says that this was the most exciting, awesome part of
this experience(if we can call it that) as the white powder fills the car,
out the other side(both doors were left open) and into the air. She says it
was beautiful, a la 'Back to the Future' as the smoke fills the air coming
from the Delorean. She wishes we could have gotten a picture. Somehow I
missed this moment of sheer beauty!!
So, the fire is out. We got a ride home. The Delorean spent the night in
town. Most importantly, my girlfriend and are all right. In fact, we are
laughing about this whole experience. It is definently a story to tell.
Damage to the car looks minimal, since the fire burned for 30-60sec. max. No
damage to the dash I can see. Biggest problem is the Fire Extinguisher
material(a white dust) that covers the interior. I hope we can vac that out.
(I am going to tow the car home today, so after a better look I can comment
more).
The moral of the story: BUY A FIRE EXTINGUISHER!! We were lucky the whole
car didn't burn. I never thought it would happen to me. A fire can start so
quickly...esp. in Deloreans. I need not say more; I plan to buy one today
for every car I own. Even if you just drive around the block---this fire
happened about 10miles away from my house. I hope this doesn't happen to
anyone else. I will post more after I pick up the car today and it is safe
at home. (OK, you can laugh now!!)
More info later...
P.S.--This story is dedicated to the wonderful Lucas Electronics. Quality
you can feel.(In flames...)
Nathan "Flames" Green<----My new nickname at work...
gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
_______________________________________________________
Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 18:12:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
One at a time - The smoke was probably clutch fluid on the crossover exhaust
pipe. The squeeling noise is the now-wet clutch disk. Sounds like time for a new clutch and slave. You may even have a larger leak in the hydraulic tubing, judging from your description of the "soft" clutch pedal.
RE the light switch - it is kind of a POS. I'm on my third one,
unfortunately the failure mode is pretty much as you describe, but
without the fire. My first one just melted internally and quit
working. Not much you can do to prevent this, it is just a symptom of
high-resistance (old/dirty) contacts in the switch heating up. The
second one quit latching (try driving 25 miles with your finger on
the button to keep the lights on - in a 5-speed car - in traffic).
You are probably about to find that cleaning up the fire extinguisher
remnants will be the biggest pain of this experience. I did the same
thing in a non-DMC, (i.e. shooting a dry chemical exinguisher into
the dashboard). The only way to clean this up will be to disassemble
the dash darn near to the component level. The chemical used is not
very nice stuff, you really do want to get it out of there. Keep in
mind that it is now inside the switches, radio, heat ducts etc.
Good luck - sounds like you have a couple of projects on your hands.
Keep us posted.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxx> wrote:
First, his clutch line:
>As I decelerate, I look in the rearview to see steam/smoke rising from
> the rear. Ohh noo. Also, the clutch pedal gets soft and I hear a screeching
> sound(like a loose belt) coming from the rear. . . . The car is shifting OK, but
> something is definently wrong with the clutch, as it makes a horrendous
> sound everytime it is engaged
Then his light switch:
> I push them back on, except for the switch sticks and they between
> parking & headlights and they aren't lit. . . . .The switch is toast. It is
> definently stuck, I can't get it unstuck with out taking the dash apart and. . . . Fire Exinguisher!
> The manager comes out, give two quick bursts in the dash to put the fire
> out.
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 16:40:13 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
Nate,
I didn't know weather to laugh or cry! I'm very glad you and your
girlfried are alright. I'm also glad that your Delorean is ok. That
story has opened my eyes a little. needless to say that a fire
extinguisher is going to be in my car in a matter or hours.
Thanks for the story! Glad everyone is ok
Erik Geerdink
4512
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 18:49:27 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door adjustment Tech Tip
In cooperation with Rob Grady I have created a Tech Tip on door
adjustments. It has always been difficult to know if you needed a new
strut or a torsion bar adjustment or both till now. With this Tip you
can tell if a new strut will correct your drooping doors or only an
adjustment.
First step is to remove the door strut. To do that first remove the
retaing clips on both ends. Sometimes it takes a little force to
"pop"
off the ends of the struts, especially if they haven't been removed
for a long time. Sometimes the end of the strut can even break off.
You might have to hit it with a piece of 2x4 to do it or pry it off.
Don't forget to use a prop to hold the door fully open while you
remove the strut!
Next SLOWLY lower the door. It shouldn't close all the way but
should
remain open somewhere between 2-6 inches depending on how much
tension
is in the torsion bar. This is reletively unaffected by temperature.
I measured this from the edge of the door sill to the lip of the door.
If your door is not in this range then you will need a Torsion Bar
Adjustment.
If your door is in this range and droops then you will need a strut.
You might still need a slight adjustment depending on the temperature
and age of the strut but at least you will know if you need a strut.
BE AWARE if you need to adjust the torsion bar it can be a DANGEROUS
procedure. Get help either on the phone or best if you can get an
experienced person. When you replace the strut put a dab of grease on
the ball before you pop it back on and don't forget the clips.
Overtightening a torsion bar to compensate for a weak strut will
overstress the door system so it is not recommended. You can get by
with 1-2 splines but after that you should consider replaceing the
strut. With 1-2 adjustments struts last for years.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
Technical Editor Delorean Midatlantic and Tri State Delorean Owners
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 18:54:53 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A frightning experience(Part 1)
If you are a member of the AACA or you have gone to any of the
sanctioned meets like Hershey then you are aware of the requirement of
every car on the show field to have a fire extinguisher, even the
motorcycles! I guess they knew something before us about old cars and
fires. I think every car with fuel injection should have one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxx> wrote:
> story has opened my eyes a little. needless to say that a fire
> extinguisher is going to be in my car in a matter or hours.
> Thanks for the story! Glad everyone is ok
>
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