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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Running rough - alternator?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Fuel Accumulator Installation
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
3. Specialty Automotive web site
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Fuel Pressure
From: Dmcjal@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Starting problems
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. replacement short block question - what works
From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Fuel Accumulator Installation
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: Fuel Accumulator Installation
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Running rough - alternator?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Running rough - alternator?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. RE: replacement short block question - what works
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. DeLorean Movie director releases new film
From: dmcgauley@xxxxxxxxx
17. Auto Trans Final Drive Fluid 80w-90?
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
18. Air Condition
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
19. Arriving early at Eurofest
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
20. Rear Door Latch not catching good???
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
21. Re: leaky slave cylinder?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Rear Quarter Panel Removal
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Starting problems
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
24. EUROFEST
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Fuel Pressure
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 01:54:51 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Running rough - alternator?
Before you worry about the engine running smooth fix ALL coolant
leaks. In all likelyhood the plastic tank on the end of the radiator
is leaking. Replace the radiator with the one that has brass tanks and
pressure test to 15 psi for 15 min. After you have gotten the coolant
system leakproof a full tune-up consisting of spark plugs, ignition
wires, cap, and rotor will usually fix a rough idle. If it doesn't
then you may have a bad-dirty fuel injector.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm driving the Delorean around today with no
> alternator (well it doesnt work)...
>
> The car has plenty of power, starts ok and everything,
> but when its idleing it runs kind of rough, and
> occassionally when I am driving it at higher speeds,
> it gets a little rough...
>
> Is this most likely because there is not enough power
> going to the computer for it to think properly for
> fuel mixtures, etc?
>
> I am hoping it isnt the start of a fuel problem.
> although it shouldnt be.. gas is fresh in the car.
>
> Car is back in storage waiting for the motorola from
> DMC houston, and after that time for a cooling system
> pressure leak and repair....
>
> any advice/help appreciated,
> mike
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:48:59 EDT
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Accumulator Installation
Does someone have a quick reference guide as to properly replacing the fuel
accumulator and accompanying 2 lines? I'd like to provide it to a mechanic
and I'm aware you have to be cautious not to twist or kink the fuel line.
Can you do this job strictly from underneath the car or must you remove part
of the console inside the car to access some of the fuel line fittings?
Thought I read that someplace and wanted to provide him as much info as
possible. Thanks.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 19:16:44 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Specialty Automotive web site
At the risk of "blowing my own horn" I'd like to announce that Specialty
Automotive now, after some 17 months of delay, has an active web site,
www.delorean-parts.com. Please check it out.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 19:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
I recently noticed a phrase warning all who drive in
the heat to "get the air out of the cooling system" or
something like that. What must one do and how can you
tell if you are overheating... assuming the gauge
works??? I would hate for the "it's now a parts car"
light to come on. Yee gads!! What must I look for,
as this shall be my first summer with the D.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:27:10 EDT
From: Dmcjal@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Pressure
Let me throw a thought out for somebody to shoot down.
If you do not have a fuel pressure gauge, there is another approach to check
fuel pressure ASSUMING that the pressure regulator is OK.
Jump the fuel pump relay with the engine off and listen to the fuel return
line. No noise would indicate that fuel is not returning to the tank because
the pump cannot generate enough pressure to open the pressure regulator.
Should work, no?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 02:09:38 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Starting problems
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The use of ether or other starting fluids can be
hazardous to yourself and your vehicle. The use of ether or starting
fluids is suggested for experienced professionals under controlled
conditions, and the reader should take appropriate precautions
and gauge his/her skills before undertaking the test David outlines.
The use of ether carries the potential of engine damage and fire if
used indiscriminately.]
The amount of fuel comming out of the injectors is directly affected
by the position of the air sensor plate. At idle with the plate closed
you don't get alot of fuel out of them. If you push the plate down you
will see more fuel come out. If you adjusted the mixture screw be
aware that it is VERY sensitive and a SMALL adjustment will throw the
air fuel ratio far enough out of whack that the engine will just
sputter and die. Since you say that you took the engine apart can you
be sure that you have everything correctly timed? To rule out a fuel
problem pull the #7 fuse to the fuel pump and squirt a LITTLE BIT of
ether into the engine. If it doesn't start right up for a couple of
seconds start looking somewhere else like valve timing or distributer
timing or ignition wiring. Pull a spark plug and make sure it is
firing with a nice blue spark!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, srubano@xxxx wrote:
> Ok so here's my first post on a problem I am experiencing on my D
> after trying to start it after 4 years.
>
> I should start off with the following: I replaced the Fuel pump,
> accumulator and Fuel filter. I emptied out the tank and cleaned it
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:57:05 -0000
From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: replacement short block question - what works
well it turns out my "tap" is a "rap" and i gotta either split the
block and take a peek or drop a new one in, i have an opportunity to
pick up a short block from an 89 Eagle premier ES with low mileage,
this is a 3.0l block and i have been informed that "engine doesn't
have balancer shafts" whatever that might mean, i know i have to keep
my old oil pan, but will i need to do a head transplant?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:17:03 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Installation
It is all done from underneath with stubby wrenches and a set of SMALL
hands. Watch out for dripping fuel and you are right NEVER twist or
kink the lines.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, madmap70@xxxx wrote:
> Does someone have a quick reference guide as to properly replacing
the fuel
> accumulator and accompanying 2 lines? I'd like to provide it to a
mechanic
> and I'm aware you have to be cautious not to twist or kink the fuel
line.
> Can you do this job strictly from underneath the car or must you
remove part
> of the console inside the car to access some of the fuel line
fittings?
> Thought I read that someplace and wanted to provide him as much info
as
> possible. Thanks.
>
> Mark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:34:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
I was told by DMC houston that there is a bleeder
valve above the water pump....
Will a regular mechanic be able to work on the
Delorean cooling system? I've NEVER heard of having
to bleed a cooling system...
Mike
--- Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I recently noticed a phrase warning all who drive in
> the heat to "get the air out of the cooling system"
> or
> something like that. What must one do and how can
> you
> tell if you are overheating... assuming the gauge
> works??? I would hate for the "it's now a parts
> car"
> light to come on. Yee gads!! What must I look for,
> as this shall be my first summer with the D.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great
> prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 02:07:31 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
Doug, It's pretty critical that any engine doesn't over heat, DMC Joe
or I sell his Air bleeder for the coolant lines..... It's works great
and easy to install. Texas Heat is a killer also.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently noticed a phrase warning all who drive in
> the heat to "get the air out of the cooling system" or
> something like that. What must one do and how can you
> tell if you are overheating... assuming the gauge
> works??? I would hate for the "it's now a parts car"
> light to come on. Yee gads!! What must I look for,
> as this shall be my first summer with the D.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 03:18:57 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Get the air out of your coolins system" - do what??
The post you are referring to only hints that everyone should make
sure that their cooling system is in top shape for the summer. In
answering your question of "get the air out" this is a reference to
bleeding the cooling system of entrapped air. This is usually only
nessecary when you drain and refill the coolant. There is a bleeder
screw on the water pump and you should also loosen the right side
radiator hose to remove all air. keep the header bottle half full when
hot and if you notice you need to add coolant then you have a leak
which SHOULD be fixed. The cooling system of the Delorean is one of
the "weak links" and you must stay on top of it. The engine is very
durable but it won't survive being overheated!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently noticed a phrase warning all who drive in
> the heat to "get the air out of the cooling system" or
> something like that. What must one do and how can you
> tell if you are overheating... assuming the gauge
> works??? I would hate for the "it's now a parts car"
> light to come on. Yee gads!! What must I look for,
> as this shall be my first summer with the D.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 01:39:54 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator Installation
Mark, I think David said it very well. It's an underneath the car job
and sometimes a knuckle buster. Just take your time and be carefull
not to bend the lines, They will twist if they get in a hurry.The
books say the proper way to bleed the gas pressure is thru the cold
start valve.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, madmap70@xxxx wrote:
> Does someone have a quick reference guide as to properly replacing
the fuel
> accumulator and accompanying 2 lines? I'd like to provide it to a
mechanic
> and I'm aware you have to be cautious not to twist or kink the fuel
line.
> Can you do this job strictly from underneath the car or must you
remove part
> of the console inside the car to access some of the fuel line
fittings?
> Thought I read that someplace and wanted to provide him as much
info as
> possible. Thanks.
>
> Mark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:57:32 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Running rough - alternator?
Mike,
Driving your DeLorean with a defective alternator is not advisable. The ignition ECU needs 11+ volts to operate efficiently. Although your battery may be fully charged at 12 volts that voltage will drop rapidly with additional electrical loads. The brake lights alone can cause the operating voltage to fall below the 11 volt threshold.
Insufficient voltage to the ignition ECU will cause misfire which can result in carbon build up on critical components in the fuel and ignition system.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Pike
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 2:03 AM
Subject: [DML] Running rough - alternator?
I'm driving the Delorean around today with no
alternator (well it doesnt work)...
The car has plenty of power, starts ok and everything,
but when its idleing it runs kind of rough, and
occassionally when I am driving it at higher speeds,
it gets a little rough...
Is this most likely because there is not enough power
going to the computer for it to think properly for
fuel mixtures, etc?
I am hoping it isnt the start of a fuel problem.
although it shouldnt be.. gas is fresh in the car.
Car is back in storage waiting for the motorola from
DMC houston, and after that time for a cooling system
pressure leak and repair....
any advice/help appreciated,
mike
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 02:02:33 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Running rough - alternator?
Mike, As you probably know I sell the Delorean 150 amp alternator
which will deliver all the power you need. But It sounds more like a
tune up will fix the problem. Make sure there is no water in the
spark plug holes. I had a person call me the other day with simular
simptons and all it took was a paper towell or blow the water out if
you have an air tank. You could have one plug mis firing or a spark
plug wire broken on the inside because it was pulled off the wrong
way. Even if the alternator was marginal 12 volt about or better, it
should run ok, not great but ok. Just make sure when you get it's
wired right. You can also see that on the web site. Also, the air
flow may need to be adjusted and the 02 sensor replaced and re
adjusted after a tune up.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm driving the Delorean around today with no
> alternator (well it doesnt work)...
>
> The car has plenty of power, starts ok and everything,
> but when its idleing it runs kind of rough, and
> occassionally when I am driving it at higher speeds,
> it gets a little rough...
>
> Is this most likely because there is not enough power
> going to the computer for it to think properly for
> fuel mixtures, etc?
>
> I am hoping it isnt the start of a fuel problem.
> although it shouldnt be.. gas is fresh in the car.
>
> Car is back in storage waiting for the motorola from
> DMC houston, and after that time for a cooling system
> pressure leak and repair....
>
> any advice/help appreciated,
> mike
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:26:59 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: replacement short block question - what works
I am pretty sure the DMC does not have the balancer either. There are
only a few PRV-V6 setups with the balancer.
The Eagle is a even fire motor where the DMC is odd fire, so if you are
going to use the DMC heads, you will need to use the eagle cams. OR,
you can use the DMC heads with the DMC crank (if it will fit).
There was a lot of discussion about this a few weeks back, you may want
to check the archives.
-----Original Message-----
From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:57 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] replacement short block question - what works
well it turns out my "tap" is a "rap" and i gotta either split the
block and take a peek or drop a new one in, i have an opportunity to
pick up a short block from an 89 Eagle premier ES with low mileage,
this is a 3.0l block and i have been informed that "engine doesn't
have balancer shafts" whatever that might mean, i know i have to keep
my old oil pan, but will i need to do a head transplant?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:50:04 -0000
From: dmcgauley@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Movie director releases new film
Thought this might be of interest to a few of you. I'm currently
selling the documentary/movie "DeLorean" online right now
(http://www.deloreanmovie.com). The producer and director of that
movie (DA Pennebaker and Chris Hegedus) just released a new movie
that is getting rave reviews called "Startup.com." Their Web page
for the movie even lists a little information about the DeLorean
movie (http://www.startupdotcom-themovie.com/filmmakers.html).
BTW, they got nominated for the Academy Award for their
documentary "The War Room." I'm glad they picked the DeLorean as
their starting place! They had shunned away from advertising the
fact they made that movie, but have recently started including it on
their advertisements due to it's re-release on deloreanmovie.com.
Thanks again for all those who helped make the current release a
success!
-Daniel McGauley
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 18:10:28 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Auto Trans Final Drive Fluid 80w-90?
Hello everyone,
I want to change the Automatic transmission final drive fluid. I purchased 4
liters of Valvoline 80w-90.
Is this the correct fluid to use in the final drive?
Sincerely,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 01:48:21 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Air Condition
Group, My question is why is it that the air conditioning cold air
will cut the inside blower fans on and off more if the fan isn't
blowing to the max or at least on #2 or #3. If I leave it on 1st
speed, the inside fans come on and off more frequently. I use a clip
on $12.95 fan 12 volt in the car most of the time to circulate air,
to me it does a better job and I can direct it to where i want it to
go.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:29:16 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Arriving early at Eurofest
My wife and I will be arriving in Belfast on the 20th and we'll be at the
Europa for the whole week. If anyone else is arriving early and would like
to get together and see the sights, let me know. I'll be making use of a
local internet cafe once we get there.
========================================================
Ken Montgomery Sacramento, CA VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean/delorean01.htm
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
========================================================
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 02:56:12 -0000
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Rear Door Latch not catching good???
Hello,
On my drivers door the rear door latch (Latch closest to the engine)
seems to be having trouble latching when you close the door from
inside. However it closes just fine when shut from out side. I use
the pull strap and the inside door handle to close it but it makes no
difference...... PLEASE HELp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NoFlux@xxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:55:08 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: leaky slave cylinder?
Ryan,
In approximately 50% of master or slave cylinder replacements the other cylinder will fail within 6 month's of the initial replacement. We are in total agreement with PJ Grady that you should change both master and slave cylinders simultaneously.
As a side note, if you're on a tight budget you can go ahead and change only the slave cylinder. The master cylinder will usually leak for period of time before it completely fails. If you decide to go this route you should occasionally inspect the piston section of the master clutch cylinder located behind the brake and clutch pedals for "wetness".
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Foster
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 1:47 AM
Subject: [DML] leaky slave cylinder?
Hey list,
So here is something interesting, I have to keep filling up my clutch
resivor about once a week or so. Think if the line and the slave cylinder is
replaced that should fix the problem? I talked to thefolks down at PJ Grady
they suggested that I also replace the master cylinder.But I think it should
be ok. What do you guys think? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
Ryan- vin.#16301
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:56:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Quarter Panel Removal
Nick,
If the shop has never performed a DeLorean panel replacement be sure to supply them with the following:
From the DeLorean Workshop Manual
P:02:03 & P:02:03 REAR QUATER PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Because part of the rear fascia needs to be removed they should also have P:02:19
Be sure to include from the DeLorean Parts Manual
8/3/1 Rear Quarter Panel
8/5/1 Rear Fascia
8/4/3 Rear Louver
You might advise them to be especially careful when working with the rear fascia attaching fasteners. The bolts are molded into the fascia and can be easily damaged. Excessive force can cause the attachment bolts to be ripped out of the fascia interior.
BTW: I would suggest that you make photo copies of the above "manual" pages and submit only those pages to your repair facility. It not only eliminates the need for the mechanics to search through you manuals, you will also eliminate damage to your books while they are not in you possession.
I would answer your other question but I don't know what you are referring to as "driver side pivot arm". It sounds like you are describing the rear trailing arm but that item does not attach to the fiberglass body.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future....
----- Original Message -----
From: nbrommer@xxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 11:15 PM
Subject: [DML] Rear Quarter Panel Removal
Hello list,
Soon, I'll be taking my car into the bodyshop for some work that will
require either one or both rear quarter panels to be removed. Can
someone give me some detailed instructions on how to remove them that
I can pass along to the bodyshop to make sure they don't make any big
mistakes at my expense?
Incidentally, one of the repairs being made is the driver side pivot
arm. It seems the fiberglass has collapsed where the pivot arm
connects into the car. I bought re-inforcement brackets to help fix
the problem, has anyone ever dealt with this? I'd love to know a
little about this fix!
Nick
VIN 3092
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:53:03 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Starting problems
All my timings are correct. If I spray a small amount of starting
fluid into the intake the engine will start right up and idle for a
second then die. That rules out any timing issues and/or ignition
problems. I am very familiar with engine timing's and such. The Bosch
fuel system is very new to me since I've worked primarily on MFI &
TBI electronic fuel injection systems. I just ordered a Fuel pressure
gauge for the Bosch K-Jetronic system from JC Whitney for $54.95
(could have gone to more parts for my car, oh well.
Right now I have these symptoms since I last posted. I have taken all
6 injectors out and placed them in cups. I jump-started the fuel pump
and let it run. Only three of the six injectors spray a small amount
of fuel. When I push down on the air meter flap the amount of fuel
increases coming out of the injectors for a brief moment then
decreases. I've taken out the other three injectors that weren't
spraying and I attached my shop air hose to it. I set the pressure to
apporx 75lbs and shot some air into the injector. All of them opened
up without a problem. Any pressure less than approx 60lbs the
injectors stay closed. I sprayed some cleaner into the injector then
again applied 75 lbs of shop air into the injectors; the cleaner
sprayed out the nozzle what seemed to be a good spray pattern. I've
checked my system for fuel leaks and I don't have any. I am assuming
that maybe my warm up regulator may be bad/stuck open and letting TOO
much fuel back to the fuel tank causing a low pressure? I guess I'll
find out when I receive my Fuel gauges sometime next week. i will
admit I have tinkered with the CO adjustment and now it's probably
all out of whack. Anyone now where I can start it as a reference
point once I figure out my fuel pressure problem?
Thanks to all that responded to my questions.
If anyone else has anymore suggestions please feel free to email me.
I am trying to get my D ready for my wedding in 4 months and I still
have a lot of work to do!! :) I am starting to get frustrated with
this problem (not the car, just the fuel system).
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The use of ether or other starting fluids can be
> hazardous to yourself and your vehicle. The use of ether or starting
> fluids is suggested for experienced professionals under controlled
> conditions, and the reader should take appropriate precautions
> and gauge his/her skills before undertaking the test David
outlines.
> The use of ether carries the potential of engine damage and fire if
> used indiscriminately.]
>
>
>
> The amount of fuel comming out of the injectors is directly
affected
> by the position of the air sensor plate. At idle with the plate
closed
> you don't get alot of fuel out of them. If you push the plate down
you
> will see more fuel come out. If you adjusted the mixture screw be
> aware that it is VERY sensitive and a SMALL adjustment will throw
the
> air fuel ratio far enough out of whack that the engine will just
> sputter and die. Since you say that you took the engine apart can
you
> be sure that you have everything correctly timed? To rule out a
fuel
> problem pull the #7 fuse to the fuel pump and squirt a LITTLE BIT
of
> ether into the engine. If it doesn't start right up for a couple of
> seconds start looking somewhere else like valve timing or
distributer
> timing or ignition wiring. Pull a spark plug and make sure it is
> firing with a nice blue spark!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:37:23
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: EUROFEST
At last I see people are starting to send in their photo for the Who's who
in Belfast? section. Still, there are space for many more, so send in your
photo to Dave. That way we can easily ID each other in Belfast.
Also, those of you who bought the DMC News T-shirt some time ago, please put
that in your luggage as well. If there ever was a good time to use it, it
most certainly is the right time in Belfast!
Got good ol' #06759 back from the garage...new disc brakes all around, new
fluids etc. Ready for the long journey. Will start on Sunday, then having a
torsion bar adjustment + lowering of the DeLorean done at the DeLorean
experts in England, Wingray Autos Liverpool.
Will then drive through Wales, Ireland before arriving in Northern Ireland
on Thursday late. Return trip to Norway will go through Scotland, so I get
to see all of the British isles...
My mobile phone will be on during the journey, so if anyone else from Europe
is driving to Belfast feel free to call or send a text message or two. Maybe
we can hook up and drive together to the north?
My mobile number is +47 92417104
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
SEE YOU ALL IN BELFAST! THIS EVENT WILL ROCK!!!
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 03:10:25 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure
Your "test" will tell you if fuel is flowing but you can do that by
cracking loose a fuel line. On the really tough to diagnose cases
there is no replacement for having the right equipment. In 99% of the
time working on the fuel system a fuel gauge is not required.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Dmcjal@xxxx wrote:
> Let me throw a thought out for somebody to shoot down.
>
> If you do not have a fuel pressure gauge, there is another approach
to check
> fuel pressure ASSUMING that the pressure regulator is OK.
>
> Jump the fuel pump relay with the engine off and listen to the fuel
return
> line. No noise would indicate that fuel is not returning to the
tank because
> the pump cannot generate enough pressure to open the pressure
regulator.
>
> Should work, no?
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