All. Just when I thought I had progressed to being able to concentrate on cosmetic type problems? Accelerator cable snapped. Mine broke at the pedal end, and despite the best efforts of Dave Howarth's calming phone voice and advice I couldn't do anything but have the car towed home. As a quick aside here it is worth noting that putting a lowered D onto a car transporter is not as easy it would be for `stock' cars. The vehicle had a large ramp with winch, but if my car had been winched from the side of the motorway the metal cable would have damaged the front spoiler. Fortunately I could still move the car at idle to get part way up the ramp, from there the winch could be used. The cable was replaced with the new stainless steel version, supplied in by Dave. My electrical problems are back. Once again the dashboard gauges move with different electrical loads, and only a limited number of systems seem to want to work simultaneously. New twists on my problem include that now the LHS door lights do not work when the door is opened. They do however work as soon as the ignition key is inserted. At the same time the indicators do not work when other electrical loads are applied (lights for example). Since these symptoms start before the ignition key is turned the alternator is in the clear ? All of the my previous `usual suspects' have been checked; main relays are brand new all the fuses are new (contacts are clean as far as I can tell) the flasher unit panel is still in place ;-) grounding the wires next to the left wheel to the battery makes no difference I am therefore assuming there must be a broken/loose wire somewhere behind the binnacle. I managed to avoid removing it before. The DMCNEWS article says that I should just be able to remove 6 nuts, does anyone have practical experience of this they want to share, or better yet pictures? If there were anything more accessible to check first that would be good too! John Chapelhow