[DMCForum] Re: Misunderstood vacuum leak diagnosis

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I was referring to the 302. :)

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
wrote:
> You misunderstood -- am not suggesting capping line off permanently
> (you do want vacuum assisted brakes, don't you?). Just to trouble
> shoot. Besides, what would be purpose of diagnosing mode switch if 
you
> were just going to disconnect from car (not recommended. Heat from
> panel vents would be very uncomfortable).
> 
> >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Sorry, as a closet historian, I'm keeping things mostly stock. 
I'm 
> > not opposed to some 'Zillas though. :)
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > Easiest check would be to simply cap off nipple on passenger 
intake
> > > rail (3/8"). Remember this nipple also powers brake booster 
before
> > > driving car. Of course if engine is sucking air elsewhere this 
test
> > > may not tell much.
> > > 
> > > Also don't forget there's a hard plastic vacuum line from mode 
> > switch
> > > back to heater core shut off valve that could crack and leak.
> > > 
> > > Engine will idle just fine with no external vacuum devices. You 
> > could
> > > simply cap all nipples, then concentrate finding leaks on block
> > > itself. After engine is tight diagnosing things like mode 
switch 
> > will
> > > be easier.
> > > 
> > > How's a 302 looking right about now?
> > > 
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939
> > > 
> > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> 
wrote:
> > > > I finally took my wheels to a tire shop and had them mount my 
new
> > > > tires. (BFG Radial T/A's.) White letters out. The car looks 
nicer 
> > now.
> > > > The old rubber wasn't fit for the test drives around my 
parking 
> > lot.
> > > > 
> > > > That one wheel that I finally freed the lug nut on really did 
> > stick to
> > > > the hub. A squirt of "Deep Creep" and a few taps of a hammer 
> > broke it
> > > > free. The tire shop had a helluva time getting my rotted 
valve 
> > stems
> > > out.
> > > > 
> > > > The good news is, the wheel that I freed is the one at the 
angle 
> > drive
> > > > so I intend to check that out tomorrow. I still have one 
final 
> > wheel
> > > > to break free. Ugh.
> > > > 
> > > > Back on the subject of my vacuum leaks, how does one check 
for 
> > them at
> > > > the A/C mode switch? By ear, or do you squirt stuff in there 
or 
> > what?
> > > > 
> > > > The rough idle and sneezing is bugging the crap out of me.
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" 
<brobertson@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > > > Would be surprised if angle drive makes enough noise to be 
heard
> > > > > inside passenger compartment. More likely culprit would be 
> > brake pads
> > > > > missing anti-rattle clips. Wheel bearings themselves could 
also 
> > have
> > > > > problems.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Angle drive is nothing more than right angle gears (ring & 
> > worm, not
> > > > > 45 degree style, but principle is same). Spin either 
direction.
> > > > > Speedometer itself prevents movement in reverse.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Everyone in another Group thinks I'm crazy, but my spindle 
> > cable was
> > > > > wound counter clockwise. Forward motion ultimately killed 
it 
> > (actually
> > > > > was one other post that agreed with me). Wouldn't hurt any 
> > owner to
> > > > > pop wheel disc off and see how cable is wound. If it's 
> > backwards, be
> > > > > prepared for same.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Bill Robertson
> > > > > #5939
> > > > > 
> > > > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "erikgeerdink" 
> > <erikgeerdink@xxxx>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > I noticed yesterday while pulling out of the garage that 
> > there is a 
> > > > > > clicking noise coming from the front drivers wheel area.  
I 
> > don't 
> > > > > > hear it going forward at all at any speed.  Seems like it 
> > > > > > corresponse to wheel rotation.  Any ideas?
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Erik



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