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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Angle Drive
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Warming Up ??
From: "James Teston" <orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Engine : to fix or replace ... that is the question?
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Warming Up ??
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Warming Up ??
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Warm up?
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Cousin!
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Why I didn't make it to Cleveland RE: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Relay Updates
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: comparison
From: Chris Yates <My1983DMC@xxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Warming Up ??
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat@xxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: gas overflow
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Warm up?
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: comparison
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech@xxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Warming Up ??
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Cousin!
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Engine : to fix or replace ... that is the question?
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: DMC2 Watch
From: "Mark Conner" <mkconner@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: comparison
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
20. Electric Window Off Track! Help!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Return of the celebrity owners...
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
22. Power Lock Harness
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Re: Dentless at last.
From: "wayne selden" <w.selden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Needle still straight up!
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. trip
From: "Archie G Hill" <ahelio1@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 00:01:26 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Angle Drive
With all of the talk lately about what lubricant to use in the angle drive, I was wondering what the proper method is for "injecting" the lube into the drive. Any help?
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 05:15:10 -0000
From: "James Teston" <orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Warming Up ??
In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive the
car as soon as the engine has started. Do not warm up the car by
allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery." (it's
on page 15)
Is that right ?? If I don't warm my D up for at least a few
minutes, it runs very rough, almost to the point of dying. But if I
let it warm up, it runs just fine.
Is that a typo, or why would it say that ??
Thanks,
James Teston #15314
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 19:16:04 +0800
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine : to fix or replace ... that is the question?
DMCers,
I'm about to commence having the refurbishment of my RHD DeLorean carried
out. The manual 3,790mile engine has been partly dismantled and left to sit
for 6 years. Anyone got any comments on my alternatives:-
1. Refurbish the existing that has had the valve covers and exhaust headers
off. (I have a complete automatic engine with 28k miles from my spares-DMC)
2. A Turbo engine : BAE single turbo or alternatives??? ........... I'm a
bit wary having had experience with turbo motorcycles and a 924Turbo ... how
reliable is a post-turboed engine?
3. Spend $5k and get a new Houston PRV?
By the way, I'm not interested in disfiguring the car to accommodate a V8 or
non-PRV engine!
I'll be using this car as a weekend driver but want max. reliability after
refurbishing.
Any comments and advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers, IAN vins 6425LHD & 0780RHD (& 1205spares)
*******************************************************
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:50:35 +0200 (DST)
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??
I experience the same as you. When cold the engine is very inresponsive
and I have to press the accelerator way down to get some power. But
when warm the engine is very responsive (after it runs for 5 min.).
I noticed that line in the manual too. But my guess is that this is
only true with a new engine. When the engine is 'broken in' (or how do
you call that in english) after the 1st couple of 1000 miles/Km nothing
can go really wrong when you warm up the engine before driving.
But then again I don't really know the ins and outs of this issue.
Maybe someone else has a more academic answer?
Sacha
On Sun, 27 Aug 2000 05:15:10 -0000, James Teston wrote:
> In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive the
> car as soon as the engine has started. Do not warm up the car by
> allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery." (it's
> on page 15)
>
> Is that right ?? If I don't warm my D up for at least a few
> minutes, it runs very rough, almost to the point of dying. But if I
> let it warm up, it runs just fine.
>
> Is that a typo, or why would it say that ??
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 09:35:00 EDT
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??
On my D, from a cold start, it also runs rough and does die on occasion.
Once
I start driving, it runs pretty smooth.
Dave L.
vin #02578
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:13:52 -0000
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Warm up?
Those of you with a rough idle or no power at cold start have
a problem. You should be able to drive away after just starting
the car. The reason for the line in the manual is to reduce
emissions. Driving the car gets the car up to temperature faster,
which heats the oxygen sensor in the exhaust to it's operating
temperature, getting the engine control to closed loop faster.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 10:23:31 -0700
From: "Rob Hook" <robhook@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cousin!
Did you say VIN number 11096? You're definately the closest VIN I've ever
seen to my 11090. Where are you located?
> I wanted to share a good Delorean experience today. After 8 months of
>ownership I finally have 11096 dentless at last. When I purchased it there
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 10:23:51 -0400
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Why I didn't make it to Cleveland RE: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
Thanks for the compliment Dusty. I liked the paint job too. But it was put on when the car was new and it was showing the signs of it's age. What I wanted to do was make the car look a little better for Cleveland by repainting some of the black parts of the car. Unfortunately, the type of paint I bought reacted with the paint on the car, ruining the paint job entirely. I was not a happy camper to say the least. Cleveland was not possible, and I had a decision to make. Well, I decided to remove all the panels strip the car. No body filler at all was found. Only 80 grit sandscratches from a DA sander. I weighed the options and decided that it was not in my best interest to lay out a few thousand dollars to repaint the car. So, I opted to resurface the stainless. It was the more laborious of the two options, but it was more affordable, and brought up the value of the car.
Does it look good? Well, if you're gonna be at the VA meet, you just might see it for yourself. I'm gonna try to get there if I can. Not that the car wouldn't make it... that's not the problem. Time constraints on my end are the only ones.
I will have pictures of my car on the web very soon for all to see.
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 10:56:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Relay Updates
Jim,
You should, without a doubt, up grade you cooling fans and AC blower circuit breakers (P.M. #22, 23) if this has not been previously done. Although most of the factory installed relays in the electrical compartment are not of great quality they actually have a rather low failure rate.
Purchasing the Relay Update kit is a good investment because it includes not just quality replacement relays but the previously mentioned 35 and 40 amp circuit breakers are part of the kit.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Reeve
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 1:38 AM
Subject: [DML] Relay Updates
As I slowly work my way through a full inspection of my car, this
question comes to mind. I have mostly all original relays. I know
there is an update kit for them, but I was wondering how important it
really is. Do the original relays pose a fire hazard? Since I already
have the fan fail bypass, I was thinking of just ordering the 40 amp
circuit breaker for the cooling fans. Is this a good idea to leave the
relays alone or not? Right now I'm trying to figure out a logical order
to do my purchases and would appreciate any input that anybody may
have. Thanks.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 11:11:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Yates <My1983DMC@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: comparison
Lundin,
I am 15 years of age and just saw my second DeLorean.
I asked the guy If the D was quick, and he said it is
just perfect. I also asked him about the turning
radius
and he said it was fantastic.
ttyl
Chris
--- calfunca@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hello List:
> I am 14 so it will be a while until I drive a D but
> I was wondering about
> this. I have driven two cars one of which when I am
> legally able to drive I
> will own, it is a Mercedes-Benz 1977 300D (Diesel)
> the other is a 1997
> Cadillac (I hate the Cadillac). The Cadillac has a
> horrible turning radius
> and accelerates way to fast (in my point of view).
> If any of you list members
> have driven the Mercedes you know they have a great
> turning radius and they
> aren't terribly fast (I'm a speed demon but I don't
> want to kill myself). I
> was wondering if the D has a great Turing radius and
> if it didn't accelerate
> very fast like the Mercedes.
>
> Lundin
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
_______________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:41:53 -0400
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??
> "Do not warm up the car by allowing it to idle for long
> periods with the car stationery."
> Is that right ?? If I don't warm my D up for at least a few
> minutes, it runs very rough, almost to the point of dying.
No typo. The owner's manual is correct.
My DeLorean developed a similar problem over the years. (No such problem when
new). After replacing the fuel injectors and a variety of other fuel related
components without success, I finally traced the problem to semi-solid deposits
forming on the interior workings of the fuel distributor. I simply dumped two
bottles of off-the-shelf fuel injector cleaner into something less than a half
tank of gas. After several days of running this mixture the problem vanished.
How do I know it was the fuel distributor? Because I replaced everything else
that gas ran through (fuel pump, filter, etc.), and someone suggested it might
be foreign material in the fuel distributor. That's when I tried fuel injector
cleaner. It worked straight away.
Total cost: less than 10 bucks.
Ed Thompson (#06419 since 1982)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 11:09:35 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: gas overflow
Aliza,
I have never been able to pump gas into my Delorean at the max flow rate.
It always ends up spitting gas at me. The explanation I got in a tech
session at Cleveland was that the air vent valve was most likely at fault.
The line that lets air escape has a valve to revent gas from flowing out if
the car is inverted. Pumping the gas at full volume can make that valve
slam shut, and therefore make the gas get backed up.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695
> -----Original Message-----
> From: brownalizat@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:brownalizat@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 3:09 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] gas overflow
>
>
> Hi Group:
>
> Has anyone had this problem with their car, where the gas backflows
> out before the tank is yet full? I have this happen three times now,
> am I just not putting the nozzle in right? I have never had this
> problem with any of our other vehicles.
>
> thanks for your input.
>
> Aliza 7003
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 18:21:25 +0200 (DST)
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Warm up?
I don't see it as a real problem, the engine just acts like it's cold
when it's cold. But it never dies and doesn't have a rough idle. But
the engine definitely acts different in the 1st 5 minutes though. But
I've seen/noticed that in other cars as well. Don't all gas engines run
better when warmed up?
Sacha
On Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:13:52 -0000, Mike & Ann Griese wrote:
> Those of you with a rough idle or no power at cold start have
> a problem. You should be able to drive away after just starting
> the car. The reason for the line in the manual is to reduce
> emissions. Driving the car gets the car up to temperature faster,
> which heats the oxygen sensor in the exhaust to it's operating
> temperature, getting the engine control to closed loop faster.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 09:54:19 -0700
From: "Gabe W." <thecreech@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: comparison
I think you guys need to learn at least basic car info. I can't do big
repairs or anything on a car but at least I know how to determine
"quickness". The car was criticized(and still is) for its lack of power. You
don't buy a delorean for "quickness".
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Yates" <My1983DMC@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] comparison
> Lundin,
>
> I am 15 years of age and just saw my second DeLorean.
> I asked the guy If the D was quick, and he said it is
> just perfect. I also asked him about the turning
> radius
> and he said it was fantastic.
> ttyl
> Chris
>
>
>
> --- calfunca@xxxxxxx wrote:
> > Hello List:
> > I am 14 so it will be a while until I drive a D but
> > I was wondering about
> > this. I have driven two cars one of which when I am
> > legally able to drive I
> > will own, it is a Mercedes-Benz 1977 300D (Diesel)
> > the other is a 1997
> > Cadillac (I hate the Cadillac). The Cadillac has a
> > horrible turning radius
> > and accelerates way to fast (in my point of view).
> > If any of you list members
> > have driven the Mercedes you know they have a great
> > turning radius and they
> > aren't terribly fast (I'm a speed demon but I don't
> > want to kill myself). I
> > was wondering if the D has a great Turing radius and
> > if it didn't accelerate
> > very fast like the Mercedes.
> >
> > Lundin
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> > policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.ca address at http://mail.yahoo.ca
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:31:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Warming Up ??
On Sun, 27 Aug 2000, James Teston wrote:
> In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive the
> car as soon as the engine has started. Do not warm up the car by
> allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery." (it's
> on page 15)
In 1981 most engines were still carbureted and many DeLorean owners had
never owned or even driven a fuel-injected car before. It is common
practice with a carburetor to let the car warm up for a few minutes before
you drive it.
This isn't necessary with a fuel injected engine. Fuel injection systems
are capable of getting engines to run decently as soon as they are
started. (Of course, it is still better for your engine to drive it
somewhat gently for a few minutes). Letting them warm up wastes fuel and
makes emissions worse.
You may have a problem with your cold-start enrichment circuit. You may
also need to check your timing and spark plugs (you do not need a new
oxygen sensor). Your car should run correctly right away.
> Is that a typo, or why would it say that ??
Well... it should say "stationary" instead of "stationery." :}
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:38:40 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cousin!
Rob,
Sorry I hit send by mistake. As I was saying its nice to have someone
close to your vin to compare notes with.
Bill (11096)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:40:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine : to fix or replace ... that is the question?
On Sun, 27 Aug 2000, ian wrote:
> 1. Refurbish the existing that has had the valve covers and exhaust
> headers off. (I have a complete automatic engine with 28k miles from
> my spares-DMC)
Depending on where the engine has been stored, you might find that the
internal parts have corroded if they have been exposed for six years. If
you think the engine is in good shape internally you could probably put it
back together and use it.
It would probably be simpler to use your spare engine (if you know it is
in good condition).
> 2. A Turbo engine : BAE single turbo or alternatives??? ...........
> I'm a bit wary having had experience with turbo motorcycles and a
> 924Turbo ... how reliable is a post-turboed engine?
The BAE single turbo kit is no longer available, but the Island twin turbo
kit is. This is a fairly expensive option and the turbos are less useful
on an automatic engine due to the gearing. But the reliability isn't
affected very much.
> 3. Spend $5k and get a new Houston PRV?
This is a good idea if you want them to put the new high-performance parts
on. But, you could also send them your 3800 mile engine, have them look
it over and modify for performance, and return to you. It might be
cheaper that way.
> By the way, I'm not interested in disfiguring the car to accommodate a
> V8 or non-PRV engine!
I think "disfiguring" is a strong word. It's possible to do an engine
swap without making any structural changes to the car. But, you do lose
originality; I probably wouldn't do an engine swap on a rare RHD car
myself :}
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 18:57:18 -0000
From: "Mark Conner" <mkconner@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC2 Watch
Can anyone supply more information about the "New Delorean" if it
exists.
I did a whois search on the DeloreanTime.com website and found it is
registered to John Delorean at 500 Airport Executive Park Suite 516
Nanuet, NY 10954.
Also, I found the Administrative contact is Randy Popkave of RDP
Productions, Inc. 500 Airport.... 845-426-1014....www.rdpvideo.com
which is a advertising/video production company.
Also by viewing the source code of the website (deloreantime.com) it
was produced by someone names "James"....maybe James Espey????
"/CreationDate (D:20000824033458)
/Producer (Acrobat Distiller 3.01 for Power Macintosh)
/Creator (QuarkXPress: LaserWriter 8 8.7) /Author (James)"
I called the number on the watch offer
Delorean Time Inc.
62 Burd St.
Nyack, NY
845-358-2700
It is some sort of marketing company, Bob Moresco is the contact
person....
Another bit on info, it's only a short drive from Nyack, NY to
Nanuet, NY about 10 minutes according to yahoo maps.
Anymore Info Anyone??
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "JDL" <jdl@xxxx> wrote:
> Had lunch with John DeLorean today. To confirm, he is still trying
to come
> out with another car, but his interests are quite diversified and
he is
> getting involved with a number of ventures. Still, as those of you
who met
> him here in Cleveland in June, he is still a dynamic fellow at 75
and with
> the bankruptcy off his back...who knows what kind of ventures he
might be
> involved in and will make a valuable contribution to.
>
> David Levey
> #6377 Cleveland
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gabe W." <thecreech@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 8:59 PM
> Subject: [DML] DMC2 Watch
>
>
> > I just received an email from the DMC2 mailing list on the watch
and have
> this to say. Delorean should give us more info because a 3,000
dollar
> investment is a little much when we know little about the car and
have no
> gurantee it will even come out.
> >
> > Think though, if it did, the effects it would have! What if it
becomes a
> very popular top selling car? Original deloreans could go up in
value yet at
> the same time if the new delorean really is 20,000 and really does
go from
> 0-60 in 3.6 seconds and keeps the greatness of the original
delorean,
> who(buying a car for a daily driver) would buy the original
delorean at the
> same price with still problems having to do with a 20 year old car.
> >
> > Personally, if the new delorean does come out and I haven't
purchased an
> older delorean(very unlikely), I would seriously consider the new
car. But,
> sometimes its hard to keep the same style as the original and I
know John
> Delorean wasn't happy with the original(after his original ideas
were taken
> away by lotus) so how do we know how DMC2 will turn out?
> >
> > Hmm, what if it ends up like the sequal to back to the future?
(although I
> liked it, the reviewers didn't take to it well, of course the
reviewers
> didn't take well to the original delorean either)
> >
> > Anyways, I'm very excited
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules
at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderator@xxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 12:23:33 -0700
From: comet6974@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: comparison
The turning radius of the Delorean is okay. Of the cars we own it is
around the middle of the bunch. Our truck is awful and needs almost twice
as much as any other car, the smaller cars have much better turning
radii. The turning radius is not poor, but it is definitely not great. I
know it has been said before but it sounds like it needs to be said
again, In regards to speed, If you want a fast car go buy a Porsche,
Corvette, or other sporty car. A Delorean is not slow, but at 9 seconds
0-60 and a top speed of 120mph, even our 92 mustang can beat the
Delorean.
Trevor Johnson
#6974 & 4055
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 19:48:04 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electric Window Off Track! Help!
Hello again.
This week has been a troublesome week with my DeLorean. It has been serviced
at a garage which I fully trust. Haven't made any mistakes before, but the
previous week was bad for them. Lots of small things happening in which they
will have to take my DeLorean back to fix things that should have been right
when I had it serviced. Its on them of course, but this means a few lesser
days to drive my DeLorean this season :(
I've learned one thing, do not say "yes" to a garage to have your DeLorean
serviced when your trusted mechanic is away on holidays! I had a car show
coming up and was eager to attend, but I've learnt my lesson.
Do not rush things...
Turns out that the few things my mechanic did before he went away on
vacation was as expected. Excellent. The things that do not function now as
desired was done by others....Oh well... Anything can be fixed, right? ;)
The thing that is not functioning now is the electric window on the
passenger side. The garage installed new window motor assys, and did an
excellent job on the drivers side, this window runs up and down smoothly and
closes correctly.
However, the passenger side window makes noise and ratches with the new
window regulators. When fully up it does not close 100% in the front. That
is, the window is inside the track on the permanent window, but is not
fitting. There's a little glitch in the front of the electric window, so
that if it rains, the water will come inside the door.
I guess that the garage will be able to fix it but I could need some tips
and advice that I can tell them, so they dont spend time on something else
that isn't relevant for the window to work as it should.
I have examined the passenger door carefully. This is what I found:
1) The window regulator is installed correctly, same installation as on the
drivers door.
2)The electric window itself has two tracks on the left (front) and on the
right (back) side. The electric window is attached to the regulator arm by
two locknuts. The electric window's right track follows the right track
which is inside the door, whereas the left track of the window and the left
track inside the door is NOT making contact. This is what makes the noise.
When I move the window from fully closed to open position, I can see that
the left front is not making contact...the assy slides further down in the
door, the noise can be heard, and I would guess that this is the place where
the window indeed get inside the track as it should.
Same thing with the window open. I move it up, then the noise, then I can
see the window coming up and not being in the track. Its hard to hear where
the noise comes from (front or back in the door) but I cant see anything so
I have to use my ears for what they are worth! I also think that the window
is in the right (back) track all the time. It seems like the only problem is
that the left front tracks are simply not connecting as they should...
3)I would say the distance between them not making contact is 1-2cm. Not a
very big distance in other words... I gently tried to move/force the tracks
but to no success...
So, what can I do about it?
I would *guess* that you cannot adjust any of the tracks on the electric
window. So my guess is that I must be able somehow to adjust the left
(front) track inside the door.
How the "¤#)&¤0 do you adjust this bracket?
Does the electric window have to get out?
The permantent window? (Hope not).
I can't really see anything inside this door!
Theres so little room to work in, so hard to see...
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
In other words HELP HELP HELP!!! (Starting to sound like Beatles now!)
VIN #06759
(still going strong, yet with one window not functioning correctly)
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 15:48:50 EDT
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Return of the celebrity owners...
While attending a local car show, I learned that Tom Smith, owner and CEO of
Food Lion Stores is the owner of a DeLorean. He has a collection of around
50 collectible autos, about half of them Corvettes. I have seen these type
postings on the list before and just figured someone is interested in keeping
tabs on this sort of thing.
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 15:45:18 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Power Lock Harness
Does anybody have a diagram for the electrical harness for the door
locks? My control unit will lock both doors, but will not unlock
either. I know this is most likely the control unit itself, but I would
like to test the solenoids without taking the doors apart, so I need to
know which wires to jump on the connector from the control unit.
Thanks.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 14:57:06 -0700
From: "wayne selden" <w.selden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Dentless at last.
I am interested to know more about the dent repair. Is is one of those body
repair shops that uses steel rods to reshape the dent to it' sorginal shape
with metal memory. I had an excellent ezxperience with my painted car (no
paint job necessary). However, they said that theyf coulnt not do my
Delorean. What city do you live in?
Wayne Selden
w.selden@xxxxxxx
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:21:40 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Needle still straight up!
For all who read my last post.
I have had my dad move the wires to the sender and multiplug with me
sitting inside and no different on the gauge.
So I was wondering as my fuel gauge does start working again then not
i.e if you go over a bump in the road,perhaps it's a bad earth?
Does anyone know which wire of the 3 is the earth and where does it
end up?
If it leads to a bolt on the frame I could clean It up.
Many Thanks.
Paul.Vin 741.
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 15:24:27 -0700
From: "Archie G Hill" <ahelio1@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: trip
hello all just got back from a 6ooomi. trip the high lite was seeing the
gold delorean in the bank at snyder texas. went thru austin did not see
you gus. forgot to take your name with me so I could not look up your
number and call you. mabe next time.
Archie hill
vin05395
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