O.K Great advice but before I tear apart my newly power coated top-half. I just went over a few things... I made sure all vacuum lines routed correctly, micro-switch is being tripped and working, the throttle linkage is not binding, vacuum solenoid is clicking when the switch is being tripped. Mixture is set to where it should be, I think? with the throttle screws set correctly. The three brass are all closed, and butterflies are closed. As for the vacuum leaks without pulling everything apart to see there is no way to tell HOWEVER it does appear tight because when I pull the CO plug the idle drops substantially, which I take to mean that is the big leak? and I was very, very careful and took my time putting it back together, I have done it, I can't tell how many times. Anyway heres what I found out: The car will star and idle around 950-1000 RPM the CO is set to 42.5, using the plug near the left firwall of the engine per the manual, about at idle cold, no problem, sounds better than ever then after a few minutes the CO jumps to 85 and so does the RPM's. Of coarse I can back down the idle but CO stays at 85. Then the car will not start which makes sense, its to rich. But Why is it fine and then jumps up? BTW if you let it sit it will start...It was fine for two days and then won't start.. Both hot and cold It's got to be something simple-all ground wires are connected and I did give it a tune up, even a new coil with ground wire.Still no acceleration on 1st and 2nd gear, it wants to stall. Freq. valve is working Everything was fine before I took it apart so I doubt it was a failure of some kind, but I can't rule anything out at this point I guess? Any Other advice before I have to take everything apart? Also how do you check that the lambda is working? Thanks in advance --- On Tue, 3/10/09, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: From: David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [DML] Re: IDLE ISSUES(FIXED)-No Acceleraration To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 12:06 AM Typically people tweak the mixture, usually richer, to compensate for the additional air from vacuum leaks. It seems to correct the problem but it leans out under acceleration. Another major cause for people to tweak the mixture screw richer is to get the motor to run when the Lambda system is not functioning. Normally the Lambda will add *just* enough fuel to make the mixture correct. When it doesn't work the motor will run lean and stumble badly when accelerated. Fix the vacuum leaks and make sure the Lambda is working. You might also have issues with the vacuum advance. That can also cause poor acceleration and horrible fuel economy. Since you said you took the top apart it could be a lot of things. Make sure you put the little ground wire by the front, right of the motor back on and recheck ALL of the ground wires on the front of the motor too. If you can, put the mixture screw back to it's origional position. Another major cause of poor cold performance is a bad Control Pressure Regulator. Best verified with a fuel pressure gauge or substitution of a known, good unit. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 [moderator snip] ------------------------------------ To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnewsYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/