[DML] Re: Heading into the valley of death

["therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxx>]

Replacing the water pump, and the seals below is a DeLorean right of
passage. Not so much because it's a difficult repair, but because it's
one of the most intimidating. Ance once you complete it, you you'll
know that you can pretty much do anything on your car. It's a real
confidence booster.

Chances are that if you're seeing water behing, it's either one of the
back two hoses behind the water pump, or one of the small O-rings that
seal the "Y" pipe to the engine block in the back.

Now as far as everything goes, yes, definetly follow everyone's advice
here. Replace as much as you can right now. However, if somethings are
working, and you'd like to get to them later, don't fret. Once you get
into the swing of things, and know what to do, you can always go back
to replace the rest of everything. My record is 4 hours to replace my
pump in the dark, under a streetlight in my old apartment complex (new
water pump, but the pulley wobbled off!). But of course, if you have
the manifold off, it makes servicing clyinders 4,5, & 6 a whole lot
easier. And don't forget those vacuum hoses.

Anywho, here's my tips that helped make short work out of things for
me, and made it much less stressing.

1. Buy a couple boxes of Ziplock baggies, and a Permanent marker!
Taking photos is a great help, but as you work in stages dismantling
the intake and hoses, use baggies to help keep your nuts, bolts, and
other pieces together. And keep them labeled acccordingly, if not
numbered as well to remind you of the sequence you'll need them all.
Ie. keep your first small baggie for the air box bolts, and label and
number the bag as the 1. Keep another for the bolts and hardware for
the throttle assembly, next for the Idle Speed motor and tubes, and so on.

2. INSTALL NEW CRUSH SEALS ON THE BANJO FITTINGS FOR THE FUEL
INJECTION HOSES TO PREVENT A FIRE!
The seals are only meant to be used once after that, they're no longer
any good. So, you'll need to install fresh ones. A Master Kit to
replace the water pump should have these seals included of course. But
hey, let's say you knock some over, or otherwise lose some of the
seals, DO NOT give into temptation and reuse any of the old ones.

3. Buy a tap and die set.
I know that I bought one of these from AutoZone for less than $20.
These are vital to all of your projects! After you remove any bolts
anywhere on your engine (or many other places on your car that are
exposed to dirt and/or corrosion), you'll want to chase the old
threads with the approprite sized tap, and clean any gunk out.
Otherwise, you run the risk of improper torquing, leaking seals due to
loose bolts, and possibly even broken bolts. Which isn't something you
especially want in an engine block or head (trust me on that one).

4. Get a shop vac.
Another item you can purchase for less than $20 @ Home Depot or Lowes.
You don't need anything massive, just a good wet/dry vacuum to clean
your gunk out from the top of the engine, as well as any spilled coolant.

5. Seal all intake ports, and coolant passages with shop rags while
working on the car.
You WILL have lots of dirt on top of your engine, you may even have to
pry off old rubber O-rings (or even silicone gasket seal as I found
some half-wit had used on my engine at some time in the past). You
don't want any of this inside your motor.

6. Clean up any spilled antifreeze, as it is toxic to animals.
They say antifreeze tastes sweet to animals. Now while I haven't
swallowed it per se, I have tasted some once to find out, and can tell
you that it has a pungent-sweet taste somewhat like rotten fruit
(which animals love to eat so they can let it fermint in their
stomachs, and eventually get drunk). Clean it up, and keep everyone
safe. And remember that if you're connected to a regular sewer system
(NOT a septic system), you can safely dispose of it down the toilet.


Just remember: It's not so much of a difficult job, as it is a
intimidating one.

-Robert
vin 6585"X"



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright@...> wrote:
>
> So, I've had a very small coolant leak for awhile. Couldn't pinpoint
> where it was coming from. Today, while replacing my alternator belt, I
> got a slight glimpse into the valley of death via my Surefire
> taclight. Looks to be filled with coolant. Doh!!
> 
> I'm guessing it's the hose(s) under there. I actually have new ones
> waiting for this exact job. Now I need to get to it.
> 
> Is there anything I should know before venturing in? Any seals I'm
> going to break that I'll have to replace? Anything else I should do or
> replace while I'm in there? I was ready to start unbolting things
> tonight, but I'd rather not have the car disassembled for weeks while
> I wait for parts I didn't know I might need. It's perfectly drivable
> now (just have to top off the coolant every 3 weeks or so).
> 
> -Ryan
>






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/