RE: [doc] Air conditioning......re-gassing query...(must get done before summer!!!!!)

["Kevins Work" <kevin.milliken@xxxx>]

Hi Martin

Took the De to check out the injction etc,.vacuum leaks abound, so it is
booked for acheck up,

However I met a retired guy there who does air con and has worked on De's
years ago. Iam going to have it regassed in a couple of weeks.



Regards


Kevin #5959
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster@xxxx]
Sent: 24 April 2003 19:20 PM
To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [doc] Air conditioning......re-gassing query...(must get done
before summer!!!!!)


Hi Nick

the dead giveaway for a system low on gas is the compressor will cycle
frequently (2 or more times in 10 seconds at 3000rpm). If REALLY low on
gas, the compressor will not fire up at all. The cooling fans are wired
up to come on when the compressor cycles - this all contributes to the
"kick" from the engine when it engages. The FanZilla is an elegant
solution, but expensive. I have my fans wired up to engage continuously
with AC and each fan is run from a seperate relay.

The seals and internal components are lubricated by the refrigerant, so
a system that is left to stand is more likely to leak (esp after 20
years) than a recently re-gassed and used system. I suggest a re-gas and
see how long it lasts, then you can start looking at a UV dye test.

DO NOT consider converting to 134a - our colleagues across the pond
consider it because the "drop-in" ozone-friendly R12 replacements are
illegal over there (but using original stocks of R12 isn't bizzarrely).
R134a runs at higher pressures and is not as reliable as R12 in our old
systems. The guy I found used R413 but apparently there are several R12
drop-in replacements available. I used www.newcenturycooling.co.uk and
the owner, Greg, has a rare TVR in his garage, so is happy to play with
the DeLorean - however he does not have the facilities to do leak tests.
He charged me £40 to vac and re-gas Lex. I have been given the name of a
place in Kent that specialises in classic car AC but haven't used them
yet.

The 1234 fan switch in the dash is independant of the mode switch,
however the compressor will cycle depending on the temperature of the
evaporator, so if the fans are off, the evap will stay cooler much
longer and it will not cycle as much. The "MAX" setting on the AC simply
recycles the air in the cabin instead of pulling in air from outside.

Hope this helps

Martin

Nick Tomlinson wrote:

>To All, my air-con feels a bit warm at the moment so I am assuming the
gas maybe a bit low. I have done the basics and checked that the belt is
tight (was loose) and that there is 12v on the clutch line when the air-con
is selected at the console. The clutch does engage. I haven't had chance yet
to give the car a blast in case the refrigerant just needs a good spurt.
>Has anyone had any problems getting R12 systems regassed? How much does
it usually cost?
> Has anyone had the refrigerant changed to R134a and what o-rings/ pipes
had to be changed etc with what benefits cost etc...
>Can someone verify if the fan switch is manually off and the air-con on,
does the fan automatically cycle to blast cold air into the cabin or does
the air-com stay off cycling with the pressure switch. I have the workshop
manual but the working isn't that clear to me (not an electrical diagram you
see !)
>Thanks all in advance,
>Nick. PMT250X.
>ps My nokia now has a nice Delorean screen saver on my 3310 thanks to
Liam.
>
>
>
>



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