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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
2. RE: M9 1.00 bolt?????????
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: watch
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Replica SS panels
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
6. Re: watch
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Leatherique Please read
From: "flash66" <flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: trailing arm bolts
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...How to fix your Woes
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: TA Bolt questions
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
11. New Owner Questions
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: M9 1.00 bolt?????????
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Replica SS panels
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
14. Fuel Injector Question
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Epoxy on frame?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
17. Brake System Leaks.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
18. Sun Star
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Fuel Injector Question
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: New Owner Questions
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?
From: mattc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Re: Fuel Injector Question
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
23. Re: RE: trailing arm bolts and front lower control arms
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
24. Bent
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
25. Brake Booster
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 23:07:46 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
I would just like to reiterate. The 10 year old bolt 12.9 I took out of the
car was slightly bent. When I showed it to another De Lorean he couldn't even
tell it till I pointed it out.Maby 1/16th over all distance. I would think
this is pretty good for a 10 year old bolt in a turbo car. The spec are great
that Toby is pulling out, but how will it perform in the car under adverse
conditions. If you drive sensible there wouldn't be a problem. Apparently
Colin Chapman thought the 10.9 would work fine or he wouldn't have approved
it. Maybe he did over look it. But others long ago up graded to the 12.9 with
no problems. Keep up the good work Toby, It's intrusting reading all about
what your research is yielding.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/hightemp.shtml
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 22:49:52 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: M9 1.00 bolt?????????
Andy - Point your browser to www.mcmastercarr.com. They
have every kind of fastener imaginable with reasonable prices
for single pieces.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] M9 1.00 bolt?????????
hey guys,
drill it one more time and tap it for the next size up in his kit - 9M 1.00 (i
assume 1.00 is the threading). anyway, that worked well so now i go the
hardware store for a 9M bolt... uh oh. turns out there is no such thing as
a 9M bolt
Andy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 04:49:10 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: watch
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Gabriel H. Prado" <gprado@xxxx> wrote:
> I saw that watch on a Delorean web site, but can't find it now.
>
> any clues?
>
> Gabe
I had posted a pic of that watch in the dmcnews files section,but has
long since been deleated,however a real nice closeup pic can be found
at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DeloreaNews/files/Gullwing%20watch.jpg
if the pic,does not show go to Yahoo Groups Home page,and then type
in Deloreanews,once on that site,look in the files section.
Claude
000570
Windsor CT.
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 23:57:20 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
Joe, With due respect you most of the time disagree with me. So what's new.
The testing you do or the factory did was for a short time. I'm talking about
fatigue over time and weather conditions. Constant pulling, stretching, and
jerking, not just popping the clutch a few times and I pronounce you good,
lets talk about it over years and maybe one, or two clutches later. Come on,
You can go have a heart check up tomorrow and every doctor says your OK, then
drop dead tomorrow. Everybody knows someone this has happened to. I agree,
with you and relinquish to your time of working on the De Lorean that the
trailing arm bolt it probably a mute point, But, I think to the folks up
north who have to worry about salt spray and rusting it's more of a
pronounced problem. I hope Toby can come up with a reasonable priced bolt to
help ease the mind of some. But I to have worked on cars all my life also and
do know a little. The Delorean is a car not a God and a bolt is a bolt. You
can't test something for a short period of time and pronounce it good. Why do
you think the military went to a salt spray test and most mechanical parts
failed in the late 70's and eighty's, they found the conventional testing
wasn't sufficient? Race car drivers spend $1000.00's and still have a bolt
failure. Thanks for your comments, I always enjoy the exchange. By the way,
have you shipped my parts yet.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/hightemp.shtml
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 05:04:17 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Replica SS panels
Looking at my Sunstar 1/18 Delorean model,I was amazed at how
realistic the finish on the"stainless steel" body panels looked,My
question,if anybody can answer it is,is it possible to achieve the
same results,or duplicate the process,as used on the 1/18 sunstar
model on a REAL Delorean,using non-stainless steel panels,maybe
aluminum
panels or other materials,besides Stainless steel.
Claude
000570
Windsor CT.
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 00:07:43 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: watch
Gabe and others, Over a year ago my wife ordered the Machine Watch III out
of the American Air lines catalog. I think this is the catalog # AAPA700.
Phone # 800-515-5110. Cataog # was TE0340 for the watch and the price was
$39.00. It had lots of SS products in it.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 00:33:44 -0500
From: "flash66" <flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Leatherique Please read
The original post was mine that was mentioned. I really tried to get the
list to use leatherique instead of Lexol. No there ARE NO DRAW BACKS TO
ANYTHING! this stuff is wonderful. The rejuvinator oil works as indicated
with no bad after effects Just glove soft new feeling leather if used as
indicated...no fogged windows, hurting your skin, or what have you. Just a
great product that works. It will give you a new interior . the feeling
,smell and apperance are all improved. If your leather is cracked or faded
,the dye George can mix for you as well as their crack filler will make the
leather look like new regardless of the damage to the leather if used
properly. It truly is one of those products that are truthful in their
claims. Buy it, try it, you wont be sorry you did. I have sucessfully
restored the interiors of my D and my Lotus Esprit, as well as my wifes 91
Infinity Q45.
The results are nothing short of amazing!!! Words of the wise, Tell George
or the lady that answers the phone that Paul from Georgia sent you and that
if you mention you belong to a club
you should get a free bottle of prestine clean for you leather.
All the best,
-Paul Catignani #16811
Vidalia Georgia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] Leatherique
> Would appreciate an experienced (with Leatherique) person's input on this.
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 23:15:40 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: trailing arm bolts
Toby said:
> However, if the trailing
> arm bolt fails, the joint is completely lost. There is no redundancy,
> no alternate load path. A critical component with no back up, whose
> loss could result in catastrophic loss of control or major damage to
> the car.
As I noted earlier, I find it interesting that Chevrolet (where we all know
John D. used to be employed) solved this problem on the Corvette way back in
1963 by putting the rubber bushing in the end of the trailing arm and
supporting the bolt at both ends. The bolt was not subject to flexing, and
if the bushing wore out or failed it was still held in place by the arm and
bracket. So why did DMC/Lotus do it the way they did? We will probably
never know. But we do know that the stock bolts, and any of the previously
available replacements, are the weak point of this design. Like the fan
fail relays, window motors, angle drives, and door struts, its not a
question of IF they will fail but WHEN they will. But the others seldom
have catastrophic results.
I think we need to accept the expertise, research, and engineering Toby
brings to this subject, compared to the suggestions of some with
significantly less credentials. If you weren't convinced of that after
reading Toby's 11/15 and 11/16 posts, you need to go back and read them
again.
And John, a double or triple plated 12.9 bolt is still a 12.9 bolt.
Probably even less due to hydrogen embrittlement after plating.
For the record the bolts in my 300HP car are frozen in place. Luckily they
are not bent, but I know they (and I) have been on borrowed time for a long
while. Whether or not this venture goes forward, one of Toby's prototype
sets will be installed this winter.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 23:30:45 -0800 (PST)
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: More Sunstar Model Woes...How to fix your Woes
"How many other specialty car owners can say that they
have THIS much support for their marque!"
- Us Turbo Buick owners ;)
and prior to that, Monte Carlo SS owners heh
I got my Sunstar DMC-12 yesterday...and the BTTF
version is on order...I don't have the real
thing...Yet, but this is at least a start ;)
BTW - I love the attention to detail the owners of
DMC's do have and even though I don't own one yet, I'm
honored to be a part of this list.
thanks,
=====
Dan G.
87 Turbo Regal
http://entremedia.iwarp.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 08:54:48 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: TA Bolt questions
I am very glad to see one of the more respected contributors to the
List, and to the Delorean community at large, adding comments to this
ongoing discussion. I truly believe that everyone can learn
something from focused dialog. I will agree that the incidence of
total bolt failure due to fracture has a relatively low rate in the
overall fleet. However, the bolt bending and corrosion issues have a
much higher degree of incidence from my limited experience. I've
personally had one break, and the other bend, so I am particularly
sensitive to this. As I recall, in the seven cars that I worked on
at the tech session that I mentioned, including my own, we found 5 or
6 that were bent, 1 or 2 others that had wear grooves or other marks
on the shank from joint component movement, and 2 or 3 other with
corrosion and rust. So, on the low side, there were 8 bolts that had
some form of challenge. The bolts in my car were fresh due to the
earlier failures, but I put in the custom bolts anyway. Based on the
analysis of my fractured bolt, using a scanning electron microscope,
it would appear that any stress concentration could eventually lead
to fracture. Corrosion pits, and wear grooves seem to be an
invitation for a crack to start, particularly at stress levels that
are high enough to cause yielding (bending and/or stretching). It
would be very interesting to get a sense of how many owners have
experienced TAB problems, ranging from wear, to corrosion, to bending
and yielding, and to complete failure. My limited experience would
suggest between 1/3 and 1/2 of cars currently in active duty. Those
are pretty high numbers for a critical joint with no significant
structural redundancy. Would a poll be useful? I don't really know
the protocol because I'm relatively new to the list.
BTW - The current list of "interested parties" for the custom bolts
is at about 40 - 41 sets. In discussions with Darryl at Specialty
Automotive, a reasonable threshhold of 50 - 55 sets would give us the
confidence to move forward with the necessary upfront investment. I
will keep you all updated as the project nears a launch point. Let's
keep up the good dialog.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> John,
>The trailing arm bolt failure problem is highly exaggerated and
>actually has a very low incident rate. Yes; it should be of concern
>to all owners who have not inspected and or replaced damaged
>components.
>
> DMC Joe
> DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxx
> www.dmc.tv
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 12:41:19 -0000
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: New Owner Questions
Hello,
Well on my birthday (15th) i brought home my DeLorean from Ohio. It's
an 82' grey leather 5 speed, with grooves in the roof and delorean
emblem. The one nice thing about it was it was in storage in the last
8-10 years, so it is beautifuly preserved, with under 7,000 miles, but
needs some minor mechanical work. The previous owner had attempted to
clean some of the fuel out and throw some new in. Which seemed to
work ok, but still has alot of bad gas in it. He also sent the old
alternator out to be fixed because it failed, and the place that did
it destroyed. So now i am installing a new 144 amp delco alternator.
My first question is, is there a way to suck the old gas out w/o
removing the whole tank? I had attempted to to stick a narrow pipe
down with a pump i have, but it didn't work well. I also installed a
new 900+ amp battery and was able to get the car to run, but you
could tell bad gas was the culprit for the bad idle. There is a very
small amount left in it, could i just throw some cleaner/and dry gas
in it was a good amount of high octane fuel to clean it out? Another
thing the previous owner did was to cut the catyltic convert off and
jerry rig some sort of pipe to it, would the converter being off also
effect the idle? I think i asked enough questions for this post,
back to working on my car.
- Shain
#10140
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 08:50:43 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: M9 1.00 bolt?????????
That good old 9M x1 x 12 bolt. Yes, I had the same problem when building the 97
DeLorean. Since the car was originally
a 5 speed these were not on the crank shaft.
This is a real bolt size but is rearly used because of the 1.0 pitch. I believe you can
get these through DMC or the other vendors now.
5 years ago, I had to have these machined up for my cars from metric fasteners in Burr
Ridge, IL. Not cheap but without them .....
BOB Brandys
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 12:55:14 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Replica SS panels
I suppose making some kind of replica body panel might be possible, but would any DeLorean owner actually want to do that and have that on their car?
I say "Raise the Dies!" :-)
Richard
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 18:32:11 -0000
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Injector Question
I "THINK" I may be on to something, but I need the advice of a CIS
pro. I am troubleshooting a fuel problem. I removed each of my
injectors and placed them into individual metered cups. I jumpered
the RPM relay (to activate the fuel pump). Then deflected the air
sensor plate to measure what each injector was "injecting". Each one
sprays in a perfect pattern, and each one sprays an equal amount of
fuel.
Now comes the question - with the air sensor plate not deflected, and
the fuel pump still running; I noticed each injector is DRIPPING. The
dripping stops when I cut power to the fuel pump. When I reconnect
power, again not deflecting the air plate, the dripping starts again -
on each injector. Is this normal? Or is this a sign of weak
injectors? Or am I totally off base, could this be an indication that
the pressure regulator in my fuel distributor is not calibrated
properly.
If I didn't know better, the injectors look fairly new. The part
number on each is Bosch 0437 502 022 (014).
I am trying to troubleshoot the most enigmatic "over-rich" problem.
Watching my Lambda system work perfectly, trying to lean out the car -
but it can't lean it far enough.
As always I remain appreciative of any help.
Regards,
Eric
VIN# 5557
Dunedin, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 19:24:08 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Epoxy on frame?
Hi list!
It is well known by now that the Delorean frame has got a Epoxy based
coating. But does anyone on this list know what exactly was used? I have got
big problems finding a way to strip the whole frame. If I knew exactly what
was used, it would be surely much easier (for an material expert) to find a
way to dissolve this material.
Any infos? Manufacturer, product name? 2-compound or 1-compound? Hardened by
heat treatment?
Where the frames coated in the Dunmurry plant, or was this done by another
company?
bye,
Ralf.
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 20:32:15 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
> it isn't a hot rod. Toby also has liability to be concerned about when
trying
> to offer something that hasn't been tested in any kind of road or driver
> condition.
> Driver will be the worse.
> John Hervey
John! You suggested a SS316 bolt. May I ask the question, if this one is
"road or driver tested"?
Honestly, I hope it is not. The person who intends to do so will risk his
life.
Why does a person who has obviously not much knowledge on this topic doubt
the research and development of an expert? I really can't understand this.
But back to the facts:
It is surely not o.k. if a bolt is stressed beyond its limits and bents. A
bent bolt is the beginning of a big problem. There is not the question if it
will fail, but when it will fail.
It may take some time, even years, but a bent bolt is prone to failure.
As long as the frame is concerned:
I don't have any hard numbers on this one, but I trust that it can handle
the load of even abusive driving conditions. The force which can occur at
the TA bolt area cannot rise indefinitely but it is limited by the friction
of the tires on the ground. You can think of many abusive conditions:
Popping the clutch, doing a 180°-turn, emergency stop, etc.. I am sure that
there are many drivers out there who do this kind of things from time to
time. But I never heard of a frame failing or even bending (except two
cases: if it has extensive rust damage or in an accident).
You say that your 12.9 bolt was only "slightly bent". So what is the
difference for the frame if the "Toby"-bolt doesn't bend at all? My opinion:
the additional stress caused by the "Toby"-bolt is highly negligible. I bet
one could not even measure a slightest difference.
"Road Test":
If I understood Toby right, he has the new bolts installed in his own car
and in other cars. So there is indeed a road test going on at the moment.
Posting his opinion is surely not a crime, but thinking one could replace
knowledge by opinions is the wrong way. True research and development is not
based on opinions and guesses but on knowledge and facts (which have to be
gathered).
Ralf.
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 21:15:59 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Brake System Leaks.
The seal between the reservior, and the brake master cylinder on my
car is starting to leak pretty good (this seems to happen whenever
the temp drops below 60°F). Since I can't seem to find any seals for
the tank, and there is a fair amount of sludge in the bottom, I
figure I'll just pick up a new master cylinder. I'll get the kit from
PJ Grady with the seals for my calipers as well. But, I do have 1
question; Since I have sludge in my system, I figure that I'll flush
it out. As has been stated before, this will cause leaks in the
system around seals. So other than the seal to the brake booster, and
the calipers, where else should I be prepared to expect leaks? I
really wan't to keep "surprises" to a minimum.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 01:28:17 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sun Star
Got mine, beautiful! Incredible detail! Driver door stays up,
passenger door, no.
To paraphrase a DMC comrade, "if the door on a toy car is the only thing
you worry about staying up, you're in an enviable position."
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 16:47:17 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Question
Eric,
Make sure your system pressures are correct first (65 psi). If they are then
the leaking injectors must be replaced.
The definition of a leaking injector is "If a drop forms, falls from the tip
of the injector and is replaced by another drip."
High System Pressure is usually a result of a plugged return line or
inoperative system pressure regulator inside the fuel distributor.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Fuel Injector Question
> Now comes the question - with the air sensor plate not deflected, and
> the fuel pump still running; I noticed each injector is DRIPPING.
Eric
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 17:03:47 -0500
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Owner Questions
drop the tank. It is not that hard at all and if you don't get all of the
gunk out, you might clog your fuel distributor which is very expensive.
Also bad gas might cause some valves or plungers to stick. I dropped my
tank and it was so worth it. Everything worked on my car. Clean it out.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] New Owner Questions
> small amount left in it, could i just throw some cleaner/and dry gas
> in it was a good amount of high octane fuel to clean it out?
>
> - Shain
> #10140
>
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 22:44:45 -0000
From: mattc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Courtesies relay?!?!?
As you may already know that this "white relay" is not acctually a
relay it's a delay circuit. The problem with blowing all of the
fuses is most likely not an issue with the lights or wiring but is a
problem with the module. I know this is hard to understand that
lights still work when the module is removed but, this is because
they designed light circuit to be passive (for some very odd reason,
possibly future upgrades?). The module pulls the high side (+) of
the light circuit very close to ground thus diverting the current
through the module instead of the the lights (shutting the lights
off). Inside this little white box is a very complex R/C circuit with
the final stage controled by an transistor (basicly, a timer with a
voltage controled switch). The transistor is far to small for the
amount of current that it controls and considering that when the
lights are off the module is still operating with a heavy load on the
transistor, thus promting a possibility to fail. What probibly
happened is that transistor inside overheated and shorted out and
instead of limiting the current it was a wide open short to ground.
A while back I was curious why my interior lights would almost dim
and flicker before they shut of, so I opened up the box and mapped
out the circuit. In my case the capacitor inside was bad. I also
had plans to redesign this circuit but never got around to it.
Matt
Lakewood,Co
Vin# 3157
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Hello, I am wondering if you have any advice for me
> on this problem(?) Well,
> the other day I noticed that my internal lights and
> door lights were not
> turning on.
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 18:22:09 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Question
Eric, Sounds to me like it's working. If your running rich, then the pressure
needs to be checked and possible air flow meter adjusted. If the pressure is
to rich, then the primary pressure shim may need to be added. The spring over
time gets weak. This part of the rebuild of the fuel distributor.
John Hervey
www/specialTauto.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 18:39:40 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: trailing arm bolts and front lower control arms
Darrly, This why I said we will put them thru the Baking to remove the
Hydrogen. The double plating is extra for corrosion in adverse conditions.
While were talking about metal stress, Have you looked at your front lower
control arms for cracking and stress. You can also have a fatial situation
on your hands when the front lower control arms breaks. You better check
them. More are being fixed as the cars get older and driven more. We do have
the new ones but they arn't around $65.00.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
In a message dated 11/17/01 9:50:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< And John, a double or triple plated 12.9 bolt is still a 12.9 bolt.
Probably even less due to hydrogen embrittlement after plating >>
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 21:34:28 -0500
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Bent
I have a big question. My friend was leaving my house tonight, and he
accidentally hit my Delorean. He put a dent in it in the rear drivers side
panel, just underneath the signal marker. My first question is what are the
chanses of my pulling out the dent? And second is how do i go about taking
that panel off?
Thanks
Willie
Vin 5043
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 21:40:55 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Brake Booster
Hi List,
Ever since I've owned my car I noticed that it takes a lot of pedal
pressure to to slow the car down. The car has a new master cylinder and the
lines were all properly bled(no leaks). The car is still driveable but I
would like to get this fixed before I head to Memphis next June. Several
people who have driven my car noted that something was wrong with the pedal
pressure. Is there a way to test the booster? or should I look elsewhere
for the problem. The car has 21k miles on it.
Thanks
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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