Re: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs

[Allen Mayorga <allen.mayorga@xxxxxxxxx>]

I b ought the relay kit but lost the instructions - anybody know how the color wires connect to the switch?

 



________________________________
From: dadoc2791 <gekko@xxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 9:36:52 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs





Dave,

No question that the overall design is poor in regard to the amperage carried by the switch in the original schematic, but I have about 35k miles on my car and this is the first time (to my knowledge) it (the switch) has required repair, so I figure I've been pretty lucky with it. Either that or it hasn't been driven at night much. :o)

Craig
07181

--- In dmcnews@yahoogroups .com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@.. .> wrote:
>
> Doing this repair is a short-term solution. Too much current for the switch causes it to get hot. Consider adding relays like John H offers or you can do it yourself if you are handy.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@yahoogroups .com, "dadoc2791" <gekko@> wrote:
> >
> > Just a note for those who have had minor difficulties with their headlight switch.....
> > My switch began getting 'flakey' where, when I punched for headlights it would sometimes not fire them up; so I had to punch it off, double punch again and sometimes it took 3-4 cycles to get the headlights to stay on.
> > I remembered somebody talking on the list about repair/rebuild of switches that weren't entirely melted down and that it wasn't all that difficult to do, so I decided to attempt it.
> > I turned off all power (I have a battery cut-out switch) and pulled the switch (of course, have to pull the instrument control panel off first to make it accessible) and took the switch to the bench. It was easy enough to pop the innerds out of the housing using a small screwdriver and gently prying the sides out to release the retainer nubs. Inside I found the neoprene around the copper slides was just slightly melted around them so I used a utility knife to trim off the strips of melted plastic. Then I used my dremmel tool with a small stainless wire wheel to clean up the copper....ALL the copper, including the plug blades outside. I gave the spring contacts a slight tweak to keep them firmly hugging the contact strips when they are engaged, put a drop of white grease on the switch locator rod and re-assembled the whole thing. Total repair job took about 15 minutes. Reinstalled and it works perfectly. (Note: the switch mechanism only fits into the
 housing one way....be sure to notice that when disassembling! )
> > Obviously, this is not the course for a badly melted switch or one that has other organic problems but for a periodically tempramental switch, it is easier than I figured and could save some folks the $50+ for a new one, at least for a while.
> > 
> > Good luck and Drive Stainless!
> > 
> > Craig Werner
> > 07181
> >
>





      

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