All. Long update after speaking to various members of the team at Gaydon. 'Boeing' made it home OK, unfortunately as before I could only choose 1 electrical system at a time, lights/fans/windscreen wipers all had to be truned off for the indicators to work. Any electrical gizmo controlled form the front of the car (headlights/hazard lights/stalk functions/haeater etc fuction caused the temp gauge to fly up, the oil pressure gauge to drop to zero and the battery and fuel gauge to oscillate wildly. The electric windows behave fine. I now own a non- contact thermometer so that I can check that the temperature of the engine is NOT that hot, but it is alarming to see the gauges. I have now replaced my battery with a 100amp-hour 600CCA maintainance free from Partco ~£52. My car did not come with the original side attachments, it came with a modern square top job. Apparently Dave Howarth can still get the original style for those of you who have the connectors... I have instead bought a 'standard' post type and have visited Maplin electronics to get solid brass (gold plated) convertors so that I now definately have good contact with my cut-off switch connectors, plus it looks cool. (£2.99 each post). I purchased replacements for the main/accessory relays. Hella 70amp @ 12v/80oC £18.45 each from Andrew Page Ltd (4RA003437047). Then I set to work with my new Automotive Electronic tester (current, voltage, resistance, rpm ,dwell etc £19.99 from Maplin). Here I found that the metal panel around the lock modules was at 12V, er that's not right then? Several cups of coffee later I traced the fault to the thermal trip circuit breakers which I replaced (wiring very untidy at the moment). The central locking is now working again fully, obviously the lockzilla was compensating for a more severe problem than I had realised! All that done, I then retested voltage at the battery=alternator, voltage increases as per the manual when engine is running. With the above updates I could then run two things simultaneously, aha progress! The only minor quirk was that now my buzzer didn't sound for the door open and the seatbelt warning light had stopped. Much of the wiring loom on my car seems to have been amended, the buzzer box was not where it appears on the diagram. After some searching I found it BALANCED on the top of the heating duct next to the steering wheel. I was trying to jiggle wires to see if I could get it working when it fell from there, causing a shower of blue sparks as it hit against various metal components. Considering I was wedged upside down below it reaching for the wires this came as a bit of a surprise... I disconnected all of the wiring connectors and untangled the wires which seem to have been trimmed. This resulted in much swearing and the door sensor being damaged. The black metal piece which holds the buzzer/logic box/indicator relay is now dangling next to the clutch pedal, does anyone have a picture of where this should go? The are no holes cut into it and no obvious mount points on the bulkhead. Too dark now to continue tonight.... John Chapelhow DOC 19 : 'Boeing' 0737