Re: [doc] finally driven her!!
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Re: [doc] finally driven her!!
- From: John Tien <johntien99@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 17:50:26 +0100 (BST)
Is taking everything to bits the only way of knowing
how bad the valley of death is? I am taking my D to
the garage tmr for changing to Euro Springs... Is it
worth asking them to take those things out for me to
check for coolent leaks?
If so, how hard is the job? (Man hours?)
Cheers,
John Tien
DOC 8
RHD 3046
P.S. Is declaring SORN compulsory if my car is off
road in UK?
--- Nick Tomlinson
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I have done this job too when my water pump started
> leaking. I got a new one from ebay for £10 including
> delivery ! Bargain.
>
> I painted the valley of death with engine black
> paint just in case there is another leak.
> I replaced the water pump and replaced the steel
> pipe with a stainless one (mounted against the
> aluminium with fibre fashers, paint and copper
> grease).
> I was very lucky and had no issues with nuts/ bolts
> stripping.
>
> I have some v thick v heat resistant pipe for the
> back of the water pump if you need some.
> I had to buy a metre of the stuff. V stiff to go on
> but it will never come off.
>
> I also re-tapped all holes and re-died all bolts
> before re-fitting. Apaprt fron the 3 water pump
> bolts i replaced with new.
>
> Glad that job is now done.
>
> NickT.
>
> Mike Bosworth <mike.bosworth@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi
>
> Yes going into the 'valley of death' was a little
> daunting first time
> for me too and whilst i know i have said this before
> ,with the help
> of this sites 'How To's' with plenty of refernce
> pics, its not now a
> task i would now 'dread' doing . My leak was pretty
> much in the same
> place as his on here and whilst the metal pipe
> looked OK the worm
> clip wasnt really doing its job after 24 years .
> Whilst the coolant
> will take some time to do any real damage,
> personally i wouldnt like
> to leave it too long before sorting it. There are a
> lot of holes to
> fill up in the top of there especially the two 4 -
> 5" deep wells in
> the middle.
>
> Definatley get all new replacement rings and if you
> choose, all new
> bolts before you start stripping it all down. I used
> all new 'y pipe'
> bolts, pump bolts and manifold bolts for my own
> piece of mind and
> because there is nothing worse than starting a job
> and waiting for
> bits you thought that you wouldnt need, to arrive.
>
> A handy friend to help out whilst doing this
> particular job is always
> a plus :)
>
> If you need any 'Y pipe' to engine block o rings (
> 2no ) i still
> have a dozen or so left.
>
>
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/whatlurksbeneath.html
>
>
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/gallery/enginemiddle/index.html
>
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Mike B
> #2001 /403
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" wrote:
> > If you have a leak from the rear of the pump, then
> yes it probably
> is a
> > perished hose.
> >
> > The t-panel has a layer of hard foam glued to the
> stainless, and
> also
> > glued to the roof. Heating up the stainless won't
> help. You need to
> > prise up the t-panel with the foam still attached
> to it. It can be
> done
> > with firm but gentle coaxing.
> >
> > Rich H
> > DOC 36 VIN 1274
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf
> > Of
> > > blackaddertoo
> > > Sent: 01 August 2005 01:18
> > > To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Subject: Re: [doc] finally driven her!!
> > >
> > > Hi thanks for the advice
> > >
> > > i'll start perhaps with the 02 sensor as its an
> easy one to do.
> > >
> > > i'm not looking forward to the plugs etc, looks
> a long job! and
> > > expensive as while you are there you might as
> well replace leads,
> > > cap, rotor, water pump pipes etc.
> > >
> > > by the way i have a small leak coming from
> behind the water pump,
> i
> > > assume its the weak hose to the pump needs
> sorting, i understand a
> > > common problem.
> > >
> > > the T panel just won't budge, seems the the foam
> under is sticking
> > > to the panel, may try a hairdryer to heat the
> panel carefully.
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tny1964@xxxx
> wrote:
> > > > mine was the same, after i replaced the
> injectors! a new set i
> got
> > > with my
> > > > car. turns out the previous owner had sodded
> about with the
> > > adjusting screws on
> > > > the throttle assy,and the throttle wasn't
> shutting properly
> > > after i
> > > > sorted that it seems ok. but that was after
> replacing the cpr.
> you
> > > just have to
> > > > check for air leaks just try to eliminate
> everything cheers
> tony
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > DOC UK Website: www.deloreans.co.uk
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
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> >
> >
> >
>
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