[DML] CLUTCH BLEEDING

[mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>]

History-----Josh's car is running fairly good, so I tackled the clutch.  When first starting up, it shifts smoothly in all gears.  After about 5 minutes, it wants to grind going into reverse.  After it gets up to operating temperature, it wants to grind going into both reverse and 1st gear.  Yes, I know about the adjustable clutch fork and that next on my agenda.

I have rebuilt the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.  Both check 4.0 on the bench.  I decided to replace the original plastic line that runs through the frame.  I accomplished this and replaced it with metal line, so now it is all metal from the master to the slave.

Now here's what has me stuck.  I cannot get the system to bleed correctly either by pumping the pedal or by using a hand vacuum pump.  After two hours of pumping the pedal and vacuuming, all I got out was about a 1/4 cup of fluid.  Here's the odd part, with the bleed screw open, when the pedal is pushed, the clutch fork moves almost full throw and almost no fluid comes out.  I decided that maybe the bleed screw itself might be plugged, so I took it out and installed a good spare.  The original was clean and open.  I then went to reinstall the one I took out and by the time I had it reinstalled (maybe 3-4 minutes).  I noticed fluid dripping from under the engine.  It was brake fluid of course, so I checked the reservoir and I had lost 3/4 of the bottle out the bleed screw hole while I was doing my swap.  This was either caused by gravity or a siphon effect.

My question is----why is the system not bleeding when the bleed screw is turned a 1/4 turn, yet, when I take it all the way out, it wants to pee everywhere?

Mike   TPS   1630



      

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