Hi, thanks for the prompt reply,
Yes, the frequency valve still buzzes at 50% duty cycle (45 on 90 degree dwell meter) until the engine is warmer than 15 celcius and until a signal is received from the lambda sensor. I did adjust the air metering adjustment (hex screw) to get 30-45 degree dwell reading when the engine was warm (but not hot).
I forgot to mention that I tried the "WD40" trick by spraying it around the seals to see if the revs increased/ decreased and they didn't. Also, I tested the auxiliary air valve with the electrical connection off and applied the 12v to pin2 and 0volts to the outer pins in turn and the engine speed did rise to approx 1600-2000 rpm. If i remove the smaller (4pin) plug on the idle speed ecu then the idle speed raises to this speed.
I haven't checked the fuel pressure to the fuel distributor yet when hot or cold but I know that it should be approx 0.5bar cold and 3.5 bar hot. I think i'll invest in a fuel pressure tester from somewhere.
I have a copy of the Bosch CIS K-Lambda fuel injection config and test procedure but this doesn't include any fast idle, just a normal auxiliary air valve. I can supply a copy of this to anyone who wants one.
I think I'll take the plunge and get an ecu.
I'll let you know how i get on.
BTW, i got all my servicing items from GSF (German Swedish and French). If all the parts fit i'll send the info to Andy to add to the parts cross reference if not alredy included.
Thanks all for the quick response,
Nick.
"mgutkowski@xxxx" <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
Hi Nick
I don't have an answer, but I have forwarded it on to Darren who's
hopefully bored and can help you out! However, I have some comments:
>> Checked Frequency valve `buzzez'
The Frequency valve's duty cycle will not change when te engine is cold,
but should still buzz.
>> Checked Supply voltage and earth return at Fuel Control Pressure
Regulator.
I think I'm right in saying that the electrical supply to the CPR is merely
for the internal heating element, with it ot working, the fuelling will be
a bit rich for a short while during warm-up.
>> Adjusted Fuel Distributor flap so frequency valve duty cycle
oscillates between 32 and 45 on a dwell meter. (Note I have re-
plugged the adjustment hole when taken a reading).
This is something you must've done when it was/is warm.
>> When the engine is warm the engine idles pretty smooth, varies +/- 50
RPM at approx.780 RPM.
As we have recently established, the engine should not hunt at all, even
when cold. The reason for it is most likely tired intake manifold seals
creating vacuum leaks.
>> The engine speed does drop when the air conditioning/ heated rear
window and lights are put on.
This could be caused by the idlespeed valve being "maxed out" due to vacuum
leaks elsewhere in the system. Is this true for when it's hot?
>> Can anyone advice anything else I can try before I buy a replacement
idle speed ecu?
Borrow someone else's for 5 minutes and see if your car acts any
differently.
Warm up problems are very often caused by the control pressure regulator -
Claire and Dave have similar troubles with DGS. Sorry I can't be of more
specific help, but I should be getting a copy of the Swiss Renault manual
soon (the PRV with k-jet, idlespeed system and cat in europe)
>>Apparrently the same ECU could come from a Volvo 200 and 700 series with
the PRV engine.
Correct. My donor engine is from a 760
Martin
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