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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. DCO Newsletter PDF
From: Shannon Yocom <ss@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Correct phone number
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Eurofest-First Pictures
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Auto VS. Manual
From: azb888@xxxxxx
5. Expensive e-mail in U.K.!!!!
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Hard Starting.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
9. Re: clutch slave cylinder
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
10. Web-adresses in posts
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. Plastic Header Bottle question
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Stolen Keys
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Hard Starting.
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: patrickdmc@xxxxxxxxx
16. Purolator fuel filter - better?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Plastic Header Bottle question
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. Eurofest Update2
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Auto VS. Manual
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
20. Lambda light
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Re: Re: Hard Starting.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: DeLorean known issues
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
24. Fuel filter pictures uploaded
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. Re: Lambda light
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 13:58:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ss@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DCO Newsletter PDF
To all,
I've just put up the DeLorean Club of Ohio Newsletter on the web if anyone would like to see what is going on in Ohio.
It is here:
http://www.wcnet.org/~delorean/page_layouts/DCO_May_2001.pdf
If you have Adobe Acrobat Reader it should open automatically.
You will need at least Adobe Acrobat Reader 3.0 to view it. You can get the latest viewer for FREE here:
(Mac, PC etc.)
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
Shannon Yocom
VIN# Not Yet!
_____________________________________________________________
YourName@xxxxxxxxxxxx -- it's free from <a href="" href="http://www.delorean.com">http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 17:11:21 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Correct phone number
The correct phone number for Chris Gossett Delorean for sale
708-482-7646
Bob
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:20:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest-First Pictures
To all,
I believe we have the first picture from the big show; check it out: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC Joe dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
"We're here to help you"
De Lorean Services <delorean@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....
[Moderator Note: because this picture appears automatically when you visit the url indicated, this is not a violation of our commercial posting policy.]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:05:23 EDT
From: azb888@xxxxxx
Subject: Auto VS. Manual
HI,
I am hoping to one day live the dream like so many and get my delorean. I
know for a sportier look to go with a manual but if you want luxury go with
the automatic. I have heard thought that the computers on the automatic
DMC's have some problems. Is this true and if so what is a better buy???
Ali
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 18:52:17 -0500
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Expensive e-mail in U.K.!!!!
Just a quick warning for everyone with notebook computers at EuroFest... It's not free, like in the U.S.! (i.e. regular monthly phone service and monthly Internet service provider). If you're like me, and you hang on-line while you're typing, you'll get a $150.00 US charge to your hotel bill, just like I did! Ops... I didn't know! They tell me it's that way whether you connect from your hotel or home in the U.K. and I found it out the hard way in London yesterday. The hourly rates at the Internet Cafe is suppose to be the most reasonable, or just send/receive and make it quick! ...speaking from experience!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 00:02:30 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues
[Moderator Note: The following is the opinion of author. It is possible to live comfortably without some of these updates, and I expect this list to generate a storm of comments about specific items. Thank you for posting it, David Teitelbaum.]
Here is a list of some of the "known" things to do
3 recalls (if not already done)
tankzilla,lockzilla,fanzilla
trailing arm bolts
ducey alternater (if equiped)
any coolant leaks
plastic header bottle
loose connections in fuse block
cooling fan and circ fan breakers
origional radiater w/ plastic tanks
hydraulic line for clutch
old brake fluid-old anti-freeze
angle drive for speedo and lube lowe cable
old door struts
deteriorated rubber fuel system parts
muffler bracket on right rear
if automatic-shift computer
bead sealer for spare tire
emergency release cables for hood and engine cover
tail light circuit boards
clean all ground connections
Some items are just age related but most are specific to the Delorean. These are among the most common things that I would consider necessary
to make the Delorean a RELIABLE and safe daily driver. Many of the items can be done by most owners so it is just the cost of the parts
but others can be expensive if you have to get professional labor to do them. This is also assuming that the car is in "reasonable"
running shape and doesn't need a lot of cosmetic work such as headliners, binnacle. seats, rugs, etc. Some owners may disagree with
some items but these are all problem areas that have shown themselves over time. Sometimes the low mileage cars need the most work because
the problems never came to light so it never received any upgrades! The Delorean is no more troublesome than any other 20+ year old car
that you would want to turn into a daily driver, mileage is not everything, time also works against you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a list anywhere of the "known" issues that
> goes wrong with Delorean's?
>
> My D has approx 4,000 miles on it... so the engine
> should be in near new shape.. it looks it and runs
> it...
>
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:12:38 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hard Starting.
I know exactly what you mean! The only part of the car I have not yet
worked on is the heating & A/C. The background on the fuel system is
that every single piece was replaced (or supposed to have been) to
restore the car to running order. MANY things I ran accross were not
changed out or repaired, even though I was told they were. But
everything is brand new on the fuel system from the pump to the
injectors. Inspecting how new every single part looked seemed to
concur with their short age. I don't have an inherintly bad car. It's
incompetent workmanship by past mechanics resulting in failure of
components that were supposed to be 'new' that has made my car turn
into the "DeLorean from Hell." But there is a light a the end of the
tunnel finally that I'll reach soon (problem is that I have to keep
pulling over for gas and repairs!).
Anyhow, I had this starting problem last summer, but brushed it off
on the ignition system not working properly. This has really thrown a
monkey wrench into my plans since I'm now gearing up to perform the
remainder of the 30K mile service on my car and then some. In the
mean time I'll just splice into place a push button switch to
activate the cold start valve from the drivers seat. That way I don't
have to get out of the car to swap plugs. A temporary fix that I'll
connect to the hot start relay (once installed) so I can control the
firing of the cold start valve for only when I need it.
Mechanic's bills do add up pretty quick for any car, which is why I
ended up being my own mechanic for all of my vehicles. Thanks for the
insight as to other areas to inspect as well. I'll run everything by
my mechanic who's both early Volvo, and DeLorean factory certified.
We'll see what we can come up with. Although at this time a pressure
test as well as other diagnostics have not been run. As much as I'd
like to swap out the distributor with another from pick-a-part, I
can't. I've gone to 3 seperate junk yards, and all the 260's & 760's
have already had their disributors removed! I don't know if it's
because of any kind of a failure rate, or just the fact that the part
is so valuable!
But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an
entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor
itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention.
Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad seal
(s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to
bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel
line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself
without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please correct
me.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, SGSKBM@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> I had the exact same problem and I replaced vitually every
component
> in the car at DMC in Garden Grove! The bills were staggering! The
> car would not hold presure after a shut down, and this is important
> for it to do so as to not vapor lock on a restart when hot.
<SNIP>
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:15:40 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues
As is with any DeLorean question be about the Man, the Car, or the
Company, there is no quick and simple answer to be given. Only
insight. Known issues issues with the DeLorean car fall into 2 main
catergories: Inherient, and age related. Inherient would be things
such as factory recalls, known 'quirks', etc... Age related are
things such as water hoses, fuel lines, etc... I don't know if it's
due to certain items having an average life span, or because when one
person mentions a problem others speak up about theirs as well. But
it seems that folks usually have simular problems with specific
components on their cars at the same time wheather it's age or milage
related.
Another aspect are things that were at one time problems, but due to
newer technology have been cured. A couple of years ago when I went
to Harrah's auto museum in Reno, Nevada to see the 24K AMEX D, I
picked up a copy of the DeLorean Gold Portfolio. The book is an
excellent read and is chocked full of both great facts and opinions.
But sadly, it is quite a bit out dated. The book and the articles
contained within were compiled at a time when information was not as
abundant as it is today about the car. One of the articles makes a
mention that the owner loved his car, but never locked the doors
while driving for fear of being locked in because of what was
percieved as a problem with the power door locks sticking. So the man
stated that he never locked his doors because he didn't want to get
stuck inside the car. In the time since, it is now commonly know that
the problem was solenoids getting burned out by sticking relays. Now
we have both a do-it-yourself repair, and replacement component
(lockzilla) to cure the issue. Other problems with the car were
simply confusions with other marquees, or outright misinformation.
I'm guessing that you want the list to see what you should prepare
for repair wise. That in itself is not a question that can easily be
answered since no two cars are alike. Plus chance can play a big part
too. But here is an idea to get you started: The car is almost 20
years old, so things such as rubber seals and hoses will need to be
replaced if not done already (ie: your coolant leak). Your car will
not be a daily driver, so can skip over items such as improved heat
shields, 3-layer radiator, centerforce clutch, semi-metaic brake
pads, etc... Other items such as the angle drive only need regular
servicing and lubrication to operate correctly no matter what you
drive you car for. Compare these items to both your budget and desire
for what you want the car to be. Once you know what you want, you'll
know what path to take in your repairs. For example, you said that
you'll need new locks and a fuel pump boot. What has lead you to that
determination? Even if these items do require replacement of some
sort, you yourself may be able to complete the repair.
Myself, I have the opposite attitude about about my car. I'm trying
to rack up as many miles as I can. People always said I'd never own a
D. Once I got one, they said I've never keep it on the road. For me,
it's a personal thing (I'm determined to prove them wrong!). My first
year of ownership has just passed, and I've already clocked over
12,000 miles onto my DeLorean. By doing this I keep my car in a daily
driver condition. So I have to plan ahead for what will wear out with
not just age, but heavier usage. And when I replace items, I usually
go for those that can survive the long haul. For a car who's purpose
is more for show, you probably don't need certain upgraded and more
expensive parts. Plus you can switch around the priorites for what
needs to be repaired/replaced/upgraded first.
In conclusion, the best person to answer your question is you. Spend
some time with your car and get to know it better. Another thing to
do is monitor the DML. If one person is describing a recent problem
and repair with their car, go over your car. Find out what they are
describing in appearance, function, and symptom. That's the best way
to become familiar with your car, and to get more enjoyment from it!
For what you have described as the car's purpose for your usage, and
it's condition, you are almost at the end. As you said in your
posting, you're "...at the point where...(you)...need to do
something..." Let's first start with diagnosing and repairing that
coolant leak. That is the first step for both you and your car...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a list anywhere of the "known" issues that
> goes wrong with Delorean's?
<SNIP>
> It's vin 855, single key lock... I just dont lock my
> doors because it's a gamble if they will come unlocked
> (so I am told).
>
> interior is perfect.... the car physically is pretty
> much perfect.
>
> I'm at a point I need to do something.... I can't
> drive it again because of the tiny cooling leak in the
> front...
<SNIP>
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 11:17:51 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: clutch slave cylinder
As far as I know, there is no rebuild kit for either the master nor
the slave clutch cylinders. You best bet is to just by a new one if
you are replacing the system.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi list,
> Could anybody inform me on what the OEM manufactuer of the clutch
slave
> cylinder is? I was hopeing to find a rebuild kit for it if
possible. Thanks.
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:01:09 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Web-adresses in posts
Hello everyone,
I may appear to be a total nitpicker, but I would like to urge
everyone to FULLY write down suggested internet-addresses.
By fully I mean including HTTP://
If you do so, your link will appear as a link in most mail-programs AND it will be a clickable link when reading messages on the web.
Only downside is that in some cases yahoogroups puts a linebreak in the link so it doesn't work, you see this in a lot of (long)
ebay-links.
When posting on-line (not by email) you can see if this happens by using the "preview"-button.
Thanks for the effort,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:11:29 EDT
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Plastic Header Bottle question
Regarding the recall on the plastic header bottles: Can someone tell me why
the plastic bottles weren't sufficient for the the Delorean? Was it just a
defective design of the Delorean's specific bottle? How exactly did they
fail? I ask because I've seen many other cars that utilize plastic bottles.
(Presurized, like the D.)
Part of my project will involve relocation and replacement of the bottle and
I'd like a little background on the plastic bottle problem.
Thanks,
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:27:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
David,
I respectfully disagree with your statement: "if you attempt to spin balance the rear tires on the car you risk damaging the final drive". We have been spin balancing DeLorean tires on the car since 1983 and have never had any type of mechanical problems to the drive train.
You also said: "It is also better to balance the tire off the car because if you ever remove the tire you MUST put it back on EXACTLY in the same position ......." This should not be an issue when considering the benefits of an "on the car" spin balance.
BTW: Here is a simple solution for correct tire replacement orientation. When removing the tire mark the position of the air valve by replacing only the lug nut that is adjacent to the air valve. This will enable you to replace the tire in the orientation it was balanced in.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: DeLorean Services.com
DMC.tv is in your future.....
[moderator snip]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 10:22:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stolen Keys
Felix,
Mike is correct when he talks about the possibility of you DeLorean being stolen. But to make you feel more comfortable here is a quick temporary fix that should solve your problem. Whenever you leave your car unattended reach under the dash board and pull the plunger button "up" on your inertia switch, this will prevent the car from being started.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <DeLorean Services.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....
[moderator snip]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:51:08 -0000
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hard Starting.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
>
> But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an
> entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor
> itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention.
> Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad
seal
> (s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to
> bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel
> line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself
> without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please
correct
> me.
>
> I agree with your feelings and after the initial shock of the
findings (price wise) settled, I came to the same conclusion. I saw
them trade out the Primary Pressure Regulator and the same problem
persisted after the swap. I could only conclude that the fuel
distributor was defective internaly and was leaking inside.
As it turns out they changed the distributor and fired up the car and
it held pressure! I have not had the hot start problem since and it
appears to have stopped surging which was a sympton that it had when
you first started the car on a cold start.
I am not convinced that the fuel distributor was really defective but
all of the evidence certainly points in that direction. If I can be
of any further asistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Scot
6452
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:42:07 -0000
From: patrickdmc@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
I saw the posts and was wondering if this was necessary? If mine
is not spin balanced will it damage something? Or is this a cure for
high speed vibrations that are hard to find? I'm not a DMC expert so
I really don't understand why this is important.
Patrick
#1040
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:25:13 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Purolator fuel filter - better?
I found a direct replacement (according to the manufacture) for the
Bosch fuel filter. It's from Purolator. I bought this filter because
it looks like it won't have the same symptoms as the Bosch one does
if you accidentally tighten it too much on the bottom steel fuel line
elbow. For those who don't know of this problem here's what happens:
If you thread the fuel filter onto the steel 90-degree elbow (on the
bottom steel fuel line going to the "In" port of the filter) to
tight, you will restrict the fuel flow causing low fuel pressure and
the fuel system not operating properly or at all. The reason being
this is if you look inside the threaded port where that 90-degree
steel elbow threads into, there's some sort of "dome" or black bubble
(I am assuming that it is made of aluminum). When you thread the
elbow in to far, it hits against this causing the fuel restriction. I
don't know what the purpose of that "bubble" is in the fuel filter
for, anyone on this list know? (I haven't cut the old Bosch filter
open to inspect it yet). Anyway what I THINK is since the filter was
made for a different fuel system on another car, there was no elbow
that threaded into it but a hollow bolt (like what's on the rest of
the fuel system) that threaded into it. Now after putting the two
copper washers with the banjo fitting and threading it into the
bottom of the filter and tighten it down, it would work flawlessly
since there was only enough thread sticking out to only go into the
filter so far. I think someone may have goofed and made the 90 degree
elbow threads the same length as that hollow bolt and forgot to take
into consideration the banjo and the two copper washers thus making
it go into the filter to far if you tighten it to much.
Now here's where the Purolator fuel filter comes into the equation.
If you look into the same "In" port (where that elbow will thread
into) it does not have that "bubble", it's just a straight chamber.
You could tighten up that elbow and thread it as far as it would go
into this filter and it will never hit anything in the filter to
restrict the fuel filter. I'll try to get some pictures of it onto
the files page later tonight along with the part number if the
Moderator gives me permission to do so. One other good thing is that
the filter is a lot cheaper (around $15). I will be installing this
filter this weekend (If it stops raining here!!) and take some fuel
readings with the new fuel pressurs tester I just purchased. I'll
post back the results.
If anyone would still like to use the Bosh fuel filter then you may
be able to work around the problem since if you leave the filter on
the elbow to loose it will leak and if it's to tight you restrict the
fuel flow. One solution (which I have yet to confirm and I will do so
this weekend) is to take the old copper washers off the top of the
filter and transfer BOTH of them to the elbow (of course you'll be
installing new copper washers on the top since you will be changing
your fuel filter). Now the copper washers you put onto the metal
elbow will not be used to seal it, they will just be used as spacers.
You should be using Teflon on the threads of the elbow to seal it.
The copper washers MAY be good enough to space the thread to prevent
it from being tightened too much and also be a guide to not
tightening it enough.
Steve
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 18:38:49 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Plastic Header Bottle question
There never was an official recall on the header bottle. It is just
that after 20+ years many owners have seen them split or crack with
the resulting loss of coolant. In light of this there is now a source
producing aluminum and stainless steel replacements. If you decide to
replace I recomend adding an overflow bottle so you can see the fluid
level without having to remove the pressure cap like on other modern
cars.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jus4sho@xxxx wrote:
> Regarding the recall on the plastic header bottles: Can someone tell
me why
> the plastic bottles weren't sufficient for the the Delorean? Was it
just a
> defective design of the Delorean's specific bottle? How exactly did
they
> fail? I ask because I've seen many other cars that utilize plastic
bottles.
> (Presurized, like the D.)
>
> Part of my project will involve relocation and replacement of the
bottle and
> I'd like a little background on the plastic bottle problem.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 00:37:34 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest Update2
Another day done! A great time is being had by all. Be sure to visit
at http://www.dmcnews.com/belfasttemp/belfastdaily.html
There are (by Marty's count) 35 cars attending, 5 of them are right-
hand drive. I believe I heard that 17 countries are represented.
Dave Swingle (and the other 220 DeLorean-Nuts from Belfast)
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 14:58:59 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Auto VS. Manual
Yes, from my experience the computers/modulators on an automatic
do have problems and are an expensive fix. I don't know how _often_
these things go out, but chances are if you have your automatic DeLorean
for long enough it probably will. Personally, unless you *really
hate* sticks, I would recommend a stick over an automatic. That's
the only reason why I bought an automatic D.
If you decide to buy an automatic, make sure the car shifts well
when cold and when hot. I made the mistake of not doing that and
I had to pay the price right after buying my D.
My two cents,
Richard
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:11:54 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Lambda light
I know this has been covered in the past on the list, but I couldn't
find information anywhere on the web-site. What is the Lambda
light for (I think I already know, just want to make sure) and how/
when does it shut off?
Thanks for any help,
Richard
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 19:12:20 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Question about on-car spin balancing tires
On-car balancing is the best solution but not required. It's for all
the "High speed" drivers. ;-) It is sufficent to say that you should
at least have the tire spin balanced off the car at high speeds,
generally spun at the tire manufactures speed rating.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, patrickdmc@xxxx wrote:
>
> I saw the posts and was wondering if this was necessary? If
mine
> is not spin balanced will it damage something? Or is this a cure
for
> high speed vibrations that are hard to find? I'm not a DMC expert
so
> I really don't understand why this is important.
>
> Patrick
> #1040
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:46:07 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Hard Starting.
You said:
"it appears to have stopped surging which was a symptom that it had when
you first started the car on a cold start."
The idle surge or "hunting" when cold is a normal characteristic of the K-Jetronic CIS fuel injection system.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site:DeLorean Services.com
DMC.tv is in your future.....
----- Original Message -----
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 12:51 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Hard Starting.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
>
> But one thing is that I don't understand how the replacement of an
> entire distributor could have solved your problem. The distributor
> itself is not responsible for any type of fuel pressure retention.
> Less of course the Primary Pressure Regulator. If there was a bad
seal
> (s) in the unit, I could understand how it would have been able to
> bleed off pressure 'forwards' thru the system via the return fuel
> line. But I also imagine that it could have been replaced by itself
> without the entire distributor. If I am wrong, someone please
correct
> me.
>
> I agree with your feelings and after the initial shock of the
findings (price wise) settled, I came to the same conclusion. I saw
them trade out the Primary Pressure Regulator and the same problem
persisted after the swap. I could only conclude that the fuel
distributor was defective internaly and was leaking inside.
As it turns out they changed the distributor and fired up the car and
it held pressure! I have not had the hot start problem since and it
appears to have stopped surging which was a sympton that it had when
you first started the car on a cold start.
I am not convinced that the fuel distributor was really defective but
all of the evidence certainly points in that direction. If I can be
of any further asistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Scot
6452
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 21:44:34 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean known issues
David Teitelbaum wrote:
[snip]
> deteriorated rubber fuel system parts
[snip]
I'd like to add rubber parts as a whole:
on mine the door seals are starting to crack, from the looks of it
they are still the original seals and since I appear to be using my
car more than the previous owners did they are starting to wear out
pretty quick! And once you have a tear there's no way of stopping it!
I'll be replacing mine within the next couple of weeks...
[snip]
> muffler bracket on right rear
[snip]
What's with this bracket? On my car I had the catalytic convertor
replaced by an unrestrictive piece of piping, but somehow I can't
seem to get the muffler back in straight!
The bracket above the alternator refuses to slide forward to where it
used to sit. The muffler is seated firmly, so that's not the problem.
My "problem" is that I now have one exhaust flush with the bumper
(left hand side) and on the other side it's allmost an inch further
out!
I've been trying to get it back to where it's supposed to be, but
that &%$&%^& bolt above the alternator is allmost impossible to reach
with any good tools; I tried getting an air-rachet on, but I can't
get it onto the bolt because of the proximity of the surrounding
metal...
Any tips anyone???
Thanks in advance,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 02:23:49 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel filter pictures uploaded
The pictures of the fuel filters have been posted and can be found at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Bosch%20fuel%20filter/
Steve
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 02:31:18 -0000
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lambda light
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> I know this has been covered in the past on the list, but I couldn't
> find information anywhere on the web-site. What is the Lambda
> light for (I think I already know, just want to make sure) and how/
> when does it shut off?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Richard
Richard - the Lambda light indicates when the oxygen sensor should
be replaced. It is turned on by the Lambda counter located
under the dash by the brake pedal/clutch pedal. It is a mechanical
counter that reaches 100 at roughly 30,000 miles. The lamp is reset
by resetting the counter.
Mike Griese
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