This is a job I've got to sort out on Dusty! Chris P ----- Original Message ----- From: "Travis Goodwin" <tgoodwin@xxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 2:05 PM Subject: [DML] Torsion bar adjustment > Yes, I did it, but I don't think I did it enough. Here's how I did it should > others be so brave: First I tested the door with a strut I knew that was > good (it was on the passenger side). Once I had access to the bracket, I put > a 2x6, a 2x4 and a standard size brick (for friction) across the back just > below the window. Using a ratchet, 6" extension bar, and a 3/8" hex socket I > attached it to the end of the torsion bar and placed the ratchet on the > brick so when the bolts were removed, the bar wouldn't pop. With struts off > and my my assistant holding the door open, I unbolted the bracket. There was > a bit of a twist once it came off, but nothing popped. The rough serface of > the brick kpt everything from shifting. I pulled the bracket towards me onto > the socket and turned it one notch (I had my original position marked with a > Sharpie). I put the bracket back and with a little struggling, I was able to > get the bracket lined back up and get the bolts back in. Voila! No broken > window! > > The door is certainly better than it was. Before I had to lift it myself. > Now, when I throw the handle, it risesalmost all the way but needs a little > help getting those last few inches. Would this be considered acceptable or > should I go one more notch? My only concern would be over-stressing the bar > and shortening its life span. > > PS. I'm going to investiage the fan problem tonite. Thanks for all the tips! > > > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@xxxx > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >