[DML] Re: Not passing emissions

["seanhagan" <seanhagan@xxxxxxxxx>]

In speaking to Matt, the Oil in the area I mentioned is normal... 
nevermind my last post...

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> 
wrote:
>
> See how much play there is in the "quadrant link". That is the rod
> that connects the throttle spool to the throttle arm. Too much play
> and the engine doesn't return to idle reliably. It has a left-hand
> ri8ght-hand thread for fine adjustment like a turnbuckle. If it is
> very worn you will have to replace it. You might have to lubricate 
the
> throttle cable as per the recall and the throttle spool may also 
need
> to be disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled. Be 
careful
> touching those little screws on the throttle arm. You can mess up 
the
> switch if you hit it too hard with the screw.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans@> wrote:
> >
> > So far I passed all of that,
> >      However, I have a high idle situation that I didn't think 
was
> > relevant and now, well, I am grasping at straws.  If I push the 
switch
> > with a screw driver it will return to below 800, but when I let 
off it
> > rises to about 1150.  I've tried adjusting the screw on the arm
> > attached by a shaft to the throttle spool that pushes that 
switch but
> > it just does not see to go far enough to actuate the switch.  
There is
> > a small amount of play on that arm, too.  Could the switch be 
bad and
> > too hard for the screw to push?  Is something out of adjustment?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Matt
> > VIN 16816 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@> 
wrote:
> > >
> > > Make sure the timing is set right, and the vacuum advance is 
hooked up
> > > correctly and working. On the Island setup there is no 
mechanical
> > > advance. Check for vacuum leaks. You may have to adjust the 
mixture
> > > but do not do it to compensate for vacuum leaks. They have to 
be fixed
> > > first. Pull the output pipes from the turbos to the intake 
manifold
> > > and if the insides are oily you have to have the leaky turbo 
rebuilt.
> > > You may need to replace the silicone hoses and clamps on the 
Island
> > > turbo plumbing. They MUST not leak. Check the control hoses 
too. Any
> > > leaks will allow you to overboost. Pull the oil fill and you 
should
> > > not see any pressure coming out. You can hold a piece of paper 
over
> > > the opening to determine if air is coming out of the 
crankcase. You
> > > should be running synthetic oil on a turbo car.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > OK,
> > > >      This is frustrating.  Two years ago I had to do a full
> tune-up to
> > > > pass emissions.  This year, same thing.  However, even after 
the
> > > > tuneup, my CO is still too high.  NOx and HC's are really 
low so I
> > > > know the O2 sensor and cats are doing their job.  However, I 
am at a
> > > > loss here.  I did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.  Gapped them 
to .025
> > > > since the manual said .024-.028 IIRC.  Car runs great and 
has power
> > > > just like before.  It is an Island Twin Turbo.  So, any 
hints?  I'm
> > > > running about 25g/mile CO and the limit is 20.  When I got it
> from Rob
> > > > it tested at 11 g/mile, and then after the first tune-up it 
was also
> > > > 11 g/mile.  What am I missing?  I cleaned my K&N air filter 
last
> > > > month.  I haven't changed my fuel filter in probably 4 years,
> but how
> > > > could that affect emissions?
> > > > 
> > > > What am I missing?
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Matt
> > > > The Arizona DeLorean Club
> > > > www.az-d.org
> > > >
> > >
> >
>








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