Re: [doc] Fw: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem.

["Matthew Wennington" <matthew@xxxx>]

Twycross zoo?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx>
To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 10:45 PM
Subject: [doc] Fw: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem.


> I agree with most of it...but where on earth does one get/ buy/ or collect
> "gorilla snot"..it sounds jolly dangerous to me!
>
> Chris P....nackerd after a very busy NEC!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem.
>
>
> > I have solved this problem before. The fix is to disassemble the switch
> and
> > add some non-hardening gorilla snot at the point where the long
> > staple-looking wire pivots.
> >
> > My original switch didn't latch well, so I bought a NOS one from a
vendor.
> > This new switch didn't latch well either. I disassembled both switches
> and
> > saw nothing wrong with them -- no worn or bent or melted parts. It
seemed
> > that the switch was just a poor design. Out of frustration, I cut a
hole
> in
> > the side of one so that I could actually see what was happening inside
> while
> > it was all together. To my amazement, I discovered the problem. The
> design
> > of the switch relies on friction at the pivot point where the long
> > staple-looking wire mounts in the base. If there is not enough friction
> at
> > this point, then the other end of the 'staple' will not find its way
> > properly though the labyrinth.
> >
> > When these switches are new, there is probably enough friction to allow
> most
> > of them to work. But the more they are used, the more the pivot point
> > loosens up. Even the brand-new switch was too loose inside to work
> > properly. The fix -- just put some kind of flexible adhesive in there
at
> > the pivot point. Perhaps a little 3M general trim adhesive, some rubber
> > cement, or try what I used -- Permatex non-hardening Form-A-Gasket. My
> > switch has latched perfectly ever since.
> >
> > Another tip is to install the switch so that the side with the white
> key-way
> > post is facing the passenger side of the car. In this orientation, if
the
> > pivot point loosens up too much then gravity will help the mechanism to
at
> > least get your running lights on. If it loosens up while put in the
other
> > way, then gravity may stop it from latching at all.
> >
> > Otherwise, I've heard stories from various people: Press it real hard
and
> > fast / press it on the upper right corner / jiggle it while you push it
> in,
> > etc. Basically any latching problem can be fixed by stiffing up the
pivot
> > point.
> >
> > Another problem I had with my switch is the socket on the back was too
> > loose. I tried to tighten the connections, but couldn't get the thing
> apart
> > without destroying it. So I ended up replacing the socket with
individual
> > spade-lug terminals. I used electrician's numbered tape to label the
> wires
> > so that the next guy can figure out where they belong.
> >
> > Another head light switch tip (this one given to me by Rob Grady): When
> > pressing the button, use two fingers on either side of the switch, and
> keep
> > your fingers away from the center. This will stop the headlight symbol
> from
> > wearing away. If it does wear off, then it really looks bad especially
at
> > night when you can see the backlight shining through.
> >
> > Walt Tampa, FL
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
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>
>
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