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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Interesting story!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. DMC of Houston
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: No Heat :hot water valve?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: starting problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 15:41:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Interesting story!
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>He
> then proceeds to tell me that his friend was crazy because he bought
> it from the American Express catalog back in the 80's. I stopped
> dead in my tracks and asked him "was is it gold?" and he
> said "Yeah...it was gold plated and it had a tan interior in it...he
> paid like $80,000 for it!" According to him his friend bought the
> car, had it delivered to him and had never driven it....has 0 miles
> on it. The guy used to lived in Wantagh Long Island, NY and had long
> since moved to CA. I was bummed because I wanted to go see it. Any
> way...that's my close encounter to seeing a Gold Delorean in
> person....almost :(.
>
> Steve
I believe that the gold D up in Reno came from California, specificly
Pasadena, I think. Anywho, as was explained to me last time I was in Reno,
the insurance was so high, that he simply donated the car to the Harrah's
collection in Reno. I think that the insurance quote on the plaque in
front of the
car stems from this. It also says that the name of the person who owned it
was
Sherwood Marshall. Did you happen to get the guy's name?
Now for another related note, here is some new info on the car. I friend
of
mine was in Reno a couple of weeks ago, and went to see the car. It was
explained to him that the AMEX cars were given a unique model code.
Regular stainless DeLorean's are designated as "DMC-12". But the gold cars
have the model # of "LK". My firend questioned the woman, but she stated
that
their paperwork on the car lists is as an LK. So I guess now we finally
know
where Sunstar got that desigation for the model cars from. Any chance that
James, or someone else down in Houston might have a bit more info on this?
Here's a pic from another DML'ers web page that shows a picture of it.
http://www.isd.net/jpatrick/delorean/pics/gold15.jpg
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 15:41:56 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC of Houston
Hello,
My name is Shannon. I've been reading the archives of the newsletter
and have gotten familiar with a lot of issues. Next Saturday, OCT
19th, DMC of Houston is having an open house to celebrate their new
location. IF you want to attend, be sure to RSVP.
Shannon
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:54:20 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Heat :hot water valve?
Get on your knees and look behind the front right wheel. You will see
two small hoses curving upward by the frame. When the engine is
running and hot those hoses should also be hot. If they aren't then
either the heater circuit is blocked or bypassed. To see the heater
valve you have to look hard. It is all the way foward of the engine
and down on the right side just off center. If the motor never warms
up because of a bad thermostat or the cooling fans running continuosly
you won't get any heat either.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> I looked again and cannot see this valve anywhere. I even climbed on
> top of the engine so i could see down behind it and I cannot find
> this valve anywhere. I think that a previous owner may have removed
> the valve and bypassed the heater core...
>
> Adam
>
> > > On Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:07:19 -0000 "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> writes:
> > > My car hasnt had heat since I bought it. I looked for the hot
> water
> > > valve but could not find it anywhere in the engine compartment.
> > > Where
> > > is this valve usually located?
> > >
> > > Adam
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:57:09 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: starting problem
Inspect the fuse block. If the wire connectors have slipped back and
are not engaging the fuses it may look like the fuse is fully inserted
but it doesn't touch the connector.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, <eric@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Everyone!
>
> I'm a new owner (2 weeks) and I've already hit my first snag. I was
removing some non-standard wiring from the fuse block that a previous
owner had installed for a cellphone. The wires jumped into fuses 11
and 17. Afterwards, my car ran fine but I had lost all systems the
fuse 11 powered. I inspected the socket and saw that the add-in jumper
had expanded the socket, so the fuse alone wasn't able to make a
connection. I plugged the jumper back in (sealing off the other end of
the jumper wire so the power couldn't go anywhere) and now the car
won't start. She'll turn over, the fuel pump engages when I try to
start it, and all the fuses are good. I've loosened a fuel line going
to an injector just a little and saw gas coming out when it was
starting. I've check to see if the spark plugs are getting spark,
which they are.
>
> If anyone has any ideas, please share!
>
> Thank you!
>
> Eric Itzel
> Vin #04433
> Sevierville, TN
> Eric@xxxx
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 23:59:36 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.
Turn the three brass screws clockwise. LGHTLY seat them closed. Now
find and fix ALL of your vacuum leaks and make sure the idle motor is
hooked up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I announced yesterday that after doing a tune up twice (or at
least
> dismantling it twice) I was able to get the car running again. Even
though
> I had a small vacuum leak, I was proud of being able to finally get
it
> running again. I took it to work today, and it ran fine except for
it had
> hardly any power below 3,000 rpms, but still ran relatively smooth.
When I
> took it to lunch, the idle was extremely low, and I found the wires
on the
> connector at the idle speed motor were damaged.
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