To Paul,
Any chance you can give me the address of the breakers? I need a warm-up regulator for mine. The BOSCH number I have on my regulator is: 0438140066
Thanks in advance,
Nick.
Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:
I may be able to help here.
Are these the same Idle control units and Lambda as
the Volvo uses. If so which one as I have a Volvo
specific Breaker about 3 miles from my house, and I'll
see if I can get one of each.
Paul
--- Nick Tomlinson
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: >
> To Kevin,
> I haven't as yet but I will this weekend as I
> haven't reglued the box back together yet. I will
> post them on here. I didn't have time to re-do a
> wiring diagram, i fixed it using my repair head not
> my electronics one. I'd be happy to repair anyones
> ecu unit if they post it to me. I did buy enough
> chips for 2 units, but I warn that the case will
> have to be cut from underneath. I did mine in anger
> as i knew it was faulty and was going to buy a new
> one. I did solder in sockets so if I did this for
> anyone and it failed again then all I would have to
> do was send them new chips. If you have one then I'd
> do yours for you, if many people want them doing
> then I'd buy the chips in bulk (cheap enough anyway)
> and fix them for them. At least I now have a car to
> test them !!! If you are interested in the makup of
> the ecu let me know and I'll post the datasheets on
> here. A spare is a great idea.
> If anyone has a 'spare' lambda ecu that doesn't mind
> it being taken apart/ broken I could inspect this
> and see how easy it is to repair these.
> Most electronics of this era use standardised chips
> so I hope this is the same.
> Regards,
> Nick.
> "kevin_sar <k@xxxx>" <k@xxxx>
> wrote:Hi Nick
>
> When you took the ECU apart did you take any
> pictures of the PCB from
> the top or the bottom. If any one has an old one it
> may be worth
> reconing it so other members can try one that
> actually works. It
> could then save a lot of problems.
>
> Did you manage to work out the circuit diagram.
>
> Thanks for letting everyone know how you fixed it
>
> Kevin
>
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> > I've sorted my idle speed problem out !!!!!!!!!!
> Bad news and good
> news. Bad news was that it required a new idle speed
> ecu. Are these a
> common failure? Seeing as though I needed a new one
> I decided to take
> the old one out and have a look inside (I did
> electronic engineering
> for my degree and I don't get out much ! ) The case
> is definately NOT
> designed to come apart easy so I had to cut it open.
> I did this
> underneath so if glued back together it would appear
> original when
> screwed back in place behind the drivers seat. I
> looked at the
> components inside and couldn't believe how basic it
> is, well,
> compared to new ones anyway. Good news, after some
> quick checks on
> the transistors and looking for dry joints on the
> circuit board I
> decided to see if you could still get the IC's
> (chips). I recognised
> 3 out of the 5 straightaway (I said I don't get out
> much) and with
> some quick cross matching with the others I made a
> list. I also
> decided to get plug in sockets for the chips so I
> could change them
> quick in the future (no jokes here please about
> being made in Japan
> or substituting them for 1950's valves). Guess how
> much? Approx £3.50
> for the lot from Farnells. The question is, did it
> work? Answer YES
> IT DOES. I am now a happy bunny with a lovely
> running engine, well,
> apart from the rich mixture at startup. I think I'll
> strip down the
> warm-up regulator at the weekend for a look. I
> managed to borrow a
> digital pressure indicator from work so I will test
> all my fuelly
> bits this weekend (assuming I don't get called out)
> Wish me luck!
> btw, I bought enough chips to do 2 ecu's. If anyone
> wants me to have
> a go at repairing thiers then let me know. If this
> is a common
> failure then I may have some work on with the club !
> If anyone wishes
> to do the same, i have supplied an excel spreadsheet
> with the order
> codes and prices from Farnells. Please note that a
> minimum order is
> probably required, I bought a new soldering iron at
> the same time.
> >
> >
> > Nick.
> >
> > "nickandkathryntomlinson
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx>"
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote: To All
> Delorean Tech-heads.
> > Please excuse me if you have heard of this problem
> before but I am
> > fairly new to the world of Delorean ownership.
> >
> > I have a problem with the idle speed on my car
> (Automatic) when the
> > engine is cold. It also appears to run rich
> although this maybe
> > associated with this problem.
> > I have just tuned the engine and have performed
> the following
> > changes/ tests.
> >
> > Changed spark plugs (plug gaps set to 0.68-0.70mm)
> > Checked throttle is fully closed (including
> checking the throttle
> rod)
> > Checked microswitch engages correctly and is
> electrically OK.
> > Checked Distributor timing and vacuum advance shut
> off solenoid.
> > Checked Fuel Canister purge valve/ isolated carbon
> canister
> (removed
> > and plugged hoses)
> > Changed Lambda/O2 sensor
> > Checked Frequency valve `buzzez'
> > Checked Supply voltage and earth return at Fuel
> Control Pressure
> > Regulator.
> > Checked for 35 ohm resistance for Fuel Control
> Pressure Regulator
> > heater.
> > Adjusted Fuel Distributor flap so frequency valve
> duty cycle
> > oscillates between 32 and 45 on a dwell meter.
> (Note I have re-
> > plugged the adjustment hole when taken a reading).
> > Check Idle Speed control valve for operation.
> > Pins 1 and 2 approx 100 ohms
> > Pins 2 and 3 approx 100 ohms
> > Pins 1 and 3 approx 200 ohms
> > With +12v on Pin 2, momentarily earthing Pins 1
> and 3 in succession
> > successfully opens and closes the control valve.
> > Checked continuity of cabling from the control
> valve back to the
> > plugs on the idle speed ecu.
> > Checked thermistor resistance at idle speed ecu.
> Reads approx 1.8-2
> > Kohms with engine cold, approx 220-290 ohms engine
> warm.
> >
> > When the engine is warm the engine idles pretty
> smooth, varies +/-
> 50
> > RPM at approx.780 RPM.
> > The engine speed does drop when the air
> conditioning/ heated rear
> > window and lights are put on.
> > As a further test I have at the ecu end put a
> manual variable
> > potentiometer (resistor) that can vary the
> resistance between 0 and
> > 5k on the ecu to simulate the idle speed
> thermistor. I used short
> > cables to connect the other connectors to the ecu
> using standard
> > spade/ blade male female connectors.
> > I presumed that changing this resistance would
> make the engine idle
> > speed raise and lower as it would change the duty
> cycle
> oscillations
> > on the idle speed valve but this has no effect.
> > Am I right in thinking that my idle speed ecu is
> at fault?
> > I've check the other connectors i.e. supply
> voltage, earth, idle
> > switch operation, connection back to coil,
> continuity to idle speed
> > valve, protection diodes etc.
> >
> > My other test tonight when the engine is cold
> would be to use a
> > standard auxiliary air valve used on standard
> volvos to simulate
> the
>
=== message truncated ===
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