[DML] Re: New Tech Tip {Locking Module}

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The time difference in interupting a circuit between a circuit breaker
and a fuse can be large. A circuit breaker can also take a much bigger
overload for short periods of time than an ordianary fuse. A fuse is a
very fast-acting device and cannot tolerate much, if any overload. A
manualy resettable 10 amp circuit breaker would probably be the "best"
solution but IMHO a fuse is easily obtainable localy and is
inexpensive. I like to go with the least expensive and easiest to do
kind of fixes. That way more people are likely to actually DO them! A
fuse can be bought just about anywhere for less than $1 and it takes
almost no skill to install. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@...> wrote:
>
> Dave, 
> Good advice. I have been putting a 15 breaker in my relay kit for at
least
> the last year, maybe 2years. 
> I have also used a 10 amp and again it may blow every now and then. It
> really is the best to use, but folks don't want the nuisance of
changing it,
> that's why I use a 15 amp.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto
>      
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of
> David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 2:48 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] New Tech Tip {Locking Module}
> 
> [To the Moderator. You might consider putting this up over at
> dmcnews.com. This is a useful addition to Dave Stagard's tip on
> rewinding the solenoids.]
> 
> 
> 
> Up till now there is no difinitive test for burnt door lock solenoids.
> Unless they were very badly shorted or open you just can't tell with
> an ohmmeter. The only way to really know was to tear it open and pull
> the windings out. By that point you are rewinding or replacing the
> solenoids, good OR bad.
> Get your hands on several of the blade-style fuses. You will need at
> least one of each, 10, 15, and 20 amp. You really should keep an
> assortment in a little tin by the fuse block any for emergencies. Not
> your's of course, someone else's.
>  Remove the big red wire going from the locking module to the circuit
> breaker. Make up a short (6 inches) jumper with a female spade
> connector on both ends and connect it to the circuit breaker where the
> big red wire was attached. Now connect the free end of the jumper to a
> 20 amp fuse and put the big red wire on the other connection of the
> fuse. Try the door locks. Cycle several times quickly. If the 20 a
> fuse doesn't blow try the 15 a. It should not blow either. In fact you
> can use the 10 Amp fuse but after 2-3 cycles it will blow. The 15 Amp
> should hold and I would leave it in there as a safety. That circuit
> breaker never seems to pop under any condition anyway.
>  This is not meant to be done if you have a Lockzilla. 
> If you cannot cycle the door locks on the 15 amp fuse then you can
> figure one or both (they usually fail in pairs) of the solenoids is
> cooked. 
> I tested this on a car that I had rewound both solenoids so I knew
> they were both good. This test does NOT test the wiper switches or the
> door adjustments. Easy to tell if they are working correctly,
> disconnect the big red wire and listen to the locking module for the
> clicks.
> With the 15 amp fuse left in you could use the origional locking
> module without fear of getting locked in and burning up your solenoids
> again. The fuse should blow if the locking module relays should get
> stuck. If you choose to upgrade to a better locking module at least
> you know the condition of the solenoids. 
> IF THE 15 AMP FUSE BLOWS, DISCONNECT THE BIG RED WIRE. DO NOT USE THE
> LOCKING MODULE TO LOCK AND UNLOCK THE DOORS.
>  You can use the module to light the "lock doors" light as a reminder.
> 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>










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