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My doors certainly became tighter to close since I put in the new seals.
At £12 per door though (to be more accurate, we bought enough for
both #1458 and #2727 for £46), I'm not going to lose any sleep!
BTW did you know there's a section of seal identical to that used on the door around the rear wheel arch? This maybe true of the front also, but I haven't had a fender off. #2727 was missing the seal on one side. With the old stuff out the doors, you only need about 2-3' Martin Walter Coe wrote: Graham, I bought new seals from PJ Grady but haven't had time to install them yet. Rob gave me a tip that I'll share with you, but I haven't been brave enough to try it myself yet. The reason why the seals don't last very long is because they get over-compressed. I got a good view of this while driving with the headliner off. What happens is the door catches the gasket and pulls it sharply down while pinching/tearing/crushing it. Rob Grady's directions were to remove approximately 1/4" of fiberglass from the lip that the gasket fits over. This gives the gasket more room to compress without crushing or tearing. I've studied the problem and so far agree that this is a good approach, but I'm not quite ready yet to go removing any fiberglass until I hear from some others who have tried it. Walt Tampa, Florida USA |
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