Fw: [DML] Motor replacement instructions?

["Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx>]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Motor replacement instructions?


> I bought a window motor from DMC Joe and no directions came with it. But
I
> had just got through spending the day with him learning first hand how to
> install them, so maybe giving me an instruction sheet would have been
> redundant.
>
> As for the Lockzilla, it comes with very easy to follow instructions. I
> highly recommend using one, but I think the 'hand shaking' between the
> Lockzilla and the Lockzilla remote control option could use some
refinement.
> I would prefer that it unlock just the driver's door with the first press
on
> the remote and then unlock both doors with the second press. The system
has
> a 'flaw' in it where if one of the door locks get out of sync with the
other
> (i.e. one locked, the other unlocked) then the remote quits working. The
> instructions get real pointed about that it's your fault for having
> bad/stiff lock solenoids rather than building the lock module around being
> able to give a second jolt to a marginal solenoid to get it to move.
>
> I would prefer the system to work like it does on modern GM cars. The
first
> press of the button unlocks the driver's door. A second press unlocks the
> rest of the doors, and (VERY IMPORTANT) subsequent presses gives all the
> locks a second chance to move if they didn't the first time around. Are
you
> reading this Mr. Zilla engineer? :)
>
> As for replacing the window motor... It's a big job the first time you try
> it. The major caveats I can mention:
>
> 1) don't damage the door panel taking it off. The door panel comes off in
> two pieces. The top half comes off first, and you need a trim removing
tool
> to do it without damaging it. Get the right tool before you get into it.
>
> 2) The metal edges of the inner door are VERY sharp. I had cuts all over
> the back of my hand before I realized it. Part of my life blood has
become
> part of that car in more ways than one. Before you even stick you hand in
> the door, cover the edges with duct tape. Or better yet (as I did) get a
> file and dremmel tool to smooth the sharp edges off. After all... these
> cars (or at least parts of them) should be in use until the end of the
> world. You might as well make it easier on the next generation to work on
> it.
>
> 3) I absolutely could not get the window motor through that small hole in
> one piece. I ended up taking the motor off of the gear/tube assembly to
get
> it in the door. Once in the door, I put it back together with a little
red
> organic Loc-tite (okay, it was blood. -- watch those sharp edges.)
>
> 4) To keep the door in a manageable position while you work inside of it,
> use a length of light chain with hooks on the ends. Hook one end inside
the
> door and wrap the other end around the rear door post. If you do it
right,
> you can easily adjust the position of the door to make it easier to work
on.
> The door sill makes a good place to sit while you work.
>
> 5) This is a repeat of the last paragraph of my previous message, but I
> cannot over emphasize the importance: When you install the heavy duty
> motor, BE SURE TO REMOVE THE DRAIN PLUG! That is why my motor went bad.
> These Bosch motors come with little plastic drain plugs. You are supposed
> to remove whichever plug ends up on the bottom of the assembly.
Otherwise,
> if water gets inside the motor, it won't come out. Keep the plug
installed
> on the top to help keep water out of the motor.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
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