Re: [doc] Slave clutch cylinder removal/installation

[Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Stian

It's really easy to do - just two 11mm bolts, and undo the line. (undo 
the line from the adapter, then the adapter from the cylinder - don't 
try undoing the adapter first or you'll twist the line off).

Yes you'll need to bleed it, but when you're in there it'll be really 
easy. Just undo the bleed screw, get a friend to push the pedal, do it 
up, get friend to release the pedal. Repeat till no air comes out. A 
little bit of air in the clutch hydraulics is far less important than 
the brakes.

A stiff clutch can be helped with new hydraulics, and a s/s line if you 
haven't already got one. We do new slaves and an excellent seal kit for 
the master for £15, rebuilt for £50 if you want to send it to us. We've 
sold over 20 of these kits so far and had no failures.

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/newparts1.html#mastercylrebuild

Now's a good time for cap and rotor too. And plugs. And leads!

Martin

Stian Birkeland wrote:

> I'm doing some maintenance work on the engine, having taken apart the
> top for restoration, and at the same time change a few bits and bobs
> while I'm in there, I now see that I have an excellent opportunity to
> install a new slave clutch cylinder (the old one is looking like
> crap) which is located at the back of the engine next to the
> electrical distributor.
>
> Do I have to do anything with the clutch fluid system when I'm simply
> replacing the unit with a new one? Do I have to bleed anything, if
> so, how do I go around to do it properly?
>
> And - could a bad slave clutch cylinder be the cause of my stiff
> clutch pedal syndrom?
>
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759




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