[DML] Digest Number 321
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[DML] Digest Number 321



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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
           From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Stainless Steel Magic
           From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA"
<michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
           From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Clutch Slipping.
           From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
      5. Fuses and electrical
           From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. DMC logo
           From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
      7. Delorean for sale
           From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Subject: Lamp Relay Module disclaimer (?) 
           From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
      9. Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?
           From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 01:12:04 -0500
   From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?

Has anyone seen the ERTL/SunStar model?
(http://www.diecastmuscle.com/delorean.htm)

Worth buying?

-Dave Stragand
Vin #05927 (1:1 scale)




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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 01:56:35 -0500
   From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA"
<michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Steel Magic

I use a product called Stainless Steel Magic (same name at least) that is
an
aerosol can with a yellow lid.  This is the best stuff that I have found
out
of about 15 or 20 products that I have tried on the car.

I spray it onto the stainless then use one cloth the "smooth" it in, and
another to "buff" it out. . .always with the grain.

As an added plus, this also works great on the black trim, louvers, engine
cover, etc.  You are going to probably over spray on just about every
painted area anyways, so I use it on the entire car (minus the glass and
tires).  This is actually a hint I picked up from one of the parts
suppliers.

Michael

-----Original Message-----
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx [mailto:BondAtomic@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 6:33 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Stainless Steel cleaner


We picked up some "Stainless Steel Magic," stainless steel cleaner, and I
was
wondering if anyone knew anything about it, 



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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 09:25:23 -0500
   From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?

De Lorean Motor Company has an agreement with Sunstar for the use of 
the name and logo on the model itself and the packaging. As part of 
the deal we will be retailing the model, and while we are still 
working on the price with them, I expect we will begin taking 
pre-orders sometime next week.

I have seen photos of the model (NOT the same as the photo in the 
link below), and if it looks anywhere near as nice in real life, it's 
going to be one that everyone will want for their collection.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas

281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com

>Has anyone seen the ERTL/SunStar model?
>(http://www.diecastmuscle.com/delorean.htm)
>
>Worth buying?
>
>-Dave Stragand
>Vin #05927 (1:1 scale)



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Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 22:30:06 -0000
   From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Clutch Slipping.

Back in September when my clutch begain slipping I had it replaced 
(the old one was completely fried!). For the past 2½ month's 
everything has been going fine untill last night. Driving normaly 
everything was ok. I came to a stoplight, and was able to start out 
fine. The next two stoplights everything was normal. But then when I 
reached the next light my clutch slipped pretty good, and I had a 
VERY hard time starting out. Right now my car is driveable, but I 
can't accellerate fast. If I push the gas pedal too fast the clutch 
slips and the RPM's just shoot up. When I had the old clutch 
replaced, it took over a week to get this bad, when this happened 
last night, there was no warning at all. However When I checked the 
fluid level in the clutch it was below half full. I filled it back 
up, but no change for the clutch. Looking down from above, the slave 
cylinder appears to have a small leak. But I haven't noticed any 
stains on my garge floor from it. If this is a case of DOT4 or some 
other type of fluid/oil on the clutch plate & fly wheel: 1. How Can I 
inspect everything. 2. Is there any type of degreaser or detergent 
that I could safely spray up to clean the clutch? The other thing is 
that for a while now the salve cylinder has been rather squeeky. I 
daubed a little grease onto the piston while it was fully extended by 
having someone else hold the clutch pedal in. While this has not 
cured my problem either, the slave cylinder operates ALOT quieter now.
Anyone have any ideas?

-Robert
vin 6585 (the DeLorean from hell!)




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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 22:20:16 -0000
   From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuses and electrical

Since all the talk about fuses and electrical conatcts came up and 
how to keep them clean I figured I would throw in my 2 cents..:). 

All major Automotive makers apply a small amount of dielectric or 
equivelent grease to all connectors that are outside the car (head 
lamp conectors, tail lamps, etc). Some may go as far as applying it 
to some connectors under the hood going to sensors, fuel injectors, 
ect. 

I would suggest the following: take out the fuse and reinsert it, do 
this a few times to clean the fuse clips in the fuse block. With a 
fine grit sand paper clean off the contacts of the fuse (or simply 
replace them with new ones. Before putting the fuse back into the 
fuse block, apply a SMALL amount (I stress small amount) of non-
conductive Dieletric grease onto the fuse clips (both clips) then 
plug the fuse back in. This will protect the contacts from future 
corrosion. When you plug the fuse back into the block it will wipe 
the dielectric grease away from the metal (so it can make contact) 
but it will remain around the outer edges of the connector and clips 
making sort of a "barrier" from the elements. I would not suggest 
using Kopr-Shield only becasuse it contains copper in the grease. If 
the fuse gets warm enough for the grease to run a little, you then 
have a risk of a short.

Take a look at Permatex's dielectric grease, says it can be used on 
fuses and a wide variety of other electrical connectors:  
http://www.permatex.com/news/00/pr001104b.asp

Steve
"Seasons Greetings"
www.dmcman.homestead.com




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Message: 6
   Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 15:08:37 EST
   From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: DMC logo

Just out of curiousity....

I was at Universal Studios Florida during the summer, and also in summer 
1998. I noticed that on *most* of the brochures for the park, the lighted 
displays, billboards, and things found within the BTTF ride, that all the 
pictured depicting the DeLorean do not feature the DMC logo on the front
of 
the car. However when I went to the park when BTTF the ride first opened,
the 
DMC logo was indeed featured on the brochures, billboards, etc.

So whats up? I higly doubt DMC Houston would ever disallow the use of the 
logo. If they did Im sure Steven has a great reason. Any idea whats up
with 
this?

Justin
5172



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Message: 7
   Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 23:20:24 -0000
   From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean for sale

No, not mine.
A young guy about 20 miles from me is selling a Delorean.  I believe 
it is actually his grandpas, but is at his house.  His grandpa bought 
it brand new in 1982 from Dan Pfieffer in Grand Rapids Michigan.  I 
went and checked it out after work today to report to the list
Its a 1982 VIN 11227.
2700 actual miles,
original tires,
doesn't look like any of the upgrades were done to it,
headliners are saggy, but he is in the process of replacing them,
gray interior is in great shape,
starts up fine...i didn't get to drive it since there is a snow storm 
outside right now.
fascias look ok,
the drivers side window is off track,
the stainless steel is straight, but they have a lot of tree sap on 
them,
engine looks good...still has original coolant bottle,
frame is rust free,
i saw a small coolant leak up front on the passenger side,
the electrical compartment looks untouched...i did notice an old 
mouse nest.  I don't think that compartment has been opened since it 
was brand new.  the fuse box is not melted.
The guy doesn't seem to know anything about deloreans.  his grandpa 
let him drive it this summer and now he wants to sell it.  his 
parents want it out of the garage ASAP and is willing to go below his 
asking price of $18,000 if it means getting the car out sooner.  It 
comes with all the paperwork from when they bought it new.
Heres my $.02:
For what he is asking it is a great buy.  He is willing to go down in 
price which is more of a plus.  They want it out of the garage ASAP 
and would probably be willing to go down to 16K or 17K.
I like to help people out when I can so this is why I am posting this 
for him.  he is not connected to the internet, so if you are serious 
about buying this delorean, please e-mail me and I will give you his 
phone number.  If you decide to buy it and are within the general 
area of Michigan, I have a flatbed trailer that I could help you out 
with.  Any question, please let me know.

Thanks
Erik Geerdink
4512




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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 19:24:06 EST
   From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Subject: Lamp Relay Module disclaimer (?) 

 
For those of you that sent an e-mail to me: Send either a fax number 
or your address and I will explain via fax or snail mail. 

For those of you that have posted questions about the modification: 
My intent was to make the basic information available, but I am not an 
electonics expert and it is beyond my capabilities to answer any in 
depth technical questions. 

Having said that, I do know a few things about electronics and I 
believe that the modification could handle two additional courtesy 
lights and that the timing is not adjustable. 

To forestall additional questions, the following is a very brief
explanation: 
"This lamp delay module contain a cirquit board, the heart of the module
is a 
RCA integrated cirquit, four 2-input NAND gates and a MOS FET. 
The cirquit operates as a one-shot,  triggered when the doors 
are closed. The MOS FET  is biased during this interval, 
illuminating the dome lights. 
The one-shot times out approximately 90 seconds later. 

Roger 
VIN 1074, (with an LDM that works. Sort of.) 
>>>>>>>>>>> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 19:41:12 -0800 (PST)
   From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar/Ertl 1:18 DeLorean?

although i haven't seen the die cast DeLorean, Sunstar makes nice models.
Anything in the 1/18 scale is of good quality in general, simply because
they are fairly large models (around 10 inches long). I think $25 is a
bargain, compared to the other die cast DeLorean, which is much, much
smaller (isn't it only 2 inches long?) and ten times the price. I collect
1/18 scale die cast cars and am very excited about the DeLorean coming
out. -Louie




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