----- Original Message ----- From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:39 PM Subject: Re: [DML] Motor replacement instructions? > I bought a window motor from DMC Joe and no directions came with it. But I > had just got through spending the day with him learning first hand how to > install them, so maybe giving me an instruction sheet would have been > redundant. > > As for the Lockzilla, it comes with very easy to follow instructions. I > highly recommend using one, but I think the 'hand shaking' between the > Lockzilla and the Lockzilla remote control option could use some refinement. > I would prefer that it unlock just the driver's door with the first press on > the remote and then unlock both doors with the second press. The system has > a 'flaw' in it where if one of the door locks get out of sync with the other > (i.e. one locked, the other unlocked) then the remote quits working. The > instructions get real pointed about that it's your fault for having > bad/stiff lock solenoids rather than building the lock module around being > able to give a second jolt to a marginal solenoid to get it to move. > > I would prefer the system to work like it does on modern GM cars. The first > press of the button unlocks the driver's door. A second press unlocks the > rest of the doors, and (VERY IMPORTANT) subsequent presses gives all the > locks a second chance to move if they didn't the first time around. Are you > reading this Mr. Zilla engineer? :) > > As for replacing the window motor... It's a big job the first time you try > it. The major caveats I can mention: > > 1) don't damage the door panel taking it off. The door panel comes off in > two pieces. The top half comes off first, and you need a trim removing tool > to do it without damaging it. Get the right tool before you get into it. > > 2) The metal edges of the inner door are VERY sharp. I had cuts all over > the back of my hand before I realized it. Part of my life blood has become > part of that car in more ways than one. Before you even stick you hand in > the door, cover the edges with duct tape. Or better yet (as I did) get a > file and dremmel tool to smooth the sharp edges off. After all... these > cars (or at least parts of them) should be in use until the end of the > world. You might as well make it easier on the next generation to work on > it. > > 3) I absolutely could not get the window motor through that small hole in > one piece. I ended up taking the motor off of the gear/tube assembly to get > it in the door. Once in the door, I put it back together with a little red > organic Loc-tite (okay, it was blood. -- watch those sharp edges.) > > 4) To keep the door in a manageable position while you work inside of it, > use a length of light chain with hooks on the ends. Hook one end inside the > door and wrap the other end around the rear door post. If you do it right, > you can easily adjust the position of the door to make it easier to work on. > The door sill makes a good place to sit while you work. > > 5) This is a repeat of the last paragraph of my previous message, but I > cannot over emphasize the importance: When you install the heavy duty > motor, BE SURE TO REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG! That is why my motor went bad. > These Bosch motors come with little plastic drain plugs. You are supposed > to remove whichever plug ends up on the bottom of the assembly. Otherwise, > if water gets inside the motor, it won't come out. Keep the plug installed > on the top to help keep water out of the motor. > > Hope this helps, > Walt Tampa, FL > > > > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@xxxx >