Re: [DML] Re: Doors..and doing it my way.....

[Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, David, for that info. I also try to avoid the bounce. I think the
amount of "hang" may have been inflated over the years as the info got
passed around. :)

Farrar Hudkins
#2613

On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 10:56 AM, jtrealtywebspannet <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I was the one who developed the "hang test". I used several cars and then
> consulted with Rob Grady before settling on the amount the door should hang
> open with no strut. This test is relative. It can also be affected by how
> strong the struts you use are. It is NOT temperature dependent. I wanted to
> have a definitive test anyone could do without tools to tell if they needed
> struts or a torsion bar adjustment. There is no way to know exactly how
> strong the original struts were when new so this hang test is designed to
> use struts currently available. One problem is that different venders
> source their struts differently and the strength can vary. If your doors
> barely hang open you need very strong struts to hold the door all the way
> open. Most venders do not sell struts that strong. I try to adjust the
> torsion bar so that at around 70 degrees F the doors will open just about
> all the way. You have to push them to full open and they will stay there
> and not droop. This puts the least amount of stress on the roof and avoids
> "bouncing" when opening. For those with door launchers it is not enough and
> they will always want the doors to bounce to full open.
> David Teitelbaum
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@...> wrote:
> >
> > All other stuff aside...
> >
> > On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 9:30 AM, cbl302@...
> > <cbl302@...>wrote:
> >
> > > **
>
> > > if you take the strut off you will notice that the door will swing down
> > > and almost go to the closed position.
> > >
> >
> > This is true, and it is how I determined that it was time to inspect my
> > roof cage and see if a torsion bar adjustment was necessary. My doors
> would
> > close all the way with no struts attached. Brand new struts would barely
> > hold the doors open in chilly weather (circa 60 degrees Fahrenheit). So I
> > removed the necessary bits and made sure the roof cage was OK, and then
> > gave the torsion bars one more notch each of tension. After this was done
> > and everything tightened down, the doors would just hold open a little
> bit
> > -- about an inch from closed on the driver's side and about half an inch
> > from closed on the passenger side. Some people would have torqued the
> bars
> > one more notch, but this was enough for me. I just decided to replace the
> > struts every autumn.
> >
> > For years I was told that the struts should hold the doors open six to
> > eight inches without a strut installed. In my opinion this is too much
> > tension -- my doors open just fine, and will stay open for hours while I
> > work on the car, even at forty degrees or so, without sagging, as long as
> > the struts are fresh (less than a year old).
> >
> > Sorry to make this point in such a roundabout way. The point, though, is
> > that it should be an inch or so from closing as Claude says, if you let
> the
> > door down gently (and why wouldn't you?), not "several inches" as was
> > floating around for some time (I forget who said it first).
> >
> > And a belated Happy St Patrick's Day to all who celebrated yesterday!
> >
> > Farrar Hudkins
> > #2613
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>  
>



-- 
Sent from my laser-guided nuclear-powered refrigerator, operated by its
crew of hyperintelligent pandimensional cyborg kittens, controlled remotely
via telekinetic sonic screwdriver.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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