To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 10 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Old magazine From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx> 2. Original Tires II From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: Original tires! From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: how fast was vin#502? From: jwit6@xxxxxx 5. Windshield defroster question... From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx> 6. RE: Re: Original tires! From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx 7. Re: Windshield defroster question... From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Re: Windshield defroster question... From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 9. Re: Crazy wiring. (was Fan Zilla) From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 10. Misc PRV Question. From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 17:20:36 -0000 From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Old magazine I stumbled upon an old Delorean picture that came from one of the office rooms at the Delorean plant. Its got a stainless steel looking frame and was framed in england somewhere. The picture is the same picture that is on the cover of a BRICKLINE magazine that featured the Delorean. Its the first prototype with the yellow exhaust. The picture is very stunning. In Cleveland I had John Delorean sign it. he mentioned he really liked that picture. Merry Christmas Erik 4512 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Michael Babb" <michael@xxxx> wrote: > The D also made it onto the front cover of the July 1977 Car and Driver. > With a sub caption of "First Look at America's Stunning New Sports Car. > Can't really remember all that much about the article though . . . If you > want to see what the cover looks like, check out > http://www.babbtechnology.com/mags/CarDriver/car_and_driver.htm > > There was also a July 1977 Road & Track that featured the D as well. > http://www.babbtechnology.com/mags/RoadTrack/7-77.htm > > Cheers, and happy holidays all! > > MICHAEL C. BABB > michael@xxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 10:04:00 +0000 From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Original Tires II Ken is right, mostly. There is no free lunch, it's a trade-off. I have Yokos on my other car and they are a little quieter and a little softer (not much) but the wear factor is much greater. At less than 9000 miles they are worn to the point of watching them and thinking about replacements. About the originals, 'tis true that the material changes as it ages, tends to get harder, the interesting thing about that is that it may not be of even hardness all the way through, the outermost part being that most affected by exposure to the atmosphere. For the first 100 miles or so the tires were downright "lumpy", after another 200 miles or so they quieted down and now seem very acceptable. The wear factor, as mentioned is negligible. Anyone have similar thoughts or expertise? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 18:16:23 -0000 From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Original tires! I also have NCT's on my car with just over 6K miles. They do ride hard but I have nothing to compare to as I never drove on them when new. Tires are not meant to be used that are this old. With that being said if you have a very aggressive inspection program ie: you remove the tires and inspect the tread and sidewalls, keep a close eye on inflation pressures and watch the wear pattern they can be used. I wouldn't jump in the car and drive to California on them but I have driven them as long as 4 hours at a time. You must watch for any change in driving charactoristics and feel for delaminations in the sidewalls. Tire technology has improved since these tires were made so with the right choice you can improve safety and handling over what was "state of the art" in 1981. The only reason I still keep the NCT's on is for origionality. If I had an extra set of rims I probably would change them. Using a premium tire cleaner with UV protection is useful to keep them looking new and prevent "dry rot". In the offseason raise the car and keep away from ozone producing sources like electric motors with brushes and sunlight. If you want a relieable tire you can trust put the NCT's away and get a modern tire. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 13:54:09 EST From: jwit6@xxxxxx Subject: Re: how fast was vin#502? In a message dated 12/24/01 11:35:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes: << What I find most intreging about the LEGEND set up in fuel management. Turbo and supercharged D suffer from inadequate fuel management at higher rpm. THis is compensated for in many cases by over suppling fuel by shorting the computer to fuel rich. (Sometimes even this is inadequate). Based on my experience with Delorean engines, legend has to make changes to the bosch injectors to make their setup work properly. Has anybody out there put larger injectors in this car? I know I can easily do this on other cars that are hot rodded. >> Bob, IMHO, once you're resigned to improving the PRV, it seems foolish to me to consider keeping the K Jetronic CIS. The ease with which this engine accepts EFI makes me wonder why anyone going this direction would even consider keeping the CIS. Cost is always a consideration, but in reality, you can probably have EFI for less than it would cost you to replace your CIS. And anyway, if you've been entertaining yourself with a DeLorean, you should already be used to spending money. :-) With EFI, you can pick and choose the size injector you want to run and simply adjust your baseline (for the PRV) fuel flow program values across the board to compensate for the change in flow that smaller or larger injectors provide. I was running Bosch 170cc EFI injectors which flowed 16 lbs of fuel per hour. I just replaced them with 24lb injectors, and simply ran my fuel flow values down by a fixed percentage across the board, started it up and drove away. I've pretty much perfected the fabrication of fuel rails for the DeLorean. I've built 4 sets so far. Having my own metal working lathe helps a lot. If anyone would like to try EFI, I'd be glad to help them out. Jim Vin 6147 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 16:03:59 -0500 From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Windshield defroster question... It's been some time since I have asked the list for help... My car has had no problems, so I haven't needed anything! Until now... I noticed that even on setting #4, my windshield defroster barely works. All the other vents work and yes the motor is turning. Any clue as to what the problem may be? I did replace the mode switch only a few years back so I'm sure that's not it. Any ideas? ---Dan [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 16:25:02 -0500 From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: Re: Original tires! I to had oem tires on car. The car had a tendency to slip around corners and road like a buckboard. Changed tires to Toyo proxies, 100% diffrence and feel. Jim 4149 -- __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:27:12 -0000 From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Windshield defroster question... Just refer to Workshop Manual N:09:05. It is the troubleshooting fault tree for defrost problems (screen vents). It most likely is a vacuum problem or mechanical problem with the flap that sends the air either to the footwell outlets or the windshield. Also read N:01:02-09 for an explanation of the operation of the system. There is also a good picture in the parts manual 7-3-0. Now that the weather around this part of the country got cold I guess you want it to work well! I don't know if my defrost works as I have put my car in "hover mode" for the winter. BTW make sure the fan is turning in the correct direction as if it is backwards it will still move some air but not nearly as much as it should. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxx> wrote: I noticed that even on setting #4, my windshield defroster barely works. All the other vents work and yes the motor is turning. Any clue as to what the problem may be? > > ---Dan ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:45:38 -0000 From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Windshield defroster question... Dan - This is a total "shot in the dark", but I would look at the vacuum actuators that move the various flaps around to distribute the air to different functional areas. You may have a leaky vacuum hose, or the actuator may have quit that directs air to the defrosters. In my personal experience, I had my air conditioning seemingly quit on me during a rally with temperatures over 100 degrees F. Yikes! It turned out that there is a little plastic bellcrank that connects the vacuum actuator to the air flap, and the bellcrank had broken. I made a replacement from a small piece of aluminum plate, and have had no problems in that area since. Sometimes, it's the subtle things. Merry Christmas, and may God bless you all. Toby Peterson VIN 2248 Winged1 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 04:57:04 -0000 From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Crazy wiring. (was Fan Zilla) I made a change to my fan wiring as well. I removed the "fan fail module", rewired the relay socket for that location as well as the basic fan relay location, and then installed two new 40 amp relays in the revised sockets. I now have a separate relay for each fan, so if one goes bad, I still have the other. As you know, I'm into fail safety type installations. The other change was to install heavier duty circuit breakers for each fan. The fan motors draw a huge current on startup, and then the draw tapers off for normal operation. That initial current with both fans feeding through a single relay can easily overwhelm the single 35 amp relay originally installed. I have wiring in place for a separate switch to manually activate the fans, but I haven't installed the switch yet. "So many mods, so little time". Toby Peterson VIN 2248 Winged1 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote: > > My car has had an alteration to the fan wiring. THe relay was removed and has been rewired so that it has a switch ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 05:16:30 -0000 From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Misc PRV Question. As some may know, I'm researching possible options for improving my engine. And I've found a few avenues possibility wise. But I have have gotten a few questions along the way that need answers. So, here goes. 1. Is there a mechanical distributor that can be used on the 3.0 litre PRV for even firing? 2. Is there anything unique about the Ignition ECU on the DeLorean that makes it unusable for modifications? i.e. same fire order, higher output, CIS vs. Carburetion. 3. Are the 3.0 litre pistons, sleeves, and heads compatable with the B28F block? Are modifications nessisary? 4. Aspirated vs. Turbo charged: Which is better? I've been looking at the A310 setup. While the modifications look very atractive output and ease of installation wise, I don't know that there is room in the DeLorean engine bay to fit the aftermarket competition kit. The sport version does look promising though... So there is turbo charging. I'd love to use the 3.0 litre engine, but I don't know that there are any aftermarket parts available to convert it. So far, it looks like a turbo engine would entail larger cams, and a lower compression ratio, and a port & polishing job at the very least. But even after this is complete, I then need to worry about an intake manifold. With EFI, keeping the extra plumbing from the CIS is not nessisary. Unless of course someone knows of a single carb manifold for the PRV... Just some of the ideas that I've been toying with lately. No conversion in my immediate future. But something that I am thinking about none the less... As usual, thanks in advance! -Robert vin 6585 "X" ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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