Re: [DML] Driving DMC on salted roads

True enough..but left unwashed..it will be far far worse than water forced into the damaged epoxy areas.. at least it removes the chances of the corrosive mixture of salt/magnesium chloride mixing into the areas with the cracked epoxy/bare metal..salt/magnesium chloride CLINGS/coats ONTO every metal part of your car..and if left unwashed will only very very rapidly accelerate the corrosive actions of just water or moisture alone..in particular brake lines/metal gas lines..radiators..condensers..electrical components..etc..

My suggestion garage it and buy a cheap winter beater.

Claude
1024
bric

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Kemp <nkemp1165@...> wrote:
>
> Washing it under high or even low pressure will force water into the
> cracks of the epoxy coating. It will then start or continue the rust
> process even with out salt. Salt only makes it more effective. Water
> alone will result in frame rust if it can get to the metal.
>
> NK
>
>
> cbl302@... wrote , ----On 12/20/2013 10:03 AM
> ---------------------------:
> >
> > Lee..The ONLY way to drive in the salt belt states and protect your
> > Delorean is to Wash the undercarriage either through a car wash that
> > specializes in washing the whole car plus the undercarriage under high
> > pressure..and BTW you MUST do this after every drive through harsh
> > winter weather, when the roads are clear and dry..otherwise as soon as
> > you hit the streets you are respraying the corrosive salts all over
> > your undercarriage.
> >
> > Also beware the New stuff that is now used instead of salt/sand
> > mixture on the winter roads (the Liquid Spray magnesium chloride is
> > more corrosive to metal under wet conditions.)It will EASILY eat away
> > at your brake lines/gas lines..and we all know the end results if that
> > happens.
> >
> > Watch this video and then think twice about driving any good car in
> > the winter weather...
> >
> > http://www.wfsb.com/story/23874231/mechanics-blame-winter-road-treatment-for-damage-to-cars
> >
> > Here in Connecticut we buy cheap "winter beaters" and let those
> > vehicles take the punishment of the corrosive winters..
> >
> > Claude
> > 1024
> > Bric
> > and never seen winter weather(or rain)
> > and always garaged and covered
> > in 33yrs of ownership
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <katduck23@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Folks!
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm (very) new to the group, and doing my best to soak up as much
> > know-how as I can.
> > >
> > >
> > > Would a sacrificial anode help with this situation? I seem to
> > remember a car-maker using them in the past, but I can't recall which one.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Analytical_Chemistry/Electrochemistry/Case_Studies/Corrosion/Sacrificial_Anode
> > http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Analytical_Chemistry/Electrochemistry/Case_Studies/Corrosion/Sacrificial_Anode
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > If this works as I (in my non-technical level of comprehension)
> > understand, then the current is carried to the zinc anode, which
> > proceeds to do the rusting (oxidizing) before the iron would. I
> > suppose you would need to make sure that all the rust-able pieces have
> > connectivity. Does someone here have more info on this possibility?
> > >
> > >
> > > I would much rather clip one or two of these somewhere on the
> > undercarriage and replace them now and then.than confine my (someday)
> > DMC-12 to the New England driving season.
> > >
> > >
> > > Lee D>
> > >
> > >
> > > VIN #tbd
> > >
> >
> >
>