Twycross zoo? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx> To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 10:45 PM Subject: [doc] Fw: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem. > I agree with most of it...but where on earth does one get/ buy/ or collect > "gorilla snot"..it sounds jolly dangerous to me! > > Chris P....nackerd after a very busy NEC! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> > To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 8:03 PM > Subject: Re: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem. > > > > I have solved this problem before. The fix is to disassemble the switch > and > > add some non-hardening gorilla snot at the point where the long > > staple-looking wire pivots. > > > > My original switch didn't latch well, so I bought a NOS one from a vendor. > > This new switch didn't latch well either. I disassembled both switches > and > > saw nothing wrong with them -- no worn or bent or melted parts. It seemed > > that the switch was just a poor design. Out of frustration, I cut a hole > in > > the side of one so that I could actually see what was happening inside > while > > it was all together. To my amazement, I discovered the problem. The > design > > of the switch relies on friction at the pivot point where the long > > staple-looking wire mounts in the base. If there is not enough friction > at > > this point, then the other end of the 'staple' will not find its way > > properly though the labyrinth. > > > > When these switches are new, there is probably enough friction to allow > most > > of them to work. But the more they are used, the more the pivot point > > loosens up. Even the brand-new switch was too loose inside to work > > properly. The fix -- just put some kind of flexible adhesive in there at > > the pivot point. Perhaps a little 3M general trim adhesive, some rubber > > cement, or try what I used -- Permatex non-hardening Form-A-Gasket. My > > switch has latched perfectly ever since. > > > > Another tip is to install the switch so that the side with the white > key-way > > post is facing the passenger side of the car. In this orientation, if the > > pivot point loosens up too much then gravity will help the mechanism to at > > least get your running lights on. If it loosens up while put in the other > > way, then gravity may stop it from latching at all. > > > > Otherwise, I've heard stories from various people: Press it real hard and > > fast / press it on the upper right corner / jiggle it while you push it > in, > > etc. Basically any latching problem can be fixed by stiffing up the pivot > > point. > > > > Another problem I had with my switch is the socket on the back was too > > loose. I tried to tighten the connections, but couldn't get the thing > apart > > without destroying it. So I ended up replacing the socket with individual > > spade-lug terminals. I used electrician's numbered tape to label the > wires > > so that the next guy can figure out where they belong. > > > > Another head light switch tip (this one given to me by Rob Grady): When > > pressing the button, use two fingers on either side of the switch, and > keep > > your fingers away from the center. This will stop the headlight symbol > from > > wearing away. If it does wear off, then it really looks bad especially at > > night when you can see the backlight shining through. > > > > Walt Tampa, FL > > > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > > moderator@xxxx > > > > To search the archives or view files, log in at > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > > > DOC UK Website: www.delorean.co.uk > Unsubscribe: doc-uk-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxx > ** Unless otherwise stated, all messages posted to the group are assumed public and may be printed in the club magazine ** > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >