[DML] Re: Bad Alternator?

["sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

That's what was puzzling me, too.  I can't quite recall, but I think 
the voltage showed about 8 or 9 with the ignition switch turned on 
AND when craking (would dip a little when cranking).  The cranking 
felt strong, but again, no ignition.  I also did not hear the usual 
2 to 3 second fuel pump running when I turned the key (it's supposed 
to turn on briefly, right?).  I did jumper the fuel pump for a few 
seconds (confirmed that it did turn on), then replaced the relay, 
and the car would ignite for a few seconds, then die.  Could I have 
damaged the relay, or perhaps the circuit does not have enough 
voltage to power the fuel pump?  This part confused me.  As Elvis 
states, why would the starter crank strongly, but not have enough 
voltage for the fuel pump or perhaps spark?  I am puzzled, but will 
install the new alternator when it arrives and go from there.

Paul

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis" <elvisnocita@...> wrote:
>
> 
> May I ask some questions ?
> 
> the Voltage Gauge shows 8V - with the starter engaged or
> just with the ignition on ?
> 
> The battery still makes it to power the starter which 
> sucks over 100Amps out of it, but the there is not enough power
> to drive the ignition and fuelpump ????
> 
> Sorry but this seems impossible to me !
> 
> I'd go and check the fuel system and of course ignition (coil ???)
> again !
> 
> If you need more power for the coil you can bridge the resistors
> at the firewall to test it, but again - as long as it can crank 
> the engine there is enough juice in the battery to keep it 
running !
> 
> Elvis & 6548...where even when the battry is too low to crank
> it still can be pushed on....
> 
> 
> 
> > It sounds like a low battery which would in-turn probably means 
a 
> bad 
> > alternator.
> > 
> > Sounds like you need to get it to your mechanic and let him 
check 
> it 
> > out. If an alternator is required order one of Hervey's 
alternators 
> > (I recommend the 140 amp) and let your mechanic install it, 
charge 
> > your battery, and get you back on the road. Don't keep trying to 
> > start it; you will burn up the starter. Low voltage is no friend 
of 
> > your electrical system. If you have to drive it to the shop, get 
> the 
> > battery charged first - it should start and run fine for about 
30 
> > minutes with a good fully charged battery.
> > 
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@> 
wrote:
> > >
> > > For the past several months, the bearings on my alternator 
would 
> > > squeal a bit when starting the engine.  (I have an 82 with 
30,000 
> > > miles on it). My mechanic confirmed that I'd need a new one 
> sooner 
> > > or later.  On Saturday, when I started the car for a ride, the 
> > > engines started right up,then all of a sudden, cut out.  I 
> started 
> > > it again, it ran for a few seconds, then just died again.  The 
> car 
> > > started the third time, allowing me to start down the street.  
> > After 
> > > a couple of miles, the engine just died again, where I had to 
> coast 
> > > to a stop on the side of the road.  The car would not start 
after 
> > > that.  It would crank and crank, but did not fire up.  The 
> > voltmeter 
> > > showed about 8 volts.  After getting it towed home, I jumpered 
> the 
> > > fuel pump to make sure it turned on.  It did.  I then tried to 
> > start 
> > > the car.  It kicked on for a second then died.  Battery still 
> seems 
> > > to crank strongly, but no ignition.  Voltage still shows about 
8 
> > > volts.  Is this symptoms of a bad alternator?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > 
> > > Paul
> > > vin10944
> > >
> >
>




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