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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Cooling fan removal
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Dead Pedal Install
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: window felt replacement
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. Connecticut Delorean Owners
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Cooling fan removal
From: Travis Graham <thgraham2000@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: East Coast/Midwest DMC repair facilities
From: ajutte@xxxxxxx
8. Diecast Delorean modem
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Dead Pedal
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: DMC Prices
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
11. RE: Cooling fan removal
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. pedal vs. leg size was RE: Dead pedal Install
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DMC Prices
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
14. Not another vendor thread..PLEASE!!!
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Advice on tuning my engine
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Vinyl Door molding
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Diecast Delorean modem
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. Ann Arbor Airport showing
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
20. Show and shine in Canada
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Fast corner and electrical died!
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: oil pressure guage
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
23. RE: A/C oil
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. stainless steel illusion
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: A/c fixes
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 03:47:18 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling fan removal
It's a lot of fun! Refer to C:14:03. You just about have to remove the
radiater! If you are really good you might be able to replace the clip
on the shaft without removing the motor. Make sure when you are all
done that the fans are rotating in the correct direction ie; they pull
air from the front of the car rearward.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
> I just noticed that one of my cooling fans is spinning free on its
> motor shaft. Then I noticed that removing the motor to repair this
> doesn't look like it is going to be any fun at all. A thorough
search
> of the archives reveals occasional grumblings to this effect but no
> definitive statement on the easiest way to remove the motor without
> disassembling half of the front end in the process.
>
> Can anybody help?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 03:48:26 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead Pedal Install
My DeLorean had the dead pedal already installed in my car when I
bought it last August. I am a fairly short person, and I need to sit
pretty far forward to comfortable push the clutch in fully. I never
quite liked the feel of the dead pedal, and since mine was loose
anyways, I took it out. I personally like it better this way, but
later this year sometime, I may try reinstalling it a little further
back. I think its more of a person-to-person thing, rather than a
tall-to-short thing. Whatever.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960 (No, it wasn't my car that John saw, but I was out in it a
LOT today!)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Tom,
>
> I have heard that dead pedals are preferred by drivers with shorter
legs and
> not needed by driver with longer legs (like myself). So I am
curious if you
> are of the long or short legged variety and if you feel this
influences your
> preference.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:13:46 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: window felt replacement
To correct my previous post on this topic:
Forget using Liquid Nails to glue the window felt back in. It appeared to
work really well on my car, but it eventually came unglued from the black
vinyl "u"-shaped rubber piece. The OEM adhesive is barely holding at all on
the rest of the piece. Also, I didn't clean the area properly the first
time. I'm going to try cleaning it real well with acetone and then using
the 3M General Trim Adhesive.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter <whalt@xxxxxxx>
<snip>
> I glued my
>original felt back to the rubber piece using what I had on hand: Liquid
>Nails paneling adhesive from Home Depot. That is some good stuff! In this
>application it works better than 3M General Trim Adhesive because the
Liquid
>Nails is thicker and dries with less shrinkage which helps seep into and
>stay in the woven backing of the fuzzy stuff.
<snip>
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:06:34 EDT
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
Subject: Connecticut Delorean Owners
Wouldn't it be great to find out how many Deloreans there are in
Connecticut? Who owns them? How close in location we are to each other?
Wouldn't it be fun to get as many Deloreans as possible in one place?
I'm sure we can do it at minimal to no cost if we meet at a popular
"cruise night" spot or at a popular landmark.
If you are interested or have any suggestions, please e-mail me at
FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxxx Thanks.
Frank
Ridgefield, Ct
VIN: 16509
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 23:25:07 -0500
From: Travis Graham <thgraham2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling fan removal
Hi Peter,
You're right - it's no fun indeed! The biggest step is getting the air dam
off. After that, you'll have to remove about 37,311 other little pieces
down there in order to get enough play amongst the parts to remove the air
cowl. If memory serves me, in a nutshell, you have to unbolt the fan cowl
from the condenser, then slide the cowl out.
I distinctly remember using jack stands to hold the condenser into place as
I removed the fan cowl (which was a VERY tight squeeze). I didn't have
access to a lift, so I just put the car on ramps and laid on the concrete
throughout the procedure - which worked out fine.
Do keep in mind: don't try to remove the fans from the cowl until it's off
of the car...I remember trying to do this...it wasted quite some time and
was futile.
Sorry I can't be of more help - it's been a while since I did this (I had
your problem exactly). On my car, the plastic part that held the fan blade
to the motor was broken. And I couldn't buy just a new blade...I needed the
entire assembly (~$300). I used some JB Weld to glue the fan to the motor -
it's worked perfectly for a year and a half.
Best of luck to you!
Travis Graham
> I just noticed that one of my cooling fans is spinning free on its
> motor shaft. Then I noticed that removing the motor to repair this
> doesn't look like it is going to be any fun at all. >
> Can anybody help?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:48:39 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
I have the heavy duty window regulator in my passenger door, and I just
confirmed today that it is responsible for putting a dent in the door skin.
I started this thread before suspecting that the dents were only caused by
the OEM window regulators since I have seen several DeLoreans with the same
dents in the doors.
Anyway, I HEREBY OFFICIALLY COMPLAIN THAT THE HEAVY DUTY REPLACEMENT WINDOW
REGULATORS SOLD BY THE DELOREAN VENDORS HAVE A DESIGN DEFECT ALLOWING THE
TUBE TO PUSH AGAINST AND DENT THE DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. I'm not too much
into yoga, but I was able to operate the window electrics from the center
console while holding my hand on the outer door skin. As I rolled the
window up & down, I could feel the door skin warp considerably as the window
regulator tube pushed on it. In fact, there is a tube-shaped dent in the
center of the door where this is happening. It shows up really well when
the light hits it right such as at evening car shows.
For those of you with dent-free doors, I highly recommend being very gentle
when rolling the windows up regardless of whether or not you have the
upgraded window regulators are the old OEMs. Take your finger off the
switch immediately when the window is at full travel because any further may
dent your door from the inside.
I'm planning on trying the dry ice technique of dent removal. If that
doesn't work well enough, then I'm just going to cover it with the optional
dealer side stripes.
Another idea that I'm going to try is to glue a swatch of fiberglass PC
board or heavy gauge stainless inside the door to protect the area. If I
were one of the vendors of the heavy duty window regulator, then I would
definitely start selling them with such a reinforcement panel or come up
with a different design.
Who is the one who 'invented' the standard heavy duty window regulator? Is
this another Zilla product? Enough people on the DML have noticed the same
dents in their cars, so something should be done about this before it gets
anyone else's doors.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:58:52 EDT
From: ajutte@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: East Coast/Midwest DMC repair facilities
Have a Delerean that has been in storage last five years. Want to have it
thoroughly checked before putting it back on the road. Looking for reputable,
knowledgable repair facility in either the Midwest or East Coast.
(Michigan or New York) Would appreciate any member insights.
Will require new transmission seal and a rear window reseal as well.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 22:54:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Diecast Delorean modem
Awhile back someone posted about the miniature
Deloren's models being available, the diecase metal
ones... who has them, and when will they be out?
I know there are two models... I would like to get a
couple.
Thanks,
Mike
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 07:53:04 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dead Pedal
Walt wrote:
> I have heard that dead pedals are preferred by drivers with
> shorter legs and not needed by driver with longer legs
> (like myself). So I am curious if you are of the long or
> short legged variety and if you feel this influences your
> preference.
I consider myself to be a long legged driver, at 1m85 (about 6') this
would be logical, since in general the torso is about the same length
and it's the limbs that are longer or shorter for each person.
On my car I decided to put in the dead pedal to get my feet in about
the same position when cruising. Without the dead pedal I can reach
the back of the footwell with ease, but I don't like sitting with one
leg stretched and one leg bent (on the accelerator).
With the pedal installed (I did use it, even when its' position
wasn't quite right yet) I found that my back would be more straight
(instead of being bent sideways), so after a long drive I felt more
relaxed than before when getting out of the car and my back didn't
hurt.
I also feel that I can react a little faster in case of an emergency,
because I don't have to get my leg up that much AND since my foot is
next to the pedal instead of behind it there is no risk of getting my
foot caught under the pedal when I need to get up to the clutch.
> Also, if your DeLorean were an automatic, would you still feel
> that you get any benefit from a dead pedal?
I drive a manual, but I feel that with an automatic I would still
have the same benefit as I have from the pedal now.
On my daily driver car (1987 Ford Escort) the LH wheelwell protrudes
somewhat into the footwell, so I have a ledge that I can put my foot
on when not using the clutch. Being so, I am used to having a
footrest.
Hope this clarifies my veiwpoint,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:11:48 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
If D1 doesn't buy the cars from private parties, then were do the
cars come from? Are they "zero mile" cars that have been in storage
since they were built, still with the plastic on them? Other than
that alone, does anyone know what justify's the current price tag of
$62,500? Over the years here on the DML, some folks have done off
chassis resotrations of DeLoreans. Including the price paid for the
vehicle itself, none have ever even come close to reaching that price.
Are there any special options or packages that were included with
your car, or anyone elses? Does the car come with an aftermarket
turbo? Was the engine blueprinted? Is there a service contract
included for maintenance and oil changes?
Myself, like others, are curious. Maybe if folks knew a bit more
about the refurbished cars, they might warm up to buying one.
Just a thought...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, comet4055@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> The cars are not purchased from private retailers. DeLorean One
> owns the cars that are rebuilt. They are completely torn down and
rebuilt
> with NOS parts
<SNIP>
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 04:44:13 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cooling fan removal
Pete, Check Ken Montgomery's web site. Ken made a tool to repair what I
think you are talking about.
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm go to special documents
and then cooling system electrical and fans.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lucas [mailto:lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 10:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cooling fan removal
I just noticed that one of my cooling fans is spinning free on its
motor shaft. Then I noticed that removing the motor to repair this
doesn't look like it is going to be any fun at all. A thorough search
of the archives reveals occasional grumblings to this effect but no
definitive statement on the easiest way to remove the motor without
disassembling half of the front end in the process.
Can anybody help?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:15:29 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: pedal vs. leg size was RE: Dead pedal Install
Walt,
I'm 6' 0" and not in the shorter leg group. I usually drive with the
seat all the way back. I'm not sure if this matters but it might make a
difference depending on your particular driving position. I like to lay
back as far as possible. I would say that if I had an automatic car I
would think a dead pedal would be even better as your left foot doesn't
need to move as there is no clutching. Again the difference IMHO was
remarkable. I now feel as if my left foot isn't flopping in the
footwell but rather in a position that makes shifting a closer move.
I've tried to drive with the seat closer but it feels too.......what's a
good word.......tight, crowded, uncomfortable. The reclined position
works best for me so the addition of the pedal makes for a perfect foot
rest.
Also, one reply posts mentioned that they got their pedal from Rob @ PJ
Grady. I wasn't aware that Rob had them as well. Mine was a Christmas
gift from my wife who saw the DMC Houston mailer that came to the
house, I had circled it as a "wish" item and had forgotten about it
until I opened up my Christmas gift. So, I don't want to offend anyone
by making them sound exclusive to one vendor, if any of you or any our
fine DMC vendors viewed it this way, I am sorry.
Tom
005732 MT
visit me @
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81
>I have heard that dead pedals are preferred by drivers with shorter
legs and
>not needed by driver with longer legs (like myself). So I am curious
if you
>are of the long or short legged variety and if you feel this influences
your
>preference.
>Also, if your DeLorean were an automatic, would you still feel that you
get
>any benefit from a dead pedal?
>Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:15:21 EDT
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
I'm thinking D1 refurbs have the nuclear reactor in them. Realize that Houston's refurbs are 30K with 6 month warranty.
I recall in the halcyon days of Ferrari speculation that if the car didn't sell this week for 500K the price was raise to 600K artificially inflating the market. The problem was that non-car people thought the price increase was real and the demand justified it...and they bought. Daytona coupes at 1.25M that today sell for 125K. Several celebrity types bought and went to the poor house when the market fell as it always does. We own production cars that alot of were built. None raced at LeMans, etc. to have racing provenance to increase value nor were they ever developed to the degree of really great sports cars. For 62K, you can buy a great new car and some really grat used cars...I'd think twice...I've had some really great cars for that kind of money and have mostly made money on the resales...
Fred
6894
"Be Smart, Buy Right"
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:25:00 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Not another vendor thread..PLEASE!!!
Moderators note: I agree with Tom. We all have the option to deal with those that we're comfortable with. I'm killing the price thread. A lot of what's being said is pure speculation.
List,
Please, let's not start a thread that pits one vendor against another.
There has been much said about this subject and I think that to keep our
list in good taste and decorum we should avoid a war of words. The
posssible web site cutting and pasting issue on restored cars is
something that I never noticed, so if one vendor really has an issue
with it please leave it to them to contact the other vendor about their
point of view. All of us should not touch this one with a 10 foot
stainless steel pole!
Tom
005732 MT
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 08:34:50 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Advice on tuning my engine
I have always suspected that the removal of the CAT causes some problems
with the accuracy of the O2 Sensor.
Although I do not have a answer for you, I'd be interested in hearing
your results when you do find a solution.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 7:19 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Advice on tuning my engine
Hello everyone,
I need some advice for my car: I had the Cat replaced by a pipe a
couple of months ago (which is legal here) to get a little more
performance out of my car.
This DID do the trick, not much, but noticable enough. The car was
behaving beautifully when I got it back from the shop untill about
three weeks ago. When Idling you can smell some unburned gasoline
from
<SNIP>
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 06:59:36 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vinyl Door molding
I am getting a small dent removed from the door of my D, on July 9th. The
owner of a large Body shop here, formerly did body work on DeLoreans as part
of the original QAC facility and is familiar with this work.........however
they will use a relatively new technique on this one.....they have a machine
that has several "fingers" on it that are epoxied to the metal and will PULL
the metal out versus pushing it from the backside. When the job is done
the contact points are heated and the expoxy lets loose and it is ready for
texturing......
This is a quite small dent, ( 1/8 inch deep and tapering out a few inches)
but noticeable, and I have been putting off having it done for a couple
years, although it is fully covered by insurance. One question he asked,
was whether I knew HOW that side door body molding is fastened. Is it
cemented to the stainless, as we both suspect or are there bolts or
fasteners of some sort. How is it removed and can it be recemented back
on? He would like to take it off to facilitate this dent removal and it has
a VERY slight bend in it too, which would come out when it is put back on.
Can someone comment on taking this Vinyl body molding off and putting it
back on? Adhesive?
Thanks.
Murray Fisher
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:14:17 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Diecast Delorean modem
They will be available at www.diecastmuscle.com. They are selling
both the regular SS and Gold plated Delorean versions. They will not
be available until Sept 2001 (that's what their site says).
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
> Awhile back someone posted about the miniature
> Deloren's models being available, the diecase metal
> ones... who has them, and when will they be out?
>
> I know there are two models... I would like to get a
> couple.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:00:13 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ann Arbor Airport showing
I happened to notice that the Ann Arbor airport was hosting a Father's Day
pancake breakfast for the Experimental Aircraft Society. From what I
gathered from the flyer, they were going to have a bunch of unique aircraft
on display. One of the attractions listed on the flyer was a "1981 Delorean
Show Car." I suppose they thought it fit the bill with the gull wing doors
and all. I was just curious if this was anyone on the list?
-Eric Hennebury
VIN 17065
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 14:33:45 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
If this is as big a problem as you say the simple fix would be to glue
a piece of sheet metal (cold rolled or s/s) about 4"x4" to the inside
of the door to prevent distortion.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I have the heavy duty window regulator in my passenger door, and I
just
> confirmed today that it is responsible for putting a dent in the
door skin.
> I started this thread before suspecting that the dents were only
caused by
> the OEM window regulators since I have seen several DeLoreans with
the same
> dents in the doors.
>
> Anyway, I HEREBY OFFICIALLY COMPLAIN THAT THE HEAVY DUTY REPLACEMENT
WINDOW
> REGULATORS SOLD BY THE DELOREAN VENDORS HAVE A DESIGN DEFECT
ALLOWING THE
> TUBE TO PUSH AGAINST AND DENT THE DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. I'm not too
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:54:02 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Show and shine in Canada
One of my best Father's Days ever, was this past weekend when a group of DeLorean owners came to London, Ontario, relaxed, cruised the area, went to the park for a "show and shine", but the best was when they all came over to my house for a photo shoot. 5 Cars with the wings up in my driveway was a cap on being an owner for many years. Guys and wives--- thank you for coming---it was a fun time and with the great weather I had promised. ( boy, have I got connections)
Sure, it would have been better with more cars, however I want to say that the quality of DeLorean car owner was more important. These Ohio folks are as nice you will find. Well behaved true gentlepeople who get their highs the same way I do - - love of the car, and the patience to share their knowledge with all the questions fired at them. We had a lot of lookers, and lots of questions.We had local paper coverage - half page and photo, and then a follow up article.
Those owners within a day's drive of here, who spent the weekend at home, missed a super time.
I'd be delighted to work on another gettogether weekend in the future, and have the company of fine respectable owners like these folks. Thanks for coming, and making my weekend the best!. I've booked Memphis for next year, and look forward to joining a convoy going down Hwy 75.
Marvin Stein
#4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: printeddrinkware.com
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 11:03:01 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fast corner and electrical died!
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote:
> I came around the corner pretty fast at the end of the
> street (streets are clear) and next thing I know, the
> engine's dead and the lights are dim.
I'm not sure if you've corrected the problem yet, but I suppose it might be
possible that your fast corner affected one of the grounding points on the
car through regular flexing of the chassis. This is only a guess, but it
might not be a bad idea to just check them and see.
-Eric Hennebury
VIN 17065
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 17:05:35 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> This is the way the stock O.E.M. oil presure gauge seems to work.
You
> can watch the oil pressure with a mechanical guage to verify the
> engine is O.K. If you want the oil gauge to be more responsive
contact
> PNWDMC- Marty Maier. He is selling a sending unit that will make
the
> gauge work like it should.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club? Is that what PNWDMC stands for?
Last I heard, Marty Maier was in the Mid-State DeLorean Club, and
that is who I contacted to get my oil pressure sender.
http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/oilsender.html
John Yeoman
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 17:48:43
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: A/C oil
I will be flushing the system, evacuateing it and rechargeing it. It
currently does not cool. it's been like 90 degrees here.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [DML] A/C oil
>Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 09:08:28 -0400
>
>That depends on what freon you are using.
>
>Most of the time, Oil only needs to be put in if the system has been
>evacuated. If you are just adding a bit of freon because you may have
>lost some over the years, there is no need to add oil.
>
>Too much oil will hurt cooling.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ryan Foster [mailto:westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 8:24 PM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] A/C oil
>
>
>Is there any specific oil that should be used when charging the A/C?
>
>Ryan -
>
>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:28:07
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: stainless steel illusion
I use to borrow the book "DeLorean stainless steel illusion" from the local
library. I called them the other day to see if they still had it. I wanted
to buy it if they would be willing to sell it. They told me that it was on
the discard list and that I could have it for one dollar if it was still in
the back room.
Unfortunately it wasn't there anymore. That would of been a great deal.
Does anyone have a copy of this book for sale? I have been looking for a
while now. Thanks.
Ryan- vin.#16301
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:55:59
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A/c fixes
The proper way to change from R-12 to R-134 is to change the compressor,
acculmator, and condenser.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] A/c fixes
>Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:53:21 -0700
>
>Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought the "proper" way to convert the
>system over was to change the dryer. I think the dryer is in the
>accumulater and one must change the accumulater to change the dryer.
>Therefore, a system changeover is MUCH more than $35. Please let me know
>the proper procedure.
>
>Brian 16584
>
>
> >From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: [DML] A/c fixes
> >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:16:10 -0500
> >
> >Converting to R-134a is cheap. One kit from Walmart for $35 is almost
> >enough.
> >However, you have to make sure you don't get any air or moisture inside.
> >I had a friend with a little pump that we hooked up to the system and let
> >it
>
>[moderator snip]
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
>
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