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There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Replacement tranny?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Fuel System..Still
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: Replacement tranny?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Replacement tranny?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. RE: Re: oil filters
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: oil filters
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Digest Number 517
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
12. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. Lifting a lowered car (MacGyver Challenge)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Ferrari story - but relevant!
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
16. Tires
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Fuel System..Still
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
18. RE: DMC Needed for Corporate Event in NYC
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
21. Re: Fuse box wire colors
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
22. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:51:26 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: my first real drive (not without its problems)
Do you have the baffle in the fuel tank? If the baffle is there, is the
return line fastened to the baffle.
How much fuel is there in the tank when this was happening?
If you have the old NCT's on the car and/or the tires have been sitting for
a long time, you may have flat spots on them. How are your shocks? If they
are originals, they may be shot, My D bobbed and weaved all over the place
until I changed the shocks.
I drove from Mobile to Los Angeles with my original NCT's a couple of years
ago, in the mornings when the tires were cold, the car rode rough until the
tires warmed up and became round again.
BTW, I installed Yoko's AVS and am very pleased with the ride and handling.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 12:12 AM
Still, it's probably not normal for the car to feel like
it's going to shake apart if you go over 40.
its frequency increased with our speed, and it sounded
remarkably like a helicopter.
Aside from this, the car made it about 10 miles from home without
major incident. It was after I turned around and started heading
back home that the engine decided to die four times:
4) Slowed from 25MPH and turned left onto the road I live on.
Accelerating out of the turn caused the same old sputtering and
bucking, and the engine died. Had just enough momentum built up to
coast into my driveway.
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:55:53 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
Payne, You shouldn't have an excessive amount of idle fluctuation. I can't
see any on my tack during cold Idle. The air flow meter adjusted properly
also regulates the air going into the engine. In turn the position of the air
flow meter piviots the control plunger in the fuel distributor. Changing the
position of the control plunger which allows gas to flow into the upper part
of the fuel distributor going to the injectors. If this is out of adjustment,
then the control plunger is opening to much allowing more gas to go to the
injectors, thus a richer mixture. The fluctuation your experiencing is more
than likley the 02 / Lambda system seeking the right air to gas mixture. I
would heat the car up and take a 3mm long handle allen wrench and adjust the
air flow meter for the least amount of fluctuation. The proper way to adjust
it is to take it to a shop and put an analyzer on the exhaust and adjust the
air to fuel mixture. Then replace the 02 sensor and plugs then readjust. The
readings will be different after 02/pulgs are installed. If you do it before,
then you may re foul both. Make sure all the air mixture screws air gently
closed down. Most of this info can be found in the workshop manuel D:01:05 +
if you have them. Other things that can contribute to the rich problem are
the Control pressure regulator and the cold start valve. But I think it's
just the adjustment.
Hope this helps
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Call if I can help
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:02:32 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Replacement tranny?
I would be interested to know what was done to the transmission to
"beef it up?" If it is slipping under heavy acceleration here are a
few suggestions, increase line pressure, change the springs in the
clutch packs to heavier springs, go to a racing type trans fluid,
install an auxilliary cooler, remove the filter, change the stall
speed of the torque converter and "loosen" it up so it can slip more.
Modify the valve body to get quicker and more forceful shifts and or
adjust the cable to the govenor to shift earlier, adjust the downshift
micro to engage sooner. Watch the drum of C-1. It is only spot-welded
and under high loads has been known to fail! All of these suggestions
are not for the faint of heart. The way you are using the transmission
and these modifacations WILL shorten the life of the transmission.
There are few if any alternatives to the trans in the Delorean,
certainly none that are economically practical.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, at88mph@xxxx wrote:
> I'm looking for a tranny to replace the stock DeLorean tranny with.
I've
> finished up the engine swap and the car is running fine EXCEPT for
the
> transmission. Has anyone swapped out the DeLorean transmission for
in advance,
>
>
> Duke
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:12:34 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
The first place to start is inside the fuel tank! Make sure all of the
parts are there, in good shape and corrctly installed. The symptoms
indicate a bad or missing pickup hose, baffle assembly, etc. I bet you
also have about 1/2 tank of fuel or less and the problems aren't as
noticeble if you keep it full. The heavy vibrations could be a bad or
out of balance tire or a bent rim.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, webmaster@xxxx wrote:
> This evening was my first opportunity to get the D out and drive it
> around.
>
> Never having driven a DeLorean before this one, I have no frame of
> reference. Still, it's probably not normal for the car to feel like
> it's going to shake apart if you go over 40. My girlfriend compared
> the overall feeling to being in one of those vibrating massage
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:18:05 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel System..Still
Just move patrs from side to side until you eliminate the trouble. You
could try 1 injector or 1 hose at a time. It is possible that there is
dirt clogging the 3 ports to the injectors on 1 side. If that is the
case there are places that can service the Fuel Distributer. It can
also be disassembled and cleaned although many do not recommend it.
There is a metal gasket that should be replaced or you might have fuel
leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello List,
> Well I'm still trying to get my fuel system repaired and working.
> All three of the injectors on the rider side are free flowing, lots
of gas. Each will fill a quart jar in just over one minute.
> So, three new injectors from DMC Houston! Look good but same
problem on all three. This can not be a bad injectors, one maybe, 2
would be a real push but all three bad, doing the same thing as the
old ones, not likely.
> What goes on inside the fuel distributor?
> Why all three on one side and the ones on the other side seem to
work correctly. The three on the driver side will inject but I have to
depress the air intake to get them to mist very much at all.
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:23:42 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacement tranny?
No, not the Corvair, no transaxle, very rugged separate transmission and
differential.
at88mph@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I'm looking for a tranny to replace the stock DeLorean tranny with. I've
> finished up the engine swap and the car is running fine EXCEPT for the
> transmission. I know the Fiero has a similar design to the DeLorean and so
> does the Corvair (ie being a transaxle unit)
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:49:35 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
This may be way off but have you checked to see that you are getting
a spark in each cylinder? Or if there is the proper amount of gas
being sprayed into each cylinder? The reason why I ask this is if you
have a "dead" cylinder (no spark, no gas) it will cause the engine to
shake like crazy. As the engine is idling does it shake while it's
parked? If so open the hood and watch the engine...if it's bouncing
around in there ,and I mean REALLY bouncing around, then that's where
your problem is and start checking it for spark at each cylinder,
inspect the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and verify that you are
getting fuel to each cylinder. BE VERY careful when working around
the ignition system, if you get zapped you'll find that your arm
can/will go numb or worse...so be very careful! If it was just a Fuel
problem like you said (starving the engine) you would have a hard
time starting it. If it is a dead cylinder the car will startup with
no problems but will usually sputter and die after being reved, and
also cause the car to shake.
If it only shakes as you drive past 40, then the problem could lie in
the suspension (steering rack, wheels, etc).
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, webmaster@xxxx wrote:
> This evening was my first opportunity to get the D out and drive it
> around.
>
> Never having driven a DeLorean before this one, I have no frame of
> reference. Still, it's probably not normal for the car to feel
like
> it's going to shake apart if you go over 40. <SNIP>
> The last time I felt a car turn into a bucking bronco on me, it was
a
> problem with the auto tranny not downshifting properly on
> deceleration. The conditions are different with the D, but the end
> result sure feels the same. I initially though I might have gunk
in
> the fuel line and it's starving the engine...but wouldn't that
cause
> it to simply stall and die instead of jerking around?
>
> Any help you can give this newbie would be greatly appreciated!
>
> ________________
> Todd Masinelli
> VIN 6681
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:05:54 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Replacement tranny?
I forgot one more thing you can try. Block the vacuum line to the
modulater valve, it is supposed to make the shifts a little softer but
that is not what you are looking for! Try this first but be aware of
the increased loads the trans will have to absorb!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, at88mph@xxxx wrote:
> I'm looking for a tranny to replace the stock DeLorean tranny with.
I've
> finished up the engine swap and the car is running fine EXCEPT for
the
> transmission. Has anyone swapped out the DeLorean transmission for
another
> transmission? I know the Fiero has a similar design to the DeLorean
and so
> does the Corvair (ie being a transaxle unit) Also Porshe but I'm
trying to
> keep the cost down and I don't believe Porshe has many automatic
trannys
> available. Has anyone done this?
>
> Here's the prob I'm having with the auto tranny. Its been beefed
up to
> handle the extra hp of the Vortec 4.3 so its not a strength issue.
The car
> runs great and shifts normal except under heavy acceleration. If I
floor
> it, as it gets into the upper RPM range, it starts to slip slightly
like it
> is going to neutral out. I've changed out the computer governor and
its
> working fine. Anyone have any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Duke
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:52:21 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: oil filters
>You don't want your oil filter to have a check valve in the DeLorean.
>It causes higher pressures that can ruin your oil pressure sender and
>actually shorten the life of your engine.
>---Dan
__________________________________________________________
Where are you getting this information from????
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:13:34 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: oil filters
Dan, Let me explain why the anti-drain back valve filter or check valve as
you call it is so important in the Bosch oil filter and other applications. I
think you will better understand after this. Oil filters made for specific (
applications ) as in the De Lorean, we are a selected few.
If your oil filter is pointing down like in most cars, then the filter is
full of oil all the time, So when you start the car the filter doesn't have
to fill up before oiling your engine.
The De Lorean filter is mounted on the side of the engine and without the
anti-drainback for check valve filter, you will be starting the car without
oil in the filter so it will have to fill up the filter 1st before oil goes
to the engine. Without the anti-drainback valve you will promote more wear to
the engine because the filter won't hold oil because it will drain back to
the level of the car and lubrication will be slower.
If your running the recommended weight oil 20/50 or 20/40 I would want the
oil there all the time to promote no wear during start up. This is also why
PTE/Teflon was added to oil to help lessen the friction of metal from metal
during that critical time of start up and running.
This is like the fuel accumulator holding pressure in the gas system of the
De Lorean. Without the constant pressure on the fuel system, then the cars
would be harder to start. This also why you don't pump the gas pedal when
starting the De Lorean.
Sending units are cheap compared to the engine and I can't see companies
spending millions of dollars designing an oil filter to such high specs just
to hurt the engine.
I will stick with Bosch, and other companies that make filters for the
specific application. Anybody can roll up paper and put it in a screw on can
and call it an oil filter and in certain applications it will work. Hey. Les.
Remember the old days of oil filters. I hope this helps how important the oil
filter is to the life of the engine.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:12:46 EDT
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Digest Number 517
Hey Walt,
What a great observation!
Had my car for 20 years and always assumed the minor dimple in the door (
exactly where you said it should be ) happened during assembly.
It was on my list of "things to do".
It never occurred to me to look at other cars.
I assumed it was unique to my car.
Guess I'll take a look next time I'm in the door.
Nothing on the passenger side.
Original regulators.
Nice heads up !
Bob Zilla
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:46:09 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
Todd,
The first thing that I would look for is a missing or damaged fuel suction
line. As the fuel sloshes inside the tank, the fuel pump is intermittently
sucking air. By the time you try to restart the car, the fuel in tank has
settled down to where the fuel suction line is totally submerged again.
As a diagnostic, you might try filling the tank completely to see if your
problems go away with a full tank.
For the helicopter/vibrating chair phenomenon, it sounds like you might have
a bad tire. Otherwise, perhaps this is another symptom of a defective fuel
suction line. Can you tell if it is the engine that is bucking or the
running gear? If it's the engine, then maybe the fuel suction line is
rhythmically collapsing.
The fuel smell is another problem. Here are some places to stick your
nose:
If you smell it coming from your exhaust, then you are running too rich.
If you smell it mostly from inside the car, then I would suspect a faulty
fuel cap. The proper cap for a DeLorean is not vented for vacuum or
pressure. If it is allowed to vent, then the fuel vapors escape, cool,
become heavy and fall down and get sucked into the a/c intake.
If you smell it mostly in the rear around the left pontoon, then I would
suspect a bad connection at the vapor recovery canister inside the pontoon.
With age, a rubber cap will rot and fall off. Also, lines can get pulled
off of the canister, but since it is concealed inside the pontoon, it won't
be visible.
If you smell it mostly in the front of the car, then suspect a faulty fuel
pump boot and cover. If these are original on your car, then I'm sure they
will give problems.
The sound you hear in the engine compartment of buzzing like a mad hornet is
good. That is the frequency valve doing it's job. Become familiar to what
it sounds like because if you ever stop hearing it, then it means you have a
problem. The rest of y'all correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the frequency
valve supposed to run concurrently with the engine and never stop buzzing
unless the engine quits? I have read posts on the DML that state the
contrary. I understand that it is only the duty cycle of the buzz that
changes and not the whole signal that switches off.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:45:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lifting a lowered car (MacGyver Challenge)
Hi everyone!
I sent my car down to the DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove (Don
Steger) a couple months ago and had a ton of work done on it. It's the
best money I've spent since buying the DeLorean. It's my daily driver and
I can now honestly say that I trust my DeLorean 100% - because I trust Don
100%.
But I've got a bit of a problem now. Don lowered the car for me (looks
slick), and now I'm having a bit of a challenge of jacking it up. My floor
jack doesn't fit under the car at the jack points. If i drive the car up
on some 2x4s, I can get the floor jack under the frame at the rear of the
car (with a 2x4 on the jack of course). But even when on 2x4s, there's no
way of getting the jack under the front part of the frame to lift the
front up.
This weekend (or possibly next) I'm planning on changing the oil and
working on the brakes (all the brakes). What I was really hoping to do was
to get the car up on 4 jack stands, one at each jack point. I just can't
figure out how it would be possible to do, given the equipment that I
have. The only thing I could really do is get the back jacked up and on
jack stands while working on the back, and then using the DMC jack kit to
raise each of the front wheels one at a time.
So you've got a floor jack, some wood, a respectable set of tools, and a
Kragen down the road. What would you do? :)
-Christian
-3452 (almost registered in California)
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ferrari story - but relevant!
Here is an article I found (http://carpoint.msn.com/jump/news/jgnews_4019917_6.asp)that talks about how buying a Ferrari is not as expensive as most people think. I found myself substituting "Delorean" for "Ferrari" and the article still worked!
Dave
vin 16367
_____________________________________________________________
YourName@xxxxxxxxxxxx -- it's free from <a href="" href="http://www.delorean.com">http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:14:34 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
The cable housing is the part that is causing the dents. The dents are not
very obvious, but on my car, these are the worst dings on both my doors.
When looking straight at the doors, the dents barely obvious; however, when
viewed from standing close to the front or rear of the car and looking down
the side -- particularly at night -- the dents are very obvious. It makes
the familiar 'X' pattern on the hood look lame in comparison.
I'm thinking about installing the optional dealer stripes if only to conceal
the damage.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Doc <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>There is only the cable housing and the
>cable,(that runs inside the housing)that is located at the center of the
>door.
>
>Robert Starling
>Vin#05252
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:24:51 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Tires
Hello,Members
I have Bf Goodrich comp t/a tires on my D and think they are superb!
I thrash around in the Delorean on a daily basis here in the UK and I
have driven the car in all weather(Heavy rain * flooding)
Them tires don't slide at all,although I do have 255's on the back as
apposed to the 235 that should be.
Paul Vin 741 UK.
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:06:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel System..Still
For a description on what goes on inside of the fuel distributor,
follow this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/15924
When I get a chance I'll update the posting for items such as the
Primary Pressure Regulator and others.
It definately sounds like you have a problem with fuel delivery TO the
3 injectors. Before you touch the distributor, try connecting one of
the free flowing injectors and hoses to the distributor where one of
the 'clogged' injector hoses is connected to. This will determine if
the problem is with the hoses or not. If there is no change, then you
probably have an issue with your fuel distributor. As an alternative
to purchasing a new unit, there are BOSCH service centers that can
rebuild the unit for only a couple to a few hundred dollars I believe.
If your system is running too rich, it's because the 3 injectors that
are working are probably spraying out double the amount they normally
would. I wouldn't worry about your oil, nor your oxygen sensor just
yet. Granted the extra gas on the sensor isn't good, but it's not
going to go bad this quickly. I've had both my car, and my muffler
glowing red from a fuel mixture that was too rich. And my car runs
just fine now.
Anytime you are dealing with an issue with your car, only focus on the
problem at hand. It can be easier and cheaper to repair a whole lot of
little things than the more difficult/expensive item that is really
causing the issue. This kind of repairing is taxing of your patience,
your time, and your wallet. What you can spend on the little items can
add up to the cost of the one expensive item that you need, if not
exceed it in some cases. Trust me!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jerry Harry" <jerryHarry@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello List,
> Well I'm still trying to get my fuel system repaired and working.
> All three of the injectors on the rider side are free flowing, lots
of gas. Each will fill a quart jar in just over one minute.
> So, three new injectors from DMC Houston! Look good but same
problem on all three. This can not be a bad injectors, one maybe, 2
would be a real push but all three bad, doing the same thing as the
old ones, not likely.
> What goes on inside the fuel distributor?
<SNIP>
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:10:45 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DMC Needed for Corporate Event in NYC
I contacted Christine about this, and I am going to talk to her more
tomorrow.
How much does one usually rent their car out for? Anyone?
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 3:36 PM
To: dmcnews submit
Subject: [DML] DMC Needed for Corporate Event in NYC
Group:
I received the following to post to the list. Any in the NY area - here's a
way to make back of few of your expenses on keeping the car running. I know
very few if any DMC owners will ever rent for for private use, but these
corporate deals can be lucrative and often you can drive the car for them
yourself, it may only be for display purposes.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:26:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From what you've described, what you are looking at is probably
inappropriate closing of the doors. The stainless steel used in the
DeLorean body panels is much softer than typical carbon steel unsed in
conventional cars. Example: When I first got my car, I used to alyways
grab the door on the section right below the rear bottom corner of the
window. Did this daily durring the hot summer in an effort to avoid
burning my hands. What I have ended up with is an indentation of the
glass and rubber seal around into the door. Not very noticable, but I
am still kicking myself over it >:(
Next time you see a car that has this indentation in the door, ask the
owner to close the door and observe them while they do. See where they
grab the door at.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I have noticed the same dents in every DeLorean car door that I have
looked
> for them including both the passenger and driver's doors. These
dents on
> every car are located approximately in the center of the door just
below the
> molding. On some cars it is much more noticeable than others,...
<SNIP>
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:48:43 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, webmaster@xxxx wrote:
> This evening was my first opportunity to get the D out and drive it
> around.
>
> Never having driven a DeLorean before this one, I have no frame of
> reference. Still, it's probably not normal for the car to feel like
> it's going to shake apart if you go over 40.
<SNIP>
No, it's not normal for any car to shake that bad. Aside from having
your tires and wheels inspected/balanced, I would check the condition
of your chassis mounts. A total of 12 bolts can be found in the car: 2
are located in the trunk above the shock towers; 6 are in the
passenger compartment. 2 of these are the bolts that are attached to
the seat belts. the other 4 are at the same level in the center
console behind the seats, and at the 'mouth' of the footwells (you'll
need to lift the carpet to access). Final 4 are located in the engine
bay. 2 are used to also secure the crossbrace. The remaining 2 are at
the rear of the engine compartment.(note: the drivers side bolt is
accessable via removal of the evap canister. the passenger side can
only be accessed if the facia is removed).
> 1) Drove 40MPH for several hundred feet, came to complete stop at
> stop sign, turned left and started to accelerate, car began to
> sputter and buck. Letting up on the accelerator or pressing it
> further didn't seem to have an effect, eventually engine died. Car
> started up again and ran fine.
<SNIP>
In almost all four cases that your engine died, your car was turning
left. You may ha ve a disconnected/rotten pickup hose in your fuel
tank connected to the baffle. Centrifical force sloshes the gas away
from the intake, and thus starves the engine. How much gas did you
have in the tank at the time?
Check all of these items first, and take everything from there.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:03:32 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuse box wire colors
Out of curiosity, what are some of the problems that folks are having
with thier fuse boxes that would require a new one? The 2nd day of
owning my car I replaced every single fuse in my block, and cleaned
all the connections by repeatedly inserting new fuses. When driving
the block is warm, but never hot.
Just wondering what what problems others were having that they would
need to replace the fuse block. Also curious as to what others would
consider an "upgrade".
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Is anyone considering making an original looking upgraded fuse
block? So
> far the only options I know of is the bypass a la carte method or
buying
> what John Hervey has on his web site.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:16:32 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
A little black appearance can be normal on the spark plug. But a
better description is needed to really diagnose any problems you may
or may not have. Follow the following link to see which picture
matches the appearance of your sparkplugs the best.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.htm
Idle fluctuation is totally different then a rough idle. A rough idle
in my car was when the entire car shook and rocked back and forth.
To determine any problems, describe both the hard starting, and any
accelleration problems you have.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
>The plugs are quite black, but still look fairly new. Should I try a
new oxygen
> sensor? After I start the car in the morning it seems like it's got
an
> excessive amount of idle fluctuation for a while. I've heard this
is
> normal, but I'm not sure to what extent. Can running too rich ever
foul the
> plugs?
<SNIP>
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