Re: [doc] finally driven her!!

["Chris Williams" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Martin is probably the top guy for the tecnical question, although I 
understand it is more man hours than difficult. However I also 
understand (correct me if I am wrong) it is wise to replace a few 
parts whilst you are there, saves having to do it later!!

It is compulsory to declare SORN in the UK, and they are coming down 
hard. Issuing automatic fines. I know from bitter experience.....

Chris & Suzie
Vin#4584

--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Tien <johntien99@xxxx> wrote:
> Is taking everything to bits the only way of knowing
> how bad the valley of death is? I am taking my D to
> the garage tmr for changing to Euro Springs... Is it
> worth asking them to take those things out for me to
> check for coolent leaks?
> 
> If so, how hard is the job? (Man hours?)
> 
> Cheers,
> John Tien
> DOC 8
> RHD 3046
> 
> P.S. Is declaring SORN compulsory if my car is off
> road in UK?
> 
> 
> --- Nick Tomlinson
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> > I have done this job too when my water pump started
> > leaking. I got a new one from ebay for £10 including
> > delivery ! Bargain.
> >  
> > I painted the valley of death with engine black
> > paint just in case there is another leak.
> > I replaced the water pump and replaced the steel
> > pipe with a stainless one (mounted against the
> > aluminium with fibre fashers, paint and copper
> > grease).
> > I was very lucky and had no issues with nuts/ bolts
> > stripping.
> >  
> > I have some v thick v heat resistant pipe for the
> > back of the water pump if you need some.
> > I had to buy a metre of the stuff. V stiff to go on
> > but it will never come off.
> >  
> > I also re-tapped all holes and re-died all bolts
> > before re-fitting. Apaprt fron the 3 water pump
> > bolts i replaced with new.
> >  
> > Glad that job is now done.
> >  
> > NickT.
> > 
> > Mike Bosworth <mike.bosworth@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi
> > 
> > Yes going into the 'valley of death' was a little
> > daunting first time 
> > for me too and whilst i know i have said this before
> > ,with the help 
> > of this sites 'How To's' with plenty of refernce
> > pics, its not now a 
> > task i would now 'dread' doing . My leak was pretty
> > much in the same 
> > place as his on here and whilst the metal pipe
> > looked OK the worm 
> > clip wasnt really doing its job after 24 years .
> > Whilst the coolant 
> > will take some time to do any real damage,
> > personally i wouldnt like 
> > to leave it too long before sorting it. There are a
> > lot of holes to 
> > fill up in the top of there especially the two 4 -
> > 5" deep wells in 
> > the middle.
> > 
> > Definatley get all new replacement rings and if you
> > choose, all new 
> > bolts before you start stripping it all down. I used
> > all new 'y pipe' 
> > bolts, pump bolts and manifold bolts for my own
> > piece of mind and 
> > because there is nothing worse than starting a job
> > and waiting for 
> > bits you thought that you wouldnt need, to arrive. 
> > 
> > A handy friend to help out whilst doing this
> > particular job is always 
> > a plus :) 
> > 
> > If you need any 'Y pipe' to engine block o rings (
> > 2no ) i still 
> > have a dozen or so left.
> > 
> >
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/whatlurksbeneath.html
> > 
> >
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/gallery/enginemiddle/index.html
> > 
> > http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html
> > 
> > Kind Regards
> > 
> > Mike B
> > #2001 /403
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Richard" wrote:
> > > If you have a leak from the rear of the pump, then
> > yes it probably 
> > is a
> > > perished hose.
> > > 
> > > The t-panel has a layer of hard foam glued to the
> > stainless, and 
> > also
> > > glued to the roof. Heating up the stainless won't
> > help. You need to
> > > prise up the t-panel with the foam still attached
> > to it. It can be 
> > done
> > > with firm but gentle coaxing.
> > > 
> > > Rich H
> > > DOC 36 VIN 1274
> > > 
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
> > Behalf
> > > Of
> > > > blackaddertoo
> > > > Sent: 01 August 2005 01:18
> > > > To: doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > Subject: Re: [doc] finally driven her!!
> > > > 
> > > > Hi thanks for the advice
> > > > 
> > > > i'll start perhaps with the 02 sensor as its an
> > easy one to do.
> > > > 
> > > > i'm not looking forward to the plugs etc, looks
> > a long job! and
> > > > expensive as while you are there you might as
> > well replace leads,
> > > > cap, rotor, water pump pipes etc.
> > > > 
> > > > by the way i have a small leak coming from
> > behind the water pump, 
> > i
> > > > assume its the weak hose to the pump needs
> > sorting, i understand a
> > > > common problem.
> > > > 
> > > > the T panel just won't budge, seems the the foam
> > under is sticking
> > > > to the panel, may try a hairdryer to heat the
> > panel carefully.
> > > > 
> > > > regards
> > > > 
> > > > Steve
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tny1964@xxxx
> > wrote:
> > > > > mine was the same, after i replaced the
> > injectors! a new set i 
> > got
> > > > with my
> > > > > car. turns out the previous owner had sodded
> > about with the
> > > > adjusting screws on
> > > > > the throttle assy,and the throttle wasn't
> > shutting properly
> > > > after i
> > > > > sorted that it seems ok. but that was after
> > replacing the cpr. 
> > you
> > > > just have to
> > > > > check for air leaks just try to eliminate
> > everything cheers 
> > tony
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
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