Re: [doc] Idle Speed ECU Reair

["jchapelhow" <chapelhow@xxxx>]

To Nick

Many thanks, I have received the repaired module today. Now that it's 
fitted the signs look good. I arrived home late so it is too dark for 
a run out (rear lights dim, possible bad earth I am told) but the 
cold idle speed oscillates at around 800rpm which is a vast 
improvement. 

Was the cheque enough?


John


--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> To John, I've fixed your ecu and I'll post it to you today. I tried 
it first and it started OK (1500rpm slowly dropping to 700rpm) then 
the idle speed jumped around a bit a few times randomly. To make sure 
it wasn't my engine being temperamental I plugged my ecu in and it 
was OK. I suspect it is the voltage comparator being dicky (LM2901N) 
but as I had to break into the box I replaced all of the chips anyway 
(but added sockets so you can change them if required using a 
screwdriver). Double check your idle speed control valve by removing 
it from the car. You should have 200 ohms between the centre pin and 
the outer pins. Briefly (less than a second) connect +12v to the 
centre pin and 0v to one of the outer pins. This should either 
completely open the valve or completely close it. Do you have a copy 
of the Delorean Workshop manual? Let me know how you get on.
> 
> Regards, Nick.
> 
> jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:Nick.
> 
> Thanks for letting me know, I had not expected such a fast 
turnaround 
> but if you do manage it this quickly so much the better!
> 
> John.
> 
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> > 
> > To John, just to let you know I have received your ECU and the 
new 
> chips from Farnell (I've bought enough to repair 4 ECU's). I'll try 
> and get it repaired tonight or tomorrow and send it to you for 
> saturdays post.
> > Nick.
> > jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:To Nick
> > 
> > I have sent you the ECU today, it is guaranteed to arrive on 
> Friday. 
> > I am happy with your terms, it will be worth it just to prove if 
> the 
> > ECU is at fault!
> > 
> > I will wait until the car is 'whole' again and then start on the 
> > battery probs.  
> > 
> > 
> > Many thanks
> > 
> > John Chapelhow
> > 
> > 
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson 
> > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> > > 
> > > To John, no problem. Check everything that I said in an earlier 
> > post eg checking cabling voltages resistance at the ECU plugs 
first 
> > as my repair will not result in a working car otherwise.
> > > Send the ECU to my works address (someone is always here to 
> collect 
> > post). I'll send you an e-mail once I have received the parcel:
> > > FAO Nick Tomlinson;
> > > Aston Dane Plc
> > > Park Mill Way
> > > Clayton West
> > > Huddersfield
> > > HD8 9XJ
> > > My no. is 07736610787.
> > > Cost of components is approx £5 and time to repair is about 2-3 
> > hours (inc testing). I'd test your ECU on my car first, if it 
works 
> > then there is something else wrong.
> > > Just send me a cheque for cost of parts plus return postage and 
> > send me 2 tins of the clubs Stainless steel cleaner (or its money 
> > equivalent). Its top stuff.
> > > If I am not going on site this week then you may get it back 
for 
> > the end of this week.
> > > Best way to test drain from battery is to disconnect the earth 
> > cable from the battery and connect an ammeter between the Earth 
> cable 
> > and the battery post and note the current drain. Disconnect each 
> fuse 
> > from the fusebox in turn to isolate which circuit causes the 
drain. 
> > If you find the drain then check the components on that circuit. 
If 
> > it turns out to be the charging circuit then disconnect the leads 
> > from the alternator as you may have a 'leaky' diode in the 
> rectifier 
> > that causes drain down. The safety lights on the doors may still 
be 
> > on when the doors are closed. You can disable these by 
> disconnecting 
> > them from the switches near the doors on the main car body just 
> > underneath the dash.
> > > Hope this helps.
> > > Nick.
> > > jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:Nick
> > > 
> > > My garage have tried most of the 'quick fixes' for my idle 
> > problems, 
> > > it looks like the ECU is to blame.
> > > 
> > > I would like to take you up on your offer of repair services, 
if 
> > you 
> > > could e-mail me off-list with your address and a price for the 
> > > component/delivery I will send you a cheque for the bits. If 
you 
> > > could also advise on your charge for the repair and timescales 
> that 
> > > would be great.
> > > 
> > > As an aside could it be that this circuit is also responsible 
for 
> > the 
> > > car's battery drain?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > John Chapelhow
> > > 
> > > DOC 19 : 'Boeing' #0737
> > > 
> > > 
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