I may be able to help here. Are these the same Idle control units and Lambda as the Volvo uses. If so which one as I have a Volvo specific Breaker about 3 miles from my house, and I'll see if I can get one of each. Paul --- Nick Tomlinson <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: > > To Kevin, > I haven't as yet but I will this weekend as I > haven't reglued the box back together yet. I will > post them on here. I didn't have time to re-do a > wiring diagram, i fixed it using my repair head not > my electronics one. I'd be happy to repair anyones > ecu unit if they post it to me. I did buy enough > chips for 2 units, but I warn that the case will > have to be cut from underneath. I did mine in anger > as i knew it was faulty and was going to buy a new > one. I did solder in sockets so if I did this for > anyone and it failed again then all I would have to > do was send them new chips. If you have one then I'd > do yours for you, if many people want them doing > then I'd buy the chips in bulk (cheap enough anyway) > and fix them for them. At least I now have a car to > test them !!! If you are interested in the makup of > the ecu let me know and I'll post the datasheets on > here. A spare is a great idea. > If anyone has a 'spare' lambda ecu that doesn't mind > it being taken apart/ broken I could inspect this > and see how easy it is to repair these. > Most electronics of this era use standardised chips > so I hope this is the same. > Regards, > Nick. > "kevin_sar <k@xxxx>" <k@xxxx> > wrote:Hi Nick > > When you took the ECU apart did you take any > pictures of the PCB from > the top or the bottom. If any one has an old one it > may be worth > reconing it so other members can try one that > actually works. It > could then save a lot of problems. > > Did you manage to work out the circuit diagram. > > Thanks for letting everyone know how you fixed it > > Kevin > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: > > > > I've sorted my idle speed problem out !!!!!!!!!! > Bad news and good > news. Bad news was that it required a new idle speed > ecu. Are these a > common failure? Seeing as though I needed a new one > I decided to take > the old one out and have a look inside (I did > electronic engineering > for my degree and I don't get out much ! ) The case > is definately NOT > designed to come apart easy so I had to cut it open. > I did this > underneath so if glued back together it would appear > original when > screwed back in place behind the drivers seat. I > looked at the > components inside and couldn't believe how basic it > is, well, > compared to new ones anyway. Good news, after some > quick checks on > the transistors and looking for dry joints on the > circuit board I > decided to see if you could still get the IC's > (chips). I recognised > 3 out of the 5 straightaway (I said I don't get out > much) and with > some quick cross matching with the others I made a > list. I also > decided to get plug in sockets for the chips so I > could change them > quick in the future (no jokes here please about > being made in Japan > or substituting them for 1950's valves). Guess how > much? Approx £3.50 > for the lot from Farnells. The question is, did it > work? Answer YES > IT DOES. I am now a happy bunny with a lovely > running engine, well, > apart from the rich mixture at startup. I think I'll > strip down the > warm-up regulator at the weekend for a look. I > managed to borrow a > digital pressure indicator from work so I will test > all my fuelly > bits this weekend (assuming I don't get called out) > Wish me luck! > btw, I bought enough chips to do 2 ecu's. If anyone > wants me to have > a go at repairing thiers then let me know. If this > is a common > failure then I may have some work on with the club ! > If anyone wishes > to do the same, i have supplied an excel spreadsheet > with the order > codes and prices from Farnells. Please note that a > minimum order is > probably required, I bought a new soldering iron at > the same time. > > > > > > Nick. > > > > "nickandkathryntomlinson > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx>" > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: To All > Delorean Tech-heads. > > Please excuse me if you have heard of this problem > before but I am > > fairly new to the world of Delorean ownership. > > > > I have a problem with the idle speed on my car > (Automatic) when the > > engine is cold. It also appears to run rich > although this maybe > > associated with this problem. > > I have just tuned the engine and have performed > the following > > changes/ tests. > > > > Changed spark plugs (plug gaps set to 0.68-0.70mm) > > Checked throttle is fully closed (including > checking the throttle > rod) > > Checked microswitch engages correctly and is > electrically OK. > > Checked Distributor timing and vacuum advance shut > off solenoid. > > Checked Fuel Canister purge valve/ isolated carbon > canister > (removed > > and plugged hoses) > > Changed Lambda/O2 sensor > > Checked Frequency valve `buzzez' > > Checked Supply voltage and earth return at Fuel > Control Pressure > > Regulator. > > Checked for 35 ohm resistance for Fuel Control > Pressure Regulator > > heater. > > Adjusted Fuel Distributor flap so frequency valve > duty cycle > > oscillates between 32 and 45 on a dwell meter. > (Note I have re- > > plugged the adjustment hole when taken a reading). > > Check Idle Speed control valve for operation. > > Pins 1 and 2 approx 100 ohms > > Pins 2 and 3 approx 100 ohms > > Pins 1 and 3 approx 200 ohms > > With +12v on Pin 2, momentarily earthing Pins 1 > and 3 in succession > > successfully opens and closes the control valve. > > Checked continuity of cabling from the control > valve back to the > > plugs on the idle speed ecu. > > Checked thermistor resistance at idle speed ecu. > Reads approx 1.8-2 > > Kohms with engine cold, approx 220-290 ohms engine > warm. > > > > When the engine is warm the engine idles pretty > smooth, varies +/- > 50 > > RPM at approx.780 RPM. > > The engine speed does drop when the air > conditioning/ heated rear > > window and lights are put on. > > As a further test I have at the ecu end put a > manual variable > > potentiometer (resistor) that can vary the > resistance between 0 and > > 5k on the ecu to simulate the idle speed > thermistor. I used short > > cables to connect the other connectors to the ecu > using standard > > spade/ blade male female connectors. > > I presumed that changing this resistance would > make the engine idle > > speed raise and lower as it would change the duty > cycle > oscillations > > on the idle speed valve but this has no effect. > > Am I right in thinking that my idle speed ecu is > at fault? > > I've check the other connectors i.e. supply > voltage, earth, idle > > switch operation, connection back to coil, > continuity to idle speed > > valve, protection diodes etc. > > > > My other test tonight when the engine is cold > would be to use a > > standard auxiliary air valve used on standard > volvos to simulate > the > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Everything you'll ever need on one web page from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts http://uk.my.yahoo.com