[DML] Re: door lock module diode D4

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

What I recommend is that instead of a manual resettable circuit
breaker (which is expensive and not available everywhere) you put a
fast-acting fuse in. 10 amps should do it but on some cars you have to
go up to 15, especially if you like to click the locks a lot or have a
remote. Definately replace the relays but you MUST fuse the input if
you are going to use the origional lock module. If the lock module
doesn't work or seems like it works sometimes, then you must also
rewind the locking solenoids in the doors because they are probably
burnt. In that case you will blow the 15 amp fuse quickly. That is a
sure way to confirm the solenoids are "cooked".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis" <elvisnocita@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Steve,
> 
> when you look at the schematic you can see, that it is only
> for protection against negative voltage / spikes.
> 
> I have seen many that were burned. Two reasons for that:
> somebody was too stupid to install the battery correctly
> or
> it is a Zener-Diode and protects it against over voltage.
> Well - then it would protect the whole car against that,
> but the size of the diode doesn't allow it to be a real 
> safety device...
> 
> To make it short - even if you leave it out you won't
> s


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