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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Louvre adjusting.
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Overheating...
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
4. RE: Will Lexol remove Leather Wrinkles?
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. high low beam
From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
6. BTTF-logo
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Overheating...
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Failed emission (smog) test
From: thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Failed emission (smog) test
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
10. marker light bulb interchange
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
11. gas mileage/f valve
From: mrgolf77@xxxxxxx
12. Remote Door Openers (same subject, different topic).
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
13. Re: Failed emission (smog) test
From: jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
14. Re: Re: Overheating...
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: high low beam
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Failed emission (smog) test
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
17. Re: high low beam
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. RE: door openers
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Failed emission (smog) test
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Headlight Options (was: Xenon Headlights for DeLorean).
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
21. Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Door Openers
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
23. Re: gas mileage/f valve
From: Martin <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: marker light bulb interchange
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:01:30 +0200
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Louvre adjusting.
Hi,
My louvre is not where it should be.
It seems like it is a bit to close to the rear bumper, causing, among other
things, the louvre latch unoperative.
Here is a picture:
http://home.c2i.net/wilm/dmclouvre.jpg
My questions are:
Is the louvre supposed to be at the same hight as the roof?
Where/how do you adjust the louvre? Can't find this in the manuals.
How far from the roof (horizontal) is the louvre supposed to be?
Anyone got a picture of a well adjusted louvre?
Thanks.
Regards,
Wilhelm Starberg.
Norway - #10816
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 13:08:44 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
Andy,
You said:
> on the coldest of cold starts the engine doesn't seem to have any power
for
> the first couple of blocks. it won't give any power even though the RPM
> gauge shows that the engine speed is increasing, and i can hear it revving
> up. but the car doesn't move in proportion to that as it does when it
gets
> warmed up (after only about 3 blocks).
What you are describing here is a slipping transmission. If the engine revs
and the RPMs increase AND the car isn't moving forward, then something
somewhere is slipping. If the RPMs aren't making it to your rear wheels,
then they are dissipating as heat in your clutch plate.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:09:53 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Overheating...
Isn't the temp sensor in the LH cylinder head, so that isn't a factor?
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
>Be warned that in
> the event of a large loss of coolant you cannot trust the temp
gauge
> as there is no coolant for it to measure!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:18:45 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Will Lexol remove Leather Wrinkles?
I just had to get my seats reupholstered to get the wrinkles back! Over
time, leather shrinks as it dries. I recommend using Saddle Soap to treat
the seats to keep them from shrinking and tearing the seams.
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:11:29 EDT
> From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Will Lexol remove Leather Wrinkles?
>
> Best course of action is to leave the wrinkles in there, they
> are supposed to
> be there. This is true unless you are talking about wrinkles
> that have been
> caused by sitting in the seats and creating an "unnatural"
> wrinkle. Most
> DeLorean seats have dried up and stretched out over the
> years, thus the
> wrinkles are no longer there. You must have a nicely
> preserved set of seats,
> be happy and leave it there!
>
> Regards,
> Darren Decker
> VIN 5000.......with wrinkled seats.
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:36:15 -0000
From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: high low beam
Which headlights are the high beams? The outer or inner?
I'm having problems with a relay or something...
Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:41:47 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: BTTF-logo
Hello everyone,
I know this is slightly off-topic and that there's another group for
BTTF, but I'm not into BTTF that much...
To keep the DML clean, please respond to jan[at]vdwouw.demon.nl
Here's my quastion: can anyone provide me with the
LOGO for Back To The Future IN A VECTOR-FORMAT???
If you don't even know what vectors are please skip on to the next
message, else please read on...
Adobe Illustrator version 8.x or less would be preferred.
When sending Illustrator-files please make sure you pack the
file using WinZip of on a Mac Use StuffIt/DropStuff to prevent
corruption...
I can't suffise with a JPEG or GIF since I have to make a blowup of
about 3 feet wide from it to hang next to my car when on Display at a
semi-local music/movie-event...
There seem to be several graphics-people on the list; I've had
several responses on my "Mac-payoff" at the end of my emails,
so hopefully one of you can help me out?
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
AND REMEMBER: PERSONAL RESPONSES ONLY, DON'T USE THE LIST!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:58:11 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Overheating...
Yes it's in the cylinder head, but it is positioned such that the
sensor part is immersed in coolant. If the coolant is gone it has a
hard time telling the temperature very accurately.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, theshovel1224@xxxx wrote:
> Isn't the temp sensor in the LH cylinder head, so that isn't a
factor?
>
> John Yeoman
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> >Be warned that in
> > the event of a large loss of coolant you cannot trust the temp
> gauge
> > as there is no coolant for it to measure!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:43:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Failed emission (smog) test
Hi list,
I recently had to have my D smogged (California) and
it failed in the NO (Nitrous Oxide) Part-per-Millions
(PPM). Max. allowed is about 1100 PPM, mine output
was about 1300 PPM. Experts told me that my
Catalytic Converter is bad (my car only shows 15K
miles). Where can I find a new, inexpensive Catalytic
Converter? Is there a cross-reference part number????
Thanks list,
TV
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:20:41 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
NOS Catalytic Converers are $278.50 from DMC Houston.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi list,
> miles). Where can I find a new, inexpensive Catalytic
> Converter? Is there a cross-reference part number????
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:18:39 -0000
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
Subject: marker light bulb interchange
Does anyone know of a correct interchange for the side marker light
bulb? The last generic bulb had to be ground down by my dremel to fit
far enough into the socket to lock in.
Nick
VIN 3092
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:41:51 EDT
From: mrgolf77@xxxxxxx
Subject: gas mileage/f valve
Hi List,
I have been wondering if I should be concerned about the mileage my car
has been getting. I filled it up 5 times now and set the trip odometer and
every time. I got about exactly 185 miles until the low fuel light came on.
Once the light goes off and I put gas in it holds 10.5 gallons. So 185/10.5
is about 17.5MPG highway. I am not that hard on the car and drive highway
most of the time. I never run the A/C and don't do any city driving. Mainly
just to school and back which is straight shot 2 lane highway. The exhaust
doesn't smell strong but I guess it still could be. The frequency valve is
buzzing away but maybe not correctly. I would rather not take it to a shop
if I can help it. Is there a way to test the 02 sensor pulse? The whole
fuel system is new and I have not touched the air/mixture screw...yet.
also, when I hit the full throttle micro switch shouldn't I hear a change
with the frequency valve and a slight raise in RPMS? That is not happening.
The car starts with barely turning the key even in the cold so I think the
cold start valve is fine.
Thanks
David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 02:02:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Remote Door Openers (same subject, different topic).
Ok, I know there's been alot in the past few days said about remote
door openers, etc... So, this kinda sparked something in me to try
and get mine functioning (not again, but for the first time!). After
a bit of researching on the internet/FCC codes on the module, I've
determined that I have the "Shaved Door Handle Kit" by VPA installed
in my car. After a little more researching, I discovered that this
kit has been used on DeLoreans before (google search linked to the
DML back issues, but nothing related to my situation there). So, here
are the problems that I'm having with the kit that hopefully someone
can help me out with them :)
1. Remotes work intermidantly. (they will respond to "learning", but
won't always arm/disarm etc...)
2. Alarm doesn't go off when doors are opened.
3. Engine kill doesn't work when system is armed.
4. Drivers door refuses to open. (solenoid will click, but nothing
happens)
5. Valet mode doesn't seem to work.
6. Wires run thru to the doors get HOT! (is this normal?)
7. Dome lights do not turn on when disarmed, but the clearance lights
do!
On another note, I have no idea as to wheather or not the auto
lock/unlock feature works. My passenger side solenoid is fried, so
the control module is disconnected.
Any relays that may be installed are located under the bracket in the
relay compartment. So I'll need to remove that to see what exatly is
connected down there.
On a side note, I would reccomend that anyone considering this kit
AVOID IT! Past notes all seem to indicate that it was difficult to
install, and I recieved a VERY rude response when I called VPA
directly to try and obtain an installation guide to help me sort
things out. I wasn't asking for tech support, just a copy of an
installation/owner's manual. The guy then told me I'd have to fax
pictures of my module and wiring harness to him so he could determine
which system I had.
If anybody has any of these items, I'd love to get a copy to try and
work things on the system out. And if anyone is looking for a kit to
install into their own car, take my advice. No matter which product
you choose, BUY FROM A DELOREAN VENDOR! No matter what, all the
products will be designed to work with your car, and you'll have the
service and support you can expect from a typical DeLorean vendor.
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:58:57 -0000
From: jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
Most auto-parts chain's offer an additive for the gas/oil that should
allow most cars to pass smog within reason. I have no personal
experience but know of several people that couldn't pass before using
it and could afterwards.
In either case it's a cheap thing to try and with most places in
California offering pass or don't pay it only helps.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi list,
> I recently had to have my D smogged (California) and
> it failed in the NO (Nitrous Oxide) Part-per-Millions
> (PPM). Max. allowed is about 1100 PPM, mine output
> was about 1300 PPM. Experts told me that my
> Catalytic Converter is bad (my car only shows 15K
> miles). Where can I find a new, inexpensive Catalytic
> Converter? Is there a cross-reference part number????
>
> Thanks list,
> TV
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
> http://phone.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 22:10:27 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Overheating...
The key words here are "Large coolant loss".
----- Original Message -----
From: <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 5:09 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Overheating...
> Isn't the temp sensor in the LH cylinder head, so that isn't a factor?
>
> John Yeoman
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> >Be warned that in
> > the event of a large loss of coolant you cannot trust the temp
> gauge
> > as there is no coolant for it to measure!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 22:12:37 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: high low beam
The outboard headlamps are dual beam high/low and the inboard lamps are
highbeam only. When the high beams are on all four lamps light.
----- Original Message -----
From: <scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 5:36 PM
Subject: [DML] high low beam
> Which headlights are the high beams? The outer or inner?
> I'm having problems with a relay or something...
> Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:00:26 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
Hi Thai and List,
There is a product sold at NAPA called "Guaranteed To Pass" emissions test
formula made by CRC. They claim "Pass or double you money back". Although I
have never had to use it (came close once), some people I know swear by it.
Maybe you want to look into it.
Frank
VIN: 16509
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 03:00:39 -0000
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: high low beam
I'm curious as to what the problem is, as I have a problem with
mine as well. The headlights stay on all the time unless I take
the "dipped beam" relay out completly. The relay is good, so I have
no idea what is causing this.
-Jay
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, scottymckenzie@xxxx wrote:
> Which headlights are the high beams? The outer or inner?
> I'm having problems with a relay or something...
> Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 20:08:01 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: door openers
Scot said:
> In looking at his option, it appears to me that his profit margin has
> to be very, very thin as the costs of the components from Dakota
> seems to add up to about the same price as he is charging. Darryl
> appears to be trying to help those of us who are looking for an
> affordable option, the viability of owning door launchers.
Very perceptive, Scot. I run a mail order business, part time, in addition
to my full time career in civil engineering. I have little or no overhead.
Yes my profit margin is very small. And every year when I do my taxes, I
think "Why am I doing this?" Because I love the car. Because I like to be
able to provide pieces that others don't have. I like dealing with the
other owners around the country (most of them). And yes I also like to
occasionally tweak the "big guys" by offering the same things they have for
less. But not too hard as I still need to deal with them, and with one
exception every one is a great person and an infinite source of knowledge.
We are very fortunate in that respect with the caliber of dealers we have in
such a small market.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:58:06 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
If you are willing to try a temporary fix such as a fuel additive, and this
still doesn't work... If you are still after that temporary fix, then get a
tank full of CO2 and hook it to where the oxygen sensor goes. When the
inspection guy puts the probe in your exhaust pipe, then have a passenger
open the valve on the CO2 tank.
No, seriously... First, before you do anything make sure that your DeLorean
was fully warmed up before it was inspected. This is probably not likely in
your case, but it would be silly to replace your catalytic converter if it
only failed the test because it wasn't fully warmed-up. The hotter a
catalytic converter is, the more effectively it works. After all, it was
only by 200 points that your car failed. Going back on a hotter day (or
just any day) may give you the points needed to pass. On the second time
through, a favorable contributing factor may be more significant.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 05:08:44 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Headlight Options (was: Xenon Headlights for DeLorean).
A quick search shows that Wagner makes sealed xenon bubls that come
in size 4656 (low beam), but not 4651 (high beam). But there is a
flip side to all this.
Sealed beam conversion kits are available in both sizes to accomidate
Xenon capsule bulbs. Good news is they can plug right into your
existing wiring w/o any modifications. Bad news is that since they
plug right in, you would need special bulbs that fit the beam, and
also have those special connectors on the back to fit the wiring
harness. Also IMO the low beams for this kit are rated too high
90/100W.
http://www.midnightmoose.com/housings.htm
While they won't be under my x-mas tree for a few years, Sylvania now
has a true HID conversion kit available for the 4-beam system. It
includes everything nessisary in the way of transformers and special
ballast cables. But it only converts the low beams. High beams are
still traditional sealed, but special one's are included with the
kit. Sylvania states that this is for legal reasons to keep a legal
beam pattern. Which kinda kills the thrill for me since I want bulbs
as bright as possible on my car for when driving desolate roads at
night.
Now, to somewhat get back to the original message that was pointed,
get what ever bulbs suit your needs: visibility or bargan (preferable
NOT the latter of the two). But don't choose a bulb becaue you think
it will keep the facias from warping. The summer heat alone when your
car is parked out in the sun can cause the same results. If you
really want to keep the facias from warping, you'll need to reinforce
them underneath.
In any case, if the bulbs on your car are original, I would replace
them. They're 20 years old, using 20 year old technology. New bulbs
alone can provide a world of differance when it comes to night time
drivng (which is what my car seem most of for some reason). I still
say the Sylvania Cool Blue's are the best choice. Inexpensive, higher
rating, beautiful color, powerful beam, and keeps with the car's
heratage :)
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello everyone .. just wondering … does anybody have a good cross
> reference part that will replace all 4 of the headlights on the
DeLorean
> with the Xenon lights?
>
> I just wanted to use these as opposed to the current Sylvania
headlights
> … as my front fascia is not severly "eyebrowed" yet … the Xenon
actually
> does not heat up as much as the Halogen .. so it would only seem
logical
> that a xenon would help prevent the "eyebrow" effect … as well as
make
> the car look MUCH nicer for night drives...
<SNIP>
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:13:42 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
In a message dated 9/27/01 4:17:15 PM Central Daylight Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Andy,
>
> You said:
> > on the coldest of cold starts the engine doesn't seem to have any power
> for
> > the first couple of blocks. it won't give any power even though the RPM
> > gauge shows that the engine speed is increasing, and i can hear it revving
> > up. but the car doesn't move in proportion to that as it does when it
> gets
> > warmed up (after only about 3 blocks).
>
> What you are describing here is a slipping transmission. If the engine revs
> and the RPMs increase AND the car isn't moving forward, then something
> somewhere is slipping. If the RPMs aren't making it to your rear wheels,
> then they are dissipating as heat in your clutch plate.
>
> Walt
Oops.
I think i've confused everyone in my email. to clarify - YES the car moves,
but it doesn't feel like it has the power it should have as a fuel-injected
car. it feels like my 1987 2 barrel carb Plymouth Duster on a 20 below zero
morning for the first three blocks or so. after a couple of blocks it seems
to warm up enough to get the 'kick' going.
and my car is a manual transmission. not an automatic as i guess i implied in
my original post.
sorry about the confusion! i have ordered my own K-Jet pressure tester so i
will be testing my fuel lines soon.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 02:40:04 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Door Openers
Folks:
I have seen both products. The two are VERY different in designs and
installation and in their operations. One is like prime steak, the other is
like chuck steak. One is plug and play, the other is you must work to make
it work. In operation one is macho ... the other is polite.
Let me put it this way, if money is not an object in your way of life and if
you want to the best, the $800 is the way to go, otherwise go for the
"cheaper price" product. it will do.
For myself, I like "bullet proof" products. When a product fails, one loses
time besides getting stuck, along with the aggravation one has to endure
during dilemma and then afterwards to replace it ... Remember warranty or
guarantee doesn't help when you are stuck on the road.... Ask both parties
for their product brochure and see, if you can find actual working units in a
DeLorean. So, do your research and make your decisions.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:01:33 +0100
From: Martin <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: gas mileage/f valve
No. The frequency valve operates at a constant 70Hz. What varies is the duty
cycle - ie the proportion of time the valve is open compared to closed.
(I was reading the DMCnews tech pages yesterday, and the DC of Oregon newsletters
:-)
Martin
#1458
mrgolf77@xxxxxxx wrote:
> also, when I hit the full throttle micro switch shouldn't I hear a change
> with the frequency valve and a slight raise in RPMS? That is not happening.
>
>
> Thanks
> David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 06:48:01 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: marker light bulb interchange
Hi Nick,
If you go to pep boys, look for an 81-87 Honda Civic side marker socket.
It is made out of rubber and fits the DMC just about perfectly. The only
thing I had trouble with is that the bulb inside the socket hits the actual
side marker lens. Maybe there is a bulb that is a little bit shorter that
can fix this.
just wanted to let you know
David
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 07:26:02 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Failed emission (smog) test
It is very unusual for an engine to fail the NOx test. This means the
mixture is burning too hot and creating to much NOx. In order to pass this
test you need to slow down the burning rate. This can be done by using a
high octane fuel or through the use of octane additive.
Such problems can also occur with insufficient timing (retarded spark).
Your vacuum advance may not be working or your spark is retarded.
Modern day cars have both oxidizing (to reduce CO) and reducing catalysts
(to reduce NOx). The Delorean catalyst was only an oxidizing catalytic
converter.
Bob Brandys
97™ DeLorean Time Machine.
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________________________________________________________________________
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