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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Stainless Cleaner
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Charlotte NC owners
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. "A" pillar mouldings and antenna
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
4. Re: AUTO transmission life...LONG
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
5. Re: fuel pressure tester
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: MY tight steering problem!
From: "Robert Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. '81 DMC still for sale
From: Corey Stup <corey@xxxxxxxx>
8. Update Unknown Object
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Delorean costs
From: "chrissy_777uk" <wasnotwas@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Delorean costs
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Northstar DeLorean
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Delorean costs
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: MY tight steering problem!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: fuel pressure tester
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Stainless Cleaner
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Stainless Cleaner
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Who makes the DMC 5-speed?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
From: James LaLonde <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: AUTO transmission life...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Who makes the DMC 5-speed?
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
24. Delorean Sighting on TV
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
25. Re: Auto Tranny governor fix.. Questions!!!
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 19:56:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless Cleaner
I don't have any experience with that product, but I picked up two cans of Stainless Steel Cleaner/Polish (made by Johnson Wax I believe... comes in Blue aresol cans) last week from Lowes for $4 a can... I can't imagine anything working any better. Perhaps someone from DMC Houston could pop in and say why the cleaner/polish they sell costs around 6 times of what I bought at the hardware store? I'm just interested :-).
Louie Golden
#10115
PS- I am not affiliated with Lowes, or Johnson Wax... just a happy customer of both! :-)
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 20:05:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Charlotte NC owners
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to drop a note letting the Charlotte NC area owners/enthusiasts know that I finally got to drive my DeLorean to college this week. I think it would be cool to meet all of you guys, so if you are interested in getting together, please drop me an email at Louie(AT)DeLorean.com. Thanks!
Louie Golden
#10115
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 23:10:14 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: "A" pillar mouldings and antenna
Question one: How do the "A" pillar mouldings come off (w/o damage)? Mine
are stubborn and don't seem to yield to a good pull/pry.
Question two: I have a fixed antenna on the RF fender and want to
replace it w/ a power (or hidden windshield mount) antenna but, what to do
with the hole left in the fender?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 23:34:43 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: AUTO transmission life...LONG
You do not have to worry about the Automatic transmission. It is pure
myth as to their failure rate in the DeLorean. Calculate the replacement
costs of the automatic governor computer, filter, gasket, fluid, etc., VS the
replacement cost of the 5 speed's clutch, slave & master cylinder, SS braided
hose, adjustable link, fluid etc. The maintenance is less expensive on the
Automatic DeLorean. However, the fuel economy will be marginally better in
the 5-speed than the Automatics if both cars are driven conservatively.
To give you some historical information, one of the myriad of myth's
surrounding the DMC is that the number of Automatic DeLoreans was
significantly less then the number of manual transmission built..."they (DMC)
built less automatic's than 5-speeds."
To correct this myth, every car company, including DeLorean Motor Company
must qualify and meet the current 1981 Corporate Average Fuel Economy,
commonly referred to as CAFE. The CORPORATE AVERAGE FUEL ECONOMY was Enacted
by Congress in 1975, the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) program
mandates all manufacturers selling in the US to meet certain fuel economy
levels. This also relates to the amount in 5-speeds & automatic transmissions
the designate of reach model year. (There is a plethora of info about CAFE on
the web.)
DMC was required to manufacture equal amounts of Automatic and 5-speeds.
I have a telex from Renault to DMC (JAMES where are they?) Belfast listing
the number of 1981 engines, 50% were Automatic and 50% were manual.
To correct another myth is Automatic equipped cars are slower or less
enjoyable than 5-speeds. The enjoyment aspect is subjective, however I'm
confident that if DMC currently manufactured luxury/sports cars of the
caliber that was in their objective, they would offer the
Ferrari/Maserati/Porsche F-1 style automatic transmission, which are much
easier to drive as well as much more expensive, as well as faster in some
cases that their 6 speed counterparts.
The R-30 sedan transmission utilized in the DeLorean is a reliable unit.
However, it is a limited performance transmission. Limited...their are no
shift kits, high preformat torque converters, etc., available for the Renault
R-30. There are rebuild kits and service parts, along with regular fluid
changes and correct maintenance of the CV axle's and boots, you should not
encounter any difficulty with the automatic DeLorean.
The computer issue arises from time to time here on the list. The issue
is the poor quality control with regard to the manufacture of the circuit
boards and solder joints from our brothers in France. A malfunctioning
computer can and has caused sudden premature downshifting, overrunning the
car and damaging the unit.
Marc Goldstone of Los Angeles circa 1980s, provided a plug in type
devise to prevent "Reverse Electromagnetic field or EMF" on the computer. The
devise plugged in at the diagnostic socket on the COMPUTER, not the engine
socket, the transmission socket.
I have tracked down one of these devises, however I have not been able to
test this devise since I sold my Automatic, reliable daily driver DeLorean.
Another owner, Harold McElcraft in Chatam, New Jersey has such devise on his
Automatic DeLorean and has reported no problems with the devise as well as
the Automatic DeLorean. He originally purchased a 5-speed in 1981 and
switched to an automatic DeLorean.
In addition, the owner of DeLoreanOne in Chatsworth drives an Automatic
with 500,000+ miles on his DeLorean.
The common problem with the DeLorean is that they were purchased
primarily as investment pieces. Translated into DeLorean Mailing list
language, means they have sat for a long time and are now starting to come
out of the woodwork. The extended period which the car were stored,
compounded with unfamiliar mechanics that attempted to repair the car, could
add to your diagnosis of issues and discovery of needed repairs.
The seals and gaskets are 20+ years old, the cooling hoses on the
automatic, etc., are old and brittle. If you question the integrity of the
engine of transmission seals, have your car inspected by a DeLorean vendor or
specialist at your next event.
I hope this gives you a boost in confidence about the Automatic DeLorean.
Sincerely,
Michael R. Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 23:57:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure tester
On Sun, 10 Feb 2002, Dave Sontos wrote:
[snip of very useful instructions that should wind up in the tech section]
> Now shutoff the engine and watch the pressure, it should stabilize around
> 25-35 psi and stay there at least for twenty minutes.
bwahahahahaha. Pressure started at 18, shot to 75 when the valve was
closed, stabilized at 51, dropped to 18 the second the car was shut off,
and to zero about 15 seconds later.
Given that:
a) the accumulator is < two years old and
b) info garnered from other sources indicates that the pressure will drop
fairly slowly if the fault is in the accumulator
...I see in my future...a fuel pump.
Thanks much.
Noah
#2867
Impossible, sir. It's in Johnson's underwear.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 01:19:32 -0500
From: "Robert Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MY tight steering problem!
I had a similar problem with mine. Lubricating the universal joints fixed
it and it's been fine for about four years now. I used Marvel Mystery Oil
but I'm sure anything will work.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 01:38:31 -0500
From: Corey Stup <corey@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: '81 DMC still for sale
My car is still for sale. A few tire-kickers, but no one has spoken for
her yet.
'81, #1905, black int, 5sp. I can email complete conditions upon
request. Great car, I just don't have the time to enjoy it as I
thought I would.
Pictures available at: http://www.stup.net/delorean I still have the
original wheels.
$16900.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:09:42 -0000
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update Unknown Object
Hello everybody
I have finally found what the little piece was for and I have to say
that Walter was right. I found two little holes in the upholstery of
the lower door panels (almost impossible to see), and the piece fits
perfectly. I guess it fell out when the electrics in the door where
done.
Thanks for all the responses.
Regards from Belgium
Andy Verbrugghe
VIN#04610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:18:54 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
Hi All,
Just for those who haven't read my posts before: A good mate (Rich) and
I bought two non-running D's and imported them back to England. Mine's
#1458, a stock 5-speed, and has been running for several months now.
Rich's is #2727, an Island twin automatic, and was mechanically in worse
shape (cosmetically better).
In attempting to solve a problem with mine when we first got it going,
several bits were swapped between the cars. All were swapped back EXCEPT
the Control Pressure Regulator. I drove about 600 miles with Rich's CPR
in my D, and it progresively got more and more difficult to start, and
ran more and more roughly while warming up. Until one evening when the
car wouldn't start at all. It wouldn't even fire on a single cylinder.
On examination, the air flow sensor was extremely stiff to depress. When
I loosened the Control Pressure line (the one from the top of the
metering head to the CPR), the metering head plunger moved freely again
and the air flow sensor loosened up (petrol leaked from the loosened
line unsurprisingly). I took off Rich's CPR and swapped mine back. My
car started first time and has run fine ever since. The Air flow sensor
is considerably lighter to depress (engine off).
:On Saturday, we got around to attempting to start #2727 for the first
time. Knowing there was something up with the CPR I took it apart. It
was completely clean inside. I blew through both ports with the shop
air-hose and if there was a blockage, it's gone now! (I could feel air
passing through). I also undid those four small flat-head screws and
removed and cleaned the components underneath. (two little plates and a
funny little cap in between). I then reassembled everything. As soon as
the pump got petrol into the CPR, the air flow sensor went really stiff
again.
I have no idea how this device works, but if anyone has any
hard-and-fast solution for this apparent blockage, please let us know!
Secondly, On #2727's engine, there's a vacuum hose which apparently has
no business being where it is. Dave Stragand very kindly supplied us
with the Island documentation, and there's nothing in it about this
particular hose. He confirmed there's no such hose on his engine.You can
see it in this picture
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02382.JPG
It's the the right of the centre of the picture, and comes out of the
left hand manifold. This hose goes off into a T-piece and one of the
connecting hoses disappears off into the frame at the far left of the
engine bay (around the same place as the A/C hoses). The other hose is
hanging off it loosely. There's about enough length to get it to the
charcoal cannister but no apparent port or connection for it. Anyone any
ideas? I've blocked it with a screw for now. What does the charcoal
cannister do? Currently all three hoses on the diagram are connected.
Lastly, in talking to Dave Stragand, and reading up as much as I can
about turbocharging (including picking the brains of firstly an engine
tunng expert, and secondly a friend who has a raft of self-taught
knowledge on turbocharging). The Island system on #2727 has no cats and
employs these very simple pressure sensors on the left intake manifold
to detect when the system's under boost and disconnects the lambda
sensor, putting the lambda computer into "slightly-rich" mode. In other
words, it's a cheap and cheerful way of putting more fuel in the
cylinders when under boost. In my searching the web, I found this
intriguing product and one of the comments from the tuning expert was
"this would be very useful on a modified engine"
http://www.milford.ndirect.co.uk/kstar.html
Has anyone seen this product before?
#2727 does not have a knock sensor either, nor does/did it have a
re-curved rotor arm (it needed replacing anyway). I think in combination
with the K-star, the potential for fine tuning an Island twin engine is
huge.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:30:26 -0000
From: "chrissy_777uk" <wasnotwas@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean costs
[Moderator Note: Yes, I know this post comes close to the "I want to buy a DeLorean for a song" level. You are reading it because in this case I know that some DML subscribers have first hand knowledge of the subject. I expect intelligent comment. - Mike Substelny, signing on as this week's moderator]
I am in the process of saving for my delorean (I'm 18) and was
wondering what the verdict is on the 'cheap' cars that I often find
advertised (under $10000) and whether they are reliable. Also, how
much is the average insurance policy?
I've also found a nifty way of making some extra money by reading
emails...I was sceptical at first too. But it works. Visit:
http://www.zwallet.com/index.html?user=chris_burke
and check it out. Its definitely worth it.
Thanks for any future reply to the questions.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:29:33 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean costs
Chris, from your address it looks like you're in the UK. You need to
join the club and rather than bore the rest of the DML with my tale all
over again, give me a ring (contact details on the website). I bought my
car for $7500 and imported it as a non-runner. It's now fully driveable
and running wonderfully (apart from the exhaust blowing and making it
sound like a beetle). I can enjoy it while I gradually sort out all the
cosmetics.
Secondly, from the URL you posted, it looks like you get credit for
referrals (it has your name in it). I'm surprised the moderator let that
through.
Martin
#1458
www.delorean.co.uk
chrissy_777uk wrote:
>I am in the process of saving for my delorean (I'm 18) and was
>wondering what the verdict is on the 'cheap' cars that I often find
>advertised (under $10000) and whether they are reliable. Also, how
>much is the average insurance policy?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:58:37 -0500
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Northstar DeLorean
Does anyone know the final selling price for the Northstar DeLorean that was being sold on Ebay? If someone on this list spoke to the seller, what were the necessary fixes needed after the purchase? There must have been some.
Marvin Stein
was #4239 ( an '81 ), and previous to that, an '83.
- now again looking
- email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:45:38 -0000
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean costs
Hi Chris,
I recently ( few months ago) purchased a DeLorean that was just under
$10,000 dollars. My car had been in storage for over 10 years prior
to me buying it, the owner decided to attempt to get it running
sucking 10 years worth of grime and stale gas through my entire fuel
system. I went a view a few cars in your price range, and saw a few
cars in the $14-18k price range. There is a huge diffrence in
conditions and reliablity of the cars. Cars that may have been in the
lower price range looked ok, but would have been huge amounts of money
to make them reliable. So int he end your paying no matter what. My
stored car is running now and has had large amounts of parts and
mechanical restoration to get it as far as it is now. Now i have a
car that is reliable, SAFE ( being the main word here, we all love our
cars but were in no hurry to die in them), and is cometicly
exceptional and with low miles. The discounted rate i got my car at
was nice up front, but the thousands of dollars to get it going could
be bad for you privding your nto expecting it or don't have it (i knew
what i was getting into before hand). My advice to you is gow buy a
reliable car, gets som good driving experiance under your belt so you
have lower insurance, a reliable daily driver car, and later on a fun
sports car.
- Shain
#10140
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "chrissy_777uk" <wasnotwas@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I am in the process of saving for my delorean (I'm 18) and was
> wondering what the verdict is on the 'cheap' cars that I often find
> advertised (under $10000) and whether they are reliable.
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:26:53 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MY tight steering problem!
You have two separate problems. No amount of lubrication is going to
help with excessive play in the steering. To determine the source of
the looseness someone turns the steering wheel back and forth while
someone else looks for the source of the missing movement. It is going
to be the column universals, rack, or tie rod ends.
For the tightness lubrication MAY help. If it is not the universal
joints it will most likely be the rack in which case both problems may
be solved with the replacement of 1 part. It is dangerous to drive a
car with the symptoms you describe as high "break out" forces make it
hard to make small driving corrections. Play in the steering could
also cause high rates of wear on the tires not to mention difficulty
staying in your lane! Check the air in your tires as low pressures
could cause the steering to be harder than it should. 23 psi for the
front-30 for the rear 60 for the spare. As per decal in glove box.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> hey everyone,
>
> last year my D had an intermittent problem with the steering, and
now that i
> have my car running again after major service, i took it out this
weekend and
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:38:47 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure tester
What were the symptoms that made you think to check the fuel system
pressures? In many cases the symptoms can tell you what the problem is
without the need to actually check pressures. In some cases it is
helpful to use the gauges to confirm the diagnoses but not required.
The fuel pressure accumulater causes hard hot start problems when it
is bad. Although other things can also cause this there are things
that can be done to confirm a bad accumulater without resorting to
gauges. A bad or missing check valve on the fuel pump might be causing
your system rest pressure to crash. Replace the fuel filter and cut
the old one open, if it is full of black chunks the accumulater is
gone. (An accumulater 2 years old is not immediatly suspect). A fuel
pump may not be bad if the suction hose is collapsing causing the
pressure to fall. Using gauges requires you to interpet the results
correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Noah <sitz@xxxx> wrote:
[moderator snip]
> bwahahahahaha. Pressure started at 18, shot to 75 when the valve was
> closed, stabilized at 51, dropped to 18 the second the car was shut
off,
> and to zero about 15 seconds later.
>
> Given that:
>
> a) the accumulator is < two years old and
> b) info garnered from other sources indicates that the pressure will
drop
> fairly slowly if the fault is in the accumulator
>
> ...I see in my future...a fuel pump.
>
> Thanks much.
>
> Noah
> #2867
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:22:41 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless Cleaner
I have some of this cleaner and it works great, but be ready to do a lot of
rubbing. If you do not buff it all off after a few days you will see it in
the grain. Then the only way I have found to get rid of it is with acetone.
I have also found that if you call Meguiars and talk to a rep or see one at
a show they will send you a total car sample pack.
Andrei
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "DeLorean News" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 5:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Stainless Cleaner
> Hello all,
> One day last week I was checking out Meguiars web
> site to see what all the products were that they have.
> I decided to email them and ask them if the had anything
> non-abrasive that would shine up the stainless steel
> skin of a
> DeLorean. Heres the reply I got back. Has anyone ever
> tried this stuff?
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:59:39 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Stainless Cleaner
The issue of cleaners comes up often.
I think I did try the Johnson Wax stuff, and was unhappy.
While most of the assorted cleaners do a decent job of cleaning, most are oil based and leave a thin film of oil on the stainless. Some people like this, some dont.. I dont like it at all. I like the dull flat look better. The oil also seems to attract and hold dirt, so you would need to clean it more often.
-----Original Message-----
From: Louie G [mailto:louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 10:56 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Cleaner
I don't have any experience with that product, but I picked up two cans of Stainless Steel Cleaner/Polish (made by Johnson Wax I believe...
[moderator snip]
Louie Golden
#10115
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:24:21 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
Are you asking about the hose that connects to the intake next to the pressure switch? If so, my Island engine also does NOT have that, but it is possible that this hose makes it way up to the dashboard for a vacuum/pressure gauge. On my car I have a hose attached to a nipple at the back of the left side (near the firewall) that goes to the gage. I don't know why it would also go to the canister, unless the nipple under the intake (behind the water pump, hard to see with the intake on but you can do it) is capped of, and connected to that "T"... Or even worse, the hose fell off of that nipple and the previous owner could not figure out where the hose went and just added the "T" to get it going, if so you will run lean with air being sucked in to that hose connection.
I have though about modifying the fuel system, and that K-star (at quick glance) looks like it could be useful. However, if I were going to do all of that, I'd go for a full electronic fuel injection system like Jim (jwit6) discussed a few months back. Based on the work he did, that system could be easily configured (the computer is designed to) to work with the turbochargers. You will also get the added benefit of removing the stock air flow meter which I suspect is a *HUGE* restriction when the turbos start to pull air through it. And say BYE BYE to that 70's technology fuel system! I would have done this to my Island engine, but it is now sitting on my garage floor with no plans to reinstall it. I have considered this type of modification to the Legend engine that will be going in to this car (if I ever get my transmission back! *EHEM*), but am torn between Performance VS "stock". I'd love to see a EFI Island TT, I expect it to have improved performance and reliability.
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 5:19 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
Hi All,
<SNIP>
Secondly, On #2727's engine, there's a vacuum hose which apparently has
no business being where it is. Dave Stragand very kindly supplied us
with the Island documentation, and there's nothing in it about this
particular hose. He confirmed there's no such hose on his engine.You can
see it in this picture
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02382.JPG
It's the the right of the centre of the picture, and comes out of the
left hand manifold. This hose goes off into a T-piece and one of the
connecting hoses disappears off into the frame at the far left of the
engine bay (around the same place as the A/C hoses). The other hose is
hanging off it loosely. There's about enough length to get it to the
charcoal cannister but no apparent port or connection for it. Anyone any
ideas? I've blocked it with a screw for now. What does the charcoal
cannister do? Currently all three hoses on the diagram are connected.
Lastly, in talking to Dave Stragand, and reading up as much as I can
about turbocharging (including picking the brains of firstly an engine
tunng expert, and secondly a friend who has a raft of self-taught
knowledge on turbocharging). The Island system on #2727 has no cats and
employs these very simple pressure sensors on the left intake manifold
to detect when the system's under boost and disconnects the lambda
sensor, putting the lambda computer into "slightly-rich" mode. In other
words, it's a cheap and cheerful way of putting more fuel in the
cylinders when under boost. In my searching the web, I found this
intriguing product and one of the comments from the tuning expert was
"this would be very useful on a modified engine"
http://www.milford.ndirect.co.uk/kstar.html
Has anyone seen this product before?
#2727 does not have a knock sensor either, nor does/did it have a
re-curved rotor arm (it needed replacing anyway). I think in combination
with the K-star, the potential for fine tuning an Island twin engine is
huge.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:25:46 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Who makes the DMC 5-speed?
I have seen a lot of published information on the DMC Automatic trans, built by ZF. Does anyone know who build the Manual gearbox? and what other cars it may have been used in (even if it was front engine).
Thanks
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:06:06 -0800 (PST)
From: James LaLonde <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
hey, c'mon people. read the topic. have a sense of
humor.
the fact is, the delorean *was* poorly made, hands
down.
if you refute that, you're misinformed.
even a rusted out ford pinto can be made into a
reliable, nice car... given work and cash.
deloreans can be and are reliable, but only if made
so.
it was a joke. Don't worship the car... it's far from
perfect.
but don;t get me wrong, it's still is and always will
be my dream car. I love my 001697.
-james
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:13:22 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AUTO transmission life...
You said:
" Someone told me I would be lucky to hit 50k miles without rebuilding
it. Is this true or just another rumor."
Not so; both the automatic and manual transmissions have extremely low
failure rates with the exception of the governor computer. Our failure rate
data base stops at 150k miles and up to that point the failure rate is just
as low as 25k miles.
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 12:26 AM
Subject: [DML] AUTO transmission life...
> Hi,
> My trans gov was replaced at 16k miles as it started to act funny. I
> replaced it and drove it 5k miles since and it has performed perfectly. I
> was wondering about the failure rates of the auto transmission. I take
> care of it and have added several magnets inside of the pan for safety.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 22:53:58 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Who makes the DMC 5-speed?
Renault. It even has tiny Renalt labels in the body casting. It was
used as a front-driver in the Renault Turbo Fuego in the US, also in
the early 80s. Probably a rarer car than the DeLorean!
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> I have seen a lot of published information on the DMC Automatic
trans, built by ZF. Does anyone know who build the Manual gearbox?
and what other cars it may have been used in (even if it was front
engine).
>
> Thanks
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:52:34 -0800
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
All cars have issues when they are first built. There are bugs to
be worked out of pretty much all cars. However, to say that it was poorly
made, is not fair. Yes there were items, such as the door guides, that
had to be added to fix problems, but all cars have these types of hang
ups. There are many DeLoreans out there with over 200k miles on them, a
few with more than 300k. I know an owner of a car with nearly 340k miles
on his car, and besides regular maintenance it has never had work done to
it. If the car has been maintained properly throughout its life it should
still be in perfect running order.
Most owners have neglected this at some point, the ones who
bought the cars and put them in garages for 20 years, with out prep work
before hand. The owners who let their cars sit for a few years, then
started them and destroyed their fuel systems. The fact of the matter is
that the DeLorean is still around, and there are a lot of them that have
not undergone huge investments to become reliable, and still are. The
design was innovative, and has proven to hold up against time. DeLoreans
that require a large amount of money to be spent on them have been cared
for improperly at some point or another. Even modern cars have similar
problems is neglected for any extended period of time.
Trevor Johnson
Vin #'S 4055 and 6974
Publicity Director, DOA
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:10:05 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Sighting on TV
While I was waiting for NBC to show something of the Olympics I came across
ESPN2, and want do I see but a Delorean on the TV. It was on a show called
Legends of the Road and was featuring Ben Davis's Delorean.
Willie
Vin 5043
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 16:13:32 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto Tranny governor fix.. Questions!!!
I got my super sweet space age tantalum caps the other day, I ordered both
as 50V 10uF caps. On Mark Hershey's write up he wrote it as "4.7-10 uf
caps"... I took this to mean that any rating between 4.7 and 10 was okay for
both caps, but today looking at my old caps I see that one old cap is 4.7
and one is 10.
So my question is this, is it alright for these caps to have a ddifferent
rating than the originals, and is all right for both caps to have the same
rating? If these caps are just acting as filters, then it shouldnt be
important, but I dont really understand this circuit too much.
Does someone have a circuit diagram of the auto tran comp?
Thanks,
Adam 16683
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