SOLVED !!!!!!!!! Re: [doc] Please help with engine Idle speed when warm ok, when cold hunts and stalls.

["kevin_sar <k@xxxx>" <k@xxxx>]

Hi Nick 

If you could let me have the data I would be quite interested.

As a thought for electronic problems, as De's are left for quite some 
time on occasions. The batteries do tend to flatten and and frequency 
of "Jump" starts may be more frequent in comparison with other cars 
including classics which may not have electronics.  

If DOC owners lay up the cars over the winter period do these 
problems occur after they take them out. I could be that a battery 
charger connected on minimum charge without the ignition turned may 
stop these types of problems. As jumping the car with another battery 
is pretty harsh on old electronics.    





--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> To Paul, 
> I believe so (Volvo 265 and 765 with same engine I think) but I 
don't have the cross reference of the Bosch part numbers. There was a 
parts cross reference to idle speed ECU and Lambde ECU in a previous 
Delorean mag. It's the BOSCH Part numbers that are applicable. 
> If the ones you buy are good units I wouldn't want to strip them 
down (, if it isn't broken don't fix it,) but if you know of old 
unservisable units I could have a look and attempt to repair these. 
> If anyone has an old u/s unit I'd have a look at it, even if it was 
to be used as a known good spare for testing. 
> I could post the cross-reference later tonight/ tomorrow or looks 
through previous delorean mags. 
> I've also bought a few parts from GSF and if they fit then I would 
post the cross reference on here, they deliver. 
> Just want to help other members save some cash if I can. 
> BTW, if anyone has a spare screw to hold the front screen wash 
bottle in place, the supporting bracket and the screw cap I'd 
appreciate them....... 
> Nick. 
> 
> Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:I may be able to help 
here.
> 
> Are these the same Idle control units and Lambda as
> the Volvo uses. If so which one as I have a Volvo
> specific Breaker about 3 miles from my house, and I'll
> see if I can get one of each.
> 
> Paul
> 
> --- Nick Tomlinson
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: > 
> > To Kevin, 
> > I haven't as yet but I will this weekend as I
> > haven't reglued the box back together yet. I will
> > post them on here. I didn't have time to re-do a
> > wiring diagram, i fixed it using my repair head not
> > my electronics one. I'd be happy to repair anyones
> > ecu unit if they post it to me. I did buy enough
> > chips for 2 units, but I warn that the case will
> > have to be cut from underneath. I did mine in anger
> > as i knew it was faulty and was going to buy a new
> > one. I did solder in sockets so if I did this for
> > anyone and it failed again then all I would have to
> > do was send them new chips. If you have one then I'd
> > do yours for you, if many people want them doing
> > then I'd buy the chips in bulk (cheap enough anyway)
> > and fix them for them. At least I now have a car to
> > test them !!! If you are interested in the makup of
> > the ecu let me know and I'll post the datasheets on
> > here. A spare is a great idea.
> > If anyone has a 'spare' lambda ecu that doesn't mind
> > it being taken apart/ broken I could inspect this
> > and see how easy it is to repair these.
> > Most electronics of this era use standardised chips
> > so I hope this is the same.
> > Regards,
> > Nick.
> > "kevin_sar <k@xxxx>" <k@xxxx>
> > wrote:Hi Nick
> > 
> > When you took the ECU apart did you take any
> > pictures of the PCB from 
> > the top or the bottom. If any one has an old one it
> > may be worth 
> > reconing it so other members can try one that
> > actually works. It 
> > could then save a lot of problems. 
> > 
> > Did you manage to work out the circuit diagram.
> > 
> > Thanks for letting everyone know how you fixed it 
> > 
> > Kevin
> > 
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
> > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> > > 
> > > I've sorted my idle speed problem out !!!!!!!!!!
> > Bad news and good 
> > news. Bad news was that it required a new idle speed
> > ecu. Are these a 
> > common failure? Seeing as though I needed a new one
> > I decided to take 
> > the old one out and have a look inside (I did
> > electronic engineering 
> > for my degree and I don't get out much ! ) The case
> > is definately NOT 
> > designed to come apart easy so I had to cut it open.
> > I did this 
> > underneath so if glued back together it would appear
> > original when 
> > screwed back in place behind the drivers seat. I
> > looked at the 
> > components inside and couldn't believe how basic it
> > is, well, 
> > compared to new ones anyway. Good news, after some
> > quick checks on 
> > the transistors and looking for dry joints on the
> > circuit board I 
> > decided to see if you could still get the IC's
> > (chips). I recognised 
> > 3 out of the 5 straightaway (I said I don't get out
> > much) and with 
> > some quick cross matching with the others I made a
> > list. I also 
> > decided to get plug in sockets for the chips so I
> > could change them 
> > quick in the future (no jokes here please about
> > being made in Japan 
> > or substituting them for 1950's valves). Guess how
> > much? Approx £3.50 
> > for the lot from Farnells. The question is, did it
> > work? Answer YES 
> > IT DOES. I am now a happy bunny with a lovely
> > running engine, well, 
> > apart from the rich mixture at startup. I think I'll
> > strip down the 
> > warm-up regulator at the weekend for a look. I
> > managed to borrow a 
> > digital pressure indicator from work so I will test
> > all my fuelly 
> > bits this weekend (assuming I don't get called out)
> > Wish me luck! 
> > btw, I bought enough chips to do 2 ecu's. If anyone
> > wants me to have 
> > a go at repairing thiers then let me know. If this
> > is a common 
> > failure then I may have some work on with the club !
> > If anyone wishes 
> > to do the same, i have supplied an excel spreadsheet
> > with the order 
> > codes and prices from Farnells. Please note that a
> > minimum order is 
> > probably required, I bought a new soldering iron at
> > the same time.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Nick.
> > > 
> > > "nickandkathryntomlinson
> > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx>" 
> > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: To All
> > Delorean Tech-heads.
> > > Please excuse me if you have heard of this problem
> > before but I am 
> > > fairly new to the world of Delorean ownership.
> > > 
> > > I have a problem with the idle speed on my car
> > (Automatic) when the 
> > > engine is cold. It also appears to run rich
> > although this maybe 
> > > associated with this problem.
> > > I have just tuned the engine and have performed
> > the following 
> > > changes/ tests.
> > > 
> > > Changed spark plugs (plug gaps set to 0.68-0.70mm)
> > > Checked throttle is fully closed (including
> > checking the throttle 
> > rod)
> > > Checked microswitch engages correctly and is
> > electrically OK.
> > > Checked Distributor timing and vacuum advance shut
> > off solenoid.
> > > Checked Fuel Canister purge valve/ isolated carbon
> > canister 
> > (removed 
> > > and plugged hoses)
> > > Changed Lambda/O2 sensor
> > > Checked Frequency valve `buzzez'
> > > Checked Supply voltage and earth return at Fuel
> > Control Pressure 
> > > Regulator.
> > > Checked for 35 ohm resistance for Fuel Control
> > Pressure Regulator 
> > > heater.
> > > Adjusted Fuel Distributor flap so frequency valve
> > duty cycle 
> > > oscillates between 32 and 45 on a dwell meter.
> > (Note I have re-
> > > plugged the adjustment hole when taken a reading).
> > > Check Idle Speed control valve for operation.
> > > Pins 1 and 2 approx 100 ohms
> > > Pins 2 and 3 approx 100 ohms
> > > Pins 1 and 3 approx 200 ohms
> > > With +12v on Pin 2, momentarily earthing Pins 1
> > and 3 in succession 
> > > successfully opens and closes the control valve.
> > > Checked continuity of cabling from the control
> > valve back to the 
> > > plugs on the idle speed ecu.
> > > Checked thermistor resistance at idle speed ecu.
> > Reads approx 1.8-2 
> > > Kohms with engine cold, approx 220-290 ohms engine
> > warm.
> > > 
> > > When the engine is warm the engine idles pretty
> > smooth, varies +/- 
> > 50 
> > > RPM at approx.780 RPM.
> > > The engine speed does drop when the air
> > conditioning/ heated rear 
> > > window and lights are put on.
> > > As a further test I have at the ecu end put a
> > manual variable 
> > > potentiometer (resistor) that can vary the
> > resistance between 0 and 
> > > 5k on the ecu to simulate the idle speed
> > thermistor. I used short 
> > > cables to connect the other connectors to the ecu
> > using standard 
> > > spade/ blade male female connectors.
> > > I presumed that changing this resistance would
> > make the engine idle 
> > > speed raise and lower as it would change the duty
> > cycle 
> > oscillations 
> > > on the idle speed valve but this has no effect.
> > > Am I right in thinking that my idle speed ecu is
> > at fault?
> > > I've check the other connectors i.e. supply
> > voltage, earth, idle 
> > > switch operation, connection back to coil,
> > continuity to idle speed 
> > > valve, protection diodes etc.
> > > 
> > > My other test tonight when the engine is cold
> > would be to use a 
> > > standard auxiliary air valve used on standard
> > volvos to simulate 
> > the 
> > 
> === message truncated === 
> 
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